\ 


6 . /o  . /$■ 


£ W\t  Ifcwtogiaf  j? 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


Purchased  by  the  Hamill  Missionary  Fund. 


7.  CSS 


Section  * 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/thirtyyearsinman00chri_0 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 

1883-1913 


■ 


A MOUKDEN  CITY  GATE 
Over  each  of  the  eight  great  gateways  was  a tower. 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  THE 

MANCHU  CAPITAL 

IN  AND  AROUND  MOUKDEN 
IN  PEACE  AND  WAR:  BEING 
THE  RECOLLECTIONS  OF 
DUGALD  CHRISTIE,  C.M.G. 

F.R.C.S.,  F.R.C.P.EDIN. 


EDITED  BY  HIS  WIFE 


NEW  YORK 

McBride,  nast  & company 

1914 


‘ What  do  we  ask  of  life,  but  leave  to  serve  ? . . . 
I am  a road-mender,  I serve  the  footsteps 

of  my  fellows.”  Michael  Fairless. 


TO  OUR  CHILDREN 

WHO  HAVE  SHARED  SO  MANY  OF  OUR  JOYS 
AND  VICISSITUDES 


_ 


CONTENTS 


i 

Is  it  Worth  While  ? 

PAGE 

Introductory  . . . . . . . . 1 

II 

Uphill  Work 

1883-1887 — Beginnings  of  Medical  Mission  work  in  Mouk- 
den — Difficulties — Opposition — Evil  rumours — Estab- 
lishment of  hospital — First  operations  ...  4 

III 

Moukden  : City  and  People 

The  Manchus — The  people  of  Manchuria — Country  and 
products — Moukden — North  Tomb — Roman  Catholic 
Mission — Protestant  Missions  . . . . .12 

IV 

Bridging  the  Gulp 

Importance  of  Chinese  Rules  of  Propriety — Politeness — 
Self-control — Separation  of  sexes — Houses — Dress — Eti- 
quette— Officials — Unintentional  offence  . . .21 


V 

Medical  Practice  among  the  Chinese 

Principles  of  Chinese  medicine — Ancient  knowledge  of 
surgery — Modern  ignorance — Injurious  methods — Useful 
methods  — Superstitions  — Devil-possession  — Trouble- 
some patients  . . . . . . . .31 

vii 


viii  THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 

VI 

Climatic  Conditions,  Disease,  and  Flood 

PAGE 

Climate — Homes  of  the  people — Sanitary  conditions — 
Tuberculosis — Eye  disease — Epidemics — Flood  in  1888 
— Malaria  ........  43 

VII 

East  and  West  : Mistaken  Judgments 

Essential  similarity  of  Chinese  to  other  peoples — Accused 
of  callousness  and  ingratitude — Liberality  and  hospi- 
tality — Trustworthiness  — “ Squeezing  ” — Nervous 
temperament — Fatalism — Suicides — Revenge  — Brute 
force  v.  “ Reason  ” — Lack  of  religious  devotion  . . 52 

VIII 

Far  from  the  Madding  Crowd 

Accessibility  of  Manchuria  — Former  remoteness  — Old 
methods  of  travel : cart,  boat — Scenery — A journey 

among  the  mountains — A Polish  visitor — Mrs.  Bird 
Bishop — The  first  Russians  .....  64 

IX 

Progress,  1883-1894 

Responsiveness  of  Manchuria  to  Christianity — Mixed  popu- 
lation, open  to  impressions — Policy  in  mission  work  : 
the  Church  Chinese,  not  foreign — Medical  Missions — 
Itinerating — Dispensary — Hospital — Training  assistants  74 

X 

Side-lights  on  the  Beginnings  of  a War.  1894 

Chinese  ignorance  of  foreign  countries  and  events — Dis- 
patch of  soldiers  from  Manchuria  to  fight  Japanese — 
Lawlessness  of  Manchu  soldiery — Murder  of  a missionary 
— Official  friendliness  ......  83 

XI 

Grim  Reality  : The  Chino- Japanese  War 

Bad  news  from  the  front — Quarrels  among  Chinese  Generals 
— Battle  of  Ping-yang  and  death  of  General  Tso — 
Anxieties  in  Moukden — Departure  of  missionaries — 
Japanese  advance  . . . . . . .91 


CONTENTS 


IX 


XII 


Among  the  Wounded 

Red  Cross  work  in  Newchwang — Battles  in  vicinity — 
Japanese  occupation — Attitude  of  Chinese — Peace — Re- 
turn to  Moukden — Government  recognition  of  Red  Cross 


PAGE 

99 


XIII 

A Strange  Aftermath  of  War 

Awakening  of  Manchuria — Desire  for  Western  knowledge — 
Apathy  of  officials — Crowds  inquiring  into  Christianity 
— Mixed  motives — Rules  of  admission — Rapid  increase 
of  membership  and  self-support — Training  of  evangelists 
and  pastors  ........  109 


XIV 

The  Story  of  Blind  Chang  of  the  Valley  of  Peace 

In  Moukden  Hospital — Witnessing  at  his  own  home — 
Baptism — The  blind  reading — The  wandering  evangelist 
— The  martyr  . . . . . . .116 


XV 

Misdirected  Patriotism 

Foreign  aggression  in  China — The  Reform  Movement — 

Coup  d'etat  of  1898 — Rise  of  “ Boxers  ” — Blindness  to 
the  danger — Peaceful  condition  of  Manchuria — Friendli- 
ness of  people  and  officials  . . . . .123 


XVI 

The  Boxer  Madness,  1900 

Causes  of  initial  success  of  Boxers  : anti-foreign  feeling, 
superstition,  Government  support — Change  of  attitude 
of  Moukden  Government — Imperial  Edict — Departure 
of  missionaries — Burning  of  Mission  buildings — Reign  of 
Terror — Martyrdoms — Recantations — Story  of  Pastor 
Liu — Hospital  assistants — Boxers  put  down  by  Govern- 
ment . . . . . . . . .133 


XVII 

Paying  the  Price 

Russian  occupation — Flight  of  Governor-General — Anarchy 
in  Moukden — Russian  entrance — Return  of  Christians — 

Tales  of  suffering — Political  outlook — Effects  of  Boxer 
movement  on  Church  . . . . . .151 


X 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


XVIII 

War  Again,  1904 

PAGE 

Russia  and  Japan — Preparedness  for  war — Japanese  ad- 
vance— Battle  of  Liaoyang — Battle  of  Sha-ho — Settling 
down  for  winter — Skirmishes — Friendliness — On  the 
Red  Cross  train  . . . . . . .164 


XIX 

In  the  Midst  of  the  Battle  of  Moukden 

The  Japanese  attack — Fighting  drawing  nearer — The 
Russian  retreat — A blinding  dust-storm — The  last  night 
— Russians  left  behind — Rain  of  bullets — Chinese  atti- 
tude— Japanese  spies  . . . . . .176 


XX 

The  Sufferings  of  the  Innocent 

Red  Ciross  and  Refugee  Aid  work — Housing  the  crowds — 
Epidemics — Chinese,  Russian,  and  Japanese  wounded, 
in  one  hospital — Unexploded  shells — Return  of  refugees 
— Change  in  attitude  of  Chinese  to  Japanese  . .184 

XXI 

Reconstruction 

H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun,  Governor-General,  1905-1907 

Reforms  in  Manchuria : abolition  of  opium,  education, 
girls’  schools,  road-making,  street-lighting,  police,  sanita- 
tion, finance — Building  and  opening  of  new  hospital  . 196 

XXII 

Spiritual  Uplift 

Growth  of  Church — Development — Aspirations — The  “ Re- 
vival ” — Sense  of  sin — Higher  ideals — Uplift  of  women 
— Education — Arts  College — Theological  training  . 207 

XXIII 

The  Principles  of  Medical  Mission  Work 

China  Centenary  Missionary  Conference — Medical  Missions 
an  essential  part  of  the  Church’s  work — Logical  conclu- 
sion : the  establishment  of  medical  colleges,  and  training 
of  Chinese  medical  missionaries  . . . .216 


CONTENTS 


xi 


XXIV 

The  Beginnings  of  Medical  Education  in  Manchuria 
H.E.  Hsu  Shih  Chang , Viceroy , 1907-1909. 

PAGE 

Progress  in  Moukden  : modern  buildings,  education,  col- 
leges, telephone,  electric  light,  tramways — Need  for 
medical  education — Hindrances — The  way  opened — 
College  site — Government  help — Need  recognized  by 
United  Missions — Appeal  for  funds — Response  . . 225 


XXV 

The  Black  Death 
H.E.  Hsi  Liang , Viceroy , 1909-1911 

Beginning  of  the  epidemic — Spread  by  rail — Plague  among 
coolies  at  Moukden  station — Death  of  Dr.  Jackson — 
Impression  on  Chinese — Viceroy’s  sympathy — memorials  234 


XXVI 

Fighting  the  Plague.  1911 

Measures  taken  in  Moukden  : inspection,  isolation,  placards 
— Difficulties  — New  Year  calls  — Snow  — Villages  — 
Tragedies — Winning  the  battle — International  Plague 
Conference  ........  246 


XXVII 

Moukden  and  the  Revolution 
H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun , Viceroy , 1911-1912 

Causes  of  revolution — Moukden  Committee  for  Preservation 

of  Peace — Plots — The  new  Republic — The  Red  Cross  . 258 


XXVIII 

The  Moukden  Medical  College 

Threatened  by  fire — Applicants  for  entrance — Examination 
under  difficulties — Teaching  begun — Prospects  for  our 
graduates  ........  270 


Xll 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


XXIX 

After  the  Revolution 
H.E.  Chang  Hsi  Lan,  Governor , 1912 

PAOB 

Manchuria’s  hopes  and  fears — Army  Medical  Service — 
Changed  attitude  to  Christianity — Student  movement 
and  Dr.  Mott — Day  of  prayer  . . . . .278 

XXX 

Looking  Forward 

Stability  of  China — Dangers  of  changes — Hopes  for  future  288 


Summary  of  Events  .......  293 

Index  .........  297 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


A Moukden  City  Gate  ....  Frontispiece 
“ Over  each  of  the  eight  great  gateways  was  a tower.” 

Moukden  Hospital  Out-patient  Department,  and 

College,  1913  . . . . facing  pagb  6 

“ A Slow  Placid  Stream,  almost  a Lake  ” . . 8 

The  Small  River  Bank  in  Summer  . . . .10 

“ Pleasure-seekers  in  the  tea-booths  gaze  on  the  lotus.” 

“ Broad  Streets  Lead  from  Gate  to  Gate  ” . . 16 

At  the  North  Tomb  .......  18 

“ An  archway  of  fretted  marble,  behind  which  the  main 
gate  is  barred  against  all.” 

At  the  North  Tomb  .......  20 

“ A broad  paved  way  with  large  stone  animals  on  either 
side.” 

Fishing  on  the  Small  River  .....  46 

Moukden  Mission  Church  . . . . . .76 

“ It  was  built  in  purely  Chinese  style.” 

Manchu  Soldiers  . . . . . . .86 

“ With  large  round  target  on  chest  and  back.” 

Entrance  to  Moukden  Hospital  before  Boxer  Time  136 

Refugees  from  Ruined  Villages  . . . .186 

“ Where  were  such  crowds  to  be  housed  ? ” 

Red  Cross  Work,  1905 : The  Sufferings  of  the 

Innocent  ........  188 

H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun,  Viceroy  . . . . .196 

“ One  of  the  ablest  men  available — a notable  financier — 
a man  of  the  future.” 


XIV 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


FACING  PAGE 

Corridor  of  the  Hospital  : Wards  Opening  on  Either 


Side  .........  204 

H.E.  Hsu  Shih  Chang,  Viceroy  .....  226 

“ He  maintained  the  dignity  of  the  Chinese  Government.” 

A Ward  in  the  Moukden  Hospital  . . . .230 

H.E.  Hsi  Liang,  Viceroy  ......  236 

“ He  had  the  heart  of  a father  to  those  whom  he  ruled.” 

Dr.  Arthur  Jackson  . . . . . . .238 

Dr.  Jackson’s  Grave  .......  244 

Ready  for  Plague  Work  ......  250 

General  Chang  Tso  Lin  ......  264 

“ He  was  watching  events  with  an  alert  army.” 

The  Moukden  Medical  College.  ....  272 

Dr.  Wang  .........  282 


“ The  influence  of  a man  like  Dr.  Wang  can  hardly  be 
overestimated.  ’ ’ 

Map  of  Manchuria  . . . . . . At  the  end 

Plan  of  Moukden  . . . . . . At  the  end 


This  is  not  a History,  still  less  is  it  an  Autobiography.  It 
does  not  attempt  to  give  a complete  account  of  Manchuria, 
nor  even  of  Moukden,  nor  to  depict  minutely  its  people  and 
their  customs.  There  are  important  missionary  develop- 
ments which  are  not  alluded  to,  or  only  lightly  touched  upon. 
Books  on  Manchuria,  and  on  its  wars,  and  on  its  Missions 
have  already  been  written.  This  only  attempts  to  deal  with 
personal  impressions,  and  to  give  a picture  of  life  amid  the 
Changeless  East  of  the  olden  days,  and  amid  the  rapid  march 
of  events  which  have  brought  us  to  the  Changed  East  of 
to-day. 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


i 


IS  IT  WORTH  WHILE  ? 


“ Oh,  ye  that  might  be  clothed  with  all  things  pleasant. 

Ye  are  foolish  that  put  off  the  fair  soft  present.” 

William  Black. 

“ A lang  dreich  road,  ye  had  better  let  it  be.” 

Scottish  Song. 

OLD  November,  the  wind  whistling  over  the  dreary 


Manchurian  plain  of  dull,  brown,  hard  earth,  with 
not  a blade  of  grass,  leafless  brown  trees,  earth -coloured 
houses  with  low  earth-coloured  roofs,  no  hills,  no  colour, 
all  a dead  level  of  monotony  ; only  the  brilliant  blue 
arch  overhead  and  the  clear  dazzling  sunshine  mocking 
the  dullness  and  chill  dreariness — a complete  contrast 
to  the  good  old  homeland  with  its  changeful  cloudy  skies, 
and  ever- varying  hues  of  mountain,  moor,  and  lake, 
fresh  green  grass  and  purple  heather.  And  instead  of 
friends,  comrades,  fellow-countrymen,  with  aims  and 
ideals  like  our  own,  are  thousands  and  millions  of  these 
inscrutable  Chinese,  from  Newchwang  on  the  threshold 
to  the  far  interior,  hostile,  indifferent,  or  at  best  curious, 
all  busy  with  their  own  daily  toil,  with  neither  thought 
nor  desire  beyond  it. 

On  coming  out  to  Manchuria  in  1882,  as  a medical 
missionary  of  the  United  Presbyterian  (now  United  Free) 


0 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Church  of  Scotland,  I was  faced  with  remonstrances  and 
obstacles  which  were  perhaps  commoner  then  than  now. 

“ Why  go  to  China  ? ” said  one  of  my  professors. 
“You  have  good  prospects  before  you  at  home.” 

“ Missions  are  a failure,”  seemed  to  be  the  verdict  of 
Shanghai.  “ To  join  them  is  to  throw  away  your  life.” 

“ Why  go  up-country  ? ” was  the  question  at  New- 
chwang.  “ Settle  here  and  you  can  easily  make  a good 
income,  and  do  as  much  for  the  Chinese  as  you  like 
at  the  same  time.” 

“You  are  attempting  the  impossible,”  was  the  common 
opinion.  “ The  Chinese  do  not  want  you.  Their  own 
religions  suit  them  quite  well,  and  they  are  content  with 
what  medicines  they  have.” 

“I’ll  give  you  one  word  of  advice,  young  man,”  said 
one  old  doctor  who  had  been  years  in  China.  “ Never 
trust  a Chinaman  with  anything,  not  even  a single  pill ! ” 
One  could  not  help  asking  oneself  : Is  it  really  quixotic 
as  they  say  ? What  can  a handful  of  foreigners  do  among 
these  millions  ? — To  make  known  among  the  sufferers 
that  Someone  cares,  to  share  in  lighting  in  Manchuria 
the  inextinguishable  Torch  of  Truth,  to  help  to  set  in 
motion  the  mighty  powers  of  the  Coming  Age — this  is  the 
Vision.  Is  it  worth  while  to  try  ? 

Thirty  years  have  gone  by,  and  what  is  their  record  ? 
Hostility  and  persecutions,  our  houses  and  all  our  worldly 
goods  burned,  wars  and  deadly  plague,  tragic  death  among 
our  ranks,  partings  with  children  sent  away  to  the  home- 
land— they  have  not  been  smooth  years,  but  it  has  been 
worth  while. 

We  look  back  on  almost  incredible  changes,  and  all 
who  have  shared  in  them  feel  that  it  has  been  a great 
thing  to  take  part  in  the  Awakening  of  a Nation,  the 
Regeneration  of  a great  People.  Hostility  to  foreigners  is 
at  an  end.  In  all  public  emergencies,  plague,  war,  famine, 
it  is  the  missionaries,  and  of  necessity  specially  the 


IS  IT  WORTH  WHILE? 


3 


medical  missionaries,  that  are  looked  to  for  advice  and 
help.  We  count  among  our  friends  one  Viceroy  after 
another,  and  all  the  high  officials  ; and  those  who  travel 
in  Manchuria  to-day  bear  witness  to  the  remarkable 
friendliness  of  the  country  people  everywhere. 

The  Torch  of  Truth  is  burning  brightly  all  over  the  land. 
Christianity  is  regarded  with  a kindly  eye  and  respected 
by  high  and  low.  Christian  schools  and  colleges  are  in 
the  van  in  the  march  of  education.  The  Church  of  Christ 
in  Manchuria  numbers  its  flock  by  tens  of  thousands. 

In  Moukden,  not  to  mention  other  places,  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  sufferers  have  been  treated,  and  the  hospital 
is  known  far  and  near.  From  the  Christian  Medical 
College,  largely  supported  by  Government,  will  soon 
issue  a stream  of  Chinese  medical  men  to  do  their  part 
in  serving  God  and  their  country. 

The  Christian  Ideal  of  Service  has  made  its  appeal,  and 
the  popular  mind  is  increasingly  responding  to  it,  and 
recognizing  it  as  the  Ideal  towards  which  China  too  must 
strive.  The  Government’s  request  for  a Day  of  Christian 
Prayer  met  with  ready  response  in  Manchuria,  and  drew 
officials  and  people  together  to  our  churches  to  express 
their  sense  of  their  country’s  need  of  help  and  guidance 
from  the  Great  God  over  all. 


II 

UPHILL  WORK 

“ Does  the  road  wind  uphill  all  the  way  ? ” 

Christina  Rossetti. 

“ The  best  is  yet  to  be.” 

Robert  Browning. 

IN  the  spring  of  1883  a small  handful  of  foreigners 
settled  down  to  live  in  the  city  of  Moukden,  the 
capital  of  Manchuria,  and  when  it  became  known  that 
one  was  a doctor,  there  was  much  excitement.  Premises 
being  difficult  to  get,  a small  dispensary  was  fitted  up  in 
our  own  compound,  and  there  I began  to  see  patients, 
though  I had  been  but  a few  months  in  the  country  and 
knew  little  of  the  language.  At  first  the  medical  work 
done  was  small.  Crowds  came,  each  man  professing  to 
have  an  ailment,  and  receiving  appropriate  medicine, 
but  it  is  questionable  how  much  of  that  medicine  was 
ever  used,  even  when  the  disease  was  genuine.  The  real 
object  of  many  was  merely  to  see  the  foreigner.  This 
they  were  allowed  to  do  without  let  or  hindrance,  the 
unused  medicine  had  its  use,  gradually  the  excitement 
died  down,  the  numbers  diminished,  and  real  work  began. 

For  months,  indeed  years,  it  was  an  uphill  fight.  The 
patients  were  as  much  taken  up  with  the  strange  foreigner 
as  with  their  own  ailments.  The  language  was  difficult. 
Having  no  trained  assistant,  I had  at  first  to  make  up 
my  own  prescriptions,  and  administer  chloroform  and 
operate  single-handed.  The  waiting-room  was  very 
small,  consulting-room  and  dispensary  were  in  one,  there 


4 


UPHILL  WORK 


6 


was  no  hospital  accommodation  at  all,  and  those  on 
whom  I operated  had  to  stay  in  their  own  homes  or  in 
inns. 

The  most  serious  obstacle  of  all  was  that  few  came  to 
us  except  as  a last  resource,  when  the  disease  had  become 
chronic,  when  native  doctors  had  failed,  when  there 
seemed  to  be  little  hope.  There  was,  moreover,  a great 
deal  of  suspicion  of  the  foreigner  and  his  drugs.  Some 
said  that  the  missionaries  were  but  the  vanguard  of  an 
English  host  who  were  coming  to  invade  China.  Others 
were  convinced  that  our  medicine  could  change  the 
hearts  of  those  who  used  it,  and  compel  them  to  follow 
the  foreigner  and  believe  his  teaching.  A mandarin  came 
one  day  to  have  a painful  tooth  extracted,  and  so  afraid 
was  he  of  our  drugs  that  he  would  not  even  wash  out  his 
mouth  with  the  water  provided.  The  old  story  was  set 
afloat,  that  children’s  hearts  and  eyes  were  taken  out  and 
used  for  concocting  medicine  and  for  photographic 
purposes. 

“ How  can  a box  see  to  make  pictures,”  it  was  reasoned, 
“ if  it  has  not  eyes  inside  ? ” 

In  one  quarter  of  Moukden  there  is  a large  Moham- 
medan population,  and  among  these  were  many  so-called 
doctors.  These  men  were  alarmed  lest  their  gains  might 
be  lessened,  so  they  set  themselves  to  circulate  evil  tales 
and  rumours  about  us.  As  China  was  at  war  with  France 
in  the  south,  these  were  the  more  readily  believed. 
Placards  against  us  were  posted  up  in  the  city  and  some- 
times on  our  own  gates.  Efforts  were  made  to  frighten 
us  out  of  the  country.  Our  assistants  and  servants  were 
threatened  on  the  public  streets,  foul  language  and  some- 
times mud  and  stones  were  thrown  at  us,  and  more  than 
once  the  day  was  fixed  for  the  burning  of  our  houses. 
Large  crowds  gathered  to  see  what  would  happen,  and 
there  was  much  excited  talk.  This  was  alarming  enough 
at  the  time,  though  nothing  ever  came  of  it. 

One  day,  during  the  summer  of  1884,  afiFrench  Catholic 


6 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


priest  called  on  us,  clad  in  the  usual  long  black  robe. 
He  came  in  a cart,  remained  some  time  in  our  house,  and 
then  returned  home.  The  dispensary  was  at  the  time 
full  of  patients,  so  that  many  knew  of  his  visit.  Next  day 
rumours  against  us  were  floating  about,  and  our  assistants 
were  warned  not  to  appear  on  the  streets.  Then  crowds 
gathered  outside  our  gate,  and  there  was  considerable 
excitement.  The  story  generally  believed  was  as 
follows  : 

The  Catholics  and  we  were  alike  anxious  to  obtain 
children’s  hearts  and  eyes,  and  were  willing  to  give  large 
sums  for  them.  When  the  priest  called,  he  brought  under 
his  robe  a little  child.  We  retired  into  a dark  room, 
weighed  it,  removed  the  eyes  and  heart,  and  agreed  upon 
the  price.  This  trade  in  children  had  been  carried  on 
for  some  time,  and  the  next  day  three  carts  left  the  city 
laden  with  hearts  and  eyes.  Three  points  of  the  story 
were  true.  A little  Mohammedan  child  was  lost ; a black- 
robed  priest  called  on  us  ; and  a foreigner  who  had  been 
in  Moukden  left  the  city  with  three  carts  the  day  after 
the  priest’s  visit. 

Not  long  afterwards  a mother  brought  her  young 
daughter  for  treatment ; and  while  the  woman  was 
detailing  to  me  her  symptoms  the  girl  slipped  out  of  the 
room,  frightened  at  the  sight  of  the  foreigner  of  whom 
she  had  heard  such  terrible  things.  When  the  flow  of  the 
mother’s  eloquence  subsided  she  looked  round,  but  her 
daughter  was  gone  ! In  great  agitation  she  rushed  back 
to  the  waiting-room,  but  she  was  not  there.  A general 
search  inside  and  outside  the  compound  was  in  vain. 
The  mother,  firmly  convinced  that  we  had  stolen  the  girl, 
became  violent  and  loudly  insisted  that  she  be  given  up. 
At  last  someone  suggested  that  she  might  have  run  off 
to  the  inn  where  they  were  staying.  A man  was  sent 
to  find  out,  and  there  the  little  fugitive  was,  glad  to  have 
escaped  safely  from  that  awful  foreigner.  Even  when  this 
news  was  brought,  it  was  with  difficulty  that  the  excited 


Wards  are  behind. 


UPHILL  WORK 


7 

woman  was  persuaded  to  leave  the  compound.  Of  course, 
this  was  the  last  we  saw  of  that  patient. 

These  fears  and  suspicions  gradually  died  out,  but  for 
some  years  we  were  occasionally  reminded  that  the  eye 
is  a suspicious  member.  There  was  an  instance  even  as 
late  as  1892.  A little  girl  was  brought  to  us  with  a very 
unsightly  growth  on  a blind  eye.  Her  mother,  who  had 
been  in  the  hospital  before  and  had  trust  in  us,  was 
anxious  to  have  the  growrth  removed,  as  it  seriously 
injured  her  chances  of  a good  marriage.  I performed  the 
necessary  operation,  and  afterwards  presented  the  patient 
with  a glass  eye.  Both  mother  and  daughter  were  much 
pleased,  for  it  fitted  perfectly  and  greatly  improved  the 
girl’s  appearance.  A day  or  two  afterwards  the  woman 
brought  the  child  to  me  and  asked  me  to  take  back  the 
eye.  I have  no  doubt  that  her  friends  frightened  her  out 
of  keeping  a foreign  eye. 

The  chief  factor  in  dispelling  such  suspicions  has  been 
steady  quiet  medical  and  surgical  work,  done  openly,  and 
combined  with  Christian  kindness. 

It  was  not  until  we  had  been  in  Moukden  nearly  two 
years  that  we  were  able  to  open  what  we  called  “ a 
hospital,”  in  a small  rickety  building  just  behind  our 
house.  It  had  room  for  twelve  patients  and  was  crowded 
most  of  the  time.  It  is  wonderful  what  good  results  were 
obtained  in  such  an  unsatisfactory  place.  At  the  time 
of  the  heavy  summer  rains  one  wall  of  the  building  fell 
and  it  seemed  as  if  others  would  follow,  but  the  house  wTas 
successfully  propped  up  and  compelled  to  shelter  our 
sick  folk  for  some  time  longer,  though  it  was  so  miserably 
cold  in  winter  that  we  had  to  close  it  for  a couple  of 
months.  In  the  heavy  rains  of  the  following  summer 
it  collapsed  and  became  a total  wreck.  Another  tem- 
porary hospital  wras  then  rented  with  somewhat  better 
accommodation,  on  the  very  site  where  now  stands  the 
Medical  College,  and  this  sufficed  for  over  a year,  by  which 
time  our  permanent  premises  were  ready  for  use. 


8 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Among  the  earliest  patients  in  our  tumble-down 
quarters  were  the  two  first  cataract  cases  operated  on 
in  Manchuria.  One  was  a merchant  in  the  city,  wThose 
right  eye  had  been  blind  for  several  years,  and  whose 
left  eye  had  now  failed  from  the  same  cause.  There  was 
a good  deal  of  interest  shown  in  this  case  as  the  man  was 
well  known,  and  giving  sight  to  the  blind  was  unheard  of. 
Our  little  hospital  was  very  dark,  so  the  operating-table 
was  drawn  out  to  the  open  air.  A number  of  people 
gathered  round,  including  some  officials,  and  the  opera- 
tion was  performed  in  public,  amid  breathless  expectancy. 
All  went  well,  and  when  I held  up  my  fingers  and  the 
people  heard  him  count  them,  there  was  quite  a sensation. 
While  this  merchant  was  still  with  us,  a blind  man  was 
led  in  by  his  boy,  whom  he  had  never  seen.  He  was  a 
village  school  teacher,  but  for  years  had  been  sightless, 
idle,  and  poor.  A few  days  later  the  table  was  again  placed 
in  the  sunshine,  and  a still  larger  crowd  gathered,  for  the 
fame  of  the  first  cure  had  spread.  When  the  man  realized 
that  he  could  see,  we  could  hardly  hold  him  down  on  the 
table,  until  I called  forward  his  son  and  he  gazed  on  his 
face  for  the  first  time  long  and  silently. 

Many  other  operations  were  performed,  and  the  fame 
of  foreign  surgery  soon  spread  far  and  wide.  A merchant 
came  to  us  who  had  suffered  since  childhood  from  a pain- 
ful disease.  For  two  years  he  had  not  had  a night’s  rest, 
sleeping  only  by  snatches.  He  was  thirty-eight  years  of 
age,  but  the  constant  pain  was  ageing  him  before  his 
time.  He  had  consulted  me  a year  previously,  but  when 
I explained  to  him  the  nature  of  the  operation  which 
was  the  only  means  of  saving  his  life,  he  refused  to  submit 
to  it.  He  returned  rather  to  the  native  doctors,  of  whom 
he  consulted  first  to  last  about  a hundred,  besides  several 
witches  ; but  their  treatment  only  added  to  his  suffering. 
He  was  one  of  those  who  hated  the  foreigner  and  lost  no 
opportunity  of  reviling  us.  Now  at  last,  as  his  only 
chance  for  life,  he  resolved  to  submit  to  our  treatment. 


A .SLOW,  I’LACID  STREAM,  ALMOST  A LAKE 


UPHILL  WORK 


9 


It  was  an  anxious  case  for  us.  He  was  well  known 
among  merchants,  a class  who  looked  with  disfavour 
on  our  presence  here,  and  among  whom  we  had  then  few 
patients.  The  operation,  if  successful,  might  do  much  to 
break  down  their  prejudices.  Failure,  on  the  other  hand, 
might  have  serious  consequences  in  raising  evil  reports 
against  us.  The  patient  was  weak,  emaciated,  excitable, 
and  worn  out  with  prolonged  pain  and  sleeplessness. 
The  operation,  however,  was  a complete  success,  and  he 
made  a good  recovery.  A few  weeks  later  he  sent  a 
subscription  to  the  hospital  and  put  up  a handsome  tablet 
as  an  expression  of  gratitude.  He  always  continued  a 
warm  friend  to  the  hospital,  exercising  his  influence  in  our 
favour  among  his  fellow-merchants,  and  later  on  he 
joined  the  Christian  Church. 

It  was  a long  time  before  we  had  a case  of  amputation 
of  more  than  fingers  or  toes.  This  was  not  because  dis- 
eased limbs  are  uncommon,  for  hardly  a week  passes 
without  such  cases  coming  under  our  notice.  But  many 
a Chinese  would  rather  die  than  lose  a leg  or  an  arm  ; 
when  laid  in  his  coffin  he  must  be  complete  to  enter  fitly 
on  the  dim  Unknown.  Another  reason  was  the  want  of 
confidence  in  any  doctor’s  verdict,  and  the  lingering  hope 
that,  after  all,  the  knife  might  not  be  necessary.  This 
hope  is  less  unreasonable  than  one  would  at  first  think, 
for  the  Chinese  have  wonderful  recuperative  powers. 

When  our  first  amputation  case  came,  it  seemed  almost 
a hopeless  one.  Three  months  before,  while  the  patient 
was  carting  stones,  a large  stone  had  fallen  with  great 
violence  against  his  arm,  shattering  it,  and  knocking  him 
down  so  that  the  wheel  passed  over  his  foot.  A native 
doctor  was  sent  for,  who  without  attempting  to  replace 
the  bones  applied  to  the  arm  the  universally-used  black 
plaster,  and  told  him  not  to  move  it.  After  a week  it  was 
noticed  that  the  fingers  were  getting  black,  and  on  re- 
moving the  plaster  the  whole  forearm  was  found  to  be 
dead  or  dying.  Since  then  matters  had  grown  steadily 


10 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


worse,  and  now,  after  three  months’  suffering,  all  hope 
of  recovery  was  given  up,  and  as  a last  chance  the  dying 
man  was  carried  to  the  dispensary,  covered  with  bed 
sores  and  so  weak  that  he  could  hardly  speak.  One  end 
of  the  fractured  bone  was  protruding,  and  a splint  of 
millet-stalk  which  had  supported  the  arm  had  got  em- 
bedded in  the  tissues,  so  that  the  least  movement  caused 
severe  pain  and  bleeding.  The  smell  from  the  arm  was 
overpowering  and  most  trying  to  the  patient  and  all 
near  him,  and  his  foot  too  was  very  painful.  He  and  his 
friends  were  anxious  for  amputation.  He  was  already 
dying,  and  if  we  could  not  cure  him  it  would  be  an  easy 
way  to  get  quit  of  life.  When  the  operation  was  per- 
formed, his  heart  was  so  feeble  that  for  some  time  we 
feared  he  would  not  rally.  He  came  round,  however,  and 
from  that  day  steadily  gained  strength. 

Very  slowly  the  number  increased  of  those  vailing  to 
submit  to  amputation  in  order  to  save  their  lives,  and 
even  to  this  day  many  a man  puts  off  his  consent  until  too 
late.  For  a long  time  every  amput  ated  limb  had  to  be  care- 
fully preserved  and  given  to  its  owner,  who  kept  it  against 
his  burial,  that  it  might  be  put  with  him  in  his  coffin,  and 
thus  be  restored  to  him  in  whatever  life  might  await  him. 

It  was  never  intended  that  medical  work  should 
permanently  be  carried  on  in  buildings  meant  for  small 
Chinese  dwelling-houses.  From  the  beginning,  efforts 
were  made  to  buy  a compound  suitable  for  a permanent 
hospital  and  dispensary,  but  this  was  no  easy  matter. 
There  was  great  unwillingness  to  sell  to  foreigners,  and 
our  choice  was  restricted  to  places  within  reach  of  our 
dwelling-house  and  in  suitable  situations.  Time  after 
time  we  seemed  about  to  succeed,  but  the  desired  property 
slipped  from  our  grasp.  At  last  a friendly  official,  whose 
house  was  not  a hundred  yards  to  the  east  of  ours, 
received  an  appointment  to  another  province,  and  con- 
sented to  sell  us  his  compound,  a site  which  was  in  every 
way  suitable. 


THE  SMALL  RIVEll  BANK  IN  SUMMER 
‘Pleasure-seekers  in  the  tea-booths  gaze  on  the  lotus.” 


UPHILL  WORK 


11 


In  the  south-east  of  the  city,  not  far  from  the  busy 
streets,  is  a slow  placid  stream  almost  a lake,  called  the 
Small  River.  In  summer  its  banks  are  a favourite  resort 
of  pleasure-seekers  and  holiday-makers,  who  chat  and 
sip  tea  in  the  many  tea-booths,  gaze  on  the  beautiful 
broad-leafed  delicate  pink  lotus  flowers  floating  on  the 
water,  and  breathe  in  what  is  considered  the  best  air  in 
Moukden.  On  a terrace  overlooking  this  stream  we  had 
been  fortunate  enough  to  secure  two  compounds  for 
houses,  and  from  our  point  of  view  there  was  no  more 
desirable  spot  in  Moukden  than  that  which  was  now  to 
be  our  hospital.  The  existing  buildings  we  utilized  as 
wards,  and  erected  an  entirely  new  and  commodious 
dispensary  in  front.  The  premises  were  formally  opened 
in  1887  by  a friendly  Manchu  official  of  high  rank,  the 
President  of  the  Board  of  War,  in  the  presence  of  a large 
gathering  of  the  leading  mandarins  of  the  city.  On  the 
same  day  an  enthusiastic  meeting  of  the  Christians  was 
held  in  the  waiting-room,  which  could  hold  about  150. 
The  hospital  had  accommodation  for  fifty  men  and  fifteen 
women. 

Thus  ended  the  first  stage  of  my  experiences  in  Mouk- 
den, the  initial  stage  of  fighting  down  suspicion  and 
opposition,  and  establishing  ourselves  in  the  confidence 
of  the  people. 


Ill 

MOUKDEN  : CITY  AND  PEOPLE 


“ There  is  a world  outside  the  one  you  know.” 

Rudyard  Kipling. 

“ Who  doth  ambition  shun, 

And  loves  to  live  i’  the  sun, 

Seeking  the  food  he  eats, 

And  pleased  with  what  he  gets, 

Come  hither,  come  hither,  come  hither ; 
Here  shall  he  see 
No  enemy 

But  winter  and  rough  weather.” 

Shakespeare. 


ABOUT  the  time  when  all  England  was  ringing  with 
- news  of  the  coming  Armada,  a warlike  tribe  from 
the  mountains  in  the  east  was  threatening  to  overwhelm 
what  wre  now  call  Southern  Manchuria.  Its  wide  fertile 
plain  had  been  colonized  by  Chinese  settlers,  and  was 
dotted  with  towns  and  cities.  The  corrupt  Ming  Dynasty 
of  China  was  tottering  to  its  fall,  and  all  efforts  made  to 
beat  back  the  advance  of  those  vigorous  mountaineers, 
the  Manchus,  were  but  futile.  City  after  city  fell  before 
them,  and  every  man  who  did  not  wish  to  be  beheaded 
shaved  his  head  and  cultivated  a queue.  Those  who 
thus  submitted  were  encouraged  to  enrol  themselves 
under  the  victorious  Nurhachu,  forming  the  “Chinese 
Bannermen.”  The  Manchu  tribesmen  and  their  helpers 
the  Bannermen  were  not  content  till  all  China  lay  at  their 
feet,  and  so  was  founded  that  Manchu  Dynasty  which  has 
just  passed  away,  after  bearing  rule  over  China  for  270 
years. 


12 


MOUKDEN:  CITY  AND  PEOPLE 


13 


Moukden  was  an  important  city  before  the  Manchus 
took  it  and  made  it  their  capital,  but  the  present  city 
wall  and  Imperial  Palace  only  date  from  that  time. 
When  Peking  fell  before  them,  it  in  its  turn  became  the 
capital,  and  Nurhachu’s  grandson  the  first  Manchu 
Emperor  ; but  Moukden  has  always  been  regarded  as  the 
home  of  the  Djmasty,  and  near  it  are  the  tombs  of  the 
old  warrior  Nurhachu  and  of  his  son. 

Southern  Manchuria  was  never  largely  populated  by 
Manchus.  Its  inhabitants  have  always  been  of  mixed 
race,  aboriginal  tribes  of  kindred  stock  to  the  Manchus 
originally  occupying  the  mountain  districts,  but  Chinese 
the  plains.  In  the  course  of  time  intermarriages  have 
obliterated  differences,  and  Manchu,  Bannerman,  and 
Chinaman  are  practically  indistinguishable.  The  Manchu 
language  has  completely  died  out  and  Chinese  is  uni- 
versally used,  the  dialect  spoken  being  Mandarin,  the 
same  as  at  Peking.  Only  in  the  case  of  old  families  is  the 
distinction  perpetuated,  and  the  line  proudly  traced 
back  to  the  time  of  “ the  Conqueror.”  There  are  still  a 
few  Manchu  towns  and  villages,  especially  near  the  old 
Imperial  tombs,  where  the  people  are  most  exclusive 
and  only  marry  among  themselves.  Farther  north  the 
Manchu  element  is  more  distinct,  but  in  the  greater  part 
of  South  Manchuria  it  is  very  little  in  evidence,  those 
of  the  original  Manchu  stock  having  been  for  the  most 
part  transferred  to  other  parts  of  China  to  garrison  the 
cities. 

To  the  superficial  observer  it  seems  untrue  that 
Manchuria  is  really  Chinese,  for  wherever  he  goes  he  is 
struck  with  the  curious,  picturesque,  and  typically 
Manchu  head-dress  of  the  women,  with  its  sparkling 
silver,  gilt,  or  enamelled  ornaments.  They  wear  the 
long  Manchu  robe,  too,  instead  of  the  jacket  and  skirt  of 
the  Chinese  woman,  and  they  walk  on  their  own  natural 
feet,  not  on  crippled  and  crushed  deformities.  How  can 
the  people  be  Chinese  when  the  women  are  so  evidently 


n 


14 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Manchu  ? The  truth  is  that  they  are  not  Manehu  but 
Manchurian. 

“ Where  do  you  come  from  ? ” you  ask  a man. 

“ I come  from  Shantung.” 

“ How  long  have  you  been  in  Manchuria  ? ” 

“ Two  hundred  years,”  he  answers  gravely. 

Every  year  they  are  still  crowding  in  from  Shantung, 
Chihli,  and  other  provinces.  The  woman  who  in  her 
old  home  opposed  tooth  and  nail  the  loosening  by  the 
fraction  of  an  inch  her  little  girl’s  foot-bandages,  follows 
her  husband  to  far  Manchuria  and  settles  down  among  her 
large-footed,  rosy-cheeked  sisters  of  the  north.  In  a few 
years  there  are  other  little  girls  growing  up  in  the  home, 
with  natural  feet  and  Manchu  dress,  and  in  time  they 
will  marry  and  put  up  their  hair  in  Manchu  style.  They 
have  become  Manchurian.  The  removal  of  these  people 
from  their  ancient  ancestral  homes,  and  the  gathering 
together  of  families  from  various  provinces,  result  in  a 
marked  lessening  of  their  conservatism,  prejudices,  and 
superstitions.  Local  ideas  and  customs  often  vary  so 
greatly  that  when  brought  into  close  contact  they 
neutralize  each  other.  The  consequence  is  that  the 
people  of  Manchuria  are,  speaking  generally,  more  open 
to  new  impressions  than  their  kinsmen  whom  they  left 
behind  in  the  old  rut  in  the  China  behind  the  Great  Wall. 

The  Three  Eastern  Provinces,  as  Manchuria  is  usually 
called  by  the  Chinese,  are  not  nearly  so  crowded  as  the 
rest  of  China,  their  total  population  being  estimated  at 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  millions.  It  is  increasing  rapidly 
by  reason  of  constant  immigration.  Southern  Manchuria, 
the  province  of  Fengtien , is  far  the  most  populous  and 
furthest  developed  of  the  three.  In  its  rich  alluvial 
plains  are  innumerable  villages  and  many  towns.  It  is 
astonishingly  fertile,  yielding  two  crops  in  the  year  in 
spite  of  the  long  rigorous  winter.  The  principal  produce 
is  millet , without  which  it  is  difficult  to  see  how  the  people 
of  Manchuria  could  live.  It  is  the  staple  food  of  man  and 


MOUKDEN:  CITY  AND  PEOPLE 


15 


beast,  and  is  so  productive  that  one  grain  bears  eight 
hundredfold.  The  long  stalk,  strong>but  brittle,  is  the 
household  fuel,  and  the  material  for  roofing  below  tiles 
or  lime,  fences,  partitions,  and  many  other  things.  Every 
country  house  or  cot  grows  its  own  millet,  beans,  and 
other  vegetables,  selling  the  surplus  to  provide  the  few 
other  necessaries  of  fife. 

One  feature  of  the  landscape  strikes  every  new-comer — 
the  graves.  Outside  a city  there  are  miles  of  wasted  space 
with  endless  conical  mounds,  the  public  free  cemeteries, 
and  in  whatever  direction  one  turns  there  are  smaller 
private  burying-grounds.  In  time  one  learns  to  be 
grateful  for  the  green  they  furnish.  The  vast,  cultivated, 
level  plain  would  be  more  overpoweringly  monotonous 
but  for  the  family  graveyards  dotted  here  and  there,  with 
their  fresh  green  turf  in  the  springtime,  and  their  dark 
green  pine  trees  when  all  else  is  brown. 

Manchuria  is  not  all  plain,  though  the  most  populous 
parts  are.  There  are  also  hills  with  cultivated  slopes, 
abrupt  heights  whose  wooded  crags  are  crowned  with 
Buddhist  retreats,  long  winding  valleys  with  nestling 
hamlets  and  great  rivers,  and  away  to  the  east  are  mighty 
mountains  and  the  glory  of  snow  peaks  and  virgin  forest. 

Moukden  stands  on  the  plain,  with  low  hills  in  sight 
six  or  eight  miles  to  the  south  and  east.  A river  from 
the  distant  eastern  moimtains,  the  1 Hun,  passes  a few 
miles  from  the  city,  between  it  and  the  hills.  Ancient 
Moukden  was  not  large,  the  massive  battlemented  wall 
of  Nurhachu,  40  ft.  high  and  30  ft.  wide  at  its  summit, 
enclosing  a space  of  little  over  a mile  square.  At  each 
corner  and  over  each  of  the  eight  great  gateways  was  a 
tower,  besides  the  Drum  Tower  and  Bell  Tower  in  the 
midst  of  the  city,  so  that  from  afar  it  looked  a veritable 
city  of  towers.  Much  of  this  ancient  glory  has  departed, 
as  within  recent  years  most  of  the  towers  have  been 
removed,  the  masonry  being  unsafe.  The  grey  old  wall 
still  stands,  and  tells  how  well  and  strongly  they  built  of 


16 


THIRTY  YEARS  IM  MOUKDEN 


old,  and  in  the  deep  arched  gateways  the  heavy  iron- 
studded  doors  still  shut  ponderously  when  night  comes, 
and  prevent  the  benighted  traveller  from  entering  or 
leaving  the  city. 

Broad  streets  lead  from  gate  to  gate,  with  narrow 
intersecting  cross  lanes.  In  the  centre  is  the  brilliant 
orange-roofed  Imperial  Palace,  without  inhabitant  for 
over  two  hundred  years,  but  containing  priceless  trea- 
sures of  Manchu  relics  and  antique  ware.  Within  the 
city  walls  are  all  the  yamens,  official  buildings  and 
residences,  banks,  and  principal  merchants,  but  few 
live  there  except  those  connected  with  these  establish- 
ments and  the  many  shops.  Up  to  1905  there  were  none 
but  one-story  houses  and  practically  no  attempt  at 
architecture,  and  most  of  the  buildings  are  still  of  the 
old  type. 

The  principal  business  street  was  and  is  notable  not 
by  reason  of  fine  buildings,  but  for  the  large,  gorgeous 
protruding  shop -signs,  enormous  peacocks,  dragons,  etc., 
coloured  brilliantly  and  beautifully.  At  one  end  of  this 
street  is  the  old  Drum  Tower,  where  the  war-drum  still 
stands,  beat  of  old  in  time  of  war  or  public  danger.  At 
the  other  end  is  the  Bell  Tower  with  its  ancient  bell,  tolled 
peacefully  until  recent  years  as  a curfew  and  to  mark  the 
watches  of  the  night,  and  beat  still  when  there  is  a fire 
in  the  city.  A mile  or  more  outside  the  old  wall  is  a 
second  wall  of  earth,  about  ten  miles  in  circumference, 
and  between  these  are  the  populous  suburbs. 

It  is  estimated  that  Moukden  has  a population  of  about 
two  hundred  thousand.  It  is  the  governmental,  literary, 
educational,  and  commercial  capital  of  Manchuria.  Large 
numbers  of  expectant  officials  congregate  here,  because 
here  resides  the  head  of  the  Government,  the  Tartar- 
General  or  Governor-General,  Viceroy,  or  Governor,  as  he 
has  been  variously  called. 

There  is  one  marked  difference  between  Moukden  and 
a European,  especially  a British,  city,  and  indeed  between 


BROAD  STREETS  LEAD  FROM  GATE  TO  GATE 


MOUKDEN:  CITY  AND  PEOPLE 


17 


Moukden  and  most  cities  in  China  : the  men  far  out- 
number the  women.  There  are  bankers  whose  women- 
folk are  in  far-off  Shansi ; merchants  in  hundreds  from 
Chihli,  who  go  home  to  visit  their  families  annually  ; 
craftsmen  and  labourers  innumerable,  who  have  not  yet 
sent  for  their  wives  from  the  old  home  in  another  province ; 
besides  men  from  all  over  South  Manchuria,  who  go  home 
once  or  twice  a year,  and  would  not  think  of  bringing  their 
wives  to  the  city.  All  these  live  for  the  most  part  at 
their  places  of  business.  There  are  also  many  families 
following  the  old  patriarchal  customs,  several  generations, 
sometimes  over  a hundred  souls,  forming  one  large  home. 
There  is  an  ever-increasing  number,  however,  of  small 
homes,  a man  with  his  wife  and  children  and  perhaps  an 
old  grandfather  or  mother,  just  as  in  our  own  land. 

A busy,  industrious,  contented  people  they  are, 
prosperous  and  comfortable  according  to  their  own  ideals, 
peaceable  and  law-abiding.  Policemen  were  unknown 
before  1905.  Men  lived  as  their  fathers  had  lived,  and 
asked  for  nothing  better.  The  shops  shut  at  sundown, 
and  the  unlighted  streets  were  silent  and  deserted  till 
dawn. 

A few  miles  north  of  the  city,  across  an  open  grassy 
plain,  is  a spot  which  goes  far  to  atone  for  the  monotony 
and  dullness  of  the  country  round  Moukden — the  tomb 
of  Nurhachu’s  son,  deep  buried  among  trees.  The  outer 
circle  is  genuine  wild- wood,  with  straggling  paths  seeming 
to  lead  nowhere,  among  wild  flowers,  dense  thickets,  and 
open  glades.  One  could  lose  oneself  for  a June  afternoon 
amid  the  startling  beauty  of  white  tree -blossom  or 
trailing  clematis  against  the  vivid  young  green  of  the 
oaks  and  birches,  while  through  the  green  and  the  white 
the  blue  gleams  bluer,  and  the  sun  strikes  sudden  brilliant 
patches  into  the  dark  shadows.  Deep  among  the  trees 
the  birds  twitter  and  sing  as  nowhere  else  near  Moukden, 
and  overhead  in  the  intense  radiance  hover  and  balance 
the  keen-eyed  hawks.  Through  the  trees  glistens  a vivid 


18 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


red  wall  enclosing  the  tomb,  with  glimpses  of  yellow 
tiled  roofs  within.  South  of  this  rectangular  enclosure 
stands  solitary  an  archway  of  fretted  white  marble, 
behind  which  the  main  gate  is  barred  against  all.  It  is 
only  opened  when  the  official  representative  of  the 
Emperor  sacrifices  at  the  shrine  of  this  ancestor  of  the 
dynasty. 

For  many  years  the  side  gates  too  were  closely  barred, 
and  none  might  see  within  the  sacred  precincts  except  the 
Manchu  guard  who  lived  there.  Now  to  east  and  west  the 
gates  stand  open,  with  an  arching  avenue  of  pines  from  one 
to  the  other.  The  pine  trees  inside  the  enclosure  are 
arranged  in  such  perfect  symmetry  that  in  whatever 
direction  one  looks  it  is  down  a long  straight  avenue. 
The  undergrowth  is  cut,  and  the  contrast  is  striking 
from  the  wild  luxuriance  and  colour  of  nature  outside, 
to  this  cool,  solemn,  dark-treed  symmetry. 

From  the  closed  south  gate  there  leads  a broad  paved 
way,  with  large  stone  animals  on  either  side,  to  an  inner 
enclosure,  whose  gate  is  only  opened  to  bearers  of  a pass, 
or  to  those  known  to  the  wardens  of  the  tomb.  Inside 
is  a silent  paved  courtyard,  guarded  by  high  towers  and 
a broad  battlemented  wall,  and  in  the  innermost  part  of 
all  a great  round  grassy  mound,  the  grave  itself,  with  a 
tree  growing  on  the  top.  Behind  all  this,  keeping  away 
the  evil  influences  from  the  north,  is  a long  artificial  hill 
overgrown  with  trees  and  creepers,  from  which  can  be 
viewed  the  whole  enclosure  with  its  enfolding  woods, 
and  the  walls  and  towers  of  the  city  of  Moukden  away 
across  the  plain. 

The  first  foreigners  to  settle  in  Moukden,  or  indeed  in 
any  part  of  Manchuria,  were  French  Roman  Catholic 
priests.  This  was  in  1838,  and  by  1882  they  had  a fine 
cathedral,  schools,  orphanages,  a priests’  seminary,  and  a 
nunnery,  besides  dwelling-houses  for  bishop  and  priests, 
all  in  one  large  compound  in  the  south  suburb.  The 
general  policy  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission  seems  to 


AT  THE  NORTH  TOMR 

' An  archway  of  fretted  marble,  behind  which  the  main  gate  is  barred  against  all.’ 


MOUKDEN:  CITY  AND  PEOPLE 


19 


have  been  all  along  to  keep  their  converts  separate  from 
other  people.  There  are,  dotted  throughout  the  country, 
distinctively  Roman  Catholic  villages  with  many  Chris- 
tians of  the  fifth  and  sixth  generations.  They  are  a well- 
behaved,  clean,  industrious  part  of  the  community. 
Their  children  are  instructed  closely  and  carefully,  and 
orphans  are  constantly  received.  In  the  cities  the  priests 
do  not  seem  to  conduct  any  open  aggressive  propaganda, 
but  come  and  go  among  their  own  people,  and  live  quietly 
in  their  own  compound,  a little  world  in  itself. 

One  or  two  Protestant  missionaries  visited  Moukden 
from  1867  onwards,  but  no  serious  attempt  was  made 
to  work  there  until  1874.  At  that  time  the  anti-foreign 
feeling  among  all  classes  was  very  strong.  The  agitation 
and  bitterness  which  had  culminated  in  the  Tientsin 
massacre  of  1870  were  felt  in  Manchuria  also,  and  there 
was  hardly  a man  in  the  city  who  would  speak  a word  in 
favour  of  the  detested  “ foreign  devil.”  It  was  not  easy 
for  a missionary  to  gain  a footing,  and  yet  it  was  felt  that 
no  real  hold  could  be  taken  of  the  province  so  long  as 
only  village  work  was  done.  A Chinese  evangelist  was 
sent  first,  who  sold  books,  preached,  had  long  private 
talks  and  discussions  with  those  interested,  and  by  his 
patience  and  tact  opened  the  way  for  further  effort. 

There  the  Rev.  John  Ross,  and  Rev.  John  MacIntyre, 
of  the  United  Presbyterian  (now  United  Free)  Church  of 
Scotland,  paid  repeated  visits  from  Newchwang,  and  later 
on  Dr.  Ross  stayed  as  long  as  six  months  at  a time,  living 
in  a private  room  in  a Chinese  inn.  There  was  much 
opposition,  much  mud-throwing  both  literal  and  figurative, 
and  more  than  once  something  very  near  a riot.  But 
gradually  this  died  down,  and  out  of  the  persecution 
emerged  a small  Christian  congregation.  A preaching 
chapel  was  opened  on  one  of  the  busiest  streets,  where 
daily  public  preaching  for  outsiders  and  evening  worship 
for  the  Christians  were  held.  At  last  it  became  possible 
to  get  property  for  a missionary  dwelHng -house.  First 


20 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


one  compound  was  acquired  on  the  Small  River  bank 
in  the  east  suburb,  then  another,  until  now  there  is  quite 
a little  colony  there,  with  hospitals,  houses,  schools,  and 
Medical  College.  A church  is  not  far  off,  and  three  miles 
away,  in  the  west  suburb,  are  another  church,  an  arts 
college,  and  missionaries’  dwellings. 


‘ A broad  paved  way  with  large  stone  animals  on  either  side. 


IV 


BRIDGING  THE  GULF 


“ If  you  do  not  learn  the  rules  of  propriety,  your  character  cannot 
be  established.” 

“ The  Superior  Man  subdues  himself,  and  submits  to  these  rules  of 
propriety  ; he  neither  looks,  hears,  speaks,  nor  makes  any  movement 
contrary  to  them.” — Confucius. 


^FORTUNATELY  for  the  foreigner,  the  “ rules  of 


propriety,”  according  to  Chinese  usage,  are  often 
diametrically  opposed  to  the  customs  of  the  West.  The 
European  gentleman,  even  if  he  has  a University  educa- 
tion and  polished  manners,  seems  a mere  boor  to  the 
uninitiated  Chinaman,  and  offends  at  every  turn  against 
the  strict  etiquette  of  this  ancient  civilization,  an  etiquette 
which  in  its  main  points  is  observed  by  the  lowest  coolie. 
The  character  therefore  of  the  European  or  American  is 
“ not  established.”  The  very  appellation  “ foreigner  ” 
means  an  outsider , a man  from  a country  outside  this 
Middle  Kingdom  where  the  Golden  Mean  prevails. 

Wherever  he  goes,  the  foreigner  helps  to  confirm  this 
opinion  of  him.  He  is  travelling  in  the  interior,  it  may  be 
on  horseback,  and  he  rides  through  the  quiet  country 
hamlets  as  he  would  at  home,  at  a rapid  pace.  As  he 
passes  a group  of  men  he  calls  out : 

“ Which  is  the  way  to  X ? ” 

He  probably  gets  no  reply,  and  rides  on  thinking 
what  unmannerly  louts  these  Chinese  yokels  are. 

A rough  uneducated  countryman  is  the  next  traveller. 
He  pulls  in  his  horse  to  a slow  amble  as  he  enters  the 


21 


22 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


village, — this  is  one  of  the  “ rules  of  propriety.”  On 
reaching  the  group  of  villagers  he  dismounts, — rule 
number  two. 

“ May  I borrow  your  light  ? ” he  asks.  This  is  an 
apology  for  troubling  them, — rule  number  three.  Then 

he  too  inquires  the  way  to  X , and  receives  ready 

help  ; if  need  be  a man  will  even  accompany  him  to  point 
out  the  way.  Thereafter  these  same  yokels  not  un- 
naturally remark  to  each  other  what  unmannerly  louts 
foreigners  are,  ignorant  of  the  most  elementary  rules  of 
propriety. 

All  over  China  the  experience  has  been  general  that  in 
settling  down  in  a new  city  or  district,  the  foreigner, 
be  he  merchant  or  missionary,  meets  with  opposition, 
suspicion,  and  misunderstanding.  Of  course  it  is 
possible  to  ignore  this,  and  go  one’s  own  way  regardless 
of  what  people  are  saying  and  thinking.  But  the  secret 
dislike  and  misjudging  of  foreigners,  so  common  still  in 
many  parts  of  China,  spring  from  this  very  ignoring  of 
the  feelings  and  opinions  of  the  people.  It  would  seem 
a wiser  policy  to  study  the  causes  of  the  dislike,  to  seek 
to  remove  them,  and  to  avoid  every  possible  occasion  of 
offence. 

For  instance,  great  indignation  has  more  than  once 
been  roused,  almost  amounting  to  a riot,  by  the  careless 
use  of  paper  with  Chinese  characters  on  it.  The  sacred 
characters  were  being  degraded  ; when  such  paper  is  no 
longer  wanted  it  should  be  burned.  Again,  a leading 
characteristic  of  the  Superior  Man  as  depicted  in  the 
Confucian  Classics,  and  as  admired  by  all  classes  of 
Chinese,  is  self -control, — he  “ subdues  himself.”  The 
ordinary  man  never  dreams  of  putting  this  into  practice, 
but  he  expects  it  from  anyone  who  claims  to  be  a scholar 
or  a leader.  Many  a foreigner  takes  up  the  position  of 
being  greatly  superior  to  the  Chinese  around,  while  all  the 
time  these  Chinese  are  contemptuously  laughing  in  their 
sleeves  at  this  stranger  who  so  easily  loses  his  temper. 


BRIDGING  THE  GULF 


23 


To  strike  or  kick  under  any  provocation  whatever  brands 
a man  as  an  uncultured  barbarian.  Western  impatience 
too  calls  forth  contempt.  The  Superior  Man  takes  every- 
thing philosophically,  and  bears  calmly  all  delays  and 
disappointments . 

In  the  early  days,  the  freedom  of  intercourse  between 
foreigners  of  different  sexes,  especially  in  the  Treaty 
Ports,  was  a great  offence  to  the  Chinese,  and  was  the 
beginning  of  the  low  opinion  of  foreigners  so  commonly 
held.  In  Manchuria  women  were  much  less  restricted 
than  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  but  there  was  still  an 
invisible  line  which  held  society  in  two  parts  as  by  a bar  of 
iron.  To  a foreign  mind  the  things  which  might  and 
might  not  be  done  were  wholly  unreasonable.  But  then 
to  a Chinese  mind  the  foreign  rules  of  propriety  had  still 
less  reason,  indeed  they  were  both  wrong  and  ridiculous. 
It  is  then  no  easy  task  that  a foreigner  sets  himself  when 
he  decides  to  avoid  offending  Chinese  ideas.  In  its 
entirety  it  is  impossible,  but  it  is  well  worth  while  to  do 
all  one  can  to  gain  the  respect  and  friendship  of  any 
people  among  whom  one  is  going  to  live. 

When  we  settled  down  in  Moukden  our  first  need  was 
houses.  In  Manchuria,  as  in  the  greater  part  of  North 
China,  there  were  no  two-story  buildings  except  a few 
temples. 

“Gods  may  dwell  in  towers,  but  not  men,”  is  the 
saying. 

To  build  a foreign  house  in  those  days  would  have  been 
to  court  trouble  ; a two-story  house  would  have  meant  a 
riot.  So  the  compounds  were  Chinese  to  outward  seeming, 
with  massive  gateways,  and  servants5  quarters  at  the 
entrance.  The  house  in  its  garden  behind  the  inner 
wall  might  have  foreign  windows  and  doors,  foreign 
flooring  and  stoves,  but  nothing  of  that  could  be  seen 
by  the  passer-by,  or  even  by  the  visitor  to  the  outer 
yard. 

There  came  the  question  of  clothing,  for  a foreigner’s 


24 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


dress  was  the  first  thing  which  attracted  attention.  A 
man  appearing  in  public,  clad  in  a short  jacket  and  tight- 
fitting  trousers,  was  at  that  time  an  offence  to  the  Chinese 
sense  of  common  decency  ; a respectably  dressed  man 
always  wore  a long  robe.  A woman  in  a closely  fitting 
dress  was  still  worse  in  their  eyes,  the  Chinese  female  garb 
being  loose  and  flowing.  So  for  a good  many  years  loose 
robes,  long  coats,  dressing-gowns,  tea-gowns  were  affected 
by  most  of  the  foreigners  in  their  intercourse  with  Chinese. 
The  native  dress  was  not  commonly  worn  by  them — 
there  are  practical  difficulties  in  the  way  of  adopting  it 
entirely,  and  half-measures  seemed  of  little  use — but 
such  foreign  garments  were  chosen  as  would  harmonize 
with  popular  ideas  of  propriety. 

These  questions  of  housing  and  clothing  were  easily 
settled.  The  study  of  the  Chinese  laws  of  etiquette  was  a 
more  complicated  matter.  It  was  not  difficult  to  master 
enough  of  the  general  rules  and  customs  to  get  on  fairly 
well  with  the  lower  classes  of  the  people,  and  carry  on 
work  successfully  in  dispensary  and  hospital.  But  I was 
early  brought  up  against  the  question  of  intercourse  with 
officials,  where  detailed  etiquette  is  of  the  first  importance. 
One  may  so  easily  make  a mistake  which  amounts  to 
insulting  an  official  before  his  underlings,  and  which  will 
probably  cause  him  to  curse  the  unmannerliness  of  the 
foreigner,  and  effectively  prevent  any  further  intercourse 
with  him. 

When  an  official  visitor  is  announced,  gate  and  door 
must  be  opened  wide  ready  to  receive  him,  and  the  host 
should  meet  him  between  the  two.  The  position  of 
honour  is  north  before  south,  east  before  west,  so  the 
host  must  keep  to  the  west  of  the  pathway  and  house  door, 
which  always  faces  south.  He  must  not  walk  exactly 
beside  his  guest,  but  always  half  a step  behind.  When 
inside  the  room  it  is  important  to  offer  the  proper  seat, 
but  a foreign  house  being  differently  arranged  from  a 
Chinese  one,  it  is  not  always  easy  to  know  which  this  is. 


BRIDGING  THE  GULF 


25 


It  should  be  as  far  from  the  door  as  possible,  and  the 
host  must  sit  nearer  the  door,  and  to  the  west  of  his  guest 
if  he  can.  Tea  is  always  served  whatever  the  time  of  day, 
but  the  correct  moment  must  be  chosen  for  offering  it. 
On  formal  occasions  or  first  visits,  the  host  takes  the  cup 
with  both  hands  and  places  it  with  a bow  before  his 
guest,  who  rises  and  receives  it  in  both  his  hands,  saying 
something  polite.  The  host  then  invites  his  guest  to 
drink,  and  this  they  do  simultaneously,  taking  the  same 
number  of  sips,  and  replacing  their  cups  at  the  same 
moment.  It  will  easily  be  seen  how  readily  the  foreigner 
may  offend,  for  there  are  a hundred  minor  points  which 
give  opportunity  to  show  different  gradations  of  respect 
and  cordiality. 

When  a foreigner  pays  a return  call  on  an  official,  the 
occasions  for  blundering,  and  thus  rendering  himself 
ridiculous  or  offending  his  host,  are  perhaps  even  more 
numerous.  He  must  not  go  on  foot,  however  near  the 
house  may  be.  He  must  remain  in  his  cart  while  his  own 
servant  takes  in  his  card,  and  he  must  not  alight  till 
invited.  On  entering,  and  at  each  successive  gate  or 
door,  he  must  stand  aside  and  urge  his  host  to  enter  first, 
and  must  not  be  too  easily  persuaded  to  proceed.  He 
will  be  given  the  seat  of  honour,  but  must  be  unwilling  to 
take  it,  and  only  do  so  after  some  protesting.  He  must 
not  actually  sit  down  until  the  same  moment  as  his  host, 
and  if  a second  visitor  arrives  he  must  rise  at  once  and 
offer  him  his  seat.  On  a first  visit  he  must  not  stay  too 
long,  nor  yet  may  he  be  over-hurried  in  his  departure. 
There  are  many  other  everyday  rules  which  are  only 
slowly  mastered,  but  which  gradually  become  second 
nature  when  associating  with  officials. 

For  anyone  who  is  going  to  five  permanently  in  a city, 
hoping  to  make  his  presence  and  influence  felt,  it  is 
obviously  desirable  to  come  into  contact  with  all  classes 
of  the  people.  The  lower  grades  are  much  the  most 
easy  of  access,  and  it  is  possible  to  live  and  work  for 


26 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


years  in  their  midst  and  know  very  little  indeed  of  the 
officials,  the  literati , the  gentry,  or  the  influential  mer- 
chants. Many  causes  contribute  to  producing  this  gulf 
between  them  and  the  foreigner,  besides  that  prominent 
one  already  indicated — his  neglect  of  the  “ rul.es  of 
propriety.”  One  is  the  language,  for  it  takes  years  to 
become  quite  at  home  in  it,  and  few  ever  speak  it  without 
a marked  foreign  accent. 

At  the  outset,  a doctor  has  the  great  advantage  that 
he  may  have  an  opportunity  of  relieving  bodily  suffering, 
and  thus  gain  an  entrance.  The  maintenance  of  a 
friendly  footing  afterwards,  and  the  extension  of  acquaint- 
ance among  these  classes,  will  depend  largely  on  the  extent 
to  which  he  himself  cultivates  these  same  “ rules  of 
propriety.”  Our  relation  with  the  officials  was  a most 
vital  matter  thirty  years  ago,  as  the  common  people  were 
greatly  influenced  by  the  attitude  taken  up  by  them 
regarding  us  and  our  work.  We  were  fortunate  in  having 
a call  from  an  official  of  some  rank  within  a month  after 
our  arrival  in  Moukden.  He  was  suffering  from  disease 
of  the  lower  jaw,  several  of  his  teeth  had  fallen  out,  he 
could  hardly  speak,  and  extreme  pain  was  wearing  him 
out.  The  diseased  bone  was  easily  removed,  giving 
immediate  relief,  the  cure  was  perfect,  and  he  remained 
our  staunch  friend  till  his  death  a few  years  later.  From 
him  I received  hints  and  suggestions  as  to  etiquette  which 
were  invaluable.  He  was  the  means  of  introducing 
many  official  patients  from  the  Governor  of  Moukden 
downwards,  and  others  came  without  introduction.  The 
Governor  was  specially  grateful  for  a bit  of  practical  help. 
He  had  lost  two  front  teeth,  and  this  disfiguration  made 
it  awkward  for  him  to  appear  before  the  Emperor, 
and  therefore  might  hinder  official  promotion.  Know- 
ing something  of  dentistry,  I was  able  to  provide  him 
with  false  teeth,  which  meant  a good  deal  to  his 
career. 

One  of  my  most  intimate  official  friends  was  a Tao-tai 


BRIDGING  THE  GULF 


27 


named  Gao,  who  had  been  for  some  years  at  the  Chinese 
Legation  in  Paris,  and  been  through  the  siege  there  in 
1870.  He  had  also  visited  England  and  America,  and 
was  a most  enlightened  man,  thoroughly  in  sympathy 
with  Western  ideas  and  with  Christianity.  I was  early 
installed  as  his  family  physician,  and  had  constant  inter- 
course with  his  whole  household  for  many  years.  Through 
him  also  we  came  in  touch  with  other  mandarins,  and 
as  years  went  on  I had  an  extensive  circle  of  official 
acquaintances.  This  was  a great  help  to  our  work, 
giving  us  an  assured  position,  and  going  far  to  prevent 
the  riots  and  other  troubles  which  were  so  liable  to 
occur. 

It  was  not  long  before  we  began  to  have  soldiers  also 
among  our  patients.  Soon  after  our  first  hospital  was 
opened,  a small  band  of  robbers  was  creating  much 
trouble  among  some  villages  and  scattered  homesteads 
in  the  far  east.  A company  of  sixteen  soldiers  was  sent 
to  put  them  down,  but  weeks  passed  before  they  could 
even  be  found.  At  last  some  villagers  gave  information 
as  to  where  the  gang  was  lodged.  When  night  came  the 
soldiers  surrounded  the  house,  but  the  robbers  escaped 
all  but  one,  who  took  his  stand  behind  the  door.  This 
was  small,  admitting  only  one  at  a time.  A fine  young 
fellow  volunteered  to  lead  the  attack,  and  the  door  was 
soon  forced,  but  the  robber  was  well  armed  and  made  a 
desperate  resistance.  The  soldier  wounded  him  severely 
on  the  head  with  his  sword,  while  the  brigand  lodged  the 
contents  of  his  pistol  in  the  intruder’s  thigh.  Other 
soldiers  pressed  in  and  overcame  the  ruffian,  who  was 
bound,  taken  to  Moukden,  and  executed. 

A fortnight  later  a military  officer  called  on  me, 
presenting  the  card  of  the  Moukden  Tao-tai  (circuit 
judge)  and  asking  if  I would  do  His  Excellency  the 
favour  of  treating  the  wounded  soldier.  When  the  man 
was  admitted,  his  health  had  suffered  considerably  from 
the  knocking  about  he  had  sustained  in  travelling,  the  in- 


28 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


jured  leg  was  much  swollen,  and  suppuration  had  set  in. 
After  two  days’  rest,  suitable  food,  and  proper  dressing 
of  the  wound,  the  inflammation  had  somewhat  subsided, 
and  the  situation  of  the  bullet  was  detected.  The  Tao-tai 
sent  an  officer  to  witness  the  extraction,  an  operation 
which  native  doctors  could  never  attempt.  The  bullet 
was  removed  without  difficulty,  and  the  officer  took  it 
away  to  present  to  his  General,  Tso  Pao  Kuei.  The 
patient  left  us  after  a month,  able  to  walk  as  well  as 
ever. 

This  case  was  of  great  use  in  making  our  work  known 
and  disarming  suspicion,  especially  among  soldiers  and 
military  mandarins.  General  Tso,  the  Commander  of 
the  Chinese  forces  in  Manchuria,  became  our  good  friend 
and  remained  so  ever  afterwards,  being  many  a time  of 
great  help  to  us.  His  soldiers  were  constantly  sent  to  the 
dispensary  and  hospital  for  treatment,  and  when  wounded 
were  sometimes  carried  hundreds  of  miles  to  be  put  under 
our  care.  There  was  at  that  time,  and  for  a good  many 
years  later,  absolutely  no  attempt  to  provide  medical  or 
surgical  help  for  the  army.  It  depended  on  the  kind- 
heartedness  of  the  General  whether  anything  at  all  was 
done  for  the  sick  and  wounded,  but  with  the  best  heart 
in  the  world  it  was  impossible  to  provide  efficient  aid. 
General  Tso  did  all  in  his  power  in  this  direction.  Though 
a strict  disciplinarian  and  a terror  to  law-breakers,  he 
was  beloved  and  trusted  by  his  men  and  respected  by 
all  classes.  He  established  and  maintained  a Foundling 
Hospital,  kept  a soup-kitchen  open  for  the  poor  for  a 
couple  of  months  every  winter,  and,  while  remaining 
a strict  Mohammedan,  subscribed  liberally  to  our 
hospital. 

Though  we  did  our  best  from  the  first  to  promote 
friendly  feeling,  we  sometimes  unintentionally  brought 
trouble  on  ourselves.  In  the  second  year  of  our  residence 
in  Moukden,  a party  of  five  men,  including  some  visitors 
from  Newchwang,  started  on  horseback,  escorted  by  a 


BRIDGING  THE  GULF 


29 


Chinese  gentleman,  to  visit  some  points  of  interest. 
Outside  the  west  of  the  city,  near  a Lama  temple,  was  a 
large  open  space  where  cavalry  were  in  the  habit  of 
exercising.  Here  once  a year  was  held  a review  of 
Manchu  and  Mongol  horsemen,  which  our  guide  said 
was  well  worth  seeing.  These  were  not  disciplined  troops, 
but  principally  wild  Mongols  from  the  desert,  with  some 
Manchus.  They  wore  no  uniform,  each  being  dressed 
as  he  pleased,  with  sheepskin  coat  and  turban,  or  fierce- 
looking  hairy  cap.  All  were  fearless  riders,  and  many 
carried  long  spears.  Their  mounts  were  rough  little 
ponies,  full  of  spirit,  and  as  unaccustomed  as  their  riders 
to  city  crowds. 

Unfortunately,  as  we  approached,  one  of  our  horses, 
excited  with  the  shouting  and  galloping,  became  un- 
manageable and  rushed  forward  with  its  unwilling  rider 
among  the  other  horses.  Immediately  he  was  surrounded 
and  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  party  by  a noisy  crowd  of 
angry  Mongols,  who  kept  riding  closely  round  him, 
whooping  and  shouting,  and  frightening  still  more  his 
excited  pony.  The  rider,  finding  himself  jostled  nearly 
out  of  his  seat,  struck  the  nearest  horse  with  his  riding  - 
whip.  In  return  the  soldier  made  a fierce  blow  at  the 
foreigner’s  head  with  a heavy  stick.  Seeing  this,  one  of 
the  other  visitors  spurred  his  pony  straight  at  the  Mongol 
brave,  and  knocked  him  and  his  beast  into  a large  pool  of 
mud  and  water.  Meantime  on  the  outskirts  of  the  crowd 
we  had  succeeded  in  finding  some  officers,  and  were 
apologizing  and  explaining  to  them  about  the  restive 
horse.  With  their  help  we  gathered  our  little  party 
together  as  quickly  as  possible  and  rode  away,  just  in 
time  to  avoid  serious  consequences. 

In  spite  of  all  our  efforts  to  avoid  anything  which  might 
be  disliked  by  the  people,  and  in  spite  of  the  friendship 
of  many  officials,  civil  and  military,  there  was  for  long 
an  undercurrent  of  ill-will  in  many  quarters,  and  a 
readiness  to  take  offence.  Had  we  made  no  efforts  at 


30 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


conciliation,  and  had  we  had  enemies  instead  of  friends  in 
high  places,  it  is  difficult  to  say  how  that  undercurrent 
might  have  affected  us  and  how  many  years  might  have 
passed  before  our  work  in  Moukden  would  have  been 
firmly  established. 


V 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  AMONG  THE  CHINESE 

“ And  happed  to  hear  the  land’s  practitioners, 
Steeped  in  conceit  sublimed  by  ignorance, 

Prattle  fantastically  on  disease, 

Its  cause  and  cure.” 

“Epistle  of  Karshish” — R.  Browning. 


THE  beginnings  of  medicine  in  China  are  in  the  dim 
distance  of  4500  years  ago,  and  its  chief  medical 
classic  dates  from  the  third  or  fourth  century  b.c.  This 
is  a book  on  medicine  and  physical  science,  treating  of 
the  human  body,  the  two  principles  “ yin  ” and  “ }Tang,” 
the  five  elements,  the  circulation  of  the  five  elemental 
vapours  in  the  body,  diseases,  acu-puncture,  and  so  on. 
Other  books  were  added  to  this  later,  but  the  theories 
as  to  the  cause  and  cure  of  disease  have  been  stereotyped 
for  many  centuries. 

As  long  as  the  five  elements  of  which  the  body  is 
composed — metal,  wood,  water,  fire,  and  earth — are  in 
equilibrium,  health  is  enjoyed  ; when  they  are  out  of 
proportion  disease  ensues,  and  the  object  of  treatment  is 
to  bring  them  back  to  their  normal  relations.  Medicines 
are  classified  according  to  the  five  colours  and  the  five 
tastes,  corresponding  to  the  five  elements  and  the  five 
organs  of  the  body.  All  treatment  must  accord  with 
the  various  cycles  of  five,  of  which  the  following  are  a 
few  : 

Elements — 

metal  wood  water  fire  earth 


31 


32 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Colours — 


white 

green 

black 

red 

yellow 

Tastes — 

acrid 

sour 

salt 

bitter 

sweet 

Organs  of 

the  body — 

( spleen 
( stomach 

lungs 

fiver 

kidneys 

heart 

Productions  of  the  organs- 

breath 

ligaments 

bones 

blood 

muscles 

Senses — 

nose 

eyes 

ears 

tongue 

mouth 

Directions 

Wbot 

east 

north 

south 

middle 

For  instance,  if  the  heart  is  feeble  there  must  be  too 
little  fire  ; fire  is  produced  by  wood,  which  corresponds 
with  the  liver  ; therefore  to  strengthen  the  heart  the  fiver 
must  be  toned  up,  the  medicine  should  be  sour  and  of 
a greenish  hue,  and  anything  bitter  must  be  strictly 
avoided.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  lungs  are  affected, 
then  earth  is  needed  to  produce  the  lacking  metal 
element,  the  spleen  and  stomach  must  be  stimulated, 
the  medicine  should  be  yellow  and  sweet,  and  everything 
acrid  must  be  avoided.  There  are  many  other  points  too 
intricate  to  describe  in  detail. 

Disease  is  diagnosed  by  the  pulses,  of  which  there  are 
also  five  varieties.  The  left  indicates  the  condition  of  the 
heart,  fiver,  and  kidneys  ; the  right  that  of  the  lungs  and 
stomach,  and  also  of  the  “ gate  of  life.”  When  a patient 
enters  the  consulting-room  for  the  first  time,  he  does  not 
expect  to  be  asked  questions.  Silently  he  stretches  out 
one  hand  after  the  other,  and  the  doctor,  by  placing  three 
fingers  on  each  pulse  in  turn,  is  supposed  to  recognize 
the  nature  and  seat  of  the  disease.  In  the  early  days  a 
friendly  native  doctor  used  to  bring  patients  to  see  how 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  AMONG  CHINESE  33 


I would  examine  and  treat  them.  One  day  a man 
appeared  who,  on  account  of  an  abnormality,  had  no 
pulse  in  the  usual  situation.  I asked  my  Chinese  friend 
to  examine  this  case  by  his  method,  but  finding  no  pulse 
at  all  he  was  completely  nonplussed,  and  was  greatly 
interested  and  astonished  when  I explained. 

The  ancients  in  China  had  some  knowledge  of  surgery. 
There  is  evidence  that  they  knew  of  the  circulation  of 
the  blood,  that  they  dissected  the  human  frame  as  far 
back  as  600  b.c.,  and  that  they  were  using  anaesthetics 
and  performing  abdominal  operations  in  the  third 
century  a.d.  Unfortunately  this  knowledge  seems  to 
have  become  extinct.  Their  ideas  now  as  to  the  position 
and  functions  of  the  various  internal  organs  are  most  vague 
and  inaccurate,  and  modern  Chinese  doctors  own  that 
they  know  nothing  at  all  of  surgery.  They  cannot  tie  an 
artery, amputate  a finger  or  perform  the  simplest  operation. 

The  only  mode  of  treatment  in  vogue  which  might 
be  called  surgical  is  acu-puncture , practised  for  all  kinds 
of  ailments.  The  needles  are  of  nine  forms,  and  are 
frequently  used  red-hot,  and  occasionally  left  in  the  body 
for  days.  Having  no  practical  knowledge  of  anatomy,  the 
practitioners  often  pass  needles  into  large  blood-vessels 
and  important  organs,  and  immediate  death  has  some- 
times resulted.  A little  child  was  carried  to  the  dis- 
pensary presenting  a pitiable  spectacle.  The  doctor 
had  told  the  parents  that  there  was  an  excess  of  fire  in 
its  body,  to  let  out  which  he  must  use  cold  needles,  so 
he  had  pierced  the  abdomen  deeply  in  several  places. 
The  poor  little  sufferer  died  shortly  afterwards.  For 
cholera  the  needling  is  in  the  arms.  For  some  children’s 
diseases,  especially  convulsions,  the  needles  are  inserted 
under  the  nails.  For  eye  diseases  they  are  often  driven 
into  the  back  between  the  shoulders  to  a depth  of  several 
inches.  Patients  have  come  to  us  with  large  surfaces  on 
their  backs  sloughing  by  reason  of  excessive  treatment  of 
this  kind  with  instruments  none  too  clean. 


34  THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 

Another  very  injurious  method  of  treatment  is  the 
application  of  a black  resinous  plaster,  universally  used 
for  all  kinds  of  aches  and  pains,  bruises  and  swellings, 
wounds  and  sores.  A small  pimple  or  abscess  appears, 
at  once  the  plaster  is  applied  and  free  discharge  prevented. 
The  result  is  often  serious  disease.  Indeed,  in  almost 
every  case  of  bone  or  joint  disease  which  comes  to  us, 
the  condition  is  aggravated,  if  not  caused,  by  this  deadly 
plaster  ; and  yet  the  Chinese  have  unbounded  faith  in  it. 
A boy  of  nine  was  brought  in  a basket,  and  when  the 
plaster  completely  covering  one  leg  was  removed,  the  smell 
could  almost  be  heard , as  the  Chinese  say.  A large  part 
of  the  tibia  was  quite  bare  and  projecting.  His  mother 
said  that  no  medicine  had  been  applied  except  this 
plaster,  which  had  first  been  used  about  fifteen  months 
before,  when  there  was  only  a small  sore  place,  caused  by 
a fall.  He  was  now  much  emaciated,  with  weak  rapid 
pulse  and  bad  cough,  and  death  seemed  not  far  off. 
We  took  him  into  the  hospital,  treated  the  leg  rationally, 
and  after  a few  days  removed  the  diseased  bone  entirely. 
In  a month  he  was  walking  about,  rosy,  strong,  and  merry, 
and  with  great  enthusiasm  learning  to  read  and  sing 
hymns.  Such  cases  are  very  common  in  every  hospital. 

When  there  is  an  open  sore  in  any  part  of  the  body, 
the  native  doctors  often  put  in  medicine  having  caustic 
properties,  causing  much  mischief.  For  instance,  a young 
man  suffered  from  disease  of  the  cervical  glands,  a 
common  complaint  here.  An  abscess  having  formed  and 
burst,  caustic  medicine  was  put  in.  He  came  to  us  in 
great  pain,  and  I found  that  the  caustic  had  burrowed 
its  way  under  the  muscles,  setting  up  severe  inflammation 
of  the  deeper  structures.  By  cutting  down  and  removing 
the  irritating  substance,  relief  wras  given. 

Any  man  who  wishes  may  practise  medicine,  and  as 
even  the  most  famous  and  learned  doctors  know  nothing  of 
the  structure  of  joints,  patients  often  suffer  much  at  their 
hands.  A little  boy  twisted  his  leg  one  day  when  playing. 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  AMONG  CHINESE  35 


He  complained  of  pain,  but  continued  to  limp  about. 
As  there  was  no  doctor  in  the  village,  one  old  woman 
after  another  was  consulted,  but  in  spite  of  their  rubbing 
and  kneading  the  pain  continued,  so  he  was  taken  to  a 
well-known  doctor  in  Moukden.  With  great  violence  this 
man  pulled  and  twisted  the  limb  till  the  boy  was  screaming 
with  agony.  Until  this  operation  he  could  walk,  but 
now  he  could  not  even  stand,  and  the  limb  was  bent  and 
shorter  than  the  other.  Three  weeks  later  he  came  to  us. 
The  hip  was  much  swollen,  and  so  painful  that  exami- 
nation was  impossible  without  chloroform.  The  joint 
was  found  to  be  dislocated,  doubtless  as  the  result  of  the 
heroic  treatment  to  which  it  had  been  subjected.  It 
was  easily  reduced,  and  the  little  fellow  was  soon  all 
right. 

After  the  removal  of  a piece  of  bone  one  day  from  a 
severe  gunshot  wound,  to  my  surprise  a quantity  of  pure 
mercury  poured  out. 

“ That  is  the  melted  bullet ! ” said  the  patient. 

Chinese  doctors  make  no  attempt  to  extract  bullets, 
but  often  put  mercury  into  the  wound,  which  they  say 
will  jnelt  the  lead,  and  the  patient  is  easily  made  to 
believe  that  it  has  done  so. 

With  so  much  that  is  injurious,  the  Chinese  have  also 
some  harmless  and  helpful  methods  and  some  useful 
drugs.  They  use  massage  constantly,  not  certainly  in  a 
scientific  way,  but  intelligently  and  with  much  benefit. 
They  also  realize,  indeed  overestimate,  the  value  of 
counter -irritation,  and  there  is  a somewhat  peculiar 
method  in  common  use.  The  skin  is  pinched  up  and 
twisted  repeatedly  and  sharply  between  the  fingers  or 
knuckles,  or  with  two  bits  of  wood  or  copper  coins,  until 
it  becomes  livid.  Cupping  is  also  a common  method. 
People  are  constantly  seen  with  round  livid  patches  on 
the  forehead. 

“ What  is  wrong  ? ” one  asks  at  first  in  alarm.  But 
the  inevitable  surprised  answer  is  : 


36 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ I had  a headache,  that  is  all.” 

Blisters  of  many  kinds  are  also  freely  used,  and  the 
actual  cautery.  The  value  of  'perspiration  in  illness  is 
universally  appreciated,  and  without  calling  in  a doctor 
medicines  are  given  to  induce  it. 

Among  their  useful  medicines  are  such  as  rhubarb, 
gentian,  nux  vomica,  calomel,  Epsom-salt,  and  so  on. 
Little,  however,  is  understood  of  the  action  of  drugs  on 
the  system. 

Vaccination  is  of  comparatively  modern  date.  Until 
recently  a method  commonly  employed  was  to  blow  the 
lymph  up  the  nostril,  but  this  was  very  uncertain  in  its 
action,  and  now  the  foreign  practice  is  usually  followed. 

The  most  valuable  asset  for  the  healing  of  disease 
which  the  Chinese  possess  is  their  wonderful  recuperative 
power.  Wounds  heal  by  first  intention  under  conditions 
which  would  be  deadly  to  a European.  A woman  has  her 
breast  removed  for  cancer,  and  is  put  in  a low  smoky  room 
16  ft.  by  10  ft.,  along  with  her  attendant,  three  other 
patients,  and  a baby,  one  of  the  patients  having  a foul- 
smelling abscess  ; yet  she  makes  a speedy  and  perfect 
recovery.  In  our  hospitals  we  constantly  have  cases  of 
remarkable  recovery  from  wounds  and  diseases  of  bones 
and  joints,  which  in  the  West  would  certainly  prove 
fatal  without  amputation. 

The  power  of  resistance  to  nervous  shock  is  also 
noticeable.  A man  is  mending  a gun  in  a blacksmith’s 
shop,  not  knowing  that  it  is  loaded.  It  explodes,  blowing 
off  his  hand.  He  calmly  throws  a handkerchief  over  the 
stump,  and  holding  the  wrist  tightly  with  the  other  hand, 
walks  three  miles  across  the  city  to  the  hospital. 

There  are  many  strange  and  superstitious  ideas  about 
disease  and  its  causes,  which  had  their  origin  long  before 
Buddhism  or  Taoism,  and  will  doubtless  linger  in  the 
country  districts  long  after  these  religions  have  passed 
away.  Unlucky  days  are  blamed  for  many  diseases,  and 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  AMONG  CHINESE  37 


lucky  days  are  chosen  for  taking  medicine.  A hair  is 
often  twined  round  a limb  above  a sore,  “ to  keep  the 
poison  from  going  up  to  the  heart.”  A man,  explaining 
the  origin  of  his  sickness,  bowed  his  head  and  said,  evi- 
dently with  the  deepest  repentance  : 

“ I have  offended  the  Tiger-god.  I was  up  among  the 
hills  and  ate  tiger’s  flesh,  and  this  is  the  punishment.” 

A fine -looking  old  man  brought  his  daughter  to  the 
dispensary  in  the  last  stages  of  pulmonary  consumption, 
so  weak  that  she  could  hardly  stagger  from  her  sedan- 
chair  to  the  consulting -room.  When  the  nature  of  the 
disease  was  explained,  the  father  politely  but  firmly 
replied  : 

“ You  are  mistaken.  There  is  no  disease  of  the  lungs. 
I too  am  a physician  of  no  mean  reputation,  but  I am  not  a 
surgeon.  It  is  because  I have  heard  of  your  skill  with  the 
knife  that  I have  brought  my  daughter  to  you,  that  you 
may  remove  the  evil  thing  that  is  preying  on  her  fife.” 
Then  he  explained  that,  many  months  before,  a tortoise 
had  begun  to  grow  in  her  abdomen,  and  had  increased 
rapidly  till  it  was  now  the  size  of  a hand.  It  lived  on  the 
patient’s  blood,  which  it  drank  three  times  a day. 

“ See  ! ” he  said,  “ you  can  feel  its  head  moving  from 
side  to  side  under  your  hand,  just  below  the  heart.  Can 
you  not  take  it  out  ? ” 

Poor  old  father  ! the  “ tortoise  ” was  but  the  fluttering 
aorta,  whose  beat  was  easily  felt  in  the  patient’s  thin, 
emaciated  body. 

Mothers  are  often  credited  by  foreigners  with  heart- 
lessness for  throwing  out  the  bodies  of  their  little  ones 
to  be  devoured  by  the  wild  dogs,  but  there  is  a reason. 
The  untimely  death  of  a young  child  is  caused  by  the  evil 
dog-spirit,  which  can  only  be  appeased  by  the  yielding 
of  the  little  body  to  actual  dogs.  If  this  is  not  done,  the 
same  ghostly  malevolence  will  cause  the  death  of  child 
after  child  in  that  family,  so  in  love  to  the  living  the 
mother  sacrifices  the  dead. 


38 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


The  belief  in  evil  spirits  is  universal,  and  all  forms  of 
disease  are  attributed  more  or  less  to  their  agency. 
Besides  the  doctors  who  follow  the  ancient  books,  there 
are  therefore  sorcerers,  witch-doctors,  and  devil-charmers, 
who  are  consulted  even  by  men  of  rank  and  intelligence. 
Their  prescriptions  are  of  a varied  nature.  A paper  with 
mystic  characters  may  be  burned,  its  ashes  mixed  with 
water,  and  the  concoction  drunk  by  the  patient ; or  the 
characters  may  be  worn  as  a charm.  Sometimes  a cup 
of  water  is  covered  with  a cloth  and  shaken  steadily 
until  bubbles  begin  to  appear  ; then  it  must  be  drunk 
quickly  by  the  patient,  while  mysterious  words  are 
solemnly  pronounced. 

Madness,  epilepsy,  and  extreme  hysteria  are  usually 
regarded  as  being  caused  by  devil-possession.  Without 
any  inquiry  into  the  origin  of  the  condition,  most  cruel 
methods  are  resorted  to  in  order  to  drive  out  the  evil 
spirit,  such  as  forcing  the  patient  to  stand  barefoot  on 
red-hot  iron,  and  there  is  always  severe  and  merciless 
beating.  Fortunately  for  the  poor  sufferers,  life  cannot 
long  sustain  such  extreme  torture,  and  death  brings 
release.  A girl  of  seventeen  was  brought  to  me,  evidently 
a case  of  extreme  hysteria.  The  witch-doctors,  after 
trying  several  cruel  methods  without  success,  had  finally 
thrust  a red-hot  poker  down  her  throat  to  expel  the 
demon.  The  girl  died  shortly  afterwards.  The  electric 
battery  has  come  to  be  recognized  by  the  Chinese  as  the 
foreign  cure  for  devil -possession,  and  many  an  4 4 evil 
spirit  ” has  been  thus  banished. 

Medical  science  in  China  being  in  such  a chaotic  con- 
dition, and  the  methods  of  treatment  so  fantastic  and 
inconsistent,  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  patients  should 
have  great  confidence  in  their  doctors.  The  idea  of  a 
44  family  physician  ” is  unknown.  When  the  medicine 
of  one  doctor  fails  to  cure  within  a few  days,  his  prescrip- 
tion is  set  aside  as  unsuitable  or  disapproved  by  the  gods, 
and  another  man  is  called  in  without  the  first  being  even 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  AMONG  CHINESE  39 


informed.  It  is  quite  common  to  use  the  medicines  of 
several  doctors  at  once,  in  the  hope  that  if  one  does  not 
cure,  another  may.  For  this  reason,  visiting  patients  in 
their  homes  is  most  unsatisfactory. 

There  was  a well-to-do  merchant  whose  life  was  saved 
in  the  hospital  in  the  early  days,  and  who  became  an 
intelligent  Christian.  Some  years  later  he  had  a severe 
attack  of  pleurisy,  and  wanted  to  come  to  the  hospital, 
but  the  weather  was  extremely  cold,  little  above  zero, 
so  it  was  thought  wiser  to  leave  him  in  his  own  comfortable 
home.  Minute  instructions  were  given,  and  one  of  my 
assistants  visited  him  several  times  daily.  The  progress 
of  his  malady  was  most  incomprehensible.  One  day  he 
would  improve  so  rapidly  that  we  thought  him  out  of 
danger  ; next  day  he  would  be  worse  than  ever.  Had  I 
known  then  what  was  found  out  afterwards,  I would  have 
risked  his  removal  to  the  hospital  as  his  only  chance. 
All  the  time  that  we  were  doing  our  utmost  for  him,  his 
wife,  who  secretly  hated  Christianity  and  held  to  her  old 
religion,  was  consulting  native  doctors.  The  alternations 
of  medicines  accounted  for  the  strange,  rapid  improve- 
ments and  sudden  relapses.  I had  sent  a man  to  sit  up 
with  him  and  administer  the  medicines,  and  we  were 
hoping  that  the  worst  was  over.  But  my  man  was  sent 
home,  the  wife  insisting  that  she  would  do  all  that  was 
wanted.  Next  morning  he  was  worse.  In  the  evening  I 
found  her  administering  the  contents  of  our  medicine 
bottles,  but  they  only  contained  water.  It  was  now  too 
late  to  save  him. 

Patients  are  quite  unaccustomed  to  obey  a doctor’s 
instructions  to  the  letter.  Melons  and  cakes  are  eaten 
against  orders  ; people  grow  tired  of  lying  down  when 
told,  and  are  found  walking  about.  A woman  came  to 
us  with  hip-joint  disease,  and  after  operation  her  leg  was 
put  in  splints.  She  at  once  began  to  complain  of  the 
discomfort  and  cried  herself  ill,  so  that  the  splints  had  to 
be  removed.  She  promised  to  lie  quite  flat  and  straight, 


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VI 


CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS,  DISEASE,  AND  FLOOD 


“ A nation’s  wealth  is  in  the  health  of  its  people.” 


IT  is  probably  not  generally  realized  that  Rome  and 
Chicago  are  about  the  same  distance  from  the 
Equator.  They  and  Moukden  alike  are  about  42°  N. 
The  climate  of  Manchuria  is  distinctly  continental,  with 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  It  is  not  affected  by  ocean 
influences,  and  its  wide  level  plain  has  no  shelter  from 
the  cold  blasts  which  in  winter  sweep  over  Siberia  and 
Mongolia.  The  absence  of  forests  and  larger  vegetation 
also  influences  the  temperature  and  humidity. 

The  summer  is  hot,  but  rarely  in  Moukden  is  it  above 
95°  Fahr.,  and  for  a part  of  the  season  the  dryness  is 
absolute,  so  that  the  sensations  do  not  indicate  the  real 
temperature.  During  the  wet  season  the  heat  is  moist 
and  oppressive  ; the  summer  rains  are  torrential,  several 
inches  often  falling  in  a few  hours.  Spring  and  autumn 
are  short,  winter  lasting  about  five  months,  for  four  of 
which  every  stream  and  pond  is  firmly  icebound.  In 
Moukden  the  minimum  in  an  ordinary  winter  is  20°  Fahr. 
below  zero,  though  33°  have  been  registered,  with  occa- 
sional days  when  it  does  not  rise  above  zero  at  all.  The 
excessive  dryness,  however,  the  prevailing  bright  sun- 
shine, and  the  clear  calm  bracing  atmosphere,  prevent 
this  extreme  from  being  realized.  There  is  usually  a 
good  deal  of  snow,  but  not  enough  to  allow  sledging 
within  many  miles  of  this  city.  In  spring  the  changes  of 

43 


44 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


temperature  are  great  and  sudden,  high  dry  south  winds 
prevail,  and  there  are  also  quiet  wet  days  which  remind 
one  of  the  homeland. 

Manchuria  has  on  the  whole  a desirable  climate, 
healthy  for  Europeans,  if  they  are  careful  in  their  eating 
and  moderate  in  their  drinking,  if  they  are  well  housed 
and  protected  against  the  cold,  and  if  they  take  proper 
precautions  in  the  heat ; for  each  extreme  renders  them 
more  susceptible  to  the  other.  Its  most  trying  feature 
is  its  extreme  dryness,  which,  especially  in  winter,  stimu- 
lates the  nervous  system,  encouraging  men  to  overwork 
without  knowing  it,  and  tending  to  produce  insomnia, 
hysteria,  and  other  diseases  of  nervous  origin. 

When  we  examine  the  conditions  of  life  among  the 
inhabitants  of  Manchuria,  we  are  at  first  surprised  that 
the  race  should  be  physically  so  well  developed,  strong, 
and  healthy  as  we  find  it  to  be. 

The  houses  of  the  common  people  defy  all  our  laws  of 
sanitation.  The  floors  are  either  of  earth  or  brick,  and 
are  on  much  the  same  level  as  the  ground  outside,  or  even 
lower.  In  the  city  they  may  be  several  feet  below  the 
street.  The  dwellings  are  planned  with  a view  to  economy 
of  fuel.  Half  of  the  room  is  occupied  by  a brick  platform, 
the  hang,  covered  with  matting,  whereon  people  sit  cross- 
legged,  and  eat  and  wTork  in  the  daytime,  and  spread  their 
bedding  at  night.  At  one  end  of  the  room  a small  kitchen 
is  partly  partitioned  off  ; here  is  the  millet-stalk  furnace, 
under  a large  pot,  and  the  flues  of  the  chimney  pass  back 
and  forward  inside  the  hang , raising  its  surface  to  a com- 
fortable heat  which  lasts  for  hours.  If  liberally  fired 
twice  or  thrice  a day  when  cooking  the  food,  the  warmth 
will  finger  in  the  bricks  all  the  rest  of  the  time  ; but  the 
smoke  of  the  millet-stalk  fuel  fills  the  apartment,  making 
the  eyes  water  and  the  throat  smart. 

No  attempt  is  made  at  keeping  the  whole  place  clean, 
nor  at  sweeping  behind  cupboards  or  in  comers  ; it  is 
considered  sufficient  if  the  hang  is  clean,  and  a great 


CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS 


45 


many  houses  are  unspeakably  dirty.  The  windows  have 
paper  instead  of  glass,  allowing  very  insufficient  light  to 
penetrate.  Few  rooms  have  proper  ceilings,  and  the 
dust  and  cobwebs  of  years  hang  about  the  roof -beams. 
The  number  of  people  living,  eating,  and  sleeping  in  one 
room  is  excessive,  and  all  these  expectorate  freely  on  the 
floor. 

The  surroundings  of  the  houses  are  also  dirty  and 
insanitary.  Stagnant  water  is  allowed  to  accumulate 
and  every  kind  of  garbage  and  filth,  dogs  and  pigs  being 
the  only  scavengers.  Until  1905  there  was  no  attempt 
at  sanitation,  and  there  is  still  no  drainage  of  any  kind 
except  some  open  ditches,  which  are  roaring  torrents  or 
foul-smelling  holes,  according  to  the  weather.  In  the  city 
there  are  large  stagnant  ponds,  the  natural  drainage  of 
the  rainwater  from  the  streets,  and  in  these  the  people 
clean  their  vegetables  and  wash  their  clothes. 

Personal  cleanliness  is  expensive.  Many  have  to  buy 
their  water  from  water-carts  or  pay  to  have  it  carried 
from  the  nearest  well,  as  women  cannot  draw  water  unless 
the  well  is  at  their  door.  For  six  months  of  the  year  the 
houses  are  too  cold,  and  all  the  year  they  are  too  crowded 
for  baths  to  be  easy  or  even  possible.  There  are  public 
baths  in  the  city  for  men  who  choose  to  pay,  but  none  for 
women.  The  wadded  winter  clothing  is  made  in  autumn 
and  worn  without  change  until  spring,  though  the  better 
off  and  the  more  particular  wear  inner  garments  which 
are  washed  regularly. 

Mothers  have  no  idea  of  the  proper  rearing  of  children. 
They  are  usually  nursed  to  the  age  of  three  or  four,  and 
the  use  of  cow’s  or  goat’s  milk  is  unknown.  When  the 
mother  cannot  feed  her  child,  she  gives  it  rice,  flour,  or 
millet  slops.  During  the  long  winter  the  little  children 
of  the  poorer  classes  are  kept  indoors  owing  to  in- 
sufficiency of  warm  clothing,  and  huddle  together  on  the 
Jcang  with  neither  fresh  air  nor  exercise. 

Under  such  circumstances  we  are  accustomed  to  think 


46 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


that  no  people  could  thrive.  We  would  expect  rickets 
among  the  children,  but  it  is  non-existent ; we  would 
expect  diphtheria,  typhus,  and  typhoid  to  be  endemic, 
but  they  only  appear  in  occasional  infrequent  epidemics. 
We  would  expect  to  find  a stunted  development,  whereas 
the  people  are  notably  big  and  strong.  There  are  certain 
conditions  which  counteract  the  influences  adverse  to 
health. 

The  houses  are  never  overheated,  and  constant  ven- 
tilation is  afforded  through  the  chinks  in  the  ill-fitting 
doors  and  paper  windows,  and  by  the  opening  of  the 
doors  direct  from  outside  to  the  living-rooms.  In  summer, 
windows  and  doors  stand  wide  open  all  day,  and  for  seven 
months  of  the  year  the  children  practically  five  out  of 
doors  except  at  night,  adults  also  to  a much  lesser  degree. 
The  people  five  “ the  simple  life,”  rise  early,  work  hard, 
use  no  stimulants,  do  not  hurry,  and  do  not  worry. 

The  general  result  is  a strong  body,  the  digestion  of  a 
horse,  healthy  tissues,  and  a wonderful  power  of  resisting 
disease.  Were  the  characteristics  supported  by  a proper 
attention  to  infants  during  their  first  few  days  of  fife, 
precautions  against  tuberculosis,  scientific  treatment  of 
disease,  and  general  attention  to  hygiene  and  sanitation, 
there  would  be  nowhere  a stronger  or  more  healthy  people 
than  the  inhabitants  of  Manchuria. 

But  these  matters  are  woefully  neglected.  Thousands 
of  infants  die  of  convulsions  within  a week  of  birth,  owing 
to  ignorance  and  dirt ; many  more  are  blind  for  life  ; 
others  have  their  health  permanently  undermined. 

Tuberculosis  is  the  scourge  of  Manchuria.  The  idea  of 
the  communicability  of  the  disease  has  not  yet  entered 
the  Chinese  mind,  and  owing  to  the  general  practice  of 
expectoration,  the  atmosphere  of  many  a crowded  room 
must  be  loaded  with  bacilli.  Phthisis  is  very  common, 
especially  among  students  and  among  young  women  of 
all  classes.  Girls  are  often  married  at  fifteen  or  sixteen, 
and  then  their  duty  is  to  stay  indoors  doing  the  work  of 


FISHING  ON  THE  SMALL  ltIVER 


■ 


CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS 


47 


the  household,  cooking,  and  sewing,  and  many  a young 
wife  dies  of  “ decline  ” within  a few  years.  In  our 
surgical  wards,  too,  we  have  a large  proportion  of  tuber- 
cular cases. 

Eye  diseases  of  every  kind  are  very  prevalent,  especially 
trachoma  with  all  its  complications.  The  principal  irri- 
tating causes  are  the  smoke  of  the  hangs , particularly 
where,  as  in  some  country  places,  they  are  fired  with 
wood  ; and  the  frequent  dust  storms.  The  sand  and 
impalpable  dust  which  then  load  the  atmosphere  are 
driven  by  the  strong  wind,  filling  the  eyes,  ears,  and 
nostrils  of  any  who  are  out  of  doors,  and  penetrating 
into  every  corner  of  even  the  best  built  house.  Smallpox 
among  children  is  responsible  too  for  a great  deal  of  eye 
disease  and  blindness.  Eye  ailments  are  almost  invariably 
neglected  in  their  early  stages,  and  diseased  eyes  are 
constantly  wiped  with  dirty  cloths,  so  that  many  come 
to  us  in  extreme  conditions  such  as  are  never  seen  at 
home. 

Dyspepsia  of  all  kinds  is  common,  as  millet,  the  staple 
food,  is  hard  to  digest,  and  is  commonly  gulped  down  in 
great  quantities,  often  imperfectly  cooked,  without  any 
attempt  at  mastication.  Raw  and  under-cooked  vege- 
tables are  also  often  eaten.  During  the  hot  season  there 
is  a great  deal  of  dysentery,  diarrhoea,  and  other  diseases 
of  the  alimentary  system.  The  uninstructed  do  not 
associate  diet  with  disease.  Many  a death  is  caused  by 
the  practice  of  eating  the  greater  part  of  the  rind  of  the 
melons  and  cucumbers  which  are  so  abundant  and  cheap 
in  summer. 

Infectious  diseases,  such  as  chicken-pox,  measles, 
scarlet  fever,  and  smallpox,  are  always  more  or  less  among 
us,  for  no  precautions  are  taken  against  their  spread, 
The  last  is  regarded  as  an  ordinary  children’s  ailment, 
and  is  usually  of  a mild  type.  Yet  a great  many  die  of  it* 
and  many  more  are  badly  disfigured  by  pock-marks,  or 
have  other  sad  traces  of  the  ravages  of  the  disease. 


48 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Several  terrible  epidemics  of  cholera  have  swept 
through  the  country  during  the  past  thirty  years.  The 
worst  was  during  my  first  summer  in  Moukden.  Native 
treatment  was  worse  than  useless,  consisting  largely  in 
piercing  with  needles.  The  disease  was  of  a most  malig- 
nant type,  and  the  mortality  was  terrible,  20,000  coffins 
being  carried  out  through  the  city  gates  during  August 
and  September.  We  were  kept  busy  from  morning  till 
night  trying  to  save  lives.  We  had  no  hospital,  nor  even 
a shed  to  shelter  patients,  but  day  by  day  crowds  of 
people  came  to  us  or  were  carried  on  shutters  and 
stretchers,  and  I did  what  I could  for  them  in  the  open 
air.  Another  serious  cholera  epidemic  followed  the 
Chino -Japanese  war,  and  there  have  been  several  less 
severe  visitations. 

In  the  summer  of  1888  a calamity  overtook  us  quite  as 
serious  as  an  epidemic,  and  more  far-reaching  in  its 
results.  It  was  an  exceptionally  hot  and  dry  season  in 
Moukden.  All  June  and  July  the  ground  was  parched 
and  dry,  and  there  were  processions  to  plead  for  rain. 
In  the  mountains  in  the  far  east  where  our  rivers  rise 
there  was,  on  the  other  hand,  an  unusual  amount  of  rain, 
so  that  the  River  Hun,  a couple  of  miles  east  and  south  of 
the  city,  was  flowing  full  and  strong.  Then  our  rains 
came,  incessant  heavy  downpour  for  a fortnight.  Dark 
rumours  began  to  be  circulated  of  floods  among  the  hills, 
and  men  shook  their  heads  as  the  water  steadily  rose  in  the 
river.  On  13  August  the  rain  ceased,  but  late  that  night 
the  water  in  the  Small  River  in  front  of  our  hospital 
and  houses  began  slowly  to  rise,  amid  much  excitement. 
Early  in  the  morning  I heard  shouts  outside  : “ The 
water  is  rising  ! The  water  is  rising  ! ” 

I went  out,  to  find  our  terrace  or  “ Bund  ” crowded, 
and  the  road  between  it  and  the  river  completely  under 
water.  Suddenly  in  the  quiet  flow,  rippling  in  the  bright 
sunshine,  there  was  a swirl  and  a tumultuous  rush  of 


CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS 


49 


waves.  When  it  subsided,  the  water  had  risen  a foot. 
Another  onrush  of  waves — another  rapid  rise — again — 
again — till  it  was  lapping  the  edge  of  our  terrace.  It  had 
risen  15  feet  in  about  three  hours. 

What  was  the  meaning  of  it  all  ? 

During  the  night  a large  volume  of  water  from  the 
hills  had  come  down  the  Hun  valley,  carrying  destruction 
with  it.  Village  after  village  was  swept  away,  and  in 
some  none  were  left  to  tell  the  tale.  From  one  village 
the  only  survivor  was  a woman  who  was  carried  down  ten 
miles  supported  by  a piece  of  wood  under  her  arms. 
There  was  a small  hamlet  some  fifteen  miles  above 
Moukden,  where  the  water  rose  so  rapidly  and  with 
such  terrible  force  that  there  was  no  time  to  escape  to 
higher  ground.  House  after  house  collapsed,  and  the 
inmates  gathered  in  the  darkness  on  the  fallen  walls, 
with  little  hope  of  life.  All  that  night  and  the  next  day 
they  clung  to  the  ruins,  the  water  reaching  the  waist 
and  armpits,  and  no  food  being  obtainable.  When  at 
last  in  the  evening  the  flood  began  to  subside,  eleven  of 
them  were  missing. 

Meantime  the  torrent  had  swept  onward  until,  at  a 
point  about  two  miles  east  of  Moukden,  where  stood  a 
large  wood  yard  and  a village,  the  banks  of  the  Hun 
gave  way.  A great  mass  of  water  left  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  wave  after  wave  poured  down  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Small  River,  submerging  miles  of  low-lying 
closely  populated  country. 

The  quiet  slow  water  before  our  gates  was  now  a deep 
foaming  torrent,  beyond  which  stretched  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  an  angry  sea,  with  clumps  of  trees  showing 
here  and  there,  and  men  and  women  clinging  to  the 
branches.  Past  us  were  swept  logs  from  the  wood  yard, 
bundles  of  millet-stalk,  trees,  tables,  carts.  Then  came 
horses,  mules,  cows,  dogs,  some  already  drowned,  others 
struggling  for  life ; then  human  beings  clinging  to 
floating  pieces  of  wreckage,  or  huddled  together  on  hastily 


50 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


constructed  rafts.  The  water  was  still  rising.  Our 
terrace  was  transformed  into  an  island,  and  quite  cut  off 
from  the  hospital.  At  our  gate  the  water  was  several 
feet  deep,  all  our  compounds  were  submerged,  and  water 
was  under  and  in  the  houses.  The  eastern  wall  of  our 
compound  was  swept  away,  part  of  our  gatehouse 
collapsed,  and  we  saw  a sedan-chair  and  other  of  our 
possessions  float  into  the  swift  current.  At  last,  about 
4 p.m.,  we  found  to  our  relief  that  the  water  had  ceased 
to  rise.  It  was  now  20  feet  above  its  usual  level. 

The  violence  of  the  current  was  such  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  render  much  assistance  to  those  who  were 
drowning,  but  we  did  what  we  could  and  some  lives  were 
saved.  A ring  attached  to  a rope  was  whirled  through 
the  air  to  the  help  of  more  than  one  struggler,  and  in 
one  instance  a rough  raft  with  half  a dozen  people  was  by 
this  means  guided  safely  in  at  the  hospital  gate.  Towards 
evening,  as  the  water  was  slowly  falling,  a man  was  seen 
struggling  at  some  distance  away.  Without  a moment’s 
hesitation  one  of  our  Christian  elders,  a sturdy  old  man 
from  the  coast  of  Shantung  and  a good  swimmer,  threw 
off  his  coat,  jumped  in,  and  struck  out  into  the  stream, 
followed  immediately  by  his  son.  They  dived  and  swam, 
but  could  make  but  slow  progress,  and  the  drowning 
man  had  disappeared  long  before  they  reached  the  spot. 
After  a fruitless  search  they  returned,  evidently  un- 
conscious that  they  had  done  anything  worthy  of  praise. 

It  is  hardly  possible  to  estimate  the  loss  of  life  caused 
by  this  flood.  Besides  the  submerged  villages,  a large 
part  of  the  suburbs  of  Moukden  was  under  water,  and 
several  hundred  were  drowned.  The  loss  of  property 
was  still  greater,  many  families  being  reduced  from  easy 
comfort  to  extreme  poverty.  All  over  Manchuria  the 
rivers  were  flooded,  so  that  the  distress  was  widespread. 

The  immediate  effects  of  the  flood,  however,  were  not 
the  most  disastrous  ; only  when  the  severe  cold  of  winter 
set  in  was  the  misery  of  the  great  mass  of  the  people 


CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS 


51 


realized.  The  harvest  was  destroyed  in  extensive  regions 
of  rich  grain  country,  and  famine  followed  with  its 
attendant  fever.  This  condition  of  things  was  made 
known  in  the  British  newspapers,  a Mansion  House  Fund 
was  opened,  supplies  of  grain  were  soon  forwarded,  and 
the  missionaries  worked  hard  for  months  at  famine- 
relief.  The  hospitals  too  had  their  hands  full,  treating 
fevers  and  other  ailments  resulting  from  insufficient  and 
unsuitable  food.  The  most  trying  time  was  the  following 
summer,  before  the  harvest  was  ready.  General  Tso, 
willing  as  always  to  help  the  needy,  offered  the  temporary 
use  of  a large  barracks  for  famine  cases.  Several  hundred 
were  taken  in  who  would  have  died  on  the  streets,  and 
many  thousands  were  provided  with  food,  medicine,  and 
other  help.  Though  the  harvest  was  exceptionally  good, 
much  distress  continued  throughout  the  next  winter, 
and  it  was  years  before  the  country  recovered  its  pros- 
perity. This  famine-relief  work  had  one  good  effect,  the 
banishing  from  many  districts  of  the  suspicions  and 
prejudices  against  foreigners. 

Another  and  still  more  prolonged  result  of  the  flood 
was  the  development  of  malaria.  Before  this  it  was  un- 
common, twenty-eight  cases  being  recorded  in  our 
dispensary  from  1883  to  1888,  several  of  which  were 
from  other  parts  of  the  country.  During  the  floods  the 
subsoil  was  saturated,  and  large  ponds  and  marshes  were 
left  which  became  stagnant,  offering  a suitable  breeding- 
place  for  mosquitoes.  In  the  next  spring  an  increase  in 
malarial  cases  was  first  noticed,  and  the  numbers  rose 
rapidly  in  summer  and  during  the  following  years,  until 
we  treated  as  many  as  4000  in  a year.  Then  some  dry 
summers  caused  the  drying  up  of  many  ponds,  and 
stretches  of  marshland  were  drained  and  cultivated. 
Our  numbers  fell  steadily,  and  now  we  have  few  cases  of 
malaria  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Moukden. 


VII 

EAST  AND  WEST  : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS 


**  There  is  neither  East  nor  West,  Border,  nor  Breed,  nor  Birth, 

When  two  strong  men  stand  face  to  face,  tho’  they  come  from  the 
9nds  of  the  earth.” 


Rudyard  Kipling. 


“ Man  to  man,  the  warld  o’er, 

Shall  brithers  be,  for  a’  that.” 

Robert  Burns. 


THERE  is  a general  widespread  impression  that  the 
Chinese  are  in  all  things  the  opposite  of  other  men, 
that  they  never  feel  or  think  or  act  as  other  peoples  would. 
Externally  there  is  some  truth  in  this  : their  customs, 
ways  of  speech,  methods  of  action  are  often  the  direct 
antithesis  of  ours,  and  they  look  upon  many  things  from 
quite  a different  point  of  view.  In  fact,  the  longer  one 
lives  in  China  the  more  he  realizes  this  difference,  and 
feels  the  impossibility  in  everyday  life  of  getting  behind 
the  outer  screen,  as  we  do  with  intimate  friends  of  our 
own  or  similar  nationality.  But  when  we  come  to  the 
elemental  passions  at  the  foundation  of  our  common 
human  nature,  then  we  can  grip  their  hands  as  brothers, 
for  we  find  them  strong,  virile,  and  reliable  in  those  deeper 
feelings  which  are  the  mainspring  of  action.  Their  family 
affection,  their  staunch  friendship,  their  unselfishness  to 
those  they  love,  their  homely  joys,  their  love  of  children, 
their  kindliness  to  friends  and  neighbours,  their  warm- 
hearted gratitude,  their  fortitude  in  trouble,  their  patience 
in  enduring,  will  compare  with  those  of  any  nation. 

Their  action  may  often  take  a different  form  from  ours, 

52 


EAST  AND  WEST : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  53 


which  we  forthwith  condemn  ; but  when  we  examine 
into  causes  and  influences  at  work,  we  find  that  our  hasty 
surface  judgments  were  wholly  mistaken. 

A man  is  taken  suddenly  ill  when  walking  alone  along 
a busy  city  street.  He  staggers  and  falls  near  the  door 
of  an  evidently  prosperous  shop.  What  happens  ? 
Passers-by  glance  at  him  curiously  and  go  on ; a few  stand 
and  look  at  him,  but  no  one  touches  him  or  meddles  in 
any  way  ; the  shopkeeper  keeps  studiously  out  of  sight. 
He  is  unconscious  and  a stranger,  so  no  one  can  inform 
his  friends,  but  after  a time  the  shopkeeper  gives  notice 
to  the  yamen  which  has  charge  of  city  affairs,  and  he  is 
removed.  All  this  time  no  one  has  so  much  as  brought 
a cup  of  water,  or  tried  to  make  him  more  comfortable. 

“ Callousness  ! ” exclaims  the  foreigner.  “ Hard- 
hearted, selfish  indifference  ! ” 

But  what  is  the  standpoint,  what  are  the  customs  of 
centuries,  the  laws  of  the  land,  which  lie  behind  this 
action  or  rather  inaction  ? The  law  is  that  those  who 
house,  or  feed,  or  attend  to  a man  who  dies,  thereby 
accept  responsibility  for  him.  If  no  friends  claim  him, 
they  must  bear  the  expense  of  burial.  If  friends  appear, 
these  may  accuse  the  meddlers  of  causing  the  man’s 
death. 

The  daughter  of  my  early  friend,  the  Tao-tai  Gao,  had 
married  a wealthy  and  prominent  official.  One  day  she 
found  a poor  wretch  on  the  street,  lying  half  dead, 
starving,  and  very  ill.  She  hired  men  to  carry  him  to  the 
hospital,  but  on  the  way  he  died,  and  she  paid  for  his 
funeral.  The  man’s  relatives  heard  of  it  and  gathered 
round  her  like  vultures.  Great  lady  as  she  was,  she  had 
to  pay  them  hundreds  of  taels  to  hush  the  matter  up. 
Is  it  any  wonder  that  dying  men  are  left  to  die  on  the 
street  ? 

One  day  when  I had  not  been  long  in  Moukden  and 
was  not  conversant  with  this  point  in  law,  I saw  a crowd 
on  our  river  bank  and  went  down.  In  the  water  was  a 


54 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


drowning  man,  now  unconscious,  a case  of  suicide.  To 
my  indignation,  no  one  was  attempting  to  save  him, 
and  when  I called  on  the  hospital  men  to  help  to  get  him 
out  of  the  water,  they  obeyed  most  unwillingly.  When 
at  last  the  man  was,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  crowd, 
restored  to  life,  I learned  that,  had  the  man  died,  only 
the  fact  of  my  being  a foreigner  would  have  prevented 
serious  consequences  to  those  who  had  touched  him. 

This  law  is  doubtless  the  crystallization  of  an  old 
custom  which  might  once  be  useful  enough  in  preventing 
murder.  People  own  that  it  is  not  a good  law,  but 
customs  which  date  from  the  time  of  Abraham  are  not 
easily  changed. 

Another  charge  frequently  brought  against  the  Chinese 
is  that  of  ingratitude.  Many  a foreigner  does  things 
which  he  considers  kind  and  benevolent,  he  acts  the  part 
of  Lady  Bountiful,  or  the  deus  ex  machina,  and  the  very 
people  whom  he  has  benefited  requite  him  with  in- 
gratitude and  even  dislike.  The  truth  usually  is  in  such 
cases  that  donor  and  recipients  do  not  understand  one 
another.  They  think  that  he  is  paid  for  all  he  does,  or 
has  some  ulterior  motive,  so  why  should  they  be  grateful  ? 
Or  his  benefits  may  be  bestowed  in  such  a way  as  to  offend 
them,  and  while  too  polite  to  tell  him  so,  they  cannot 
go  the  length  of  gratitude. 

When  Chinese  realize  that  they  are  being  kindly 
treated  and  receiving  what  they  have  no  claim  to,  their 
gratitude  is  both  deep  and  practical.  In  the  hospital  we 
have  had  thirty  years’  experience  of  this  ; indeed,  we 
meet  with  far  less  ingratitude  than  do  infirmaries  and 
hospitals  at  home.  All  our  patients  pay  for  their  food, 
except  the  destitute,  for  whom  there  are  free  beds.  Be- 
sides this,  many  subscribe  liberally.  One  day  a man 
brought  me  a shilling,  explaining  that  he  was  that  amount 
in  debt  to  us  when  he  left  the  hospital,  so  before  going 
back  to  his  distant  home  he  had  hired  himself  out  for  a 
month  as  a farm  labourer  until  he  had  saved  this. 


EAST  AND  WEST : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  55 


“ You  cured  me  for  nothing,”  he  said,  “ I must  surely 
pay  for  my  food  ! ” 

Often  have  patients  returned  with  the  present  of  a 
fowl,  or  a basket  of  eggs,  or  even  a bag  of  hazel  nuts  from 
their  own  trees.  A Mongol  boy  dislocated  his  elbow,  and 
was  brought  to  us  after  a year.  The  joint  was  stiff  and 
immovable,  but  an  operation  restored  its  usefulness,  and 
father  and  son  went  joyfully  home.  Months  later  a fine 
black  Mongol  cow  was  driven  into  the  compound  with 
the  compliments  and  thanks  of  the  whole  family.  At  the 
Boxer  time  there  was  a rumour  that  I had  not  escaped, 
but  was  in  hiding  in  the  North  Tomb  woods,  outside  the 
city.  There  was  a horse-dealer  who  had  been  treated  in 
the  hospital,  a regular  cheat  and  rascal  who  to  this  day 
would  rejoice  in  getting  the  better  of  me  in  a bargain. 
He  bought  a basketful  of  various  kinds  of  food  and  went 
secretly  to  those  woods,  where  he  searched  in  vain  for 
me  for  a whole  day.  It  was  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  for  any- 
one known  to  help  a foreigner  would  have  been  killed. 

Liberality  is  a marked  feature  of  the  Chinese,  in  spite 
of  the  popular  idea  of  their  closeness  in  money  matters. 
They  are  not  good  at  systematic  giving,  nor  indeed  at 
anything  systematic,  but  they  respond  warmly  to  any 
call  for  a donation.  Their  presents  to  each  other  at 
marriages,  funerals,  the  birth  of  a first  son,  and  other 
occasions  seem  to  us  quite  out  of  keeping  with  their 
means.  When  a missionary  goes  home  on  furlough  after 
years  among  them,  he  is  overwhelmed  with  gifts  from 
those  who  can  never  expect  to  be  repaid  in  any  way. 
We  have  had  happy  experience  of  this  liberality  in  our 
hospital  and  college,  which  have  been  built  and  maintained 
largely  by  voluntary  contributions  from  the  Chinese. 

Akin  to  this  is  their  great  hospitality , of  the  open 
spontaneous  kind.  Marriages,  funerals,  and  births  are 
the  occasions  of  feasts  to  which  crowds  are  asked,  tents 
being  erected  on  purpose.  They  do  not  confine  their 
hospitality  to  such  stated  occasions,  but  are  ready  with 


56 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


it  at  all  times  and  to  all  comers.  The  invitation  we  so 
often  hear  when  we  stop  to  speak  to  a man  outside  his 
door  : “ Will  you  not  come  in  and  rest,  and  drink  a little 
water  ? ” is  not  a mere  formality.  They  mean  it. 

One  summer  afternoon  we  were  caught  by  a thunder- 
storm when  out  walking  in  the  country.  Near  by  was  a 
tiny  little  hut,  built  of  mud  bricks,  with  a thatched  roof. 
For  this  we  made  with  all  possible  speed,  as  the  drops 
were  heavy  and  our  clothes  thin.  Seeing  us  running,  its 
inmate  opened  the  door  and,  before  we  could  ask  breath- 
lessly for  shelter,  begged  us  to  come  in.  He  apologized 
for  the  poorness  of  his  humble  dwelling,  and  at  once  began 
to  prepare  hot  water  to  offer  us,  excusing  himself  for 
possessing  no  tea. 

“ Had  I known  that  such  honourable  guests  were 
coming,  I would  have  prepared  some,”  he  said,  and  no 
doubt  he  would.  He  made  the  children  at  home,  showing 
them  all  his  little  possessions,  and  had  he  been  a lord  he 
could  not  have  entertained  us  more  courteously.  He 
was  not  a Christian,  nor  had  he  ever  been  near  the 
hospital,  nor  even  spoken  to  a foreigner  before.  We  were 
simply  fellow-beings  in  need  of  shelter,  and  he  gave  it 
gladly. 

We  often  hear  of  the  deceitfulness  and  dishonesty  of 
the  Chinese, — “ ways  that  are  dark,  and  tricks  that  are 
strange.”  Yet  those  who  come  into  close  contact  with 
Chinese  merchants  consider  them  as  reliable  as  any  in  the 
world.  During  over  thirty  years’  experience  I have 
always  found  the  word  of  a respectable  merchant  or 
tradesman  as  good  as  his  bond.  I have  known  of  con- 
tracts between  foreigners  and  Chinese  where  the  China- 
man from  some  unforeseen  cause  lost  money  instead  of 
making  a profit,  yet  he  took  it  as  a matter  of  course 
that  he  should  honourably  fulfil  his  contract.  It  is  a 
common  experience  that  lack  of  trust  or  lack  of  under- 
standing those  with  whom  one  is  dealing  causes  deceit 
and  dishonesty,  whereas  trust  breeds  trustworthiness. 


EAST  AND  WEST : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  57 


Foreigners  may  be  met  with  who  have  lived  a lifetime 
in  China  and  have  not  a good  word  to  say  of  the  Chinese. 
A man  may  lightly  dismiss  a servant  on  suspicion,  or  in 
anger,  or  for  some  breach  of  foreign  custom,  in  a way  which 
the  Chinese  regard  as  unjust.  It  is  difficult  for  him  to 
find  a second  servant  of  real  trustworthiness.  If  a 
misunderstanding  again  occur,  he  becomes  noted  as  a 
man  to  whom  no  good  servant  should  go,  and  all  his  life 
he  will  suffer  from  a succession  of  undesirables,  who  take 
service  to  make  what  they  can  out  of  him,  by  theft  or 
other  means. 

One  cause  of  the  common  imputation  of  dishonesty  is 
the  universal  Chinese  custom  of  commissions,  or,  in  Anglo- 
Chinese  parlance,  “squeezing.”  In  buying  or  selling,  an 
uncertain  percentage  may  remain  in  the  hands  of  each 
person  who  has  to  do  with  the  transaction.  This  is  the 
system  of  the  country,  from  highest  to  lowest,  and  is 
regarded  as  a man’s  lawful  right.  No  doubt  it  is  a bad 
system,  open  to  endless  abuses,  but  it  is  universally 
recognized  and  is  not  considered  dishonest  nor  unjust  if 
kept  within  limits.  It  is  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
calculated  rascality  in  swindling  met  with  in  some  so- 
called  Christian  countries,  though  unfortunately  the 
Chinese  are  beginning  to  learn  such  things  also. 

One  day  I was  visiting  a Chinese  official,  an  intimate 
friend,  whose  family  were  away.  His  head  cook  came  in 
on  business,  and  the  master  said  to  him  : 

“You  must  be  badly  out  of  pocket  now  with  so  few 
to  provide  for.  Here  is  something  to  make  up.”  And 
he  handed  him  some  money.  I was  interested  in  the 
episode,  and  asked  about  this  custom,  which  is  so  objec- 
tionable to  us. 

“ He  gets  about  5 per  cent  on  all  his  purchases,” 
said  the  official.  “ The  other  servants  see  that  he  does 
not  take  too  much.  The  Governor-General’s  people  will 
take  double  that,  there  are  so  many  to  get  a share,  and 
the  Emperor  pays  most  of  all.” 


58 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


The  same  principle  runs  through  all  official  life.  The 
nominal  salary  is  a mere  trifle. 

“ I don’t  get  enough  to  pay  the  food  of  my  horses,” 
said  one  official.  There  are  endless  perquisites  of  office 
which  form  the  real  salary.  The  evil  of  the  system  is 
that  it  is  left  to  each  official  to  determine  what  are  his 
rights,  and  while  there  are  many  conscientious,  fair- 
minded  men  who  take  no  more  than  their  due,  there  are 
not  a few  who,  regardless  of  the  people,  grasp  at  all  they 
can. 

The  Chinaman  is  usually  credited  with  being  stolid , 
whereas  he  is  in  truth,  under  certain  conditions,  one  of  the 
most  nervously  excitable  of  men.  He  will  endure  a great 
deal  if  he  thinks  it  inevitable,  and  not  complain,  and  his 
feelings  do  not  readily  show  themselves  in  his  face  ; but 
deal  with  him  contrary  to  “ reason,”  or  in  a way  which 
he  considers  touches  his  honour,  and  he  quickly  becomes 
so  excited  that  he  loses  all  control  of  himself.  A common 
cause  of  illness  is  a “ fit  of  anger.”  I have  seen  a man’s 
temperature  rise  four  degrees  in  a few  minutes,  solely 
because  of  rage  at  some  news  from  his  home.  There 
was  a patient  in  the  hospital  who  one  evening  suddenly 
lost  the  power  of  speech  and  developed  alarming 
symptoms  with  very  high  temperature.  I found  that  his 
servant  had  just  left  him,  and  he  had  been  very  angry  ; 
so  we  got  the  man  to  return  to  his  duties,  and  gradually 
the  patient  was  restored  to  his  normal  state. 

This  nervous  susceptibility  is  often  worked  upon  by 
the  innate  fatalism  of  the  East.  When  a man  believes  a 
thing  will  happen,  that  goes  far  to  make  it  happen.  An 
elderly  man  suffering  from  severe  dysentery  was  brought 
to  us  by  his  son,  and  after  four  days’  treatment  had  greatly 
improved.  On  talking  with  him  I was  surprised  to  find 
that  he  was  firmly  convinced  that  he  was  dying.  At  the 
beginning  of  his  illness  he  had  consulted  a fortune-teller, 
who  said  that  he  would  certainly  die  at  4 p.m.  on  a certain 
day.  This  the  family  tried  to  prevent  by  sending  him  to  us. 


EAST  AND  WEST  : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  59 


“You  may  do  what  you  like  to  cure  me,”  said  the  old 
man,  “ but  I have  to  die  all  the  same.  It  is  the  Decree  of 
Heaven.”  In  spite  of  our  remonstrances  and  the  en- 
treaties of  his  wife  and  son,  he  got  men  to  carry  him  home 
on  a stretcher,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  appointed 
day  he  died. 

With  a people  of  this  temperament  one  would  expect 
suicide  to  be  common,  and  so  it  is,  but  not  from  the  same 
reasons  as  principally  cause  it  in  Europe.  In  China  a man 
kills  himself  not  because  he  is  tired  of  life,  nor  from  the 
cowardly  desire  to  escape  shame  or  distress  ; but  either 
in  ungovernable  anger  or  because  he  knows  that  his  death 
will  put  the  other  party  in  the  wrong.  You  lend  a man 
money  and  he  cannot  pay  ; you  make  it  unpleasant  for 
him,  and  “take  away  his  face,”  i.e.  his  honour  vis-a-vis 
the  world  ; he  dies  to  revenge  himself  on  you,  and  you 
are  blamed  for  the  death.  Or  you  have  a lawsuit  and  win 
your  case,  but  your  opponent  commits  suicide,  and  it 
would  have  been  better  for  you  to  lose. 

There  was  in  Moukden  a wealthy  family  who  had  land 
in  the  country  adjoining  that  of  some  comparatively 
poor  people.  A dispute  arose  as  to  boundaries  and  they 
went  to  law.  Having  money  to  back  him,  the  rich  man 
won  the  case.  Next  day  a son  of  the  poor  man  com- 
mitted suicide  at  his  door,  and  he  had  heavily  to  com- 
pensate the  parents.  When  that  was  settled,  another  son 
did  the  same,  calling  on  all  to  witness  that  he  did  this 
because  of  the  injustice  his  parents  had  suffered  at  the 
hands  of  this  man.  This  time  a much  heavier  indemnity 
was  demanded,  and,  after  months  of  haggling,  was  paid. 
Then  a third  son  killed  himself,  and  the  payment  of  the 
still  further  increased  blood-money  reduced  the  once 
wealthy  man  to  be  poorer  than  his  rival.  Again  the 
lawsuit  was  heard,  and  this  time  the  country  family 
won  the  case.  The  sense  of  family  honour  is  strong, 
though  manifesting  itself  very  differently  with  us. 

When  a young  wife  is  unhappy,  suicide  by  jumping 


60 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


down  a well  is  not  uncommon.  Immediately  her  own 
parents  or  relatives  demand  money  from  the  father-in- 
law,  because  she  must  have  been  ill-treated  or  she  would 
not  have  killed  herself.  It  may  have  been  done  in  a fit 
of  anger,  and  the  quarrel  may  have  been  entirely  her  own 
fault,  but  this  would  be  difficult  to  prove,  and  in  most 
cases  the  husband’s  family  consent  to  pay  hush-money. 
This  custom  acts  as  a wholesome  deterrent  to  the  ill- 
treatment  of  young  wives  by  mothers-in-law. 

Revenge  or  retaliation  in  some  form  is  looked  upon  as  a 
duty.  If  a person  injures  you,  you  “ lose  face  ” if  you  do 
not  take  some  measures  against  him.  Among  the  rough 
and  illiterate  the  methods  of  revenge  are  sometimes 
terribly  brutal.  A man  came  to  us  with  part  of  his  tongue 
cut  off  by  an  enemy,  another  with  his  eyes  gouged  out 
and  both  hands  chopped  off,  a third  with  all  four  eyelids 
cut  off.  (We  were  able  by  plastic  operations  to  supply 
some  protection  to  the  poor  staring  eyes.)  In  general, 
however,  the  use  of  brute  force  is  condemned,  and  the 
tongue  is  considered  a more  dignified  weapon.  When  we 
hear  with  astonishment  a cultured,  well-dressed  person 
indulging  in  the  most  extreme  vituperation,  and  ask  how 
this  is  possible,  he  answers  calmly  : 

“ He  reviled  me,  so  of  course  I must  curse  him,  or  I 
would  lose  face.”  The  Christian  precept,  Bless  them  that 
curse  you,  does  not  commend  itself  to  the  natural  man 
in  China. 

The  Western  world  has  regarded  China  as  far  behind  in 
all  civilization,  largely  because  of  her  slowness  to  develop 
those  lethal  weapons  a modern  army  and  navy.  In 
spite  of  her  teeming  millions,  she  could  be  coerced  by  a 
gunboat ; therefore  she  was  despised.  It  is  a question, 
however,  whether  her  ideal  of  civilization  is  not  of  a higher 
type  than  that  which  acts  on  the  principle  that  “ might 
is  right.”  In  China  it  has  long  been  recognized  that 
mind  is  superior  to  matter,  intelligence  to  physical 
strength,  the  appeal  to  reason  better  than  decision  by 


EAST  AND  WEST : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  61 


force  of  arms.  Arbitration  is  her  ideal.  A certain  force 
of  soldiers  was  always  necessary,  but  it  was  an  armed 
provincial  constabulary  rather  than  an  army,  and  the 
difference  in  rank  between  a civil  and  a military  official 
shows  how  fighting  was  looked  upon. 

Reason  is  regarded  by  all  as  supreme,  and  is  appealed  to 
on  every  occasion.  No  stronger  condemnation  can  be 
passed  upon  a man,  a family,  a community,  a nation, 
than  that  they  are  devoid  of  “ reason,  reasonableness, 
right  principle,”  as  the  word  may  variously  be  translated. 
When,  at  the  point  of  the  sword,  a nation  makes  a demand 
which  is  manifestly  without  right , and  when  China  has 
to  give  in,  no  one  considers  that  the  superiority  of  the 
foreigners  has  been  established,  but  rather  the  reverse. 
For  it  is  a poor  cause  that  has  to  resort  to  force ; its 
supporters  evidently  realize  that  they  have  not  reason 
behind  them. 

This  is  carried  out  in  communal  and  individual  life. 
To  appeal  to  a man’s  sense  of  reason  has  far  more  effect 
than  threatening  him  with  arrest.  The  settlement  of 
quarrels  by  means  of  middlemen  or  arbitrators  is  uni- 
versal. Until  the  Russo-Japanese  war  brought  Western 
ways  among  us,  there  was  not  a policeman  in  Moukden  nor 
any  other  city,  and  none  were  needed.  Night-watchmen 
there  were,  and  “ yamen  runners  ” who  would  come  to 
arrest  a man  if  sent  for,  but  the  peace  of  the  city  was  in 
the  hands  of  its  citizens. 

The  patriarchal  family  system,  from  20  to  150  souls 
living  as  members  of  one  household,  has  often  been  blamed 
for  causing  family  quarrels.  But  could  we  imagine  such 
a system  enduring  in  the  West  at  all  ? The  dispeace 
would  be  so  constant  and  bitter  as  to  be  almost  unbear- 
able. As  a matter  of  fact,  most  of  these  populous  homes 
live  in  a wonderful  measure  of  amity  and  affection,  all 
the  members  being  ruled  by  the  old  grandfather  or  mother, 
whose  word  is  law,  and  who  acts  as  arbitrator  in  every 
dispute. 


62 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


After  a foreigner  has  become  accustomed  to  his  first 
impressions  and  has  concluded  that  the  Chinese  are 
diametrically  the  opposite  of  ourselves,  he  will,  if  he  lives 
among  them  and  learns  to  know  them  intimately,  gradu- 
ally change  his  mind,  and  find  out  how  like  we  are  after 
all.  A country  farm  with  boys  and  girls  growing  up 
in  health  and  merriment  around  parents  and  grand- 
parents, attending  the  village  school  or  helping  on  the 
farm,  while  the  grown  folks  work  hard  in  the  fields  and 
in  the  home,  and  the  old  people  totter  in  the  summer 
sunshine,  and  doze  in  the  warmest  corner  in  winter — 
it  is  really  much  the  same  as  the  life  on  a croft  or  small 
farm  at  home,  except  that  the  religious  background  of 
life  does  not  exist. 

This  is  in  reality  the  one  vital  difference.  As  a general 
rule,  religion  counts  for  nothing  in  Manchuria.  A man  has 
nothing  great  to  live  for,  no  high  ideals,  nothing  to 
glorify  his  monotonous  daily  round  and  common  task, 
no  desire  for  moral  and  spiritual  growth  and  development 
in  this  fife,  no  hope  for  any  fife  to  come.  He  may  subscribe 
to  the  building  of  a temple,  or  burn  incense  before  an 
idol,  but  that  is  not  usually  a religious  act  at  all.  He  does 
it  as  a form  of  insurance,  to  bribe  the  evil  influences 
which  might  otherwise  harm  his  home,  or  to  secure 
some  temporal  boon  which  he  earnestly  desires,  or  at 
the  most  to  turn  aside  the  punishment  which  his  own 
evil  doings,  known  and  unknown,  would  naturally 
bring. 

Those  who  profess  to  be  religious  in  the  only  way  he 
has  heard  of,  Buddhist  or  Taoist  priests,  or  devotees  who 
have  vowed  to  do  all  kinds  of  uncomfortable  things  in 
the  name  of  religion — he  sees  indulging  at  the  same  time 
in  every  form  of  vice.  Being  an  eminently  reasonable 
man,  he  recognizes  this  practical  divorce  of  religion  from 
morality,  and  concludes  that  religion  is  of  very  little  use. 
At  the  same  time,  for  an  upright  life,  even  if  he  does  not 
practise  it,  he  has  a very  great  respect,  inherited  from 


EAST  AND  WEST : MISTAKEN  JUDGMENTS  63 


generations  of  ancestors  who  have  been  taught  the  high 
morality  of  Confucius. 

For  the  great  bulk  of  the  people,  outside  those  who 
follow  a few  Buddhist  sects,  religion,  properly  speaking, 
does  not  exist,  though  there  is  a vast  deal  of  superstition. 
This  material  life  is  all  they  know  or  care  about.  Even 
their  respect  for  uprightness  and  morality  is  based 
on  the  experience  that  in  the  long  run  they  pay  best. 
What  will  make  money,  furnish  creature  comforts,  and 
above  all  give  security  for  the  coming  years,  that  is  to  be 
followed  after.  A man  is  loyal  to  his  ancestors,  and 
faithfully  worships  at  their  shrines ; and  when  his  time 
comes  he  will  be  gathered  to  his  fathers,  and  his  children 
whom  he  has  instructed  will  in  their  turn  worship  at  his 
shrine.  What  good  will  it  do  to  him  ? we  ask.  And  the 
many  millions  of  Manchuria  all  give  one  answer  : “ Who 
knows  ? ” 


VIII 

FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD 


“ No  sooner  was  I fairly  found 
Pledged  to  the  plain,  after  a pace  or  two. 

Than  pausing  to  throw  backward  a last  view 
To  the  safe  road,  ’twas  gone  ! grey  plain  all  round  ! 
Nothing  but  plain  to  the  horizon’s  bound  ! ” 

“ Childe  Roland  to  the  Dark  Tower  Came.” 

Robert  Browning. 

THERE  are  few  parts  of  the  world  where  the  modern 
change  in  ease  of  access  has  been  more  marked  than 
in  Manchuria.  One  can  now  leave  London  at  nine  o’clock 
on  a Monday  morning,  and  after  a comfortable  sleeping-car 
journey  drive  through  the  Moukden  streets  in  the  after- 
noon of  Friday,  eleven  days  later.  The  contrast  with 
thirty  years  ago,  and  indeed  with  thirteen  years  ago,  is 
greater  than  the  contrast  between  that  time  and  the 
days  of  sailing  ships. 

Manchuria  used  to  be  one  of  the  remote  parts  of  China, 
little  known  and  seldom  visited.  After  the  six  weeks’ 
voyage  from  London  to  Shanghai,  a coasting  steamer  to 
Newchwang  must  be  waited  for,  perhaps  as  long  as  ten 
days.  Arrived  there  after  a three  or  four  days’  voyage, 
another  stay  of  a few  days  was  necessary,  to  hire  carts 
and  prepare  for  the  journey  up-country.  Bedding  was 
needed  for  the  inns  by  the  way,  a servant  to  prepare  food, 
pots  and  pans  to  cook  it  in,  knives  and  forks  to  eat  it  with, 
plates  and  cups  for  those  who  did  not  care  to  use  the 
scanty  and  coarse  inn  supply,  and  a store  of  sufficient 


64 


FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD  65 


foreign  food  to  eke  out  the  native  fare  of  the  inns,  on 
which  few  foreigners  can  maintain  health. 

Inland  travel  was  no  easy  matter,  and  it  remains  the 
same  to  this  day  aside  from  the  railway  lines.  Made 
roads  are  non-existent.  Rough  tracks  lead  across  the 
country  from  village  to  village,  usually  below  the  level 
of  the  surrounding  land,  and  deep  ruts  are  worn  by  strings 
of  heavy  carts  conveying  the  produce  of  the  district  to 
the  nearest  mart.  In  times  of  rain  these  roads  become 
streams  or  a succession  of  ponds  and  quagmires,  and  the 
weary  mules  have  to  struggle  on  at  a snail’s  pace,  some- 
times only  succeeding  in  making  five  miles  a day.  Occa- 
sionally a mule  is  drowned  in  the  road. 

The  passenger  travels  in  a springless  cart  drawn  by 
three  horses  or  mules,  which  are  guided  chiefly  by  the 
voice  of  the  driver.  The  jolting  is  most  trying,  conducive 
to  headache  or  sickness,  especially  to  the  inexperienced. 
Many  a traveller  concludes  it  to  be  preferable  to  walk, 
until  fatigue  drives  him  back  to  the  questionable  comfort 
of  his  cart.  When  approaching  darkness  makes  a halt 
necessary,  he  has  to  content  himself  with  a Chinese  inn. 
To  the  experienced  this  is  no  hardship,  but  the  new- 
comer feels  a brick  bed  very  hard,  in  spite  of  the  mattress 
he  has  with  him  ; the  smoky  rushlight  gives  a miserable 
light ; and  the  prying  eyes  peering  through  the  holes,  so 
easily  made  in  the  paper  partition  or  windows  of  what  is 
called  a private  room,  cause  an  uncomfortable  lack  of 
privacy.  Then  the  carter  always  insists  on  starting  in 
the  small  hours  of  the  morning,  when  in  winter  it  is 
bitterly  cold.  The  journey  of  120  miles  to  Moukden  by 
cart  used  to  occupy  from  four  to  eight  days,  according  to 
weather  and  the  condition  of  the  roads. 

In  summer,  instead  of  carts  a boat  might  be  hired, 
a rough  river-craft  used  for  beans  and  other  cargo.  The 
passenger  took  the  place  of  the  beans  in  the  bottom  of  the 
boat,  a matting  tent  giving  privacy  and  protection.  Here, 
with  a fair  degree  of  comfort,  the  journey  might  be  made 


66  THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 

in  anything  from  three  to  ten  days,  more  probably  the 
latter.  If  the  wind  was  favourable  the  boat  sailed  along 
pleasantly  among  green  fields  or  between  high  banks  with 
overhanging  willows,  but  at  every  bend  the  long  poles 
were  needed  to  keep  her  off  the  banks  or  shallows.  Going 
up-stream,  more  often  the  men  poled  for  hours  at  a time, 
the  monotonous  tramp  of  their  bare  feet  resounding  on 
the  narrow  deck  which  runs  on  either  side  of  the  boat. 
At  other  times,  when  the  wind  was  adverse  or  the  con- 
trary current  strong,  the  crew  took  to  “ tracking.”  A 
rope  was  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  mast,  so  as  to  clear 
bushes  and  trees  on  the  banks,  and  the  two  or  three 
available  men  toiled  with  it  along  the  tow-path,  while 
one  remained  on  board  to  steer.  For  those  who  knew 
the  language  and  could  chat  with  the  boatmen  and  the 
villagers,  these  journeys  by  river  were  a pleasant  variety, 
even  when  the  boat  stuck  on  a sandbank  and  it  took  some 
hours  to  get  her  off.  For  a stranger,  however,  the 
journey  by  road  or  by  water  was  not  inviting,  and  it  is 
not  to  be  wondered  at  that  Inland  Manchuria  in  those 
early  days  saw  very  few  visitors. 

In  winter  the  feeling  of  isolation  was  intensified  by 
the  difficulty  of  getting  into  or  out  of  the  country.  To- 
wards the  end  of  November  the  Port  of  Newchwang,  the 
one  gate  to  Manchuria,  “ closed,”  and  remained  ice- 
bound for  at  least  four  months.  Letters  came  by  swift 
couriers  overland  from  Shanghai,  taking  more  than  a 
month,  but  to  travel  that  way  was  out  of  the  question. 
Exit  by  the  north  was  still  more  impossible,  as  the 
Siberian  Railway  had  not  even  been  thought  of.  To  the 
east  was  the  Hermit  Kingdom  of  Korea,  where  no  foreigner 
could  enter.  Dalny  had  not  yet  been  created,  and  the 
only  way  of  crossing  the  sea  in  winter  was  to  trust  one- 
self to  the  storms  in  a Chinese  sailing  junk,  after  an 
overland  journey  of  a week  or  ten  days  to  Port  Arthur 
or  one  of  the  bays  near  it. 

Those  foreigners  who  lived  up-country  remained  there 


FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD 


67 


for  the  most  part  all  the  year  round.  There  was 
no  summer  resort  within  reach,  and  the  only  change 
possible  without  great  expense  was  to  pay  a visit  to 
some  other  station,  or  to  go  on  a tour  into  the  farther 
interior. 

Itinerating  tours  were  and  are  often  taken  in  winter, 
when  the  roads  are  frozen  hard  and  the  cart  can  rattle 
over  them  or  along  the  ridges  of  the  bare  brown  fields  at 
a trot,  and  cover  as  much  as  forty  miles  in  a day.  Then 
the  people  are  at  leisure  from  their  farm  labour,  and  have 
time  to  listen  or  to  bring  their  sick  folk.  A journey  in 
spring  is  a delight  to  the  soul,  with  the  fresh  green  life 
bursting  forth  all  around  after  the  dreary  winter,  and 
the  wild  flowers  rejoicing  in  their  new  life.  But  the  body 
has  to  pay  dear  for  such  soul-luxuries,  as  the  cart  bumps 
and  toils  in  the  mud  and  deep  ruts.  In  summer  the  colour 
dies  out,  the  freshness  and  greenness  become  wilted  and 
dull,  the  heat  makes  travelling  a burden  and  a danger 
to  a foreigner  ; then  too  come  the  heavy  rains,  the 
streams  are  swollen  and  hard  to  ford,  the  roads  become 
rivers  or  quagmires. 

An  early  autumn  journey  is  through  quite  a different 
land.  The  cart  or  riding-horse  jogs  along  the  country 
roads  and  lanes  with  tall  twelve-foot-high  millet  on  either 
side.  The  traveller  cannot  see  more  than  a few  yards 
away,  except  the  road  behind  and  in  front  and  the 
cloudless  distance  overhead.  Only  now  and  then  as  he 
reaches  some  rising  ground  he  draws  his  breath  at  the 
rich  beauty  before  him,  miles  and  miles  of  millet,  the 
heavy  red-brown  heads  of  grain  waving  cumbrously  on 
their  thick  stalks  in  the  blue  sunshine,  while  here  and 
there  a farm  or  a hamlet  nestling  amid  its  trees,  or  a field 
of  other  grain  or  vivid  green  vegetables,  breaks  the  ride 
monotony. 

My  first  country  journey  was  in  the  spring  of  1884, 
when  I had  been  a year  and  a half  in  Manchuria.  With 
a light  heart  I put  aside  all  my  language-study  books, 


68 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


packed  into  a cart  my  bedding  and  a few  other  belong- 
ings, a good  stock  of  medicines  and  some  instruments, 
and  took  three  days’  journey  south  to  Haicheng,  to  join 
my  companion,  a senior  missionary,  the  Rev.  John 
MacIntyre.  He  also  had  a cart  with  bedding  and  other 
things,  and  a stock  of  Gospels  and  Christian  books  and 
tracts.  We  ourselves  rode  on  horseback,  much  the 
pleasantest  mode  of  travel.  From  Haicheng  we  struck 
away  into  the  hill  country  to  the  south-east,  and  I began 
to  realize  what  a beautiful  land  Manchuria  is.  Spring 
had  come  with  a rush,  violets  were  carpeting  the  woods, 
bluebells  were  ringing  joyously,  and  the  trees  eagerly 
“ uttering  green  leaves.”  Undulating  hills  gave  place  to 
high  mountains  with  grand  passes,  reminding  us  of  our 
own  Scottish  highlands.  The  summits  and  clefts  of 
these  heights  were  still  white,  and  clear  streams  from 
the  melting  snows  ran  in  the  valleys.  A striking 
feature  on  these  rivers  is  the  many  weirs  and  water- 
mills with  turbine  wheels,  in  use  here  for  hundreds  of 
years. 

In  every  town  and  village  where  we  stopped  we  made 
known  that  we  would  see  patients,  and  crowds  of  as- 
tonished people  surrounded  us.  Many  ailments  were 
cured  and  minor  operations  performed,  the  existence  of 
a hospital  in  Moukden  was  made  known,  many  books 
were  sold,  thousands  listened  to  our  preaching,  and  all 
went  away  saying  that  “ this  Jesus  religion  must  be  quite 
a good  thing.”  We  went  as  far  as  the  River  Yalu,  the 
border  of  Korea,  then  turning  north  returned  by  a 
different  route. 

One  day  towards  dusk,  in  a sparsely  inhabited  dis- 
trict, we  found  ourselves  several  miles  from  the  only  inn, 
and  between  us  and  it  was  a river,  swollen  with  the 
melting  snows.  It  was  quite  evident  that  the  carts  could 
not  cross. 

“ We  can  swim  if  need  be,”  said  Mr.  MacIntyre,  “ and 
so  can  the  horses  ; let’s  ride  across.”  So  we  plunged  into 


FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD  69 


the  clear  rapidly-flowing  stream.  Fortunately  swimming 
was  not  necessary,  the  animals  kept  their  footing  and 
struggled  through  to  the  other  side.  We  found  our  way 
to  the  inn,  reaching  it  about  dark,  a poor  hovel,  only  one 
common  room,  with  two  old  men  as  innkeepers.  We  were 
tired  and  glad  of  a resting-place,  humble  though  it  was. 
There  was  neither  candle  nor  lamp,  but  the  end  of  a 
tarred  rope  was  lit,  hanging  from  a beam,  and  by  this 
dim  light  I looked  at  my  watch. 

“ What  is  that  toy  ? ” asked  one  of  the  old  men. 

“ It  tells  the  time,”  I answered. 

“ What  time  ? What  do  you  mean  by  time  ? ” 

“ It  shows  where  the  sun  is.” 

Turning  to  his  brother,  he  asked  in  a puzzled  way  : 

“ But  the  sun’s  down  long  ago : how  can  he  tell  where 
it  is  ? ” 

“ Ai-ya  / ” said  the  brother,  with  awe.  “ He  can  still 
see  it  in  that  glass ! What  can  these  foreigners  not 
do?” 

We  were  ravenously  hungry,  but  there  was  no  food  of 
any  kind  in  the  inn  except  dry  cobs  of  last  year’s  Indian 
corn.  These  we  had  boiled,  and  thus  took  the  edge  off 
our  hunger.  At  last,  about  midnight,  our  carts  arrived, 
and  we  were  thankful  to  have  a second  and  more  digest- 
ible supper,  and  our  beds.  Early  next  morning  we  were 
astir,  preparing  to  go  on.  As  our  horses  were  being 
saddled  the  old  man  again  began  to  question  us  : 

“ How  far  away  is  your  country  ? ” 

“ Many  thousand  miles.” 

“ And  did  you  ride  all  the  way  on  that  horse  ? ” 

Some  days  later  an  untimely  snowstorm  overtook  us. 
Snow  in  Manchuria  is  usually  dry  as  powder  ; but  the 
first  early  fall  and  the  late  snow  of  spring  are  like  the 
home  article,  finding  their  way  damply  into  every  nook 
and  cranny,  penetrating  even  into  the  recesses  of  bedding 
and  bundles  in  the  carts,  so  we  were  weather-bound  in  a 
wayside  inn.  Many  people  gathered  to  look  at  us,  to 


70 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


watch  us  eat,  to  listen  to  us  speaking  to  each  other  in  a 
foreign  language,  to  examine  our  strange  clothes  and 
belongings,  to  tell  of  their  ailments,  to  question  us  as  to 
what  made  us  come  here.  Among  them  was  a man  with 
an  enormous  unsightly  tumour  over  one  eye.  He  had 
heard  of  our  Moukden  work,  and  came  to  us  begging  to 
have  this  taken  away.  Forthwith  a table  was  brought, 
antiseptics  prepared,  and  there  in  the  middle  of  the 
gaping  crowd,  amid  much  excitement,  the  tumour  was 
removed  and  the  wound  sewed  up.  It  was  dressed 
that  evening  and  next  morning,  then  left  to  Nature’s 
care.  I afterwards  heard  that  it  healed  most  satis- 
factorily. 

The  arrival  of  a foreigner  in  Moukden  in  those  days 
was  quite  an  event.  One  winter  evening  early  in  1885 
our  servant  came  in  to  say  that  there  was  a foreigner  at 
the  gate,  but  he  evidently  hesitated  to  bring  him  in. 
I went  out,  and  there  was  an  elderly  man  in  decidedly 
dirty  and  ragged  Chinese  clothes,  the  colour  of  whose 
shaggy  beard  proclaimed  at  once  that  he  was  no  China- 
man. As  he  knew  no  English,  nor  could  I make  out  his 
language,  we  were  reduced  to  conversing  in  Chinese. 
He  was  a Pole  who  had  been  shipwrecked  more  than 
twenty  years  before  in  the  south  of  Manchuria.  Accord- 
ing to  his  statement,  he  was  the  only  survivor  from  the 
wreck,  and  the  British  Consul  in  Newchwang  had  helped 
him,  and  had  sent  him  away  to  the  far  borders  of  Man- 
churia to  find  out  about  the  “ Fish-skin  Tartars.”  He 
travelled  north  day  after  day,  until  he  found  himself  near 
the  region  he  sought ; but  his  money  was  exhausted, 
so  he  hired  himself  as  farm  labourer  to  a Chinaman  and 
settled  down  there. 

It  was  a wild  lawless  country,  quite  beyond  the  control 
of  any  Government,  and  was  at  that  time  under  a brigand 
chief  who  had  power  of  life  and  death.  A common 
punishment  for  those  who  thwarted  him  was  burying 


FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD  71 


alive.  Here  the  Pole  worked  hard  and  behaved  well,  so 
that  he  won  the  confidence  of  the  people,  and  got  a piece 
of  ground  of  his  own  to  farm.  He  married  a Chinese 
woman  and  lived  happily  with  his  family  for  a good  many 
years. 

Then  a tragedy  befell  them.  A terrible  flood  swept 
away  wife,  children,  homestead,  crops  ; and  now,  alone 
and  desolate,  his  thoughts  turned  to  his  mother,  sisters, 
and  country.  He  was  trying  to  work  his  way  slowly  to 
Newchwang,  where  he  hoped  to  get  a ship  and  return  to 
his  native  land.  For  all  these  years  he  had  heard  no  news 
of  European  events,  and  he  listened  eagerly  to  the  story 
of  the  Franco -Prussian  war  and  the  rise  of  the  German 
Empire.  But  what  of  Poland  ? When  I told  him  that 
the  last  effort  for  independence  had  failed,  and  that  there 
was  no  Poland,  and  showed  him  the  map  of  Europe,  he 
wept  like  a child. 

The  Chinese  Christians  were  greatly  interested  in  the 
man,  especially  when  he  told  them  he  too  was  a Christian, 
and  they  collected  among  themselves  a considerable  sum 
to  help  him  on  his  journey.  We  rigged  him  out  with  old 
foreign  clothes,  entertained  him  for  a few  days,  and  then 
sent  him  down  to  Newchwang  with  a letter  to  the  British 
Consul.  Afterwards  we  heard  that  he  went  straight  to 
the  Roman  Catholic  Mission  in  Newchwang,  saying  that 
he  was  a Catholic,  which  was  no  doubt  true,  and  the 
priests  gave  him  money.  He  also  went  to  the  Consul  and 
others  with  my  letter  and  got  money  from  them.  Then 
one  day  he  disappeared,  but  not  by  steamer,  and  no  one 
heard  of  him  again.  Doubtless  he  was  a political  exile 
who  dare  not  return  to  the  Poland  he  yearned  for. 

Sometimes  we  had  visitors  of  a very  different  type, 
as  when  Sir  Henry  (then  Mr.)  James,  and  Sir  Francis 
(then  Lieutenant)  Younghusband,  and  Mr.  Fulford  (now 
Consul-General)  spent  a few  days  with  us  on  their 
way  to  explore  the  regions  of  the  “ Long  White 
Mountains.” 


72 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Some  years  later  we  had  a visit  from  the  distinguished 
traveller  Mrs.  Isabella  Bird  Bishop.  She  was  in  Korea 
when  the  revolt  broke  out  which  ushered  in  the  Chino  - 
Japanese  war,  and  with  other  ladies  was  ordered  out. 
Her  plans  being  thus  overturned,  she  came  to  Newchwang 
and  took  boat  for  Moukden.  A few  hundred  yards  from 
our  door  her  cart  was  upset  in  trying  to  avoid  a black 
pool  of  unknown  depth ; she  was  thrown  out  against  a 
stone,  receiving  bad  bruises,  and  her  arm  was  seriously 
injured.  For  over  five  weeks  she  remained  in  Moukden, 
taking  a deep  interest  in  our  work  and  in  all  that  hap- 
pened, visiting  the  hospital  constantly,  inquiring  into 
the  history  of  each  patient,  and  taking  photographs. 
We  were  greatly  impressed  by  her  energy  and  keenness 
in  the  face  of  ill-health  and  suffering.  Her  right  arm 
being  disabled  she  immediately  set  herself  to  learn  to 
write  with  her  left  hand,  and  in  this  way  part  of  the  MS. 
of  her  book  on  Korea  was  written.  She  was  with  us 
during  a trying  time  of  deep  anxiety  and  some  danger 
at  the  beginning  of  the  war,  when  she  endeared  her- 
self to  us  all,  and  ever  afterward  she  remained  a staunch 
friend  to  us  and  our  w^ork.  A part  of  the  Medical 
College  here  is  erected  in  her  memory  and  with  her 
money. 

As  a general  rule,  as  long  as  there  was  no  railway, 
months  passed  without  our  seeing  any  European  outside 
our  own  little  circle.  It  was  in  the  winter  after  the 
Chino -Japanese  war  that  we  first  began  to  feel  that  the 
great  world  outside  was  stretching  its  covetous  fingers 
into  the  plains  and  valleys  of  Manchuria.  One  day  we 
had  most  unexpected  visitors,  a Russian  colonel  and 
lieutenant,  attended  by  four  Cossacks,  the  first  we  had 
ever  seen.  They  had  travelled  through  Korea,  had  passed 
northward  into  Manchuria,  and  had  now  come  south  as 
far  as  Moukden.  We  invited  them  to  spend  an  evening 
with  us,  and  had  a most  pleasant  time  with  them.  That 
night  as  I stood  at  our  gate,  and  saw  them  mount  their 


FAR  FROM  THE  MADDING  CROWD  73 


horses  and  ride  off  at  a gallop  by  the  light  of  the  brilliant 
winter  stars,  and  heard  the  hoofs  clatter  in  the  distance 
on  the  hard  roads,  it  seemed  like  a warning  that  old  times 
were  passing  away,  and  that  Manchuria  was  to  be  left 
to  her  isolation  no  longer. 


IX 

progress,  1883-1894 


“ Take  up  the  White  Man’s  Burden — . . . 

“ By  open  speech  and  simple 

An  hundred  times  made  plain, 

To  seek  another’s  profit 
And  work  another’s  gain. 

“ And  when  your  goal  is  nearest, 

The  end  for  others  sought, 

Watch  sloth  and  heathen  folly 
Bring  all  your  hopes  to  nought.” 

Rudyard  Kipling. 


MY  first  Sunday  in  Moukden,  the  service  was  held 
in  a small  room,  with  under  a score  of  Chinese 
present,  all  men.  It  was  a warm-hearted,  united  little 
company,  very  hopeful  too,  in  spite  of  obloquy  and 
persecution,  looking  forward  to  the  time  when  Man- 
churia would  be  conquered  for  their  King.  But  I do  not 
think  that  the  most  hopeful  would  have  believed  it 
possible  that  thirty  years  later  there  would  be  twenty-six 
thousand  Protestant  Christian  members  of  the  churches, 
besides  many  more  adherents,  and  that  in  Moukden  alone 
about  a thousand  would  gather  every  Sunday  to  worship 
God  in  three  different  churches  or  halls. 

Speaking  generally,  Manchuria  has  been  more  respon- 
sive than  any  part  of  China,  in  proportion  to  the  number 
of  foreign  missionaries  at  work.  This  is  due  partly  to  the 
mixed  nature  of  the  population.  Men  who  have  been 
transplanted  from  various  parts  of  China  do  not  naturally 

74 


PROGRESS,  1883-1894 


75 


hold  on  firmly  to  their  old  local  superstitions  and  beliefs. 
Where  so  many  experiences  in  life  are  new,  a new  religion 
does  not  seem  so  impossible.  The  inward  impulse  to 
find  some  settled  faith  to  hold  by  has  caused  thousands 
of  these  Manchurian  Chinese  to  enter  Buddhist  sects, 
groping  after  truth.  These  sects  have  been  manifest 
feeders  of  the  Church,  furnishing  some  of  her  most  earnest 
votaries  and  deepest  thinkers,  and  at  the  same  time  also 
her  keenest  and  most  determined  antagonists. 

The  progress  of  Christianity  in  Manchuria  is  still  more 
largely  due  to  the  policy  adopted  from  the  beginning  in 
mission  woik,  the  most  prominent  principle  of  this  policy 
being  that  the  Christian  Church  must  be  Chinese,  not 
foreign.  The  members  have  been  encouraged  to  under- 
take the  spreading  of  the  light  themselves.  From  the 
first,  responsibility  was  laid  on  Chinese  evangelists  and 
Christians,  and  it  is  they  who  have  brought  in  these 
thousands.  The  Church  is  also  Chinese  in  its  organization 
and  administration.  Where  foreign  rules  and  customs 
have  been  introduced,  it  has  only  been  until  the  people 
themselves  chose  to  alter  them.  Denominationalism  has 
been  conspicuously  absent,  at  least  ninety-nine  of  every 
hundred  members  to-day  being  unaware  that  there  have 
all  along  been  several  independent  missionary  societies  at 
work,  viz.  the  United  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  the 
Irish  Presbyterian  Church,  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible 
Society,  and  since  1895  the  Danish  Lutheran  Church. 
To  the  Chinese  mind  there  is  but  one — the  Christian 
Church  of  Manchuria. 

Then  when  the  church  in  Moukden  grew  large  enough 
to  need  a special  building,  this  was  not  erected  among  or 
even  near  the  houses  of  the  missionaries,  but  in  a more 
central  and  convenient  situation  near  the  inner  city  gate. 
It  was  built  in  purely  Chinese  style,  with  a pagoda  tower 
of  which  the  Christians  were  very  proud,  and  it  could 
accommodate  seven  or  eight  hundred.  Adjoining  it  were 
built  later  on  first  one  and  then  a second  “ manse,”  in 


76 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


which  live  the  two  Chinese  pastors  of  the  congregation, 
so  that  there  is  no  trace  of  foreign  domination. 

Another  principal  factor  in  breaking  down  the  pre- 
judice against  Christianity  and  in  making  its  teachings 
widely  known,  has  been  Medical  Missions.  This  method 
has  been  largely  used  in  Manchuria,  more  so  than  in  most 
provinces.  Moukden  came  first  as  a medical  centre,  and 
was  followed  at  intervals  of  a few  years  by  Liaoyang, 
Kwanchengtze,  Kirin,  and  others,  until  now  there  are 
hospitals  in  eighteen  different  centres  dotted  over  the 
country. 

In  Medical  Mission  work  the  general  methods  are  much 
the  same  everywhere : we  itinerate,  we  see  out-patients, 
we  open  a hospital,  and  we  teach. 

1.  Itinerating  is  at  first  of  very  great  use  in  a double 
sense  : it  enables  the  people  to  know  us,  and  us  to  know 
the  people.  It  spreads  the  news  of  the  existence  of  a 
foreign  doctor,  medical  work,  and  the  Christian  religion, 
and  gives  us  the  opportunity  of  making  friends.  Later 
on  it  becomes  unnecessary,  and  is  felt  to  be  waste  of 
time  and  money  in  comparison  with  hospital  work. 
Here  are  some  extracts  from  the  journal  of  a journey 
made  in  1886,  the  route  being  north  to  Tieling,  south-east 
to  Yungling,  and  west  to  Moukden,  about  two  hundred 
miles  in  all. 

“Mon.,  Nov.  23. — Cold  stormy  day,  snow  falling 
heavily.  Saw  out-patients  early,  and  called  on  two 
official  patients.  Started  on  journey  2.30  p.m.  in  a 
snowstorm.  Am  advertised  to  see  patients  on  Wednes- 
day at  Ilu,  a village  25  miles  distant,  and  hope  to  meet 
Webster  there.  A courier  has  been  sent  before  to 
intimate  our  coming  all  along  the  route,  and  bills  have 
been  posted  up  explaining  the  object  of  our  visit. 
Roads  hard,  very  rutty,  progress  slow.  Only  made  3 
miles,  putting  up  for  the  night  at  a village.  Inn  small, 
smoky,  filthy. 


MOUKDEN  MISSION  CHURCH 


PROGRESS,  1883-1894 


77 


“ Tues .,  24 th. — On  road  at  daybreak,  keen  north 
wind.  Reached  large  village  about  9.30  a.m.  Inn- 
keeper friendly  and  loud  in  praise  of  Englishmen. 
Professed  to  be  anxious  to  understand  our  religion, 
but  sincerity  doubtful.  I was  recognized  by  several 
as  the  ‘ Moukden  free-healing  doctor,’  and  greeted 
heartily.  5 p.m.  Got  to  Ilu , Webster  awaiting  me. 
Seems  a place  of  some  importance. 

“ Wed.,  25th. — After  breakfast  saw  34  patients,  and 
at  the  same  time  there  was  preaching,  and  tracts  were 
given  away.  In  afternoon  walked  20  li  to  next  village, 
where  we  stayed  the  night. 

“ Thurs .,  2 6th. — Saw  patients  and  was  asked  to  visit 
several  in  their  homes,  which  means  a decided  increase 
of  confidence.  Left  at  1 p.m.  and  reached  Tieling  at  5. 
Fine  city,  beautifully  situated.  Has  two  distilleries 
and  twenty  pawnshops,  the  latter  being  used  like 
banks  and  regarded  by  the  Chinese  as  a sure  mark  of 
prosperity.  Mr.  Ross  and  Mr.  Webster  were  stoned  out 
of  this  city  not  long  ago. 

“ Frid.,  27 th. — Patients  began  to  gather  early,  and 
I went  on  examining  cases  and,  with  Webster’s  help, 
dispensing  medicines  as  long  as  daylight  allowed,  and 
for  some  time  with  the  feeble  glimmer  of  a native 
candle.  Preaching  in  chapel  from  morn  till  night. 
Pleasing  to  see  the  good  order  and  friendliness  in  the 
large  crowd.  An  old  patient  who  was  cured  in  Moukden 
a year  ago  presented  himself,  and  his  account  of  his 
cure,  which  he  was  proud  to  repeat  again  and  again, 
did  much  in  inspiring  confidence. 

“ Sat.,  28 th. — Dispensed  until  noon — saw  in  all  120. 
Left  at  1 p.m.  for  the  south-east  and  entered  beautiful 
hill  scenery.  Rich  country,  well  cultivated,  densely 
populated.  Spent  night  at  village  with  400  people. 
Slept  in  small  outer  room  whose  temperature  was 
several  degrees  below  zero.  In  the  evening  we  rolled 
ourselves  in  our  fur  rugs  and  coats  on  the  hang,  and 
began  to  explain  our  message  to  some  who  gathered 


78 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


to  look  at  the  foreigner.  All  promised  to  read  our 
books.  At  midnight  we  were  awakened  by  the  loud 
squealing  of  pigs,  barking  of  dogs,  shouting  and 
general  uproar.  A pack  of  wolves  had  come  down  from 
the  hills,  and  one,  finding  its  way  into  the  compound, 
had  a desperate  fight  with  the  dogs.  . . . 

“ Tues.,  1st  Dec. — At  a town  of  1000  inhabitants. 
People  very  hostile  and  suspicious.  Servant  was  asked 
by  several  what  was  the  secret  purpose  at  the  bottom 
of  our  visit.  Feared  none  would  trust  us  or  our  drugs. 
At  last  a young  man  came  forward  suffering  from  a 
simple  abscess.  An  incision  gave  great  and  immediate 
relief,  and  did  wonders  in  our  favour.  Saw  42  cases. 

“ Wed.,  2nd  Dec. — Passed  through  fine  mountainous 
scenery,  where  are  tigers,  etc.  Yesterday  two  cows 
were  devoured,  and  last  winter  a young  man  was 
carried  away  by  a tiger  from  quite  near  a house  we 
passed,  and  never  heard  of  again. 

“ Tlnurs .,  3 rd  Dec. — At  one  village  people  very 
suspicious.  The  sight  of  my  stethoscope  made  a man 
run  for  his  life. 

“ Frid.,  tih  Dec. — Reached  Yungling,  a large  Manchu 
town.  Expected  opposition,  but  found  the  opposite. 
A mandarin  who  was  treated  in  Moukden  called  on  us 
and  this  influenced  the  whole  town.” 


2.  The  Dispensary  is  our  widest  opportunity.  Here 
the  people  come  in  crowds.  For  the  first  twelve  years  we 
saw  men  twice  a week  and  women  twice,  the  other  two 
days  being  reserved  for  operating.  By  the  summer  of 
1894,  the  beginning  of  the  Ghino -Japanese  war,  we  had 
sometimes  two  hundred  patients  in  a forenoon.  After 
that  war  there  was  a separate  women’s  hospital  under 
lady  doctors,  and  we  began  to  see  patients  four  days  a 
week.  In  the  summer  of  1913  we  have  had  over  four 


PROGRESS,  1883-1894 


79 


hundred  men  in  a forenoon,  besides  the  three  hundred  at 
the  women’s  dispensary. 

These  patients  begin  to  gather  at  an  early  hour,  especi- 
ally in  summer,  and  preaching  goes  on  all  morning  in 
the  waiting-room.  Some  who  have  time  at  their  disposal 
remain  to  hear  more  after  being  examined  and  prescribed 
for.  Much  of  what  is  said  there  is  but  seed  by  the  way- 
side,  but  now  and  again  there  is  a little  “ good  ground  ” 
too.  A man  who  has  begun  to  listen  because  he  had 
nothing  better  to  do  while  waiting,  may  go  on  to  inquire, 
because  “ the  words  are  good.”  And  on  the  hearts  of 
many  who  go  their  way  apparently  untouched,  an 
impression  is  made,  so  that  when,  perhaps  years  after- 
wards, Christianity  once  more  comes  near  them,  they 
receive  it  with  gladness.  Some  buy  books  and  tracts,  and 
these  find  their  way  to  distant  homes  where  a missionary 
has  never  been  seen. 

3.  Both  itinerating  and  dispensary  lead  up  to  the 
Hospital  where  our  best  work  is  done,  both  medically 
and  spiritually.  There  we  can  see  that  our  drugs  are 
properly  used,  and  watch  their  effect ; we  can  operate,  and 
dress  the  wound  as  often  as  we  wish  ; we  can  find  out 
our  patient’s  real  standpoint,  talk  over  his  difficulties, 
answer  his  objections  ; and,  what  tells  perhaps  more  than 
anything  else,  we  can  show  him  day  by  day  Christianity 
in  action.  Attendance  at  religious  services  is  purely 
optional,  but  the  majority  of  the  patients  come  gladly, 
the  hymn-singing  being  a great  attraction.  We  have 
always  employed  a hospital  evangelist,  for  some  two  years, 
to  preach  to  the  out-patients,  conduct  the  services, 
instruct  all  who  care  to  listen,  and  follow  up  “ inquirers  ” 
who  have  left  the  hospital.  But  this  work  has  never  been 
left  to  the  evangelists  alone.  Doctors,  assistants,  dis- 
pensers, all  do  their  part,  and  many  is  the  man  to-day 
an  intelligent  member  of  the  Christian  Church,  who  heard 
of  Christ  first  in  the  wards  of  the  hospital. 


80 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


The  opening  of  the  New  Hospital  in  1887  gave  us  much 
more  scope  than  we  previously  had,  and  the  roomy  out- 
patient department  caused  our  numbers  rapidly  to  increase. 
In  the  early  days  patients  used  frequently  to  be  baptized 
from  the  hospital,  so  that  we  could  reckon  in  numbers  the 
additions  to  the  Church  which  were  the  direct  fruit  of 
our  work.  During  four  years  fifty-four  patients  were 
baptized.  Later  on  a new  arrangement  was  made.  The 
Church  had  greatly  extended,  persecution  had  in  large 
measure  died  out,  and  it  was  feared  that  some  might 
enter  it  from  gratitude  without  realizing  what  was 
implied.  So  it  was  agreed  that,  unless  under  exceptional 
circumstances,  no  man  should  be  baptized  until  after 
three  months’  probation,  changed  some  years  later  to 
nine  months.  Thus  our  patients  are  not  reckoned  as 
hospital  converts,  but  each  man  in  his  own  home  enters 
the  Church  like  anyone  else  ; and  we  can  have  no  idea 
of  how  many  are  brought  in  through  the  Medical  Mission. 
We  are  chary  of  being  over-confident  of  any  man  whom 
time  has  not  proved,  for  sometimes  those  of  whom  we 
are  most  hopeful  fall  back  sadly.  There  is  one  instance 
of  a whole  village  becoming  practically  Christian  through 
the  influence  of  an  ex-patient,  who  himself  afterwards 
returned  to  opium-smoking  and  other  evils. 

4.  Training  Assistants. — In  opening  medical  work, 
the  first  difficulty  that  arises  is  that  no  intelligent  assist- 
ance can  be  had.  The  doctor  sees  the  patient,  writes  the 
prescription,  makes  up  the  medicine,  performs  the 
operation,  and  does  all  the  dressings.  The  beginnings 
of  medical  education  in  China  have  been  therefore  in 
scattered  hospitals,  where  the  force  of  necessity  has 
compelled  the  practical  training  of  men  more  or  less 
suitable. 

To  begin  with,  I engaged  a man  called  Hung  as  my 
Chinese  teacher.  He  had  entered  the  Church  a few  years 
before,  but,  though  a good  Chinese  scholar,  was  in  the 


PROGRESS,  1883-1894 


81 


utmost  poverty,  earning  a miserable  pittance  by  drawing 
pictures.  After  a few  months  I began  to  teach  him  the 
English,  or  rather  the  Latin,  names  of  drugs,  and  how  to 
make  them  up.  He  soon  became  very  useful,  and  was 
afterwards  head  dispenser. 

Wei,  who  became  my  chief  assistant,  was  a young  man 
of  a very  different  stamp.  His  family  were  well-to-do 
farmers,  he  had  received  a good  education,  and  had  been 
employed  for  some  years  in  a large  drug  shop  in  Moukden. 
From  boyhood  his  mind  had  a religious  bent,  and  at  one 
time  he  wished  to  become  a Buddhist  recluse,  so  when 
Christianity  was  brought  before  him  he  accepted  it 
readily.  It  was  the  custom  that  at  certain  seasons  two 
of  the  shop  assistants  should  go  to  the  temple  of  the  god 
of  medicine  to  worship  and  present  offerings.  Shortly 
before  our  arrival  in  Moukden  it  had  come  to  WeVs  turn 
to  go,  and  he  refused,  with  the  result  that  he  was  sum- 
marily dismissed.  It  was  impossible  for  him  to  get  a 
similar  situation,  his  family  were  very  angry  and  would 
not  help  him,  so  he  was  glad  to  accept  the  post  of  assistant, 
though  the  salary  was  but  small.  He  proved  a most 
faithful  and  capable  helper,  making  it  possible  for  me 
to  do  twice  the  wrork  otherwise  possible.  These  two  men 
I taught  together,  taking  them  gradually  through  a 
systematic  course. 

It  is  obvious  that  it  cannot  be  very  satisfactory  for  one 
medical  man  to  see  out-patients,  run  a large  hospital, 
superintend  the  evangelistic  work,  see  patients  in  their 
homes,  pay  visits  to  officials,  and  at  the  same  time  give 
students  regular  tuition.  This,  however,  is  what  had  to 
be  done  for  many  years.  One  of  the  drawbacks  of  the 
system  was  the  impossibility  of  binding  these  students 
to  stay  long  enough  for  a satisfactory  training.  Again 
and  again  a man  who  seemed  just  what  we  wTanted  left 
us  as  soon  as  he  had  learned  a little,  and  set  up  for  himself 
a foreign  medicine  shop,  professing  to  understand  the 
healing  art.  When  the  new  hospital  was  opened  we  took 


82 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


in  four  students.  Within  a year  two  left,  and  the  others, 
after  having  much  time  and  trouble  expended  on  them, 
had  to  be  dismissed  later  on. 

Hung  too  failed  us,  after  ten  years’  useful  work.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Bishop  in  Moukden  offered  him  a large 
salary,  twice  what  he  was  getting,  if  he  would  go  to  them 
and  be  their  doctor.  He  need  not  become  a Catholic, 
he  was  told,  but  he  would  have  a free  house  among  them. 
He  went,  and  before  long  found  it  advisable  to  turn 
Catholic.  A few  years  later  he  died  of  cholera.  It  is 
interesting  to  note  that  his  son,  who  in  his  baby  days 
used  to  visit  his  father  in  the  hospital,  and  boast  that  he 
was  going  to  be  a doctor,  is  now  a student  in  our  Medical 
College. 

At  the  beginning  of  1892  we  again  made  known  that 
we  would  receive  and  train  Christian  young  men  as 
medical  evangelists,  and  eight  were  enrolled  for  a five 
years’  course  of  study.  It  was  impossible  to  devote  to 
their  training  as  much  time  as  was  desirable,  but  they 
had  regular  lectures  and  clinical  instruction  all  the  year, 
they  dispensed  all  the  medicines,  and  each  had  charge  of 
a ward  where  he  did  all  the  dressing  as  well  as  a good  deal 
of  what  is  done  by  nurses  in  our  home  hospitals.  Some 
of  these  men  proved  the  most  satisfactory  and  useful  we 
have  had.  So  things  stood  when  the  Japanese  war  broke 
in  upon  our  work. 


X 


SIDE-LIGHTS  ON  THE  BEGINNINGS  OF  A WAR 

1894 

“ They  now  to  fight  are  gone, 

Armour  on  armour  shone. 

Drum  now  to  drum  did  groan. 

To  hear  was  wonder  ; 

That  with  the  cries  they  make 
The  very  earth  did  shake. 

Trumpet  to  trumpet  spake. 

Thunder  to  thunder.” 

“ Agincourt  ” — Michael  Drayton. 


THE  only  foreign  figure  commonly  seen  in  Moukden 
long  ago  was  that  of  the  Korean.  His  curious  tall 
hat  was  a conspicuous  object,  especially  when  a Korean 
embassy  passed  on  its  way  to  present  tribute  to  the 
Suzerain,  the  Emperor  of  China.  Everyone  knew  and 
despised  the  Koreans,  and  most  peaple  in  the  towns  had 
also  some  idea  that  there  was  another  country  beyond 
Korea  called  Japan,  inhabited  by  a race  of  dwarfs,  who, 
of  course,  must  also  be  under  the  suzerainty  of  the 
4 4 Son  of  Heaven.”  Even  this  inaccurate  knowledge  had 
not  filtered  through  to  the  remote  country  districts,  and 
in  any  case  countries  were  hardly  worth  reckoning  which 
were  outside  the  44  Middle  Kingdom.”  All  outside  coun- 
tries were  supposed  to  be  much  the  same,  though  divided 
up  into  many  petty  States,  such  as  France,  Great  Britain, 
and  Russia. 

When  therefore  in  1884  there  was  war  with  France  in 
the  south,  it  was  only  known  in  Moukden  that  China  was 


83 


84 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ fighting  the  foreigners,”  and  for  some  months  our 
position  here  was  precarious.  Similarly  in  1891,  the 
anti-foreign  riots  on  the  Yang-tze  caused  a wave  of 
excitement,  and  placards  were  again  put  up  calling  for  the 
burning  of  foreign  property  on  a certain  day.  But  the 
excitement  fizzled  out  in  rain,  the  day  was  wet,  and  not 
a man  appeared. 

Popular  knowledge  of  public  events  and  movements 
closely  affecting  China  was  scanty,  vague,  and  inaccurate, 
such  matters  being  regarded  with  indifference  as  con- 
cerning the  officials  only.  The  Korean  border  was  not 
two  hundred  miles  away  from  Moukden,  but  no  one  in 
Manchuria  cared  what  happened  there.  We  foreigners 
read  in  our  weekly  Shanghai  paper  of  plots  and  risings, 
but  few  dreamed  that  these  seemingly  insignificant  dis- 
putes in  an  insignificant  country  were  to  be  the  prelude 
to  the  strife  of  nations  which  was  to  rend  Manchuria 
again  and  again. 

In  the  early  summer  of  1894  a cloud  no  bigger  than  a 
man’s  hand  rose  on  the  eastern  horizon,  and  soon  the 
whole  heavens  were  black.  The  immediate  occasion  of 
the  war  is  of  little  importance.  The  Japanese  had  for 
years  been  preparing  to  assert  themselves,  and  to  get  the 
upper  hand  in  Korea.  We  know  now  that  had  this  occa- 
sion not  served,  another  would  soon  have  been  found. 

Our  first  local  warning  of  the  coming  trouble  was  near 
the  end  of  July,  when  telegraphic  orders  came  from  Peking 
that  our  friend  General  Tso  Pao  Kuei  and  his  entire 
forces  were  to  start  for  Korea  at  once  overland.  His  were 
the  only  real  soldiers  in  Manchuria,  well-trained,  always 
maintained  ready  for  action,  and  accustomed  to  fierce 
fighting  with  brigands.  The  first  companies  left  within 
forty-eight  hours,  and  the  General  himself  with  his  staff  a 
day  later.  He  came  first  to  bid  me  good-bye,  not  with  a 
light  heart.  He  had  trained  his  men  to  the  best  of  his 
knowledge  and  equipped  them  as  well  as  he  could,  and  they 
would  follow  him  to  the  death  ; but  he  knew  how  poor 


SIDE-LIGHTS  ON  A WAR,  1894 


85 


was  his  best  compared  to  the  modern  organization  of  the 
Japanese  army,  and  he  was  fully  aware  of  what  was 
hidden  from  us,  the  lack  of  cohesion  among  the  Chinese 
forces  and  Generals. 

“ This  is  different  from  fighting  brigands,”  he  said. 
“ I am  not  likely  to  return.”  And  he  was  right. 

During  the  following  weeks  many  thousand  troops  of 
a very  different  stamp  were  summoned  from  all  parts  of 
Manchuria,  till  the  road  from  Moukden  to  the  Yalu  River 
was  one  line  of  straggling  soldiers  on  the  march.  Many 
were  raw  recruits,  straight  from  their  farms,  or  sturdy 
beggars  swept  in  from  the  streets,  who  halted  for  a week 
or  two  here  to  be  drilled  before  starting  for  the  front. 
In  a large  barracks  just  behind  the  hospital  we  saw  com- 
pany after  company  “ licked  into  shape.”  Rifles  were 
put  into  the  hands  of  youths  who  had  never  seen  a gun, 
and  there  was  neither  time  nor  teacher  to  instruct  them. 
There  were  not  nearly  sufficient  weapons  of  one  make, 
so  some  companies  had  old  rusty  muzzle -loading  muskets, 
or  ancient  Chinese  matchlocks,  or  even  bows  and  arrows, 
and  many  were  armed  after  the  ancient  fashion  with  a 
short  sword  and  a long  wooden  lance  with  a red  tuft  at 
the  end.  The  chief  thing  these  lancers  practised  was  to 
make  a simultaneous  lunge  forward,  thrusting  out  their 
bristling  lances  and  yelling  “ Dm  ! ” which  means  stab . 
On  asking  why  they  made  so  much  noise,  wTe  learned  that 
it  was  to  frighten  the  enemy. 

It  was  pathetic  to  see  these  poor  deluded  fellows  pre- 
paring to  be  mown  down  by  modern  fire.  When  their 
short  training  was  over,  they  marched  cheerfully  to  their 
doom,  clad  in  the  gay  unserviceable  soldiers’  garb,  bright 
red  jacket  with  large  round  target  on  chest  and  back, 
every  tenth  man  carrying  a pole  with  a streaming  red 
flag.  The  general  view  of  the  coming  war  was  that  the 
Japanese  had  presumed  to  rebel,  and  of  course  China 
must  crush  them — an  easy  task. 

A great  number  of  the  soldiers  came  from  the  extreme 


86 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


north  for  the  first  time  in  their  lives.  Many  were  Manchu 
reservists  who  had  always  drawn  pay  but  never  done 
work.  All  the  Manchus,  reservists  or  inactive  regiments, 
were  bigotedly  and  blindly  anti-foreign,  recognizing  no 
difference  between  the  foreigners  they  were  to  fight, 
against  whom  their  passions  were  roused  by  tales  true 
and  false,  and  any  others  they  might  chance  to  encounter. 
They  even  looked  on  the  Chinese  with  scorn,  and  regarded 
them  as  their  natural  prey.  At  first  the  passing  of  a 
company  with  their  strange  fire-arms  or  gay  flags  drew 
all  the  women  and  children  out  to  see  ; for  General  Tso’s 
men  were  allowed  no  looting  nor  licence,  the  shooting  of 
a few  offenders  stopped  that  at  the  outset.  But  within  a 
few  weeks  the  villages  on  the  line  of  march  were  deserted, 
the  women  and  children  and  all  animals  which  had  not 
been  seized  having  gone  into  hiding,  and  little  work  was 
being  done  on  the  fields.  The  large  inns  were  forcibly 
kept  open  by  the  soldiers. 

“ They  have  devoured  all  my  grain,”  moaned  one  poor 
innkeeper,  “ they  have  burned  all  my  fuel,  they  have 
smashed  all  my  dishes,  they  have  ruined  my  house  ; and 
now  when  I show  them  my  empty  hands,  and  say  I have 
nothing  to  give  them,  they  beat  me  ! ” 

“ The  Chinese  soldiers  are  not  so  bad,”  people  would 
say  under  their  breath,  “it  is  those  awful  Manchus!” 
One  natural  retribution  quickly  fell  on  them  : before 
long  we  heard  that  the  soldiers  en  route  were  suffering 
from  lack  of  food. 

There  was  one  special  regiment  of  Manchus  who  were 
turbulent  and  fierce  beyond  their  fellows.  On  their  way 
definitely  “ to  kill  foreigners,”  they  were  ready  for  any- 
thing. In  Moukden  some  of  them  began  to  make  trouble. 
Most  of  the  shopkeepers  shut  their  shops  and  put  up  their 
shutters,  and  the  soldiers  began  to  threaten  the  Tartar- 
General  and  his  guard.  It  looked  for  a time  as  if  there 
would  be  fighting,  but  their  officers  managed  to  pacify 
them,  and  to  withdraw  them  from  the  city  to  a camp 


large  round  target  on 


SIDE-LIGHTS  ON  A WAR,  1894 


87 


outside.  A friendly  official  told  me  afterwards  that  a 
Manchu  official  of  high  rank  had  said  to  him  at  that  time  : 
“ Why  do  we  delay  till  we  get  to  Korea  ? Are  there  not 
some  of  these  foreigners  in  this  city  ? Let  us  kill  them 
at  once.” 

Meantime  a large  company  of  the  same  regiment  had 
reached  Liaoyang,  a city  forty -five  miles  to  the  south. 
It  was  a hot  afternoon,  Friday,  10  August.  Bands  of 
these  men  were  roaming  about  the  streets,  terrorizing  the 
shopkeepers  and  helping  themselves  to  whatever  they 
fancied.  Some  of  them  saw  a preaching-chapel,  and  with 
venomous  glee  they  set  themselves  to  wreck  it  com- 
pletely, after  beating  those  who  were  there.  A man  ran 
to  tell  the  missionary  in  charge,  Rev.  James  Wylie,  who 
lived  in  a Chinese  house  not  far  off.  Mr.  Wylie  at  once 
started  on  foot  for  the  yamen  a little  distance  away,  to 
ask  the  mandarin,  who  was  very  friendly,  to  take  steps 
to  stop  the  rioting.  Unfortunately  he  encountered  a 
band  of  the  marauders  who  had  just  raised  the  cry  to 
look  for  the  foreigners’  houses  and  kill  them  all.  With  a 
yell  of  bloodthirsty  triumph  they  fell  upon  him,  and 
before  long  he  was  left  for  dead  on  the  street,  battered 
and  gashed  with  many  blows  and  wounds. 

This  had,  however,  diverted  the  murderers  from  their 
purpose  of  finding  the  other  foreigners.  The  magistrate 
having  heard  that  there  was  a serious  disturbance  came 
out  in  his  official  chair  with  a guard  to  quell  it.  Caring 
nothing  for  mere  Chinese  authority,  the  soldiers  turned 
on  him,  smashed  his  chair,  beat  his  men,  and  he  escaped 
for  his  life  on  foot  in  the  gathering  dusk.  Darkness 
prevented  further  outrages  ; the  Manchus  returned  to 
their  camp  outside  the  city,  and  the  gates  were  closed. 
Mr.  Wylie  was  fearfully  injured  and  quite  unconscious. 
Sorrowing  Chinese  carried  him  before  dark  to  the  doctor’s 
house  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  where  he  lay  for  six 
days  and  then  died. 

In  Moukden  we  heard  vaguely  from  officials  the  news 


88 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


of  the  disturbance  the  day  after  it  occurred  ; then  letters 
came  with  details,  and  a mounted  messenger  summoned 
me  down  for  consultation.  It  was  the  end  of  the  rainy 
season,  the  roads  were  flooded  and  cart-travelling  quite 
impossible,  so  that  the  natural  course  was  to  go  on  horse- 
back. But  I was  suffering  severely  at  the  time  from  an 
injury  to  my  foot,  and  was  compelled  to  hire  a sedan 
chair. 

It  was  well  that  this  was  so,  for  I had  to  pass 
through  the  midst  of  the  very  men  who  had  threatened 
the  Tartar-General  a few  days  before,  and  they  had 
heard  of  the  success  of  their  comrades  in  killing  a foreigner 
in  Liaoyang.  I drew  the  curtains  of  my  chair  completely, 
and  they  thought  it  was  occupied  by  a high  official.  The 
chair-bearers,  in  mortal  terror,  were  only  too  glad  to 
encourage  this  idea,  and  so  we  passed  them.  But  imme- 
diately afterwards  we  came  to  a river  which  must  be 
crossed  by  ferry,  and  I had  to  leave  the  chair.  The  boat 
had  just  pushed  off  from  the  bank  when  a soldier  caught 
sight  of  me  and  raised  the  cry : “A  foreigner  ! Kill ! 
Kill ! ” The  boatmen,  greatly  alarmed,  poled  with  all 
their  might.  Several  guns  were  raised  to  shoot,  but  an 
officer  evidently  remonstrated.  This  gave  us  time  to 
reach  the  other  side,  where  we  were  quickly  out  of  sight 
behind  the  banks.  Unfortunately  I arrived  too  late  to 
see  Mr.  Wylie  alive. 

During  the  following  weeks  foreigners  all  over  the 
province  kept  as  quiet  and  unconspicuous  as  possible. 
No  one  attempted  to  go  a journey,  and  in  Moukden  we 
confined  ourselves  to  the  district  round  our  houses  where 
we  were  well  known.  A few  days  after  Mr.  Wylie’s  death 
an  Imperial  Proclamation  for  the  protection  of  foreigners 
was  posted  on  all  the  city  gates  and  scattered  throughout 
the  country. 

About  the  same  time  a prominent  Manchu  official  of 
the  Imperial  Clan,  who  had  been  cured  of  a dangerous 
disease  a few  months  before,  presented  to  the  hospital  a 


SIDE-LIGHTS  ON  A WAR,  1894 


89 


“ tablet  ” as  an  expression  of  his  gratitude.  It  came  at 
a most  opportune  time.  The  large  black  board,  with  its 
glittering  gold  characters  proclaiming  the  wonderful 
powers  of  the  Healing  Hand,  was  placed  on  a draped  and 
gorgeously  decorated  platform  with  a brilliant  yellow 
canopy,  and  promenaded  through  the  streets  for  a whole 
forenoon,  preceded  by  what  stood  for  a band,  discoursing 
discordant  music  ; so  that  it  was  known  through  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  city.  In  general  we  did  not 
encourage  this  form  of  gratitude,  nor  relish  the  necessity 
for  giving  a substantial  gratuity  to  the  musicians,  but 
on  this  occasion  we  welcomed  it,  and  felt  the  money  well 
spent.  The  same  afternoon  the  official,  as  well  as  his 
wife  and  a large  number  of  friends  and  attendants,  called, 
a company  of  mounted  soldiers  escorting  them.  The 
lady  suggested  that  I might  act  as  mediator  between 
Japan  and  China  ! 

Next  day  Lady  Tso,  the  wife  of  the  General,  called 
with  their  five  children.  She  had  heard  that  we  were 
leaving  Moukden  and  came  to  say  good-bye.  She  was 
in  very  good  spirits,  having  that  morning  received  a 
telegram  that  her  husband  was  quite  safe.  The  publicity 
of  these  marks  of  official  friendliness  was  of  great  value 
to  us,  especially  in  the  eyes  of  the  army. 

The  common  people  were  now  quite  friendly,  as  there 
was  hardly  a lane  in  Moukden  without  an  old  patient. 
The  medical  work  went  on  as  usual,  though  country 
people  were  few  in  number.  In  their  stead  we  had  soldiers 
by  the  dozen.  Those  in  camp  behind  us  were  our  very 
good  friends,  and  sometimes  twenty  at  a time  would 
come  for  treatment.  It  was  arranged  that  all  soldiers 
should  be  seen  at  once  when  they  came,  without  awaiting 
their  turn,  and  this  pleased  them  greatly.  The  people 
were  looking  forward  to  the  winter  with  much  appre- 
hension, because  of  the  many  soldiers  on  the  march  in 
some  districts,  and  the  great  increase  of  brigands  in  others 
pwing  to  the  withdrawal  of  General  Tso’s  troops.  Every- 


90 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


one  assumed  as  a matter  of  course  that  the  Chinese  would 
be  victorious,  but  General  Tso  had  sent  for  his  men’s 
winter  clothing,  and  that  meant  delay.  Defeat  was 
unthinkable  at  the  hands  of  an  insignificant  people  like 
Japan. 


XI 


GRIM  REALITY  : THE  CHINO -JAPANESE  WAR 


“ The  giant  shades  of  fate,  silently  flitting. 

Pile  the  dim  outline  of  the  coming  doom.” 

“ Pauline  ” — Robert  Browning. 


INTO  the  midst  of  the  bright  harvest  weather  of 
September  came  a whisper  of  a crushing  Chinese 
defeat  in  North  Korea,  where  General  Tso  had  gone.  At 
first  no  one  cared  to  believe  it,  but  soon  it  took  definite 
and  even  exaggerated  shape.  The  Chinese  army  was 
defeated  and  scattered,  perhaps  annihilated,  General  Tso 
was  killed,  the  Japanese  were  advancing  on  Manchuria. 
The  consternation  of  the  Moukden  officials  was  complete, 
for  the  impossible  had  happened,  and  what  would  come 
next  ? 

And  yet  it  was  easily  explained.  The  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  Chinese  forces  at  the  front  had  for  weeks  been 
sending  false  news  to  Peking  of  victories  over  the  Japanese, 
and  had  received  rewards  and  honours,  while  in  reality  he 
was  neither  fighting  nor  making  any  preparations  for  the 
inevitable  battle.  Many  of  the  Chinese  officers  were 
lingering  on  the  Manchurian  side  of  the  Yalu,  while  part 
of  their  regiments  went  to  the  front.  Most  of  the  Generals 
hated  and  mistrusted  the  Commander  and  each  other  ; 
those  from  the  metropolitan  province  looked  down  on 
those  from  Manchuria  ; Manchus  would  have  no  dealings 
with  Chinese  ; everyone  seemed  fighting  for  his  own 
hand. 

General  Tso  drew  out  a plan  of  campaign  specially  for 

91 


92 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  defence  of  Ping-yang,  a city  which  was  considered 
the  key  to  the  situation.  In  spite  of  jealousies  the  plan 
was  agreed  to,  but  at  the  critical  moment  the  Commander- 
in-Chief  and  other  Generals  withdrew  their  men  from 
Ping -yang.  Part  of  the  army  engaged  the  Japanese 
outside  the  city,  but  without  any  co-operation  with 
General  Tso,  who  was  left  to  defend  the  citadel  alone, 
with  inadequate  forces.  During  the  battle  thousands  of 
Chinese  and  Manchu  soldiers  were  within  reach,  but  were 
restrained  from  striking  a blow.  When  it  was  evident 
that  a Japanese  victory  was  likely,  all  these  Generals  and 
their  men  retired  as  speedily  as  possible,  some  to  a town 
on  the  Korean  bank  of  the  Yalu,  others  across  the  river 
into  Manchuria,  where  they  seemed  to  think  no  Japanese 
could  follow. 

In  Ping-yang  General  Tso  made  a spirited  defence, 
though  outnumbered  many  times,  and  his  men  were 
confident  that  if  he  had  lived  they  would  have  held  the 
city.  The  battle  lasted  the  most  part  of  three  days,  the 
Japanese  occupying  the  surrounding  hills  and  woods,  and 
bombarding  the  fortifications.  In  the  afternoon  of  the 
15th,  General  Tso  was  directing  the  fire  of  one  of  his 
heaviest  guns  when  the  gunner  was  killed  at  his  side. 
The  General,  who  had  already  received  several  wounds, 
stepped  forward  and  fired  the  charge  himself,  but  at  the 
same  moment  fell  shot  in  the  leg.  Binding  the  wound 
hastily  with  a piece  of  cloth,  he  got  up  and  urged  his  men 
to  greater  efforts,  but  as  he  was  shouting  to  them  another 
bullet  struck  him,  and  he  fell  mortally  wounded.  Some 
of  his  men  were  placing  him  on  horseback  to  attempt  to 
escape,  when  a shell  fell  among  them,  killing  all  except 
one,  a cavalry  captain,  who  told  me  the  story.  He  was 
stunned,  and  when  he  came  to  himself  the  day  was  lost, 
the  Japanese  were  in  the  city.  One  more  effort  was  made 
to  carry  away  the  dead  General’s  body,  but  a party  of  the 
enemy  advanced,  and  the  men  had  to  abandon  it  and 
flee.  The  Japanese  recognized  in  General  Tso  a foeman 


GRIM  REALITY:  CHINO -JAPANESE  WAR  93 


worthy  of  their  steel,  buried  him  with  military  honours, 
and  erected  a monument  over  his  grave. 

On  the  death  of  their  General  the  Chinese  resistance 
ceased.  Under  heavy  fire,  the  cavalry  escaped  as  best 
they  could  through  the  Japanese  infantry  fines,  cowering 
down  on  their  horses  and  galloping  full  speed.  The 
captain  who  had  been  with  the  General  at  the  last  took 
part  in  this  wild  charge.  A bullet  passed  through  his 
right  knee  and  killed  his  horse,  but  after  lying  still  for  a 
little  he  succeeded  in  mounting  a riderless  steed  and 
escaped.  Another  young  fellow,  aide-de-camp  to  the 
General,  told  me  that  the  bullet  which  passed  through  his 
lung  entered  the  head  of  a companion  in  front,  killing 
him  on  the  spot.  The  wounded  man  galloped  on  till  his 
horse  was  shot  under  him.  Then  he  just  managed  to 
crawl  in  among  some  long  grass,  when  he  lost  conscious- 
ness. When  he  awoke  it  was  dark,  and  he  pressed  on 
until  early  in  the  morning  he  reached  a Chinese  camp  on 
the  retreat.  About  a fortnight  later  he  came  to  the 
Moukden  hospital,  where  he  made  a rapid  recovery.  He 
and  other  Chinese  soldiers  frequently  spoke  of  the  silence 
of  the  Japanese  army  in  battle,  contrasted  with  their  own 
men,  who  all  shouted  at  once. 

“ They  fight  as  if  they  were  at  drill,”  said  one. 

There  was  great  mourning  and  fear  in  Moukden  when 
it  was  known  that  our  good  General  was  dead,  the  one 
man  who  could  protect  Manchuria.  High  and  low  united 
in  respect  and  love  for  him,  and  for  us  it  was  the  loss  of 
a personal  friend.  His  memory  is  still  cherished  affec- 
tionately, and  no  other  General  has  ever  arisen  to  fill  his 
place  in  the  popular  mind. 

A good  many  men  wounded  in  Ping-yang  were  received 
into  our  hospital,  the  Governor-General  having  repeated 
the  orders  of  General  Tso  that  all  wounded  were  to  be 
brought  straight  to  us.  The  great  majority  of  the  injured, 
however,  lay  helpless  in  the  Chinese  frontier  towns, 
where  nothing  could  be  done  for  their  relief. 


94 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Just  about  this  time  an  unfortunate  episode  caused  us 
much  anxiety.  During  the  summer  the  agent  of  a 
German  firm  had  been  in  Manchuria  selling  guns  to  the 
Governors  of  the  Three  Provinces.  He  returned  to 
Moukden  from  the  north  just  when  the  news  of  the 
General’s  death  and  the  great  defeat  was  causing  much 
excitement.  This,  the  violent  death  of  Mr.  Wylie  a few 
weeks  before,  and  probably  also  business  worries,  seem 
to  have  preyed  upon  his  mind  and  upset  his  reason.  I 
was  called  out  of  the  Chinese  church  one  Sunday  to  go 
to  him  in  an  inn,  where  he  had  tried  to  commit  suicide  by 
cutting  his  arm  with  a razor.  His  Chinese  servant  had 
bound  it  up  and  sent  for  me,  and  was  watching  over  him. 
He  had  not  slept  for  four  or  five  nights  and  was  in  terrible 
excitement  and  fear,  suffering  from  delusional  insanity. 
I at  once  brought  him  over  to  our  house,  and  we  arranged 
a room  for  him  in  the  hospital. 

Under  sedatives  his  excitement  gradually  passed  away, 
but  the  delusions  continued  and  he  was  very  difficult  to 
manage.  He  believed  that  he  was  a spy,  who  had  in  some 
way  done  great  harm  to  the  Chinese,  and  that  very  soon 
he  was  to  be  taken  to  the  execution  ground  and  killed, 
and  with  him  all  who  helped  him.  The  slightest  noise 
of  footsteps  made  him  tremble.  “ They  have  come  to 
take  me  ! ” he  would  say.  There  was  imminent  risk 
that  he  might  attack  someone  or  kill  himself,  and  in  the 
excited  condition  of  the  public  mind,  this  was  a general 
even  more  than  a personal  danger.  For  some  days  he 
had  to  be  watched  constantly,  the  various  members  of 
our  little  missionary  circle  taking  it  in  turn  to  try  to 
converse  with  him,  take  him  short  walks,  and  divert  his 
mind.  To  our  great  relief  he  gradually  calmed  down 
sufficiently  to  be  sent  off  by  boat  to  Newchwang,  and 
afterwards  he  returned  to  Germany. 

As  days  passed  by  and  no  reliable  news  of  a Chinese 
victory  came  to  reassure  the  public  mind,  the  excitement 
and  fear  in  Moukden  were  great.  In  vain  were  false 


GRIM  REALITY  : CHINO -JAPANESE  WAR  95 


reports  of  victory  circulated  to  allay  the  alarm.  The 
trouble  grew  and  stirred,  and  the  wildest  rumours  were 
circulated.  It  was  said  that  two  hundred  British  soldiers 
were  concealed  in  our  hospital  compound,  or,  according 
to  some,  in  the  tower  of  the  church.  Some  officers  called 
on  my  assistant  to  find  out  if  this  was  true,  and  he 
showed  them  all  over  the  premises  to  see  for  themselves. 
The  better-class  inhabitants  began  to  leave  in  large 
numbers,  some  by  the  long  overland  route  through  the 
Great  Wall  into  China  proper,  others  by  boat  to  New- 
chwang,  there  to  find  steamers  or  junks. 

The  question  was  now  raised  whether  it  was  wise  for 
foreigners  to  remain  in  Moukden.  We  were  most  un- 
willing to  leave  unless  it  should  be  absolutely  necessary, 
and  were  we  all  to  go  at  once  it  would  likely  cause  a 
panic,  for  the  people  watched  us  closely,  knowing  that  we 
had  more  reliable  news  than  they.  On  the  other  hand, 
travelling  by  road  to  Newchwang  was  impossible,  boats 
are  docked  for  the  winter  early  in  November,  and  after 
that  retreat  would  be  cut  off.  Finally  it  was  decided 
that  ladies,  children,  and  most  of  the  men  should  at  once 
begin  to  leave  in  detachments,  taking  with  them  valuables 
and  necessaries  for  the  winter.  All  Moukden  was  pre- 
paring to  take  refuge  in  the  northern  and  eastern  hills, 
and  if  once  the  exodus  began,  carts  to  the  river  would 
be  unobtainable.  Our  colleagues  in  Liaoyang  had  already 
left,  that  city  continuing  in  a very  disturbed  condition, 
and  missionaries  from  the  north  also  were  all  on  their  way 
down. 

Our  medical  work  now  diminished  rapidly ; the 
women’s  hospital  was  empty,  the  men’s  not  half  full. 
The  Governor-General  again  issued  a proclamation 
commending  us,  and  the  rumours  died  down  for  a time, 
but  it  was  only  the  lull  before  the  storm.  On  the  evening 
of  25  October  I called  on  an  official  friend  named  Gao, 
the  son  of  my  old  friend  the  Tao-tai,  already  mentioned. 
From  him  I heard  privately  that  a telegram  had  just 


96 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


arrived,  that  the  Japanese  had  crossed  the  Yalu  by  night, 
that  the  Chinese  had  been  defeated  in  a battle  on  Man- 
churian soil,  and  were  driven  from  the  chief  fortified  city 
of  that  region,  and  that  the  Japanese  were  marching  on 
F eng -huang -cheng , the  ancient  Phoenix  city.  He  advised 
strongly  that  the  two  of  us  who  still  remained  should  go 
to  Newchwang  without  delay,  as  the  Chinese  army  was 
quite  unable  to  stay  the  advance  of  the  Japanese,  and 
there  would  soon  be  in  Moukden  a rabble  of  retreating 
soldiers  whom  no  one  could  control. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th  the  news  of  defeat  became 
known,  and  the  city  was  in  excitement  bordering  on 
panic,  so  we  delayed  no  longer.  Reliable  men  were  left 
in  charge  both  in  the  church  and  in  the  hospital,  and  our 
assistants  felt  safer  without  our  presence.  There  was 
also  a watchman  for  each  house,  but  we  felt  it  likely  that 
they  would  be  looted  if  not  burned  before  we  could 
return.  With  some  difficulty  we  got  carts  to  take  us  to 
the  river,  where  few  boats  were  now  to  be  seen.  Had  we 
waited  much  longer  we  should  have  been  shut  in  for  the 
winter. 

It  was  not  only  in  Moukden  that  people  were  fleeing  in 
hundreds  from  the  impending  trouble.  When  we  reached 
Newchwang  we  found  that  junks  and  steamers  were  all 
crowded  with  refugees.  Soon  the  junks  ceased,  and 
steamers  became  few.  One  day  the  last  steamer  on  the 
river,  when  about  to  leave,  was  besieged  by  a struggling 
crowd  of  native  boats.  The  passenger  accommodation 
was  already  full,  but  the  determined  travellers  swarmed 
up  ropes  and  boathooks  and  crowded  the  decks,  the  roofs 
of  the  deckhouses,  even  the  masts  and  rigging,  to  the 
number  of  about  three  thousand,  until  bluejackets  from 
the  foreign  gunboats  forced  them  back  to  their  boats. 

The  Japanese  were  steadily  advancing  and  occupying 
one  town  after  another — Port  Arthur,  Kaichow,  Haicheng. 
Some  towns  and  villages  were  destroyed,  scores  of  inno- 
cent people  being  killed,  and  hundreds  left  homeless  at 


GRIM  REALITY:  CHINO-JAPANESE  WAR  97 


the  beginning  of  the  rigorous  winter.  In  other  cases, 
Haicheng  for  instance,  the  battle  was  fought  at  some 
distance,  and  the  Chinese  army  fled  to  re-form  again  to 
the  north  or  west,  leaving  the  city  unprotected.  The 
civil  magistrate  of  Haicheng  quietly  withdrew  next  day 
after  opening  the  two  city  gates  on  the  Japanese  side,  and 
they  entered  without  firing  a shot.  But  this  official  was, 
according  to  law,  degraded  for  not  preventing  the 
Japanese  entrance.  My  friend  Gao,  who  had  warned  us 
to  leave  Moukden,  was  appointed  magistrate  of  Kaichow. 
He  knew  the  Japanese  would  take  the  city  and  that  he 
would  have  no  soldiers  to  defend  it,  so  he  feigned  illness, 
and  asked  for  two  months’  leave  of  absence  before  taking 
up  his  appointment.  He  too  was  afterwards  degraded, 
as  if  he  had  deliberately  given  up  his  city  to  the  enemy, 
and  he  never  received  another  appointment. 

All  through  the  war  couriers  continued  to  make  their 
way  between  the  principal  cities,  so  that  we  kept  in  touch 
with  Moukden.  Each  fresh  tidings  of  defeat  caused 
panic  there.  Half  the  population  fled,  household  property 
was  sold  for  a song,  the  military  were  occupying  the  city 
in  thousands,  and  large  stretches  of  country  were  over- 
run with  marauding  soldiers.  Rewards  were  offered  for 
the  capture  of  any  who  helped  the  enemy,  and  innocent 
men  were  constantly  seized  and  executed.  Villages  were 
deserted,  those  who  could  not  flee  north  digging  pits 
in  the  hillsides,  where  were  concealed  the  women  and 
children  and  all  movable  property.  Many  who  tried  to 
flee  were  waylaid  by  robbers,  deserters  from  the  army, 
their  carts  seized,  the  men  killed,  the  women  and  children 
carried  off.  The  dumb  suffering  of  the  country  people 
as  that  winter  dragged  on  will  never  be  known. 

To  us  in  Newchwang  the  fighting  drew  ever  nearer, 
until  one  beautiful  peaceful  winter  Sunday  a new  sound 
came  into  our  ears,  never  again  to  be  forgotten.  The  sky 
was  intense  blue,  the  sunshine  radiant,  mere  living  seemed 
good  and  evil  non-existent,  when  from  the  unseen 


98 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


distance  across  the  plain  there  came,  low  but  distinct, 
a dull  insistent  booming,  the  sound  of  cannon  fired  to  kill. 
It  seemed  as  if  clouds  ought  to  veil  the  sun,  the  blue  should 
change  to  grey,  but  all  day  it  continued — the  pitiless 
blue,  the  mocking  sunshine,  the  relentless  hollow  roar 
which  announced  that  moment  by  moment  our  fellow- 
men  were  being  mangled  and  torn.  Since  then  we  have 
become  accustomed  to  it.  There  were  other  battles  much 
nearer  to  Newchwang,  we  were  wakened  before  dawn  by 
cannon  roar,  our  windows  shook  as  the  shells  screamed 
over  our  heads,  and  in  the  war  ten  years  later  we  lived 
in  Moukden  for  months  with  that  sound  in  our  ears.  But 
nothing  ever  brought  that  sense  of  awe,  that  vivid  realiza- 
tion of  the  incongruity,  the  unhumanness  of  war,  as  did 
that  dull  distant  booming  which  broke  upon  the  Sabbath 
calm. 


XII 


AMONG  THE  WOUNDED 


“ When  the  days  were  torment,  and  the  nights  were  clouded  terror. 
When  the  Powers  of  Darkness  had  dominion  on  our  soul. 

When  we  fled  consuming  through  the  Seven  Hells  of  fever, 

These  put  out  their  hands  to  us,  and  healed  and  made  us  whole.” 

Rudyard  Kipling. 

IN  the  Chinese  army  of  1894-5  no  provision  was  made 
for  the  wounded.  Where  a man  fell,  there  he  lay,  to 
die  of  slow  starvation  or  the  more  merciful  cold.  With 
a temperature  many  degrees  below  zero,  one  night  was 
enough.  If  the  wounded  man  was  fortunate  enough  to 
find  some  place  of  refuge,  or  if  his  comrades  carried  him 
under  shelter,  it  was  often  only  a more  lingering  death, 
for  no  one  could  treat  his  wounds. 

As  the  scene  of  war  drew  nearer  to  Newchwang,  efforts 
were  made  to  establish  a Red  Cross  hospital  there. 
Ambulance  work  was  impossible,  but  with  the  approval 
of  the  Chinese  magistrate  an  inn  was  rented,  put  in  order, 
and  opened  on  3 December.  At  first  the  wounded  came 
by  twos  and  threes,  but  the  news  spread  rapidly  through 
the  army,  the  early  cases  cured  did  much  to  establish 
confidence,  and  the  proportion  of  wounded  who  came 
under  our  care  increased  with  each  fight,  so  that  a second 
inn  had  to  be  rented.  When  a battle  was  fought  in 
January  at  Kaichow,  twenty -five  miles  away,  the  wounded 
continued  to  arrive  for  three  days,  169  being  admitted. 

There  were  fortunately  eight  medical  men  in  New- 
chwang at  this  time.  Dr.  Daly,  the  medical  officer  of  the 
port,  took  general  charge  of  the  Red  Cross  work,  and  its 

99 


100 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


success  was  largely  due  to  his  able  and  energetic  ad- 
ministration. He  was  assisted  by  the  doctors  of  the  two 
gunboats,  American  and  British,  and  five  medical 
missionaries,  and  non-medical  help  was  also  freely  given. 
One  of  my  medical  students  had  come  down  in  November, 
another  got  through  the  lines  later,  and  they  were 
invaluable  all  through.  A Red  Cross  Society  had  been 
formed  in  Shangai,  which  liberally  met  all  expenses. 

Our  “ hospitals  ” were  far  from  satisfactory,  being 
dark  and  dilapidated,  with  low  roofs,  and  crevices  in  their 
mud  walls  through  which  wind  and  snow  found  a ready 
entrance.  Their  sanitary  condition  could  not  have  been 
worse,  and  operations  were  performed  in  small  dark 
rooms  which  no  amount  of  cleaning  could  make  clean. 
Our  medical  supplies  ran  very  low,  communication  with 
the  outer  world  being  practically  cut  off.  We  had  to  use 
native  cotton-wool,  and  the  ladies  helped  by  making 
bandages  and  surgical  dressings. 

On  24  February  a battle  was  known  to  be  going  on 
ten  or  twelve  miles  to  the  east.  Our  hospitals  were  full 
from  previous  fighting,  but  we  emptied  them  of  all  con- 
valescents in  preparation  for  new  arrivals.  This  time  the 
Chinese  General  sent  the  wounded  direct  to  us,  so  that  the 
rush  was  far  beyond  our  anticipation.  It  would  have 
been  still  greater,  but  that  the  temperature  that  night  was 
10°  Fahr.  below  zero,  and  many  died  of  cold.  The  scene  in 
the  hospitals  next  day  was  beyond  description.  The 
compounds  were  crowded  with  farmers’  carts  and  animals 
hired  by  the  officers,  while  many  serious  cases  arrived  in 
improvised  fitters,  baskets,  and  chairs.  Some  were 
already  beyond  our  aid.  Dead  were  lifted  from  the 
carts  as  well  as  living.  One  man  died  at  the  door,  others 
within  an  hour  of  admission.  By  evening  our  two  hospi- 
tals, and  even  every  outhouse,  were  crowded  out.  Early 
next  morning  a third  inn  was  rented,  then  a fourth,  but 
while  these  were  being  put  in  order  the  overcrowding  was 
terrible.  The  hangs  were  packed  with  double  rows  of 


AMONG  THE  WOUNDED 


101 


wounded,  as  close  as  they  could  lie,  and  we  had  to  pick  our 
way  along  the  mud  floors,  stepping  over  the  poor  fellows 
lying  on  heaps  of  straw. 

Every  available  foreigner  was  pressed  into  the  service, 
valuable  assistance  being  rendered  by  the  officers  and  men 
of  the  British  gunboat  “ Firebrand.”  Our  operating- 
rooms  were  busy  from  morning  to  night,  and  in  the  wards 
the  work  of  dressing  was  carried  on  by  Customs  officials, 
pilots,  business  men,  seamen,  and  missionaries. 

While  to  us  the  hospitals  seemed  miserable  dens,  to  the 
men  themselves  they  were  havens  of  rest.  They  had  seen 
comrade  after  comrade  die  on  the  frozen  ground,  or  lie 
groaning  in  some  wretched  hovel  without  medicine, 
comforts,  help,  or  even  sufficient  food.  Here  they  had  a 
warm  hang , kind  attention,  soothing  medicine,  good  food 
if  they  could  eat  it,  and  surgical  aid.  It  did  not  matter 
how  crowded  the  room  was,  nor  how  foul  the  smells,  nor 
how  unskilled  the  nurses,  to  them  the  Red  Cross  hospital 
was  heaven. 

Things  were  gradually  getting  into  order  in  our  inn- 
hospitals,  and  the  patients  being  made  more  comfortable 
day  by  day,  when  on  5 March  the  news  spread  that  the 
Japanese  were  coming.  Old  Newchwang,  thirty  miles 
to  the  north,  had  fallen  the  day  before,  after  an  exception- 
ally fierce  and  bloody  fight,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  Port 
of  Newchwang  would  be  surrounded,  so  the  Chinese  army 
was  being  withdrawn  and  concentrated  at  Tienchuang- 
tai , ten  miles  away  to  our  north-west. 

The  people,  in  great  fear  and  excitement,  made  what 
little  preparations  they  fancied  might  serve  to  conciliate 
the  Japanese.  Here  was  a rough  signboard  with  “ enG- 
LisH  HOusE  ” printed  on  it,  there  in  large  Chinese 
characters  the  words  “ foreign  religion,”  and  many  a 
red  cross  was  painted  on  boards  or  sewn  on  flags.  In  the 
main  street  we  noticed  a very  conspicuous  Red  Cross  flag 
over  what  was  manifestly  an  opium-den.  The  owner 
emphatically  protested  his  right  to  fly  it,  as  he  had  been 


102 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


in  the  service  of  a foreign  doctor  years  before.  It  was 
pathetic  to  see  a little  mud  hut  with  poor  tattered  paper 
windows,  and  some  half -naked  children  huddling  at  the 
door,  to  watch  their  father  put  up  a stick  with  a bit  of 
dirty  cotton  at  the  end,  on  which  were  sewn  some  scraps 
of  red  in  the  rough  form  of  a cross. 

“ What  is  it  for  ? ” we  ask  him. 

“ To  protect  us  when  the  foreigners  come.” 

“ But  what  does  it  mean  ? What  is  the  red  cross 
for  ? ” 

“ Who  knows  ? They  say  foreigners  won’t  touch  you 
if  you  have  that.” 

In  the  Red  Cross  hospital  itself  there  was  little  con- 
fidence in  the  protection  of  the  flag.  Panic  seized  our 
patients.  They  were  convinced  that  the  Japanese  would 
kill  them  all.  In  spite  of  our  assurances  and  entreaties, 
very  many  fled  during  the  night  of  the  5th  and  the 
following  morning.  Fortunately  the  majority  of  these 
had  only  slight  wounds,  or  were  convalescent,  but  a few 
serious  cases  hired  bearers  to  carry  them  on  stretchers. 
Some  of  them  must  have  died  by  the  wTay.  One  man  was 
taken  nearly  ten  miles,  but  hearing  that  the  Japanese 
were  quite  near,  the  bearers  fled,  leaving  him  helpless  by 
the  roadside.  After  six  days  of  agony  and  privation  he 
succeeded  in  getting  back  to  us. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  6th  I went  to  our  hospitals, 
now  half  empty,  to  help  to  pacify  the  terrified  patients 
who  remained,  and  prevent  more  from  going.  We  vacated 
the  two  more  recently  occupied  inns,  concentrating  in  the 
original  two,  and  put  up  very  large  and  conspicuous 
Red  Cross  flags.  Newchwang  was  by  this  time  almost 
clear  of  soldiers,  the  magistrate  and  his  guard  having  fled 
in  the  night  across  the  river  on  the  breaking  ice.  No 
resistance  was  to  be  offered  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Japanese,  who  could  now  from  the  housetops  be  seen 
approaching  the  open  unguarded  gates. 

Leaving  the  hospital  during  the  forenoon,  I made  for 


AMONG  THE  WOUNDED 


103 


my  own  home  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  While 
crossing  a piece  of  open  ground,  I suddenly  heard  the 
sharp  report  of  rifle-fire  quite  near,  and  three  Japanese 
scouts  came  quickly  round  the  corner  of  a house.  In- 
stantly they  levelled  their  guns  at  me.  I stood  still  and 
shouted  to  them,  holding  up  my  hands  to  show  I was 
unarmed.  Slowly  they  lowered  their  rifles,  then  nodded 
and  laughed  and  ran  on,  firing  down  a street  at  a few 
Chinese  soldiers  who  had  been  tardy  in  making  their 
escape.  As  they  ran  they  looked  all  round  apprehen- 
sively, till  they  disappeared  in  the  direction  of  the  gate 
outside  which  we  had  seen  the  approaching  army. 

An  hour  later  the  Japanese  quietly  occupied  New- 
chwang.  It  was  the  first  thaw  of  spring.  Until  a few  days 
before  it  had  been  bitterly  cold,  but  now  in  warm  sunshine 
we  watched  the  men  struggling  through  deep  slush,  with 
their  heavy  winter  overcoats  thrown  open.  From  every 
house  curious  eyes  were  peering,  and  before  long  some, 
bolder  than  their  fellows,  offered  the  conquerors  drinks 
of  hot  water  or  tea,  according  to  the  degree  of  their 
poverty.  Newchwang  breathed  a sigh  of  relief  : all  was 
over,  the  town  was  taken,  and  nothing  dreadful  had 
happened. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  there  was  a sudden 
crash  of  cannon  very  near  us,  the  scream  of  shells  over  our 
heads,  the  bursting  of  shrapnel  in  the  air.  A Chinese  fort 
a couple  of  miles  off  had  opened  fire  on  the  Japanese  on  the 
plain.  Their  aim  was  most  uncertain ; indeed  they  were 
almost  as  likely  to  strike  the  town  itself  as  the  enemy,  and 
for  a few  hours  while  the  artillery  duel  lasted  there  was 
much  anxiety.  But  night  fell,  and  after  spiking  their 
guns  the  plucky  little  garrison  withdrew. 

The  Chinese  headquarters  were  nowT  at  Tienchuang-tai, 
ten  miles  off,  on  the  other  side  of  the  River  Liao.  Here 
were  gathered  the  broken  remnants  of  the  army,  guarding 
a large  store  of  munitions  of  war.  We  were  awakened  at 
dawn  two  days  later  by  heavy  cannonading,  the  Jap- 


104 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


anese  attack  on  this  position.  Severe  fighting  continued 
all  that  day  and  part  of  the  next,  and  then  the  Chinese 
fled.  The  Japanese  fired  the  town,  as  it  did  not  suit  them 
to  hold  it,  and  all  evening  and  for  days  afterwards  the 
sky  was  black  with  the  smoke  of  the  burning. 

A few  days  later  some  of  us  visited  the  place.  It  had 
been  a flourishing  town  with  ten  thousand  inhabitants  ; 
now  there  were  but  desolate  ruins.  Some  houses  were 
still  smouldering,  and  the  large  fleet  of  hundreds  of  boats 
docked  for  the  winter  had  shared  in  the  conflagration. 
The  streets  were  strewn  with  the  slain,  and  fierce  skeletons 
of  dogs  were  prowling  about  and  devouring  the  bodies. 
We  found  a few,  very  few,  wounded  hiding  among  the 
ruins.  When  the  starving  wretches  saw  that  we  were  not 
Japanese,  they  crawled  out  from  their  holes,  or  hailed  us, 
and  we  made  arrangements  for  their  conveyance  to  the 
Red  Cross  hospital.  This  was  the  last  battle  of  the  war. 

The  Chino -Japanese  war  was  one  of  the  first  where 
comparisons  could  be  drawn  between  the  wounds  caused 
respectively  by  the  old  heavy  leaden  bullet  and  by  the 
newer  hard -jacketed  bullet  of  small  calibre  and  high 
velocity.  The  new  type  of  rifle  had  recently  been  intro- 
duced into  the  Japanese  army  and  was  used  at  Ping-yang, 
but  a good  many  regiments  were  still  armed  with  the  older 
weapon,  which  was  responsible  for  most  of  the  cases 
treated  in  Newchwang.  I had  therefore  an  opportunity 
of  comparing  the  two,  and  published  the  results  of  my 
observations  at  the  time  in  the  medical  journals. 

During  the  few  months  of  the  existence  of  this  Red  Cross 
hospital  over  a thousand  wounded  were  admitted. 
In  spite  of  the  unfavourable  conditions,  the  mortality 
was  remarkably  low.  Most  of  the  deaths  were  cases 
where  pieces  of  dirty  wadded  clothing  had  been  carried 
into  the  wounds.  In  many  of  these,  life  might  have  been 
saved  by  prompt  amputation  ; but  few  were  willing  to 
submit  until  symptoms  of  septic  absorption  developed, 
when  it  was  frequently  too  late.  Not  a few,  when  the 


AMONG  THE  WOUNDED 


105 


alternative  was  laid  before  them,  calmly  but  firmly  de- 
cided to  die.  Many  of  the  wounded  were  also  severely 
frost-bitten.  One  had  a bullet  wound  which  healed 
quickly,  but  he  lost  both  feet,  as  they  were  frozen  before 
he  was  found  lying  unconscious. 

The  good  results  of  the  Red  Cross  work  were  not  con- 
fined to  the  healing  of  wounds  and  saving  of  fives.  A 
lasting  impression  was  made  on  the  minds  of  all  who  came 
in  touch  with  it.  Of  direct  Christian  teaching  there  was 
necessarily  little,  but  it  was  remarkable  to  see  the  number 
of  convalescent  patients  who  voluntarily  attended  the 
Sunday  services  in  the  Chinese  church.  Some  months 
later  several  of  these  men  were  baptized,  and  one  we 
still  know  as  a prominent  Christian  in  a church  in  a neigh- 
bouring province.  Hundreds  took  away  at  least  some 
knowledge  of  the  religion  of  Christ,  hundreds  more  a 
friendly  and  grateful  respect  for  the  foreigner  whom  they 
formerly  hated  and  despised. 

The  Chinese  officials  publicly  recognized  the  Red 
Cross,  and  showed  readiness  to  help.  In  February  the 
chief  magistrate  of  Newchwang  telegraphed  at  my  request 
to  the  Governor-General  in  Moukden  and  to  my  assistant, 
Mr.  Wei,  as  I wished  more  of  my  students  to  come,  and 
this  was  impossible  without  protection.  Carts,  money 
for  the  journey,  and  a military  escort  were  provided  by 
the  Governor-General.  Unfortunately,  when  half-way, 
the  fall  of  Newchwang  compelled  the  party  to  return. 

In  the  early  months  of  the  war  the  coming  of  the 
Japanese  was  universally  regarded  with  terror.  Many 
hundreds  faced  the  known  dangers  of  flight  rather  than 
the  unknown  horrors  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
enemy.  In  spring  their  successful  conquest  of  many 
miles  of  populous  country  was  accepted  by  these  same 
people  with  equanimity.  This  change  of  attitude  was  the 
result  of  the  unexpected  mercifulness  and  equity  of  the 
Japanese  rule.  At  first  there  were  many  excesses ; people 
were  summarily  turned  out  of  their  homes,  property  was 


106 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


seized  without  payment,  furniture  was  used  for  fuel,  and 
for  women  it  was  never  safe.  But  as  time  went  on  the 
soldiers  were  kept  more  strictly  in  hand,  and  when  civil 
governors  were  appointed  over  towms,  people  found  them- 
selves under  a just  and  orderly  government. 

Newchwang  was  specially  fortunate  in  its  administrator. 
Complaints  were  promptly  attended  to,  justice  im- 
partially administered.  A few  cases  where  Japanese 
were  punished  for  oppressing  Chinese  made  a great  im- 
pression. Sanitary  conditions  were  improved,  road- 
making vigorously  carried  on,  lamps  erected  on  the 
main  streets.  In  several  other  large  towns  the  administra- 
tion was  of  the  same  benevolent,  just,  and  enlightened 
nature. 

The  acquiescence  of  the  people  was  helped  by  their 
bitter  resentment  against  their  own  Government,  especi- 
ally Li  Hung  Chang,  who  was  universally  believed  to 
have  “ sold  the  country.”  Stories  were  common,  with 
what  foundation  it  is  impossible  to  say,  of  shells  filled 
with  sand  instead  of  explosives,  of  hundreds  of  boxes  full 
of  cartridges  which  were  practically  blank,  and  of  guns 
which  would  not  fire.  Certain  it  is  that  there  were  stores 
of  cartridges  which  did  not  fit  the  rifles,  and  loads  of 
rifles  with  no  ammunition. 

Had  all  the  Japanese  been  like  the  civil  administrators 
the  people  might  have  been  sorry  to  see  them  go.  But 
there  were  others.  Following  the  army  as  coolies, 
baggage  carriers,  etc.,  were  a miscellaneous  crowd  of  the 
very  lowest  class,  who  were  regarded  by  the  Chinese  with 
contempt  mingled  with  fear.  Their  uncouth  garments 
and  naked  limbs  called  forth  constant  expressions  of  dis- 
gust. Drunkenness  and  other  vices  were  common  among 
them,  and  they  were  not  under  strict  discipline  like  the 
soldiers. 

While  the  towns  were  well  governed,  the  rural  districts 
were  practically  without  law.  Robbers  overran  the 
country,  many  armed  with  magazine  rifles.  During  the 


AMONG  THE  WOUNDED 


107 


spring  and  summer  months  the  River  Liao  swarmed  with 
pirates,  and  travelling  by  road  or  river  was  most  danger- 
ous. The  whole  land  groaned  for  a settled  government. 
Greatly  exaggerated  reports,  however,  were  taken  to 
Tientsin  by  the  retreating  soldiers.  Newchwang  was  said 
to  be  burned,  the  country  laid  waste,  the  inhabitants 
massacred.  The  telegraph  wires  were  cut,  no  mails  had 
got  through  for  weeks,  there  was  no  communication  by 
sea  as  cold  weather  returned  and  the  river  remained 
frozen,  so  the  truth  could  not  be  ascertained. 

Towards  the  end  of  March  a British  cruiser  was  sent 
as  near  to  Newchwang  as  possible,  to  find  out  the  fate  of 
the  foreigners.  A steam-launch  came  as  far  up  the  river 
as  the  ice  would  allow,  and  landed  a small  party  who 
walked  six  miles  to  the  town  carrying  heavy  bags  of 
mails,  our  first  news  from  the  outer  world  for  over  a 
month.  This  welcome  relief  party  was  feted  joyfully, 
and  escorted  to  their  launch  with  as  heavy  mail-bags  as 
they  brought. 

Peace  was  signed  on  8 May.  Manchuria  was  to  be  rent 
asunder,  and  the  southern  part  to  belong  to  Japan. 
Immediately  thereafter  came  startling  news  : certain 

European  Powers  had  interfered,  Japan  was  to  give  up 
the  conquered  territory,  receiving  Formosa  instead, 
South  Manchuria  was  still  to  be  Chinese,  and  Korea 
independent. 

It  was  some  time  before  the  country  was  sufficiently 
settled  for  anyone  to  return  to  the  interior.  Not  until  the 
end  of  July  did  we  receive  our  passports,  board  our  boats, 
disregarding  pirates,  and  gladly  sail  away  up  the  river. 
We  had  been  prepared  to  have  our  houses  looted,  but  when 
we  entered  them  after  nine  months’  absence  they  were 
absolutely  untouched,  even  to  a pair  of  scissors  left 
carelessly  on  a mantelpiece.  It  was  good  to  be  back,  with 
peace  reigning  once  more. 

We  found  khat  our  Red  Cross  work  was  well  known 
to  the  Government.  Mr.  Wei  was  presented  with  a 


108 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


button  of  the  fifth  rank  in  return  for  his  services  to  the 
wounded,  and  in  recognition  of  all  our  hospital  had  done. 
Some  time  later  the  doctors  who  had  taken  a leading  part 
in  the  Red  Cross  work  received  from  the  Emperor  the 
decoration  of  the  third  grade  of  the  Order  of  the  Double 
Dragon. 

The  Red  Cross  Society  in  Shanghai  found  itself  now  at 
the  close  of  the  war  with  a balance,  out  of  which  they 
made  grants  in  aid  to  hospitals  which  had  done  Red 
Cross  work.  Fifteen  hundred  taels  (about  £240)  was 
given  to  the  Moukden  hospital,  with  which  an  adjoining 
compound  was  purchased,  a most  necessary  addition. 


XIII 


A STRANGE  AFTERMATH  OF  WAR 

“ Let  us  admit  it  fairly,  as  a business  people  should, 

We  have  had  no  end  of  a lesson  ; it  will  do  us  no  end  of  good.” 

Rudyard  Kipling. 

“ For  mankind  springs  salvation  by  each  hindrance  interposed.” 

Sordello. 

IN  many  parts  of  China  the  war  awakened  no  interest, 
and  the  great  bulk  of  the  people  did  not  even  know 
that  China  had  been  defeated.  In  Manchuria,  and  to  a 
lesser  degree  in  all  North  China,  it  was  naturally  far  other- 
wise. Out  of  their  contemptuous  and  deluded  calm  the 
people  had  been  rudely  shaken.  Now,  after  months  of 
mental  earthquake,  blind  suffering,  and  terror,  they  were 
able  to  look  about  them  again,  to  take  stock  of  what  had 
happened,  to  think  of  what  it  all  meant. 

The  foreigner  had  conquered  them  ! And  it  was  not 
even  the  Western  foreigner,  who  with  all  his  barbarian 
ways  had  wonderful  skill  in  mechanics,  guns,  surgery, 
and  such-like  ; but  it  was  this  neighbouring  people  who 
had  always  been  their  inferiors.  Who  were  these  Japs  ? 
Mere  savages,  who  had  borrowed  Chinese  civilization, 
the  Chinese  written  character,  Chinese  literature.  And 
yet  they  had  conquered  China.  What  was  the  explana- 
tion ? It  was  because  they  had  learned  Western  methods. 
Their  soldiers  were  dressed  in  Western  clothes,  drilled 
Western  drill,  understood  Western  guns,  followed  Western 
ways.  Of  course,  Chinese  ways  were  really  the  best,  but 


109 


110 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


evidently,  if  one  wanted  to  get  on  nowadays,  these  new 
ways  must  be  learned. 

Such  questions  were  asked  and  such  answers  given  in 
every  village  and  hamlet  the  length  and  breadth  of 
Manchuria.  The  country  was  shaken  to  its  foundations. 
Never  again  could  it  sleep  the  sleep  of  the  centuries.  The 
people  began  to  grope  after  light,  but  there  was  no  one 
to  lead  them.  Their  nominal  leaders,  the  officials,  were 
unchanged,  here  and  there  a man  whose  eyes  were  open 
and  who  saw,  but  for  the  most  part  poorly  informed 
conservative  gentlemen,  going  on  in  the  old  ruts,  averse 
to  any  novelty.  The  new  Governor-General  was  an  il- 
literate old  Manchu  soldier,  who  had  commanded  the 
forces  guarding  the  mountains  south  and  east  of  Liaoya,ng. 
The  Japanese  had  not  driven  him  back,  and  he  believed 
that  his  prowess  had  served  the  country.  For  three 
years  he  remained  in  office,  just  at  the  time  when  the 
awakening  aspirations  of  the  best  among  the  people 
would  have  welcomed  an  enlightened  and  progressive 
ruler.  No  improvement  of  any  kind  was  made,  in  educa- 
tion or  in  any  other  direction. 

Left  to  themselves,  most  of  the  people  were  powerless 
to  advance  ; they  talked,  grumbled,  and  did  nothing. 
Some  joined  secret  anti-dynastic  societies  and  discussed 
in  private  the  woes  of  their  country  and  the  iniquities  of 
officialdom.  A Buddhist  sect,  the  Tsai-li-ti,  which  was 
strictly  vegetarian  and  bigotedly  anti-foreign,  also  became 
popular.  On  the  other  hand,  many  read  any  modern  or 
foreign  translated  books  they  could  lay  their  hands  on  ; 
and  wherever  there  was  a Christian  Church  school, 
preaching-hall,  or  little  gathering,  numbers  came  to  learn 
what  “ the  foreign  religion  ” was  like,  for  they  connected 
in  some  hazy  way  the  foreign  religion  with  the  foreign 
victory. 

During  the  four  years  from  1896  to  the  spring  of  1900, 
it  was  flood-tide  for  the  Christian  Church  in  Manchuria, 
a tide  which  gained  strength  year  by  year.  The  Church 


A STRANGE  AETERMATH  OF  WAR  111 


and  the  missionaries  were  embarrassed  by  the  crowds 
seeking  instruction.  Village  after  village  sent  requests 
for  evangelists  and  teachers  : here  were  a hundred  in- 
quirers, there  two  hundred.  During  1896  over  a hundred 
patients  in  our  hospital  gave  in  their  names  as  desirous 
of  entering  the  Church,  and  one  after  another  returned  to 
say  that  he  had  gathered  a score  of  inquirers  who  were 
awaiting  instruction.  Books  were  sold  by  the  thousand. 
In  1897  £200  worth  of  Scriptures  and  single  books  of  the 
Bible  were  sold  in  Manchuria,  and  £300  worth  of  other 
Christian  literature,  in  spite  of  the  general  illiteracy  and 
poverty  of  a large  proportion  of  the  population.  This 
means  much  more  than  the  same  sum  in  England,  as  an 
ordinary  man’s  wage  was  3s.  or  3s.  6d.  a week. 

Among  the  younger  and  more  progressive  officials 
Christian  books  were  commonly  read,  and  the  general 
standpoint  of  the  Christian  Church  began  to  be  dimly 
understood.  One  day,  when  a case  was  being  tried  in 
Moukden,  it  came  out  that  the  man  had  been  a Christian, 
but  was  so  no  longer.  He  evidently  thought  that  having 
given  up  the  foreign  religion  would  be  a point  in  his  favour. 
Further  evidence  showed  that  he  had  been  excommuni- 
cated from  the  Church. 

“ Ah  ! ” said  the  magistrate,  “ if  you  had  been  a good 
man  you  would  not  have  been  put  out  of  the  Church  ! 
Set  that  down  against  him.” 

The  thousands  who  wished  to  enter  their  names  as 
“ inquirers  ” on  the  Church  lists  may  be  divided  broadly 
into  four  classes.  There  were  many  absolutely  ignorant, 
with  no  idea  of  what  Christianity  really  was. 

“ Why  do  you  want  to  enter  the  Church  ? ” they  were 
asked. 

“ They  say  it  is  a good  thing,”  was  a common  answer, 
often  representing  the  man’s  entire  knowledge.  Many 
such  grew  quickly  tired  of  the  instruction,  and  dropped 
off  from  sheer  indolence  of  mind,  saying  that  they  “ did 
not  understand.”  But  a good  many  others  developed  a 


112 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


genuine  interest,  became  first  candidates  for  baptism, 
and  then  members  of  the  Church. 

Then  there  were  those  who  knew  a little  about  the 
Church,  and  regarded  it  as  something  like  a Friendly 
Society.  The  members  gathered  to  listen  to  good  words 
on  Sunday,  and  were  bound  to  be  kind  to  each  other. 
They  helped  the  poor  and  aged,  and  stood  by  each  other 
in  trouble,  so  that  altogether  it  was  a good  society  to 
belong  to,  seeing  trouble  comes  so  often.  Many  of  these 
too  learned  the  deeper  meaning  of  things  and  ultimately 
entered  the  Church. 

There  were  also  a large  number  of  men  who  put  down 
their  names  from  more  or  less  unworthy  motives.  Law- 
suits were  usually  decided  largely  according  to  the 
influence  or  money  of  the  litigants.  Now  that  the  Church 
was  strong  and  of  good  repute  it  had  much  influence,  and 
could  if  it  wished  bring  pressure  to  bear  in  settling  dis- 
putes, either  privately  or  in  the  courts.  Specially  would 
this  be  so  if  a foreigner  could  be  persuaded  to  take  up 
the  matter  and  send  his  card  to  the  official.  The  Roman 
Catholic  Bishop  and  priests  claimed  the  right  to  take  part 
in  any  trial  where  one  of  their  converts  was  concerned, 
and  many  of  our  people  failed  to  understand  why  Pro- 
testants should  not  have  equal  privileges.  The  Buddhist 
sects  too  were  always  ready  to  help  their  members. 
There  were  many  instances  of  men  leaving  in  disgust 
after  a few  months’  instruction,  being  finally  convinced 
that,  in  spite  of  their  conformance  to  the  troublesome 
rules  about  attending  services  and  renouncing  gambling 
and  opium,  the  foreigner  did  not  mean  to  help  them  in 
their  affairs.  Some  of  the  Christian  elders  did  not  at 
first  agree  with  this  policy  of  inaction. 

“ If  our  brethren  are  in  trouble,  defrauded  or  accused 
wrongfully,”  they  would  argue,  “ and  if  we  have  the 
power  to  help  them,  should  we  not  do  it  ? ” And  they  very 
often  did. 

Gradually,  however,  it  became  more  and  more  evident 


A STRANGE  AFTERMATH  OF  WAR  113 


to  the  Chinese  as  well  as  to  ourselves,  that  the  only  way 
to  keep  the  Church  pure  was  to  refuse  to  meddle  in  any 
way  in  such  matters,  whether  right  or  wrong.  The 
Presbyterial  gatherings  of  the  elders  of  the  churches  in 
Manchuria  discussed  these  subjects,  and  finally  the  use 
of  the  name  of  the  Church  in  litigation  was  unanimously 
condemned  by  them.  There  are  throughout  Manchuria 
to-day  not  a few  zealous  Christians  who  were  first 
attracted  to  Christianity  because  of  its  supposed  advan- 
tage in  their  worldly  affairs.  They  came  seeking  a stone, 
and  they  found  the  Bread  of  Life. 

Besides  those  who  came  in  ignorance  or  by  mistake, 
there  were  a goodly  number  who  had  read  Christian 
books,  or  talked  with  Christian  friends,  or  watched  the 
daily  life  of  Christian  neighbours,  or  spent  some  time  in 
a hospital,  and  who  had  deliberately  made  up  their 
minds  that  they  would  learn  more  of  this  Way,  and  walk 
in  it. 

As  the  numbers  increased  of  those  seeking  to  join  the 
Church,  it  became  necessary  to  make  the  rules  of  entrance 
more  stringent.  No  inquirer  was  enrolled  as  a cate- 
chumen or  applicant  for  baptism  until  the  evangelist  in 
charge,  or  the  “ session  ” of  the  congregation,  was  satisfied 
that  he  was  of  good  moral  character,  neither  opium- 
smoker,  gambler,  nor  in  any  way  bringing  shame  on  his 
profession  ; that  he  understood  what  he  was  doing  ; 
and  that  he  had  no  worldly  motive  in  becoming  a Chris- 
tian. After  being  accepted  as  a candidate,  a man  must 
attend  services  and  classes,  and  continue  to  prove 
himself  sincere  and  consistent  for  nine  months,  then  he 
might  be  baptized.  In  spite  of  all  precautions,  a good 
many  were  admitted  who  were  a source  of  weakness  to  the 
Church.  The  rapid  increase  in  numbers  was  not  an  un- 
mixed good. 

With  this  urgent  demand  everywhere  for  instruction, 
the  insufficiency  of  trained  Chinese  workers  became 
lamentably  evident.  Could  their  number  at  that  time 


114 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


have  been  trebled,  there  would  still  have  been  more  than 
enough  for  all  to  do.  In  looking  back  on  those  years  we 
cannot  but  feel  how  very  inadequately  the  great  oppor- 
tunity was  met.  Many  must  have  lost  interest  or 
dropped  away  because  of  the  incapacity  of  the  local 
Christians  and  evangelists  to  meet  their  needs. 

In  spite  of  all  drawbacks,  the  mixed  motives  of  in- 
quirers, the  difficulty  of  detecting  insincerity,  the  in- 
sufficiency of  evangelists  both  in  number  and  in  educa- 
tion— the  advance  of  the  Christian  Church  in  every  way 
was  by  leaps  and  bounds.  In  1896  the  membership  was 
5788,  with  6300  on  the  lists  of  applicants,  not  including 
the  many  “ inquirers  55  whose  names  had  not  yet  been 
accepted.  A year  later  there  were  10,255  members  and 
9442  candidates.  At  the  end  of  1899  the  numbers  were 
19,646,  and  over  7000.  The  growth  in  independence, 
self-support,  and  management  of  Church  matters  by  the 
Chinese  themselves  was  equally  rapid.  Chapels  were 
built  without  foreign  help,  preachers  were  supported 
by  their  people,  Christian  schools  were  started  and 
financed.  The  amount  contributed  by  the  Christians 
for  such  objects  in  1896  was  £261  ; in  1899  it  was  £2000. 
One  congregation  after  another  was  formed,  and  elected 
elders  who  attended  the  meetings  of  Presbytery,  where 
rules  for  Church  government  were  decided,  and  the 
business  of  the  Church  transacted. 

At  the  same  time  there  was  a new  development  of  the 
sense  of  personal  individual  responsibility  for  influencing 
others,  and  a marked  increase  in  the  number  and  in- 
telligence of  women  members.  It  had  never  been  directly 
through  foreign  missionaries  that  any  large  number  of 
Chinese  in  Manchuria  became  Christians,  nor  even 
principally  through  the  preaching  of  outstanding  Chinese 
leaders.  The  chief  factor  in  attracting  men  was  and  is 
the  quiet  personal  influence  of  humble  unlettered  folk, 
and  the  patient  line  upon  line  instruction  given  by  obscure 
evangelists. 


A STRANGE  AFTERMATH  OF  WAR  115 


It  was  obvious  that  the  most  urgent  needs  of  the  time 
were  a well -trained  Christian  pastorate  and  a supply  of 
capable  evangelists.  Missionaries  did  not  take  up  the 
position  of  pastors  of  congregations.  They  considered 
it  the  right  of  the  Church  to  have  men  of  their  own  race 
as  pastors  and  spiritual  leaders,  the  foreigner  keeping 
himself  in  the  background  as  adviser  and  friend.  Up  till 
now  there  was  but  one  native  pastor  in  Manchuria, 
supported  by  and  ministering  to  the  Moukden  congrega- 
tion. Comparatively  few  Christians  were  of  the  cultured 
class,  so  that  preachers  of  real  education  were  uncommon  ; 
some  who  came  to  be  trained  could  not  write,  and  some 
were  even  poor  readers.  There  had  been  for  long  a 
regular  system  of  training  for  these  men,  courses  of 
lectures,  books  prescribed  for  study,  annual  examinations. 
Most  of  them  were  genuinely  in  earnest  in  their  work, 
and  it  was  sometimes  found  that  the  least  cultured  were 
the  most  successful  in  winning  and  guiding  men.  Some- 
thing more,  however,  was  needed  for  the  Pastorate. 
Systematic  Theological  Training  was  now  arranged  by  the 
two  missions,  Scottish  and  Irish  unitedly,  a number  of 
the  best  evangelists  forming  the  first  class.  At  the  same 
time  there  was  increased  provision  for  lecturing,  at 
several  different  centres,  to  evangelists  and  any  members 
who  attended  voluntarily  ; and  at  the  annual  examina- 
tions about  120  presented  themselves. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  the  Danish  Lutheran  Church 
sent  a number  of  missionaries  to  work  in  the  Liaotung 
Peninsula,  from  Port  Arthur  and  Dalny  northwards. 
There  too  the  general  awakening  was  felt,  though  to  a 
lesser  extent. 

The  hospital  work  in  Moukden  had  its  share  in  the 
increasing  prosperity,  and  numbers  grew  rapidly.  A 
separate  women’s  hospital  and  dispensary  were  estab- 
lished in  1897  under  two  lady  doctors,  and  the  staffs  of 
both  institutions  had  their  hands  full. 


XIV 

THE  STORY  OF  BLIND  CHANG  OF  THE  VALLEY 
OF  PEACE 


“ Doth  God  exact  day-labour,  light  denied  ? ” 

Sonnet,  Milton 

“ Doing  the  King’s  work  all  the  dim  day  long.” 

R.  Browning. 


IN  a small  hamlet  in  the  remote  Valley  of  Peace,  there 
lived  many  years  ago  a man  of  the  name  of  Chang , 
well  known  in  the  neighbourhood  as  a gambler  and  bad 
character,  and  also  as  a member  of  an  earnest  Buf  "hist 
sect,  distinguished  by  their  keen  search  for  Truth.  Blind- 
ness having  come  upon  him,  he  heard  with  interest  of  a 
foreign  doctor  in  Moukden  who  could  restore  sight. 
Chang  was  an  exceptional  man,  of  great  strength  of 
character,  and  in  spite  of  the  fears,  warnings,  and  mockery 
of  the  neighbours,  he  sold  his  belongings,  tied  up  his 
money  in  a cloth,  and  started  on  his  quest.  But  the  road 
was  long  and  dangerous,  and  when  still  several  days  from 
his  goal  robbers  fell  upon  him  and  took  from  him  his 
treasured  hoard.  Still  he  struggled  on,  but  illness 
attacked  him,  and  he  reached  our  Moukden  gate  at  last,  a 
pitiable  wreck. 

Our  small  tumble-down  hospital  was  already  over- 
crowded, and  there  was  not  a corner  for  him,  so  he  was 
given  medicine  and  told  to  go  to  an  inn  until  there  was 
room.  With  pathetic  vehemence  he  pled  his  cause,  the 
120  weary  miles  he  had  walked,  how  ill  he  was,  how  his 
money  was  all  gone.  At  last  the  hospital  preacher 

116 


THE  STORY  OF  BLIND  CHANG 


117 


offered  to  give  him  his  bed,  and  so  Blind  Chang  was 
received. 

His  eyes  were  incurable,  only  a little  glimmer  of  light 
being  restored,  but  this  seemed  of  small  import  to 
him,  for  during  the  month  he  was  with  us  a flood  of 
light  illumined  his  inner  vision.  From  the  first  day  he 
listened  with  absorbed  interest  to  what  was  told  him  of 
Him  in  whose  name  the  hospital  was  opened. 

4 4 This  is  just  what  I have  been  seeking  for  years,”  he 
exclaimed,  as  he  drank  in  with  avidity  all  that  was  said. 
It  seemed  as  if  his  mind  had  been  ready  waiting  for  it, 
and  before  many  days  he  began  to  preach  eloquently 
to  the  other  patients.  It  is  not  often  that  the  story  of 
the  Saviour  meets  with  such  joyful  acceptance,  nor 
His  claims  with  such  immediate  whole-hearted  loyalty. 
It  was  not  unlike  the  man  of  old  : 44  See,  here  is  water, 
what  doth  hinder  me  to  be  baptized  ? ” But  the  cautious 
rules  of  the  Church  enacted  that  he  must  be  tested  first. 
He  must  return  to  his  home  and  make  known  his  new 
faith,  and  he  would  be  visited  there  later  on.  Much 
disappointed,  he  betook  himself  once  more  to  the  northern 
road,  and  was  lost  sight  of. 

Six  months  later,  Rev.  James  Webster  took  his  journey 
to  the  north,  and  from  a town  on  the  main  road  set  out 
to  look  for  the  Valley  of  Peace.  It  was  difficult  to  find, 
and  the  road  was  bad. 

44  We  came  to  a place,”  writes  Mr.  Webster,  44  where 
it  seemed  impossible  for  the  cart  to  cross.  The  carter 
talked  of  giving  it  up,  so  I dismounted  and  proceeded 
on  foot,  well  assured  that  the  cart  would  follow  me 
somehow.  When  at  last  I reached  the  village,  I was 
led  with  much  ceremony  into  the  house  of  Mr.  Li,  the 
village  schoolmaster.  We  drank  a cup  of  tea,  he  telling 
me  the  while  tidings  which  made  me  forget  all  hunger 
and  weariness,  to  the  effect  that  when  Blind  Chang 
came  home  from  Moukden  he  began  to  tell  the  people 
about  this  religion  of  Jesus,  going  from  village  to  village, 


118 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


and  into  as  many  houses  as  received  him,  and  in  the 
evenings  preaching  sometimes  to  hundreds  under  the 
shade  of  the  willow  trees  ; how  at  first  everybody 
laughed  at  him,  or  thought  him  crazed,  and  pitied 
him; — (‘It’s  all  very  well  for  him  to  reform,’  they 
said,  ‘ for  he  cannot  gamble  without  eyes.’) — how, 
when  he  still  went  on  preaching  and  giving  practical 
proofs  of  having  undergone  a change,  people  got 
divided  about  him.  Some  were  for  him,  some  against 
him  ; some  blessed  him,  some  cursed  him  ; in  short, 
the  whole  countryside  was  in  an  uproar.  Week  after 
week  passed,  Chang  daily  praying  his  prayer  for  help 
from  on  high  and  singing  his  one  hymn  learned  in 
Moukden,  and  then  sallying  forth,  groping  his  darkened 
way  with  his  staff,  to  tell  of  Jesus  the  Son  of  God. 
‘ And  the  upshot  of  all  this  is,’  said  Mr.  Li,  ‘ that 
there  is  a large  number  of  people  earnestly  inquiring 
about  the  doctrine,  and  several  are  thoroughly  con- 
vinced, and  heartily  believe,  and  desire  to  become 
members  of  the  religion  of  Jesus.’ 

“ But  where  was  the  blind  man  all  the  while  ? He 
had  gone  to  visit  one  of  the  inquirers,  and  I had  missed 
him  on  the  way.  Mr.  Li  left  his  school  and  accompanied 
me.  At  last  we  met,  and  I accosted  Chang.  He  stood 
stock  still  for  a moment,  and  then  his  face  became 
perfectly  radiant  with  joy,  and  great  tears  dropped 
from  his  eyes  as  he  said  in  a voice  quivering  with 
emotion  : 

“ £ 0 Pastor  ! you  promised,  and  I always  said  you 
would  come  ! ’ 

“ We  directed  our  steps  to  the  inquirer’s  house, 
talking  as  we  went  of  all  that  had  taken  place.  The 
few  remaining  hours  of  light  were  occupied  in  speaking 
to  the  household  of  old  and  young  who  had  gathered, 
answering  questions,  and  instructing  inquirers.  When 
it  was  time  to  retire,  the  inquirer,  the  blind  man,  and 
the  evangelist  who  accompanied  me  began  to  talk. 
All  manner  of  questions  were  started  and  discussed, 
and  difficulties  explained.  Midnight,  the  small  hours 
of  the  morning  passed,  and  at  last  I fell  asleep  in  the 


THE  STORY  OF  BLIND  CHANG 


119 


midst  of  a discussion  of  Confucianism  as  compared 
with  Christianity.  Whether  the  three  ever  slept  I do 
not  know,  but  the  first  thing  I was  conscious  of  was 
shrill  voices  in  earnest  converse,  as  on  the  previous 
night.  We  had  a crowded  house  all  day.  I met  each 
applicant  for  baptism  privately,  and  I have  seldom 
had  more  satisfaction  than  with  these  men.  Nine  were 
baptized,  headed  by  their  blind  guide.” 

At  this  time  Chang  was  able  to  see  fight,  but  unfortu- 
nately he  trusted  himself  to  a native  doctor,  who  promised 
to  cure  him  by  piercing  the  eye  with  needles,  with  the  not 
unnatural  result  of  complete  blindness.  Some  time  later 
arrangements  were  made  for  him  to  join  the  School  for 
the  Blind  at  Peking,  under  Mr.  Murray.  Here  he  spent 
three  months  learning  to  read  and  write,  and  then 
returned  to  his  valley  with  his  books  in  embossed  type. 
Crowds  gathered  round  him  to  see  the  marvel  of  a blind 
man  reading  with  the  tips  of  his  fingers,  and  what  he  read 
he  explained  and  enforced  with  fluent  eloquence.  He  had 
a marvellous  memory,  and  as  the  years  went  on  he  laid 
aside  his  cumbrous  volumes  and  recited  the  Scriptures  by 
heart.  He  knew  the  entire  New  Testament,  chapter  and 
verse  by  number,  and  a good  deal  of  the  Old.  When  a 
text  was  announced — say  2 Corinthians  ix.  6 — he  would 
at  once  begin  to  repeat  the  words  from  that  exact  verse. 
He  meditated  on  the  Scriptures  constantly,  bringing  forth 
wonderful  new  interpretations  of  his  own,  and  was 
neither  pleased  nor  convinced  when  the  missionaries  did 
not  agree  with  these. 

Chang’s  personal  devotion  to  Christ,  his  loyalty  and 
zeal  in  making  Him  known  to  others,  his  untiring  energy 
in  instructing  converts  in  the  elements  of  the  faith,  were 
unequalled.  He  was  a difficult  man  to  work  with  or  con- 
trol, but  his  very  weaknesses  seemed  to  contribute  to  the 
spread  of  the  Light.  His  was  a restless  spirit,  hating  to  be 
tied  down.  The  missionary  who  had  engaged  him  as  an 
evangelist  might  leave  him  in  charge  of  a certain  district, 


120 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


to  preach  and  instruct  there,  but  on  returning  a few 
months  later  would  find  him  gone.  Some  inward  impulse 
had  led  him,  he  had  cast  aside  his  stated  duties,  and  set 
forth  to  some  distant  town  or  village,  there  anew  to 
gather  crowds  of  hearers  and  inquirers.  Thus  he  wan- 
dered, staying  a few  weeks  here,  a month  or  two  there,  and 
then  returning  to  the  work  he  had  undertaken.  Wherever 
he  went  he  left  behind  him  a knot  of  interested  inquirers. 
He  did  not  seem  capable  of  giving  prolonged  systematic 
instruction,  but  the  seed  he  sowed  seemed  to  five  in  the 
hearts  of  his  hearers. 

“ If  Chang  Shen  had  not  lost  his  sight,”  said  one  of  the 
Christians  of  that  wide  district,  “ there  would  have  been 
no  Church  here.” 

One  of  his  wanderings  was  to  a remote  valley,  a hundred 
miles  from  the  Valley  of  Peace,  among  the  mountains  in 
the  far  east  which  had  formed  the  Imperial  Hunting 
Grounds.  These  were  opened  to  settlers,  one  of  whom 
was  a relation  of  Chang’s.  To  seek  him  out  the  blind  man 
took  this  long  journey.  Here  again  he  gathered  a group 
of  converts,  and  the  history  of  the  Valley  of  Peace  was 
repeated.  In  answer  to  his  summons  two  missionaries 
travelled  for  days  across  a sparsely  populated  region 
where  the  name  of  Christ  was  quite  unknown,  and  found 
in  the  distant  “ Valley  of  Victory  ” a little  group  of 
believers  asking  for  baptism.  Some  time  later  Blind 
Chang  went  again  to  this  valley  and  was  asked  to  remain 
there.  He  received  no  salary,  and  was  under  no  one’s 
orders,  but  moved  about  from  house  to  house  receiving 
his  food  wherever  he  happened  to  be,  and  the  women 
provided  his  clothes. 

For  two  years  no  foreigner  could  visit  nor  communicate 
with  the  valley,  owing  to  the  Chino -Japanese  war, 
brigandage,  and  other  causes.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
there  were  in  the  district  four  distinct  meeting-places 
where  worship  was  held  regularly,  and  a Christian  school. 
One  of  the  earliest  of  these  Valley  of  Victory  believers 


THE  STORY  OF  BLIND  CHANG 


121 


is  now  an  ordained  Pastor  over  a congregation  in  a 
neighbouring  valley,  which  supports  him  entirely,  and 
there  are  several  other  self-supporting  congregations  in 
the  district. 

A special  feature  of  Chang’s  work  was  his  instruction 
of  women  and  children.  While  the  men  were  working  in 
the  fields,  the  women  were  cooking  and  sewing  and  grind- 
ing corn  in  the  homes,  and  he  sat  and  talked  to  them  and 
the  children  as  a sighted  man  could  not  have  been 
allowed  to  do.  Then  when  going  about  the  country  the 
boys  were  always  ready  to  act  as  his  guides,  and  as  they 
went  he  talked.  A good  many  members  of  the  Christian 
Church  to-day  look  back  on  these  talks  on  the  mountain- 
paths  as  the  very  foundation  of  their  fife.  Chang  must  have 
been  the  means  of  personally  leading  to  the  faith  many 
hundred  individuals,  but  his  work  was  now  nearly  done. 

It  was  the  summer  of  the  fateful  1900,  fourteen  years 
from  that  evening  when  a blind,  sick,  and  penniless  man 
moved  our  compassion  at  the  Moukden  hospital  gate. 
Chang  was  again  in  the  Valley  of  Victory  when  the 
Boxer  storm  broke.  It  is  a mountainous  region  where  the 
concealment  of  individuals  is  not  difficult,  and  he  being 
a marked  man  was  hidden  away  in  the  recesses  of  the 
hills,  the  faithful  people  sending  him  food.  The  band  of 
Boxers,  exasperated  at  losing  their  most  conspicuous 
prey,  threatened  not  only  to  kill  the  Christians,  but  to 
lay  waste  the  whole  valley  with  fire  and  sword.  At  last 
someone  told  Chang,  and  at  once  he  came  forth  from  his 
hiding-place  and  let  himself  be  taken  prisoner.  He  was 
brought  to  a neighbouring  town  whose  headmen  were 
allied  with  the  Boxers,  and  in  a temple  was  ordered  to 
worship  the  idols  or  die. 

“ I can  only  worship  the  one  living  and  true  God.” 

“ But  we  will  kill  you.” 

“ That  is  of  no  importance,  I shall  rise  again.” 

“ Will  you  not  repent  of  your  wickedness  in  following 
the  foreigner  ? ” 


120 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


to  preach  and  instruct  there,  but  on  returnnig  a few 
months  later  would  find  him  gone.  Some  inward  impulse 
had  led  him,  he  had  cast  aside  his  stated  duties,  and  set 
forth  to  some  distant  town  or  village,  there  anew  to 
gather  crowds  of  hearers  and  inquirers.  Thus  he  wan- 
dered, staying  a few  weeks  here,  a month  or  two  there,  and 
then  returning  to  the  work  he  had  undertaken.  Wherever 
he  went  he  left  behind  him  a knot  of  interested  inquirers. 
He  did  not  seem  capable  of  giving  prolonged  systematic 
instruction,  but  the  seed  he  sowed  seemed  to  five  in  the 
hearts  of  his  hearers. 

“ If  Chang  Shen  had  not  lost  his  sight,”  said  one  of  the 
Christians  of  that  wide  district,  “ there  would  have  been 
no  Church  here.” 

One  of  his  wanderings  was  to  a remote  valley,  a hundred 
miles  from  the  Valley  of  Peace,  among  the  mountains  in 
the  far  east  which  had  formed  the  Imperial  Hunting 
Grounds.  These  were  opened  to  settlers,  one  of  whom 
was  a relation  of  Chang’s.  To  seek  him  out  the  blind  man 
took  this  long  journey.  Here  again  he  gathered  a group 
of  converts,  and  the  history  of  the  Valley  of  Peace  was 
repeated.  In  answer  to  his  summons  two  missionaries 
travelled  for  days  across  a sparsely  populated  region 
where  the  name  of  Christ  was  quite  unknown,  and  found 
in  the  distant  “ Valley  of  Victory  ” a little  group  of 
believers  asking  for  baptism.  Some  time  later  Blind 
Chang  went  again  to  this  valley  and  was  asked  to  remain 
there.  He  received  no  salary,  and  was  under  no  one’s 
orders,  but  moved  about  from  house  to  house  receiving 
his  food  wherever  he  happened  to  be,  and  the  women 
provided  his  clothes. 

For  two  years  no  foreigner  could  visit  nor  communicate 
with  the  valley,  owing  to  the  Chino -Japanese  war, 
brigandage,  and  other  causes.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
there  were  in  the  district  four  distinct  meeting-places 
where  worship  was  held  regularly,  and  a Christian  school. 
One  of  the  earliest  of  these  Valley  of  Victory  believers 


THE  STORY  OF  BLIND  CHANG 


121 


is  now  an  ordained  Pastor  over  a congregation  in  a 
neighbouring  valley,  which  supports  him  entirely,  and 
there  are  several  other  self-supporting  congregations  in 
the  district. 

A special  feature  of  Chang’s  work  was  his  instruction 
of  women  and  children.  While  the  men  were  working  in 
the  fields,  the  women  were  cooking  and  sewing  and  grind- 
ing corn  in  the  homes,  and  he  sat  and  talked  to  them  and 
the  children  as  a sighted  man  could  not  have  been 
allowed  to  do.  Then  when  going  about  the  country  the 
boys  were  always  ready  to  act  as  his  guides,  and  as  they 
went  he  talked.  A good  many  members  of  the  Christian 
Church  to-day  look  back  on  these  talks  on  the  mountain- 
paths  as  the  very  foundation  of  their  fife.  Chang  must  have 
been  the  means  of  personally  leading  to  the  faith  many 
hundred  individuals,  but  his  work  was  now  nearly  done. 

It  was  the  summer  of  the  fateful  1900,  fourteen  years 
from  that  evening  when  a blind,  sick,  and  penniless  man 
moved  our  compassion  at  the  Moukden  hospital  gate. 
Chang  was  again  in  the  Valley  of  Victory  when  the 
Boxer  storm  broke.  It  is  a mountainous  region  where  the 
concealment  of  individuals  is  not  difficult,  and  he  being 
a marked  man  was  hidden  away  in  the  recesses  of  the 
hills,  the  faithful  people  sending  him  food.  The  band  of 
Boxers,  exasperated  at  losing  their  most  conspicuous 
prey,  threatened  not  only  to  kill  the  Christians,  but  to 
lay  waste  the  whole  valley  with  fire  and  sword.  At  last 
someone  told  Chang,  and  at  once  he  came  forth  from  his 
hiding-place  and  let  himself  be  taken  prisoner.  He  was 
brought  to  a neighbouring  town  whose  headmen  were 
allied  with  the  Boxers,  and  in  a temple  was  ordered  to 
worship  the  idols  or  die. 

“ I can  only  worship  the  one  living  and  true  God.” 

“ But  we  will  kill  you.” 

“ That  is  of  no  importance,  I shall  rise  again.” 

“Will  you  not  repent  of  your  wickedness  in  following 
the  foreigner  ? ” 


122 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ I have  repented  of  all  my  sins.” 

“ Then  you  will  believe  in  Buddha  ? ” 

“ No,  I believe  in  my  Lord  Jesus  Christ,”  and  he 
began  to  preach  to  them. 

Afraid  to  kill  him  themselves,  his  captors  sent  some 
distance  for  some  Boxers,  and  for  three  days  Chang  lay 
in  prison.  Then  he  was  bound  and  taken  through  the 
town  in  an  open  cart,  the  Christians  following  behind, 
and  marvelling  at  his  fortitude  as  he  joyfully  sang  the 
old  hymn  learned  in  the  Moukden  hospital,  “ Jesus  loves 
me,  this  I know.”  Outside  the  town,  in  front  of  the 
temple,  he  was  made  to  kneel  down.  “ Heavenly  Father, 
receive  my  spirit,”  he  prayed.  But  still  the  sword  tarried. 
A second  and  a third  time  he  prayed,  saying  the  same 
words.  Then  “ they  gnashed  on  him  with  their  teeth, 
and  cried  out  with  a loud  voice,  and  ran  upon  him  with 
one  accord,”  attacking  him  from  behind  with  their 
swords,  and  cutting  him  to  pieces. 

When  the  deed  was  done,  the  superstitious  fears  of  the 
murderers  began  to  work.  He  was  a blind  man,  and 
therefore  specially  under  the  protection  of  spirits  and 
demons.  And  what  did  he  mean  by  “ rising  again  ” ? 
To  prevent  such  a possibility  they  burned  his  body,  and 
scattered  the  ashes  on  the  mountain  streams.  Still  their 
fears  were  not  laid.  He  was  a good  man,  so  much  so  that 
he  might  become  a god.  His  ghost  was  said  to  be  haunt- 
ing the  place,  and  the  Boxers  departed  precipitately, 
leaving  the  Christians  of  that  district  unharmed. 

Some  years  later  the  Government  erected  a monument 
to  Chang’s  memory  in  the  county  town  of  that  district, 
but  none  marks  the  resting-place  of  his  ashes,  for  they  are 
scattered  afar,  fit  emblem  of  the  Gospel  he  loved  to 
preach.  Indeed,  he  and  the  other  martyrs  have  already 
“ risen  again,”  in  the  many  churches  and  little  Christian 
gatherings  which  have  sprung  up  all  over  Manchuria 
since  that  terrible  Boxer  summer. 


XV 


MISDIRECTED  PATRIOTISM 


“ Who  is  here  so  vile  that  will  not  love  his  country  ? ’* 

Julius  CcBsar. 


“ My  large  kingdom  for  a grave  ! 

A little,  little  grave,  an  obscure  grave.” 

King  Richard  II. 


HEN  the  war  with  J apan  was  over,  Manchuria  and 


all  China  expected  to  settle  down  again  just  as 
before,  while  many  of  her  more  vigorous  sons  sought  to 
nurture  a gradual  and  quiet  reform  from  within,  which 
might  in  time  work  upwards  to  the  Government,  and  out- 
wards to  the  whole  nation.  But  this  was  not  to  be.  The 
war  had  set  many  conflicting  forces  in  motion,  its  conse- 
quences have  been  multiplying  ever  since,  and  none  can 
foretell  the  end. 

Simultaneous  with  the  striking  growth  of  the  Christian 
Church  in  Manchuria,  and  with  the  new  interest  in  science 
and  in  all  things  foreign,  were  development  in  other  direc- 
tions. Manchuria  did  not  greatly  concern  herself  at  that 
time  with  what  went  on  in  Peking  or  elsewhere,  but  she 
soon  had  it  brought  home  to  her  in  her  own  borders  that 
things  could  never  be  the  same  again.  Russian  diplomacy 
prevented  Japan  from  retaining  possession  of  Southern 
Manchuria,  and  Li  Hung  Chang , said  by  his  enemies  to  be 
in  Russia’s  pay,  could  hardly  refuse  to  negotiate  a Treaty 
which  expressed  China’s  gratitude  in  a practical  way. 
All  Russia  asked  at  first  was  to  be  allowed  to  run  the 
Siberian  railway  across  the  north  of  Manchuria.  That  was 
the  beginning. 


123 


124 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


In  Moukden  little  was  heard  of  it  for  some  time. 
Russian  engineers  surveyed  and  made  maps  and  went 
away  again,  and  it  was  reported  that  they  were  making  a 
railway  over  the  desert  mountains  in  the  far  north. 
Gradually  people  grew  accustomed  to  Russian  visits, 
but  when  the  news  spread  that  Port  Arthur  and  Ta-lien- 
wan  (Dalny)  had  been  “ leased  ” to  Russia,  and  that  the 
railway  was  to  run  right  through  the  heart  of  Manchuria, 
there  was  much  fierce  indignation,  and  cursing  of  Li 
Hung  Chang.  The  seizure  of  Kiao-chou  in  Shantung  by  the 
Germans  shortly  before,  hardly  noticed  at  the  time,  and 
the  occupation  of  Wei-hai-wei  by  Britain  which  followed, 
assumed  importance  in  men’s  eyes,  enlightened  as  they 
were  by  Russia’s  action  in  their  midst.  Parts  of  the 
country  were  being  stolen  on  all  hands,  and  a bitterness 
against  foreigners  grew  and  fermented  in  the  minds  of 
many  in  Manchuria,  as  well  as  all  over  Northern  China. 

There  were  thus  two  streams  of  feeling  and  impulse 
developing  at  the  same  time.  Both  had  their  origin  in 
the  first  conscious  stirrings  of  that  patriotism  which  had 
lain  dormant  in  the  Chinese  mind,  but  was  roused  by  the 
humiliation  of  the  defeat  by  Japan.  Both  were  intensified 
by  the  actions  of  the  European  Powers. 

On  the  one  hand  were  those  who  realized  China’s 
weakness,  and  who  sought  to  learn  everything  possible 
from  Western  nations,  in  order  ultimately  to  be  able  to 
resist  with  success  all  unjust  aggression,  and  to  stand 
unashamed  before  the  world,  a strong,  independent 
China. 

On  the  other  hand  were  those  in  wiiom  resentment  of 
foreign  treatment  of  China  grew  to  a passion,  who  blindly 
hated  all  foreigners,  good  or  bad,  and  all  their  works,  and 
who  were  willing  to  go  to  any  length  to  rid  their  country  of 
what  they  regarded  as  an  incubus  wilich  caused  all  her 
troubles. 

Between  these  were  the  old,  the  timid,  the  conservative, 
the  unadventurous,  and  the  great  inarticulate  mass  of  the 


MISDIRECTED  PATRIOTISM 


125 


common  people,  working  for  their  daily  bread,  asking  for 
nothing  but  to  be  allowed  to  earn  it  in  peace  and  security, 
and  recking  little  of  what  foreign  Powers  or  their  own 
Government  might  do. 

For  a time  it  seemed  as  if  the  forces  that  made  for 
Reform  were  to  have  the  ascendancy.  The  war  was  hardly 
over  when  the  Emperor  commanded  the  construction  of 
railways  from  Shanghai  to  Nanking,  and  from  Tientsin  to 
near  Peking,  and  instructed  his  ministers  to  further  the 
study  of  Western  science  throughout  the  country.  Later 
on  a railway  to  Hankow  was  sanctioned,  and  in  1898  the 
establishment  of  a University  at  Peking  on  foreign  lines, 
with  foreign  professors.  The  Emperor  was  privately 
studying  the  Bible  and  other  books,  Christian  and 
scientific,  and  insisted  on  close  personal  intercourse  with 
a number  of  progressive  Reformers,  such  as  had  hardly 
been  granted  previously  to  the  highest  Ministers  of 
State.  The  anti-foreign  agitation  following  on  the 
seizure  of  the  three  seaports,  Kiao-chou,  Port  Arthur,  and 
Wei-hai-wei,  he  answered  by  a vigorous  Imperial  Edict 
for  the  protection  of  missionaries,  in  which  the  officials 
were  instructed  to  see  that  his  Christian  subjects  did  not 
suffer  for  their  faith.  Many  among  the  younger  officials, 
literati , merchants,  and  gentry  followed  the  example  of 
the  Emperor.  There  was  a great  demand  for  all  kinds  of 
Christian  literature,  and  books  on  History,  Political 
Economy,  and  Science.  Newspapers  sprang  up  with  an 
enormous  circulation,  where  previously  few  had  cared  to 
know  what  was  happening  outside  their  own  neighbour- 
hood. 

Then  came  the  momentous  and  fatal  month  of  Sep- 
tember, 1898. 

For  three  crowded  weeks  there  poured  forth  a series 
of  most  remarkable  Edicts.  Education  was  to  be  modern- 
ized, science  and  other  subjects  introduced  into  the 
stereotyped  examinations  for  degrees,  temples  turned 
into  schools,  a University  and  Middle  Schools  established 


126 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


at  once,  and  study  abroad  encouraged.  The  throne  was 
to  be  freely  memorialized  even  by  the  common  people  ; 
annual  financial  statements  of  Government  income  and 
expenditure  were  to  be  published ; and  law-court  reform 
inaugurated.  Finally  the  question  of  a National  Parlia- 
ment was  raised,  and  it  was  also  suggested  that  the  nation 
should  abandon  the  ordinary  Chinese  dress,  and  the 
fashion  of  wearing  a queue,  imposed  by  the  Manchus. 

The  Emperor,  born  and  bred  in  absolute  seclusion  and 
knowing  nothing  of  the  world  outside  his  palace  except 
from  books,  revealed  himself  to  his  people  as  an  earnest 
and  radical  Reformer,  and  the  hearts  of  thousands  leaped 
to  meet  his.  But  the  millions  remained  untouched,  for 
the  customs  of  centuries  are  iron  chains.  It  is  a sad  story. 
We  cannot  but  wonder  what  would  have  been  the  history 
of  the  subsequent  years  had  the  Emperor  and  his  advisers 
been  more  worldly-wise,  content  to  “ hasten  slowly.” 

As  it  was,  the  old  Empress-Dowager  took  alarm  ; it 
was  not  for  this  she  had  yielded  the  reins  of  power. 
There  was  a short,  sharp  struggle  between  Reform  and  Re- 
action, and  Reaction  gained  the  day.  During  the  fourth 
week  of  September  all  the  Reform  Edicts  were  repealed, 
six  of  the  most  promising  and  enlightened  of  the  young 
patriots  of  China  were  summarily  executed,  others  fled 
to  foreign  lands,  and  the  Emperor  himself  was  immured 
in  a living  grave,  from  which  he  issued  only  at  stated  times 
to  give  mechanical  outward  support  to  the  absolute  rule 
of  the  Empress -Dowager.  It  was  a beautiful  spot,  that 
grave,  a quiet  tree-embowered  island  in  a picturesque 
lake,  concealed  in  the  very  centre  of  Peking,  with 
rockeries,  and  hidden  paths,  and  unexpected  rustic  seats. 
What  thoughts  did  he  think  there  under 

“ the  insufferable  eyes 
Of  these  poor  Might-Have-Beens, 

These  fatuous,  ineffectual  Yesterdays  ” ? 

It  was  long  before  any  accurate  knowledge  of  the  coup 
d'etat  in  Peking  was  allowed  to  reach  the  provinces.  The 


MISDIRECTED  PATRIOTISM 


127 


Reform  Edicts  had  been  received  with  consternation  by 
the  majority  of  officials,  to  whose  advantage  it  was  to  keep 
things  as  they  were,  and  their  speedy  repeal,  before  most 
people  had  heard  of  them,  naturally  gave  satisfaction. 
The  more  enlightened  of  the  reading  men,  especially  in 
the  cities,  sighed  bitterly  over  the  postponement  of  their 
hopes,  and  resigned  themselves  to  wait.  Reform  must 
come  some  day  ; for  as  one  of  the  martyred  Reformers 
had  said  : “ They  may  cut  the  grass,  but  the  roots 

remain.” 

The  defeat  of  the  Reform  Movement  did  not  leave 
things  where  they  had  been  before.  There  was  no  stand- 
ing still.  With  the  execution  of  the  Reformers  on  28  Sep- 
tember, 1908,  began  the  reactionary  movement  which 
culminated  in  the  Boxer  outbreak  of  1900. 

The  party  which  hated  foreigners  and  foreign  ways  was 
now  in  the  ascendancy,  and  the  change  of  attitude 
showed  itself  very  quickly.  The  metropolitan  province 
of  Chihli  reflected  with  special  readiness  the  feelings  of 
those  in  power  ; on  23  October  British  railway  engineers 
were  attacked  by  soldiers  on  the  railway  line  being 
constructed  between  Peking  and  Tientsin.  On  4 Novem- 
ber a missionary  was  murdered  in  Kuei-chou,  far 
inland  in  the  south-west.  On  5 November  an  Edict 
recommended  volunteer  military  organizations  in  all 
cities,  towns,  and  villages,  adding  : “ The  whole  country 
can  then  be  turned  into  a great  armed  camp,  to  fight  for 
their  homes.”  Foreigners  were  not  mentioned,  but  it  was 
understood  that  the  danger  to  be  guarded  against  was 
from  them. 

Constant  murmurings  against  foreigners  were  no  longer 
discouraged.  Their  seizure  of  the  three  northern  seaports, 
the  French  aggression  in  the  south,  Russian  aggression 
in  Manchuria,  German  aggression  in  Shantung,  the 
Italian  demand  for  a seaport,  the  extra-territorial  rights 
at  ports,  the  foreign  control  of  the  Customs,  the  foreign 
building  of  railways,  the  frequent  mention  in  foreign 


128 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


papers  of  a possible  “ partition  of  China  ” — all  these  were 
legitimate  grievances,  and  the  Government  in  its  present 
mood  was  only  too  willing  to  let  them  rankle  in  men’s 
minds.  The  scattering  of  so  many  foreign  missionaries 
through  the  country  was  also  an  irritant,  the  protec- 
tion of  Christianity  by  treaty  exasperated  the  officials, 
and  the  meddling  of  Christians,  especially  Catholics,  in 
law  affairs,  provoked  much  antagonism. 

Shantung,  the  proud  and  ancient  home  of  Confucius, 
was  particularly  bitter,  because  the  Germans  claimed  it 
as  their  “ sphere  of  influence,”  and  obtruded  themselves 
there.  They  had  taken  Kiao-chou  and  procured  the 
dismissal  of  the  Shantung  Governor  ; they  were  insisting 
on  making  a railway  through  the  province,  and  quarrelling 
over  it  with  the  next  Governor,  Yu  Hsien.  There  was 
an  ancient  secret  society  long  extinct  called  the  44  Righte- 
ous Harmony  Fists,”  parodied  by  someone  as  the 
“ Boxers.”  This  was  revived  with  the  Governor’s 
connivance,  in  connection  with  the  local  militia,  in  order 
to  work  the  ruin  of  the  foreigners  whom  he  hated.  He 
knew  the  Germans  were  seeking  his  downfall,  and,  as  he 
expected,  the  Peking  Government  bowed  to  their  will. 
Yu  Hsien  was  degraded — temporarily — but  he  left  behind 
him  the  dragon’s  teeth  sowed  in  the  soil  of  Shantung, 
which  sprang  up  in  that  anti-foreign  movement  which  was 
to  cost  China  and  the  world  so  dear. 

The  original  principle  of  this  “ Boxer  ” union  was  that 
its  members  were  to  be  so  possessed  by  patriotism  that 
the  gods  would  work  through  them,  giving  them  super- 
natural powers,  and  invulnerability  to  sword  or  fire. 
Their  motto,  expressed  in  four  comprehensive  mono- 
syllables, was  4 4 Exalt  the  Dynasty,  exterminate  the 
foreigner.” 

At  first  their  influence  was  merely  local.  Not  daring 
to  attack  the  44  foreign  devils,”  they  began  with  the 
44  secondary  devils,”  i.e.  Chinese  Christians,  both  Catholic 
and  Protestant,  looting  and  burning  their  homes,  holding 


MISDIRECTED  PATRIOTISM 


129 


their  persons  for  ransom,  and  sometimes  killing  them. 
Before  long  the  movement  spread  across  the  border  into 
Chihli , and  here  too  the  officials  took  no  public  notice. 
Gaining  courage  from  their  immunity  from  punishment, 
the  Boxers,  at  the  close  of  1899,  murdered  a missionary, 
and  all  that  winter  the  foreigners  dotted  over  Shantung 
and  Chihli,  chiefly  missionaries,  were  in  daily  danger  of 
their  lives. 

Looking  back,  it  seems  strange  how  little  it  was  realized 
what  was  going  on.  Those  on  the  spot  who  gave  warning 
were  considered  alarmists  ; for  the  Empress-Dowager  and 
her  Government  continued  to  give  fair  words  and  promises 
to  the  foreign  Ministers,  while  at  the  same  time,  as  we  now 
know,  secretly  encouraging  the  Boxers.  In  March,  1900, 
Yu  Hsien , the  degraded,  was  made  Governor  of  Shan-si, 
and  soon  the  Boxers  began  to  be  active  in  that  province 
also.  During  the  spring  an  Imperial  Envoy  was  sent 
through  the  provinces,  jokingly  styled  the  “ Lord  High 
Extortioner,”  to  raise  money  for  the  equipment  of  the 
local  militia  whose  organization  had  been  commanded, 
and  wherever  Boxers  existed  they  and  this  militia  were 
one. 

What  was  lightly  called  “ the  unrest  ” was  spreading. 
Boatmen  and  carters  joined  in  large  and  vindictive 
numbers,  because  their  living  was  endangered  by  steam- 
launches  and  the  railway.  There  had  been  a bad  harvest 
in  1899,  and  it  was  said  that  the  foreigners  had  prevented 
the  rain,  so  very  many  of  the  agricultural  population 
joined  also.  There  was  no  sudden  outbreak,  but  outrages 
became  week  by  week  more  common  and  more  daring. 
Mission  buildings  were  looted,  telegraph  wires  cut,  a 
Catholic  village  attacked  by  two  thousand  men,  two 
Chinese  preachers  were  openly  murdered,  railway  stations 
were  burned,  the  railway  torn  up,  foreign  houses  burned. 
Still  the  Government  made  plausible  excuses. 

Then  on  1 June  two  missionaries  were  deliberately 
murdered,  and  a few  days  later  the  railway  service  on  the 


130 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Peking  line  completely  ceased.  At  last  there  arose  a 
consciousness  that  the  danger  was  general  and  urgent, 
the  Government  not  to  be  trusted.  The  missionaries  in 
Peking  took  refuge  in  the  Legations,  and  Admiral  Sey- 
mour, with  two  thousand  allied  troops,  left  Tientsin  for 
Peking  on  10  June.  It  was  supposed  by  most  people  that 
this  was  all  that  was  needed  to  put  things  right. 

In  Manchuria  all  was  quiet,  and  very  little  general 
anti-foreign  feeling  existed.  For  the  most  part,  the 
people  knew  personally  of  only  one  kind  of  foreigner,  the 
missionary,  who  was  regarded  as  doing  no  harm  but  rather 
good.  There  were  the  Russians  also,  but  they  were  dis- 
tinctly different  as  they  came  from  the  north,  while  the 
missionaries  came  from  the  west  by  Shanghai.  The  rail- 
way had  gradually  taken  shape,  being  built  in  sections, 
on  some  of  which  construction  trains  were  running. 
Superstitious  prejudices  had  prevented  its  coming  closer 
to  Moukden  than  about  ten  miles,  lest  the  Imperial 
Tombs  be  disturbed  and  the  prosperity  of  the  dynasty 
destroyed.  The  Russian  railway  and  the  presence  of 
Russians  were  sullenly  accepted  as  facts  which  could  be 
neither  denied  nor  altered.  The  only  thing  to  be  done 
was  to  make  the  best  use  of  them  possible,  and  take  one’s 
journeys  by  train. 

Little  was  heard  of  the  Boxers,  and  no  interest  taken  in 
their  doings.  There  were  floating  rumours,  and  we  read 
of  them  in  our  weekly  Shanghai  paper,  feeling  thankful 
that  we  had  no  such  troubles  here. 

Our  Annual  Meetings  were  held  in  May.  The  Presby- 
tery was  composed  of  Chinese  and  foreigners,  pastors  and 
elders,  to  the  number  of  about  a hundred.  The  reports 
from  all  over  Manchuria  had  never  been  more  encouraging. 
The  membership  was  increasing,  schools  multiplying,  the 
education  of  women  and  girls  developing  steadily ; 
several  congregations  wished  to  support  ordained  pastors 
of  their  own  ; and  the  subscriptions  of  the  Church  for 
its  own  ordinances,  pastors,  evangelists,  etc.,  were  $20,000, 


MISDIRECTED  PATRIOTISM 


131 


or  about  £2000  sterling,  although  $5  (10s.)  a month  was 
considered  quite  a good  wage  for  a man.  Plans  for 
further  development  were  discussed,  and  the  members 
departed  in  high  spirits  to  their  various  homes,  little 
thinking  that  within  a few  weeks  they  would  be  hiding 
in  the  dens  and  caves  of  the  earth,  or  laying  down  their 
lives  for  their  faith. 

Ten  days  later,  about  sixty  merchants,  many  of  them 
Christians,  met  in  the  hospital  waiting-room  to  consider 
the  question  of  supporting  beds  in  the  hospital.  Nearly 
enough  was  subscribed  and  promised  annually  to  support 
two  beds,  and  plans  were  discussed  for  approaching  the 
more  wealthy  merchants  of  the  city. 

On  30  May  a terrible  explosion  took  place  in  the 
barracks  west  of  the  city.  An  hour  later,  two  riders 
galloped  furiously  to  the  hospital  gate,  bringing  the  cards 
of  the  Governor-General,  His  Excellency  Tseng  Chi , and 
the  military  commander,  both  of  whom  were  Manchus  of 
the  reactionary  party,  who  had  hitherto  had  no  dealings 
with  the  hospital.  They  now  requested  that  we  would 
receive  and  treat  the  injured  men.  Soon  these  arrived, 
eleven  in  all,  and  later  on  I went  to  the  scene  of  the  acci- 
dent and  attended  to  the  injuries  of  about  thirty  more. 
The  officers  and  the  Government  were  most  cordial  over 
this  matter.  The  Commander,  or  Lieutenant-General, 
sent  a complimentary  present,  and  the  Governor-General 
himself  a cordial  message  that  he  hoped  soon  to  call  and 
thank  us  in  person.  For  about  a fortnight  streams  of 
officers  came  to  the  hospital,  to  visit  the  men,  see  the 
place,  and  express  their  gratitude. 

There  now  began  to  be  much  talk  of  the  Boxers,  but  as 
an  outside  thing,  in  which  Manchuria  was  little  con- 
cerned. Then  on  10  June  the  news  was  passed  from 
mouth  to  mouth,  “ The  Boxers  have  come  ! ” A few 
Shantung  leaders  had  arrived,  and  were  seeking  to  gain 
recruits.  They  began  their  drill,  but  received  little 
encouragement.  All  respectable  people  condemned  them 


132 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


utterly,  and  they  only  made  way  in  the  lowest  quarters 
of  the  city,  where  beggars,  desperadoes,  and  outcasts 
congregate,  who  are  at  all  times  ready  for  any  adventure 
promising  gain. 

Telegraphic  communication  with  Tientsin  and  Shanghai 
was  interrupted,  and  so  unconscious  of  approaching 
trouble  were  foreigners  and  Chinese  alike,  that  on  the 
14th — at  the  time  when  hundreds  were  being  massacred 
in  Peking,  and  Admiral  Seymour  was  struggling  in  vain 
to  reach  that  city — our  little  missionary  community  went 
for  a picnic  to  the  banks  of  the  Hun  River,  where  the 
children  plashed  in  the  water  and  played  on  the  sand, 
and  we  had  tea  happily  under  the  shady  trees. 


XVI 

THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


“ Quem  Dens  vult  perdere,  prius  dementat.” 

“ Whom  the  gods  would  destroy,  they  first  make  mad.” 

“ God  is  sad  in  Heaven 
To  think  what  goes  on  in  His  recreant  world, 

He  made  quite  other.” 

Aurora  Leigh. 

MEN  live  peacefully,  buying  and  selling,  marrying 
and  giving  in  marriage,  working  together  in  all 
amity,  when  suddenly  there  is  a change.  Human  beings 
are  hunted  like  partridges  on  the  hills,  a blind  fury 
possesses  men’s  minds,  bloodshed,  fire,  and  hate.  What 
does  it  all  mean  ? 

The  public  injuries  of  China  at  the  hands  of  foreigners 
were  very  real,  but  they  are  not  enough  to  account  for  it, 
for  this  is  a country  which  had  always  left  thought  of 
such  matters  to  its  officials. 

The  general  contempt  for  and  hatred  of  foreigners  were 
also  very  real,  and  the  resentment  at  the  steady  increase 
of  those  who  “ followed  the  foreigner  ” in  religion  was 
widespread.  It  is  true  that  no  religious  fanaticism 
existed,  which  would  be  roused  by  any  suggestion  of 
replacing  the  gods  to  whom  people  were  devoted  by  new 
objects  of  worship,  for  few  were  devoted  to  any  god. 
The  objection  to  Christianity  was  that  it  was  foreign. 
Men  holding  to  what  was  handed  down  by  their  fore- 
fathers were  indignant  that  any  alien  faith  should  gain 
foothold.  These  feelings  and  prejudices,  however,  had 
lasted  for  decades,  and  were  easily  controlled.  The  very 


133 


134 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


province  where  the  Boxers  had  their  origin,  Shantung, 
was  compelled  by  its  new  Governor,  Yuan  shih  kai,  to 
cease  all  open  agitation,  and  no  foreigner  was  killed  within 
its  borders. 

Here  in  Manchuria  the  weakness  of  the  resentment  at 
these  things  was  specially  marked.  Japanese  conquest 
and  Russian  aggression  had  been  submitted  to  with  no 
thought  of  resistance.  Anti-foreign  feeling  had  died  down 
almost  entirely.  Some  forty  thousand  of  the  people  of 
the  two  southern  provinces  were  professed  Christians, 
or  in  Christian  families,  or  occasional  attenders  of  Chris- 
tian worship,  besides  as  many  Catholics.  For  the  most 
part  these  people  lived  on  friendly  terms  with  all  around, 
though  here  and  there  persecution  still  existed.  It 
seemed  impossible,  alike  to  foreigners,  to  Chinese  Chris- 
tians, and  to  the  general  public  in  Manchuria,  that  any 
danger  could  threaten  us  and  the  Church  and  especially 
the  hospital.  Even  the  day  before  every  foreign  building 
in  Moukden  was  burned,  a high  official  said  to  my 
assistant : 

“ Why  did  the  doctor  leave  ? He  was  quite  safe  here. 
No  one  would  touch  him  or  the  hospital.” 

There  wTere  two  features  of  the  Boxer  Movement 
which  made  it  possible  so  to  intensify  the  existing  anti- 
foreign  resentment  as  to  cause  deeds  of  fanatic  cruelty 
to  be  done  in  province  after  province.  One  was  the  occult 
nature  of  the  Boxer  rites  and  claims  ; the  other  the 
support  given  by  the  Empress -Dowager  and  her  Govern- 
ment. Without  these  the  Boxers  would  have  prevailed 
nothing. 

Their  power  over  the  people  seems  at  first  to  have 
depended  largely  on  mesmerism.  Strange  movements, 
passes,  and  contortions  were  practised  until  the  devotee 
fell  down  in  a fit  or  trance,  sometimes  uttering  unknown 
words  and  uncouth  sounds,  said  to  be  the  language  of 
the  spirits  which  now  entered  into  him.  When  he  rose 
he  was  a true  Boxer,  and  invulnerable.  Superstition  and 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


135 


imitation  worked  also  on  the  susceptible  nervous  tempera- 
ment of  the  Chinese,  and  many  fell  down  because  they 
believed  they  would,  and  because  their  neighbours  did. 
There  was  a butcher  who  joined  them,  a big  broad- 
shouldered  heavy  man.  When  he  fell,  overcome  by 
hypnotism,  hysteria,  or  excitement,  he  struck  his  head 
violently  against  a stone,  fractured  his  skull,  and  never 
moved  again. 

At  the  beginning  in  Moukden  the  Boxer  numbers 
increased  very  slowly  in  spite  of  their  mysterious  powers, 
for  the  Governor-General  had  personally  no  sympathy 
with  their  aims,  and  issued  a proclamation  against  them. 
But  the  day  after  our  light-hearted  picnic,  the  news  came 
of  the  destruction  of  the  railways  in  Chihli  and  the  burning 
of  mission  stations.  Several  Belgians  were  said  to  have 
been  killed,  and  the  worst  was  feared  for  the  missionaries 
shut  up  in  Pao-ting-fu  and  elsewhere.  (They  were  actually 
massacred  a fortnight  later.)  Uneasiness  and  fear  began 
to  spread  through  Moukden.  Service  was  held  on  Sunday, 
.17  June,  as  usual,  and  opinion  among  the  Christians  was 
divided.  Some  laughed  at  the  idea  of  anything  happening, 
— what  power  could  such  impostors  have  ? Many  shook 
their  heads  and  “ doubted  whereunto  this  would  grow  ” — 
was  not  Satan  himself  the  evil  spirit  who  entered  into  these 
Boxers  in  their  trance  ? 

That  night  we  heard  of  Admiral  Seymour’s  advance  on 
Peking  of  a week  before.  It  was  our  last  reliable  news  for 
days,  and  like  foreigners  elsewhere,  we  assumed  that 
this  would  speedily  make  an  end  of  the  trouble. 

The  apathetic  attitude  of  the  Moukden  Government  to 
the  Boxers  now  became  very  evident.  The  proclamations 
against  them  were  openly  scribbled  on.  Their  drill  was 
practised  unchecked  in  open  spaces  in  the  city.  Their 
emissaries  were  in  all  market-places  and  wherever  men 
congregated.  It  was  said  that  no  beggars  were  left  in 
the  slums,  all  had  become  Boxers.  Many  young  lads  and 
boys  swelled  the  ranks,  eager  for  excitement,  and  they 


136 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


were  joined  by  hundreds  of  members  of  secret  sects  such 
as  the  Tsai-li-ti , who  had  always  been  anti-foreign.  In 
several  of  the  many  barracks  the  cursing  of  foreigners 
became  open  and  violent,  and  there  were  loud  boasts 
of  what  the  Boxers  were  going  to  do.  Gradually  a spell 
of  fear  was  laid  on  all  the  city.  Level-headed  men  spoke 
of  them  with  bated  breath.  Their  aims  and  objects  were 
not  sympathized  with,  but  their  supernatural  powers 
came  to  be  believed  in,  and  people  were  afraid. 

Placards  were  posted  on  the  walls  and  passed  from 
hand  to  hand,  telling  of  the  evil  doings  of  foreigners  to 
China,  from  the  introduction  of  opium  to  the  seizing  of 
seaports,  including  the  poisoning  of  wells  and  the  killing 
of  little  children.  Many  thought  it  dangerous  even  to 
possess  foreign  things.  It  was  said  that  foreign  buttons 
were  bewitched,  the  proof  being  that  they  could  burn, 
whereas  true  buttons  were  metal  or  bone.  In  our  own 
kitchen  our  cook  was  found  taking  the  buttons  off  his  robe, 
while  others  in  consternation  watched  them  burn.  They 
were  harmless  things  of  German  manufacture,  not  pro- 
fessing to  be  metal.  On  Wednesday  the  20th,  vile  posters 
were  put  up  everywhere  with  horrible  charges  against 
foreigners,  and  all  the  loyal  people  of  China  were  called 
on  to  rise  up  and  sweep  them  out  of  the  land.  The  24th 
was  fixed  for  the  burning  of  the  buildings,  and  rewards 
were  promised  to  all  who  helped. 

Next  morning  I wrote  to  the  Governor-General, 
enclosing  a copy  of  the  placard  and  pointing  out  the 
danger  of  allowing  this  agitation  to  continue.  His  tardy 
reply  was  cold,  formal,  and  altogether  unsatisfactory,  a 
remarkable  contrast  to  his  friendly  message  of  three  weeks 
before.  We  learned  later  the  meaning  of  this.  Although 
the  public  telegraph  wires  beyond  Newchwang  were  cut, 
there  remained  a private  Government  line  direct  from 
Peking  to  Moukden ; so  the  Governor-General  knew 
what  we  did  not,  that  the  Taku  forts  had  been  taken 
by  the  Allied  Fleet,  that  Tientsin  was  being  bombarded 


ENTRANCE  TO  MOD  K DEN  HOSPITAL  UEKORE  1IOXER  TIME 


' 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


137 


by  Boxers  and  Imperial  troops  combined,  that  the 
German  Minister  in  Peking  had  been  killed,  and  that  the 
Legations  were  even  then  being  besieged.  He  had  also 
received  the  Imperial  Edict  commanding  the  extermina- 
tion of  foreigners,  and  the  Lieutenant-General  was 
insisting  on  its  publication  and  obedience  to  the  letter. 
H.E.  Tseng  Chi  was  not  a strong  enough  man  either  to 
disobey,  as  was  done  in  some  provinces,  or  to  obey 
promptly.  He  did  not  wish  to  kill  us,  and  he  did  not  dare 
to  warn  us  ; so  it  was  truest  kindness  to  write  in  this 
callous,  formal  way,  that  we  might  be  frightened  into 
leaving  while  yet  there  was  time. 

We  regarded  the  sudden  change  in  his  attitude  as  a 
serious  matter,  and  discussed  the  advisability  of  ladies 
and  children  going  away  for  a time.  The  same  evening 
an  official  friend  called  in  plain  clothes,  on  foot,  and  after 
dark,  to  urge  earnestly  that  we  should  leave  without  any 
delay. 

“ The  Governor-General  has  news  from  Peking,”  he 
said,  “ which  makes  this  necessary.  I cannot  tell  you 
what  it  is,  but  the  order  has  been  given  to-day  that  two 
camps  of  Imperial  troops  in  Moukden  are  to  drill  as  Boxers.” 
This  was  the  most  serious  news  we  had  yet  heard.  Still 
we  were  confident  that  the  Government  in  Peking  would 
speedily  be  compelled  by  Admiral  Seymour  to  change  its 
attitude,  and  that  counter-orders  would  soon  come  and 
matters  return  to  their  old  peaceful  condition. 

Friday  was  spent  in  making  arrangements  for  the 
departure  of  our  entire  community  except  three  men. 
By  5.30  a.m.  on  Saturday  all  had  left,  taking  with  them 
summer  clothing  and  such  things  as  could  be  hastily 
gathered  together  for  what  might  be  an  absence  of  a 
month  or  two.  It  was  a strange  journey.  The  party 
consisted  of  two  men,  eight  ladies,  and  five  children. 
No  regular  trains  were  running,  one  might  get  one  at  once 
or  wait  a whole  day,  and  there  were  no  passenger  car- 
riages. The  refugees  were  accommodated  in  empty 


138 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


covered  trucks,  where  for  over  two  days  and  two  nights 
they  lived,  slept,  and  ate.  At  first  there  was  a feeling  of 
shame  at  having  “ run  away.”  The  burning  of  houses 
had  been  threatened  so  often  and  nothing  had  come  of 
it,  and  it  seemed  absurd  to  think  of  China  defying  the 
world.  Then  news  met  them  that  Admiral  Seymour’s 
force  was  surrounded  by  tens  of  thousands  of  Boxers 
and  soldiers,  and  its  annihilation  feared,  that  Tientsin 
was  in  ruins,  and  that  the  survivors  of  the  foreign  com- 
munity there  were  gathered  in  the  Town  Hall  where  they 
were  being  shelled.  (This  was  really  a gross  exaggeration.) 

We  were  now  only  three  in  Moukden,  but  it  soon  became 
evident  that  we  too  must  leave.  When  I returned  from 
escorting  the  party  to  the  station,  the  streets  were 
already  full  of  excited  men,  and  the  shops  mostly  remained 
closed. 

“ Why  did  you  come  back  ? ” “ How  did  you  dare  ? ” 
I was  asked  again  and  again,  for  it  was  now  known 
publicly  that  the  soldiers  were  to  become  Boxers,  and 
groups  of  lads  were  drilling  in  every  corner.  On  Sunday, 
the  24th,  the  day  proclaimed  for  the  burning,  we  went  to 
church  as  usual,  arranging  that  horses  should  await  us 
in  the  compound  for  escape  in  case  of  need.  A large  crowd 
gathered  at  the  church  gate,  among  whom  were  a few 
soldiers,  but  there  was  no  attempt  at  disturbance.  Over 
four  hundred  Christians  gathered,  and  earnest  were  the 
prayers  that  went  up  for  strength,  guidance,  and  protec- 
tion. The  last  hymn  sung  was  “ Soldiers  of  the  Lord, 
arise  ! ” an  adaptation  of  “ Scots  wha  hae.”  Then  the 
congregation  quietly  dispersed,  to  meet  again  no  more  for 
months,  and  then  but  a broken  fragment. 

During  the  day  things  grew  rapidly  worse.  Inflamma- 
tory placards  on  Imperial  yellow  paper  were  boldly 
affixed  on  the  city  gates.  A report  was  circulated  that 
all  the  foreign  ships  near  Tientsin  had  been  sunk.  One 
of  our  preaching -chapels  in  the  city  was  sacked.  The 
Imperial  Edict  for  the  extermination  of  foreigners  was 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


139 


at  last  issued,  and  2500  taels  were  promised  for  every 
“ devil  ” killed,  500  taels  for  every  “ devil’s  slave,”  or 
Chinese  Christian.  The  hospital  patients  began  to  be 
alarmed,  and  many  left.  The  news  about  Admiral 
Seymour  and  Tientsin  reached  us,  and  a telegram  from 
Newchwang  urging  us  to  leave  at  once.  We  gathered 
some  of  our  most  trusted  helpers  to  consult  as  to  what 
should  be  done.  They  sat  in  silence  with  bowed  heads 
for  some  time,  then  one  said  : 

“ If  you  remain,  we  will  stand  by  you,  and  we’ll  all  die 
together.  If  you  go,  your  lives  will  be  saved,  and  we 
can  look  after  our  families  and  ourselves.” 

On  Monday  morning  at  dawn  we  slipped  away  in 
closely  curtained  carts,  and  without  delay  got  a truck 
in  a train  going  south.  I tried  to  warn  the  Russian 
stationmaster  of  the  danger.  He  understood,  but 
indicated  that  he  could  not  leave  his  station.  He  was 
seized  by  the  Boxers  a few  days  later,  tortured,  and 
killed.  It  was  well  we  left  then,  for  next  day  a bridge 
was  blown  up,  and  no  more  trains  went  south.  There 
were  other  parts  of  Manchuria  where  the  missionaries 
did  not  get  away  so  easily,  but  all  did  escape,  some  amid 
difficulty  and  danger.  Several  had  their  health  per- 
manently injured,  and  two  died  from  the  shock  and 
strain. 

Letters  from  my  assistants  continued  to  reach  New- 
chwang for  several  days.  Trade  was  at  a standstill,  all 
shops  closed,  patients  diminishing,  but  still  a few  re- 
mained. On  Wednesday  the  Bible  Society  premises  were 
looted.  On  Saturday  evening,  30  June,  I received  the 
following  telegram  : 

“ About  four  o’clock  to-day  the  church  was  burned, 
and  the  hospitals  and  houses  are  burning.  It  is  not 
known  whether  the  Pastor  is  dead  or  alive,  nor  how 
many  Christians  have  been  killed.” 

Next  morning  came  another,  sent  off  two  hours  later  : 


140 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ Men’s  and  women’s  hospitals,  dwelling-houses, 
Bible  Society  buildings,  church,  and  chapels  have  all 
been  burned  to  ashes  by  the  Boxers.” 

That  was  our  last  voice  from  Moukden,  then  silence 
fell  and  darkness  hid  from  us  all  that  was  happening 
there.  We  could  not  stay  in  Newchwang,  but  scattered 
to  Japan,  Shanghai,  or  home.  In  Japan  we  spent  two 
weary,  sad  months,  getting  no  news,  indeed,  from  inland 
Manchuria,  but  hearing  terrible  stories  of  sufferings  and 
martyrdoms  elsewhere,  and  imagining  only  too  vividly 
like  trials  for  our  own  people.  From  the  detailed  accounts 
heard  later,  we  can  reconstruct  the  story  of  those  days 
and  months. 

It  was  two  o’clock  on  the  afternoon  of  Saturday, 
30  June.  In  the  men’s  hospital  several  patients  still 
remained  ; the  last  of  the  seventy  or  eighty  out-patients 
who  came  daily  had  been  seen  by  my  assistant,  Dr.  Wei, 
and  all  was  quiet  on  the  Small  River  bank.  Nearly  a 
mile  away,  close  to  the  church,  was  the  Manse,  where 
lived  with  his  family  Pastor  Liu , for  years  the  leader  of 
the  Moukden  congregation.  Hearing  a rabble  at  the  big 
gate,  he  went  to  it  and  “ spoke  reason  ” to  them,  reproving 
the  many  boys  who  had  gathered.  After  he  had  shut  the 
gate,  sticks  and  stones  began  to  fly,  and  he  soon  saw  that 
matters  were  becoming  serious.  Returning  home  he  got 
his  wife,  children,  and  grandchildren,  with  what  things 
they  could  easily  remove,  over  a wall  into  the  house  of  a 
neighbouring  Christian  ; while  he  himself  proposed  to  go 
to  the  Governor-General  to  seek  protection  for  the 
church. 

As  he  dropped  from  the  wall  he  heard  the  smashing 
of  windows,  then  the  crash  of  the  big  gate  giving  way,  and 
the  shouts  of  the  mob  as  they  poured  in.  From  a spot 
where  he  could  watch  all  that  was  done,  he  saw  that  this 
was  more  than  a disorderly  crowd.  Two  officials,  wearing 
their  official  “ buttons,”  were  directing,  and  under  them 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


141 


were  about  a hundred  soldiers.  Realizing  the  uselessness 
of  appealing  to  a Government  which  was  itself  aiding 
the  destruction,  he  watched  these  two  men  enter  his 
house,  examine  things  there,  and  then  let  in  the  crowd 
to  work  their  will.  Large  bundles  of  millet-stalk  were 
brought  and  thrown  into  the  church,  among  piled-up 
heaps  of  forms,  a tin  of  kerosene  oil  wTas  poured  over  all, 
and  in  a few  minutes  the  flames  burst  forth,  while  from 
the  great  crowd  in  and  around  the  compound  went  up  a 
fierce  yell  of  applause. 

“Foreigners  are  done  with  now!”  was  the  shout, 
but  a few  turned  away,  groaning  that  this  was  the 
beginning  of  the  destruction  of  China.  The  quiet,  law- 
abiding  majority  of  the  population  were  shut  up  in  their 
homes  that  day,  and  the  lawless  minority  had  their  way* 
This  was  their  hour  and  the  power  of  darkness.  A little 
later  came  a terrible  crash,  and  the  great  tower  fell,  some 
of  the  bricks  striking  the  house  where  the  pastor’s  family 
and  their  friends  were  huddled  together  in  terror.  Then 
there  was  a cry  : “To  the  south  suburb  ! ” (the  Catholic 
Mission).  “ To  the  east  suburb  ! ” (the  hospitals  and 
houses).  And  the  great  crowd  divided,  soldiers  accom- 
panying each  part. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  and  other  buildings 
were  surrounded  by  a high  massive  wall,  and  when  the 
crowd  began  to  attack  the  gate  they  were  fired  on  from 
inside.  A few  were  wounded,  and  the  others  quickly 
scattered. 

Before  the  Small  River  bank  was  reached,  most  of  the 
assistants  and  caretakers  there  and  the  few  remaining 
patients  had  already  fled  for  their  fives  ; but  Dr.  Wei, 
hoping  that  the  hospital  might  be  spared,  prepared  to 
receive  the  unwelcome  guests.  While  the  women’s  hos- 
pital, the  five  houses,  and  the  girls’  school  were  being 
looted,  a party  came  to  the  men’s  hospital  also.  Dr.  Wei 
met  them  at  the  gate  and  spoke  politely,  appealing  to 
them  to  protect  the  good  work  which  was  done  there. 


142 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


They  listened  and  went  away,  but  a few  minutes  later  a 
larger  company  burst  in.  He  invited  them  to  drink  tea, 
but  they  roughly  thrust  him  aside,  and  more  and  more 
crowded  in,  smashing  windows  and  bottles,  and  picking 
up  anything  they  fancied.  He  soon  saw  it  was  hopeless, 
and  was  afraid  to  make  himself  conspicuous,  but  he  hung 
about  until  he  saw  the  flames,  and  then  went  straight 
to  the  telegraph  office  to  send  me  word. 

The  whole  premises  were  thoroughly  searched  before 
burning,  and  an  articulated  skeleton  was  found,  bought 
in  Edinburgh,  also  a valuable  papier  mache  model  of  the 
human  frame,  which  had  cost  about  £100,  used  for 
teaching  anatomy  to  my  students.  These  were  taken 
away  and  were  paraded  through  the  city  later  as  a proof 
of  the  evil  doings  of  the  foreigners,  for  the  manikin  was 
supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  a human  being.  In  our 
house  was  found  a mandarin’s  official  “ button,”  pre- 
sented to  me  along  with  official  robes  when  I received  the 
Order  of  the  Double  Dragon.  We  had  evidently  killed  an 
official,  for  “ Here  is  his  button,  all  that  is  left  of  him ! ” 

That  same  evening  the  Irish  Mission  buildings  at  the 
west  side  of  the  city  and  the  Bible  Society  premises  were 
burned,  and  the  six  preaching-chapels  throughout  the 
city  burned  or  looted.  The  Christians  soon  realized  that 
their  one  chance  of  escape  was  while  the  Boxers  were 
occupied  in  the  destruction  of  property.  When  that  was 
over  attention  was  turned  on  them,  but  they  were  not  to 
be  found.  Almost  every  Christian  home  in  Moukden  was 
empty  that  night,  and  by  morning  all  were  looted  and 
many  burned.  Then  began  the  Reign  of  Terror,  which 
rapidly  spread  all  over  the  country. 

The  Lieutenant-Governor,  Commander  of  the  army, 
threw  himself  with  zeal  into  the  task  of  exterminating  all 
trace  of  foreign  existence.  The  soldiers  were  employed 
to  help  the  Boxers,  who,  however,  remained  a separate 
organization,  their  numbers  being  swelled  by  all  who 
were  eager  for  loot.  The  Russians  were  completely  taken 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


143 


by  surprise.  Many  of  the  railway  men  were  killed.  A 
party  of  engineers  fought  their  way  north  from  Tieling, 
generously  escorting  a number  of  Catholics  and  a Pro- 
testant missionary.  All  the  northern  missionaries  were 
helped  to  escape  by  the  Russians.  Parties  of  soldiers  and 
Boxers  were  dispatched  to  city  after  city,  town  after 
town,  and  even  to  villages  and  glens.  One  after  another 
every  church,  hospital,  school,  and  foreign  house  was 
burned,  and  many  Christians  were  killed.  In  Moukden 
attention  was  for  a few  days  concentrated  on  the  Roman 
Catholics.  The  Governor-General  did  not  want  to  kill 
the  French  priests,  and  offered  them  escort  to  New- 
chwang  ; but  as  the  Lieutenant-Governor  was  eager  to 
obey  the  Edict,  it  is  unlikely  that  safe  escort  would  have 
been  possible.  In  any  case  they  refused  to  leave,  and 
strengthened  themselves  in  their  Cathedral  compound, 
where  it  is  said  that  they  armed  several  hundred  of  their 
people. 

Just  at  this  time  the  Governor-General,  Tseng  Chi , in 
his  heart  disliking  the  Boxers,  arranged  with  an  en- 
lightened military  officer  a plan  to  discredit  them.  He 
invited  some  of  their  leaders  to  a banquet,  pretending  to 
be  very  cordial. 

“ There  are  many,”  he  said,  after  congratulating  them 
on  the  marvels  they  could  do,  “ who  do  not  believe  in 
your  miraculous  powers,  and  we  must  convince  them 
that  you  are  really  protected  by  the  spirits.  Let  us  have 
a public  demonstration  of  your  invulnerability.” 

The  Boxers  agreed,  and  in  presence  of  a vast  crowd 
a row  of  a dozen  stood  up  to  be  shot  at.  Their  leaders 
had  arranged  blank  cartridges,  so  not  a man  fell. 

“ That  is  wonderful ! ” said  Tseng  Chi.  “ But  you  have 
not  the  same  guns  as  the  foreigners.  I have  some  brand- 
new  rifles,  the  very  kind  they  use  ; let  us  try  these.” 

The  leaders  protested  in  vain,  the  new  rifles  were  dis- 
charged, three  men  fell  dead,  the  others  fled.  Immedi- 
ately excuses  were  made  ; these  men  had  not  been  sincere 


144 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Boxers  ; but  from  that  day  the  angry  leaders  suspected 
the  Governor-General.  There  was  much  talk  against  him, 
the  report  being  even  circulated  that  he  was  in  secret  a 
Catholic,  so  that  he  became  afraid  to  assert  himself  on 
the  side  of  mercy. 

The  Catholics  were  attacked  again  and  again,  but  while 
suffering  severely  they  held  their  own,  and  a good  many 
soldiers  and  Boxers  were  killed  or  wounded.  At  last, 
by  order  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  a determined  assault 
was  made,  cannon  were  placed  on  the  city  wall  which 
threw  in  shells  and  set  some  of  the  buildings  on  fire,  the 
big  gate  was  battered  in,  and  the  French  Bishop,  two 
priests,  two  sisters,  a number  of  Chinese  priests,  and 
several  hundred  Christians  were  killed  by  shot,  sword,  or 
fire.  Ail  the  buildings  were  burned,  and  at  last  Moukden 
was  thought  to  be  purged  of  the  foreign  poison. 

Few  Christians  had  been  found  in  the  city  itself.  One 
old  evangelist  was  killed  on  the  street.  There  was  another, 
a marked  man  because  his  leg  had  been  amputated.  A 
number  of  Boxers  met  on  the  street  an  old  patient,  not  a 
Christian,  who  also  had  lost  a leg.  “ Here  he  is  ! ” they 
shouted,  and  killed  him  without  further  question.  One 
old  widow  woman  did  not  attempt  to  flee.  She  was  over 
eighty,  absolutely  penniless,  and  very  stupid,  but  a Church 
member,  supported  by  the  Chinese  Christians  in  the  good 
old  apostolic  fashion.  Near  the  smouldering  ruins 
of  the  hospital  she  met  some  Boxers  searching  for 
Christians. 

“ I am  a Christian,  you  can  kill  me  ! ” she  cried  out. 
“ You  have  broken  my  food-bowl  (i.e.  those  who  give  me 
food),  and  how  can  I live  ? I believe  in  Jesus.  Kill  me  ! ” 
The  men  laughed,  chaffed  the  old  lady,  gave  her  food  and 
money,  and  went  their  way. 

But  what  of  the  Chinese  Christians  who  had  fled,  and 
those  in  the  towns  and  villages  all  over  the  country  ? 
Boxers  and  soldiers  were  out  seeking  them,  having  in 
many  cases  secured  in  the  chapels  the  lists  of  members  and 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


145 


inquirers.  The  months  of  July  and  August  were  a 
veritable  “ killing  time  ” ; and  had  there  existed  in  Man- 
churia any  widespread  hatred  of  Christianity,  many 
thousands  must  have  died  instead  of  hundreds.  The 
general  feeling  was  not  hatred  of  Christians,  but  fear  of 
the  Boxers.  There  were  cases  where  personal  spite  and 
long-standing  grudges  were  satisfied  by  the  betrayal  of 
Christian  families.  On  the  other  hand,  large  numbers  of 
men,  women,  and  children  owed  their  lives  to  the 
silence  of  non-Christian  neighbours,  even  when  re- 
wards were  offered ; many  were  housed  and  fed  by 
heathen  relatives  and  friends  ; many  more  given  food 
and  helped  on  their  weary  wanderings  by  comparative 
strangers. 

One  man  lay  for  fourteen  days  between  the  ceiling  and 
the  roof  of  a Buddhist  temple  where  a friend  of  his  was  a 
servant,  and  from  his  hiding-place  saw  Christians  brought 
before  the  idols  and  killed  when  they  refused  to  worship. 
Another  was  lingering  about  a village  where  he  had 
friends.  Hearing  a crowd  coming,  he  hid  in  some  trees, 
and  saw  one  after  another  of  his  fellow-members  done  to 
death.  On  one  church  door  eighteen  Christian  heads  were 
hung — the  church  was  rented,  so  it  had  not  been  burned. 
In  outlying  districts  many  girls  of  Christian  homes, 
Catholic  and  Protestant,  were  carried  off  to  the  hills  to  be 
the  wives  of  robbers  turned  Boxers.  Among  the  many 
miles  of  millet-fields  thousands  of  fugitives  crouched  and 
crept,  for  tall  millet  forms  a most  perfect  screen.  Over 
and  over  again  they  would  hear  their  persecutors  on  a 
path  a few  yards  away,  and  the  children  were  hushed 
into  shuddering  silence  till  the  danger  passed.  They  ate 
the  raw  grain,  vegetables,  roots,  and  wild  berries,  being 
afraid  to  light  fires  which  would  betray  their  presence. 
At  night  they  would  steal  out  to  draw  water  from  the 
village  wells.  The  little  ones  pined  with  the  unwholesome 
food  and  exposure,  and  many  a grave  was  dug  among 
that  fatal  unripe  millet.  The  heavy  rains  came,  soaking 


146 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  fields  and  driving  the  fugitives  to  seek  a precarious 
shelter  in  the  villages  for  a few  days.  But  even  in  those 
few  days  some  were  taken. 

In  the  early  vehemence  of  the  Boxer  fury,  Christians 
who  were  caught  were  beheaded  without  question,  but 
soon  they  began  to  be  given  a chance  of  life.  The  alterna- 
tive usually  was  burning  incense  in  a temple  and  renuncia- 
tion of  Christianity,  or  death  often  under  torture.  A good 
many,  among  them  women,  school  children,  and  un- 
baptized  “ inquirers,”  chose  death ; but  is  it  to  be 
wondered  at  that  others  chose  life  ? They  were  Christians 
of  a day,  and  it  seemed  a light  thing  to  tell  a lie  and  say 
they  gave  up  their  faith.  The  forms  of  death  varied 
according  to  the  individual  ferocity  of  the  persecutors. 
The  majority  were  beheaded ; others  were  wrapped  in 
cotton-wool  steeped  in  oil  and  burned  alive  ; one  was 
given  a “ fiery  crown,”  a thick  ring  of  oily  cotton-wool 
being  placed  round  his  head  and  set  on  fire  ; one  or  two 
were  hacked  to  pieces  bit  by  bit,  being  given  a new  chance 
to  recant  after  each  slice. 

“Yes,  I believe  in  Jesus,”  answered  a man  firmly 
when  ears  and  eyes  were  gone.  Then  they  cut  off 
his  lips,  saying  “ That  will  stop  you ! ” His  little 
daughter  also  refused  to  recant  and  was  beheaded  by 
his  side. 

As  the  weeks  passed  on,  a plan  was  devised  by  some 
more  merciful  minds  to  stop  the  killing.  A form  of 
certificate  was  drawn  out  stating  that  the  holder  had 
renounced  Christianity,  the  wording  in  different  places 
varying  in  the  definiteness  of  its  recantation.  These 
were  sold  to  thousands  of  Christians,  or  to  their  friends 
on  their  behalf,  and  often  without  their  knowledge. 
Many  a man  who  had  spent  suffering  weeks  in  the  fields 
and  seen  his  wife  and  children  languishing  and  dying 
before  his  eyes,  hailed  this  arrangement  as  the  merciful 
provision  of  the  Heavenly  Father  to  save  their  lives. 
He  would  have  continued  to  refuse  to  worship  in  a temple 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


147 


or  definitely  to  recant,  but  to  pay  for  a document  which 
was  not  true  seemed  to  him  very  different.  The  great 
proportion  of  the  Christians  being  men,  it  often  happened 
that  the  family  remained  in  safety  with  non-Christian 
relatives,  while  the  man  alone  went  into  hiding.  Now 
messages  were  sent  to  many  of  these  wanderers  that  they 
could  safely  come  home.  Some,  finding  these  lying 
certificates  awaiting  them,  tore  them  up  and  went  into 
exile  again.  Others  reasoned  that  they  could  not  be 
blamed  for  benefiting  by  them,  as  they  had  been  bought 
and  paid  for  without  their  authority. 

The  most  prominent  figure  among  the  Moukden 
Christians  was  that  of  Pastor  Liu,  and  a special  reward 
was  offered  for  his  capture.  He  was  never  found,  and 
for  long  not  even  the  Christians  knew  if  he  was  alive. 
After  witnessing  the  destruction  of  the  church  and  his 
house,  he  and  his  family  escaped  from  the  city  and 
wandered  about  for  some  days,  now  with  friends,  now 
hiding  in  the  millet,  and  again  sheltering  in  an  unused 
brick-kiln.  Realizing  that  his  presence  increased  the 
danger  to  his  family,  Liu  decided  to  leave  them.  They 
found  refuge  with  some  non-Christian  friends  in  the 
country,  while  he  fled  alone  to  the  east.  He  had  great 
difficulty  in  getting  food  and  drink.  The  wells  in  that 
district  were  all  locked  for  fear  of  Christian  poison. 
More  than  once  he  was  recognized  and  warned  to  go  on. 
After  nine  days  of  this,  he  shaved  his  head,  and  passing 
himself  off  as  a Buddhist  priest  who  had  lost  his  money, 
begged  boldly  for  food.  He  found  he  was  suspected, 
people  said  he  did  not  look  like  a priest,  so  he  continued 
his  hungry  wanderings,  seeking  for  a place  where  he  was 
unknown.  One  evening  in  an  inn  among  the  hills  he  met  a 
Moukden  Christian,  but  neither  dared  recognize  the  other. 
They  slipped  out  separately  and  met  in  a gully  where 
they  stayed  all  night  and  exchanged  tidings.  Some  days 
later  Liu,  still  disguised  as  a priest,  got  work  in  a farmer’s 
fields,  remote  from  towns,  and  there  he  remained  nearly 


148 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


two  months.  Once  he  was  sent  to  a place  five  miles  off, 
where  he  saw  the  chapel  burning  and  was  the  reluctant 
witness  of  the  killing  of  a Christian  woman.  It  was  late 
in  August  before  he  could  send  word  of  his  safety  to  his 
family. 

Throughout  the  summer  there  were  incidents  showing 
that  the  beneficent  work  of  the  hospital  was  not  wholly 
forgotten.  A dispenser  met  a band  of  soldiers,  and  one 
called  out : 

“ That  man’s  from  the  Moukden  hospital ! ” He 
thought  death  was  certain,  but  the  soldier  went  on  : 
“ Don’t  you  know  me  ? I was  wounded  in  that  big 
explosion,  and  your  people  cured  me  and  treated  me 
well.” 

“ Don’t  be  afraid,”  said  the  officer  in  charge,  “ your 
hospital  was  very  good  to  our  men.  You  can  stay  with 
us  for  a day  or  two  and  you’ll  be  all  right.” 

Another  student  was  led  out  to  execution  along  with 
his  father  and  brother,  surrounded  by  a crowd  of  excited 
Boxers.  One  of  these,  shouting  that  no  knife  could 
wound  him,  stabbed  himself  with  some  force  in  the 
abdomen.  The  student,  already  on  his  knees  awaiting 
the  executioner’s  sword,  instantly  called  out : 

“ I can  save  that  man’s  life,  and  heal  his  wound,  if  you 
will  set  my  father  free  ! ” So  they  bargained  that  he 
and  his  father  were  to  be  liberated  as  soon  as  the  man  was 
well ; but  they  would  not  include  the  brother,  who  was 
speedily  beheaded.  The  soldier  recovered,  and  the 
bargain  was  kept. 

Dr.  Wei,  my  assistant,  spent  weeks  in  hiding  ; but 
early  in  August  a band  of  Boxers  and  soldiers  threatened 
to  burn  his  village  and  kill  his  whole  home,  numbering 
some  thirty  souls,  if  he  wrere  not  given  up.  So  he  returned 
and  interviewed  their  officer,  reminding  him  of  the  many 
soldiers  who  had  been  healed  and  helped  in  the  hospital. 
This  he  could  not  deny,  and  Wei  was  liberated  for  the 
time.  Soon  afterwards  he  heard  that  the  Lieutenant- 


THE  BOXER  MADNESS,  1900 


149 


General,  who  was  in  Liaoyang  on  his  way  south  to  fight 
the  advancing  Russians,  was  looking  for  him  to  make 
him  a military  surgeon.  It  seemed  to  be  the  one  way  to 
save  his  family  and  village,  so  again  he  gave  himself  up. 
The  General  received  him  most  courteously,  apologized 
for  not  having  called  at  the  hospital  to  thank  us  in 
person  for  treating  his  wounded,  and  altogether  ignored 
the  fact  that  it  had  been  burned  down  by  his  orders,  and 
that  he  was  speaking  to  a Christian.  He  proposed  to 
appoint  Wei  as  Surgeon-in-Chief,  and  he  dared  not  refuse, 
but  succeeded  in  delaying  definite  arrangements  until  he 
could  get  instruments  and  medicines.  A few  days  later, 
when  he  was  at  home  on  a visit,  the  Russians  occupied 
his  village,  and  the  unwelcome  appointment  was  at 
an  end. 

After  looting  and  confiscating  all  available  Christian 
property,  the  Boxers  had  soon  begun  to  seek  new  sources  of 
gain.  They  blackmailed  the  merchants  and  wealthy  men 
of  city  and  country,  levied  taxes,  interfered  with  trade, 
and  took  up  an  arrogant  attitude  to  all.  When  the 
Governor-General’s  equipage  met  on  the  street  some  of 
their  leaders  with  their  mounted  escort,  he  had  to  draw 
aside  humbly  to  make  room  for  them.  Their  claims  for 
power  and  money  grew  till  all  Moukden  trembled  before 
them,  and  the  country  sighed  for  the  old  days  of  com- 
parative prosperity  and  security. 

At  the  beginning  of  August,  their  ally  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  went  south  with  part  of  the  army.  During  his 
absence  very  alarming  news  reached  the  Governor- 
General  by  the  private  Government  wire  from  Peking. 
Tientsin  had  been  taken  by  the  foreigners,  the  Boxers 
and  the  Chinese  army  were  being  daily  defeated,  and  a 
horde  of  foreigners  were  advancing  steadily  on  Peking. 
The  Boxer  power  had  now  lasted  forty-one  days  in 
Moukden,  and  the  Governor-General  decided  that  this 
was  long  enough.  A strong  proclamation  denouncing 
them  was  issued,  which  was  received  with  relief  by  the 


150 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


people  ; and  at  the  same  time,  on  1 1 August,  the  soldiers 
were  commanded  to  turn  on  them,  and  kill  every  Boxer 
they  could  find.  A good  many  were  killed,  many  more 
fled  from  Moukden,  and  the  rest  were  absorbed  in  the 
ordinary  population. 

The  Boxer  Madness  was  at  an  end  in  Manchuria. 


XVII 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


“ There  shall  never  be  one  lost  good  ! What  was  shall  live  as  before  ; 
The  evil  is  null  is  nought,  is  silence  implying  sound  ; 

What  was  good  shall  be  good,  with  for  evil  so  much  good  more  ; 

On  the  earth  the  broken  arcs  ; in  the  heavens  a perfect  round.” 


HE  Boxer  Madness  was  at  an  end,  but  the  price  was 


still  to  pay,  a heavy  price.  For  the  Empress- 
Dowager  there  was  the  humiliating  flight,  snatching 
from  his  quiet  entombment  the  unfortunate  Emperor, 
and  hurrying  west  to  unknown  regions  amid  unaccus- 
tomed hardships  and  undreamed-of  publicity.  For 
Peking  and  other  cities  there  was  the  occupation  by  the 
Allied  Forces,  with  all  that  implied  of  humiliation  and 
misery.  For  the  whole  nation  there  has  been  the  long- 
drawn-out  oppression  in  order  to  raise  the  indemnities, 
and  the  international  complications  whose  end  is  not  yet. 

While  the  allies  were  marching  on  Peking  and  seeking  to 
restore  order  in  that  unhappy  city,  it  fell  naturally  to  the 
Russians  to  re -conquer  their  railway  area  and  drive  back 
all  opposing  forces  in  Manchuria.  Taken  unawares  by 
the  outbreak,  it  was  some  time  before  they  were  able  to 
do  this.  The  first  outrages  were  on  30  June.  In  August 
the  Russians  began  slowly  but  steadily  to  move  north- 
wards, meeting  with  vigorous  opposition  from  the 


Abt  Vogler. 


“ ’Tis  but  to  keep  the  nerves  at  a strain. 

To  dry  one’s  eyes  and  laugh  at  a fall. 

And,  baffled,  get  up  to  begin  again.” 

“ Life  in  a Love  ” — R.  Browning. 


151 


152 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Lieutenant-General  and  his  troops,  very  differently 
trained  men  from  most  of  those  who  met  the  Japanese 
six  years  before.  At  the  same  time  another  Russian 
force  was  moving  down  from  the  north. 

The  missionaries  were  eager  to  get  as  early  as  possible 
into  touch  with  the  Christians,  and  learn  how  they  fared, 
and  in  September  Dr.  A.  Macdonald  Westwater,  of 
Liaoyang,  accompanied  the  Russian  army  on  its  forward 
march,  as  a Red  Cross  surgeon.  Knowing  the  country 
and  people  well,  and  having  some  previous  acquaintance 
with  the  Russians,  he  was  able  to  be  of  great  use  as  an 
intermediary.  When  the  army  was  encamped  south  of 
Liaoyang,  he  went  forward  into  that  city  to  represent 
to  its  authorities  the  hopelessness  and  suicidal  folly  of 
resistance,  and  persuaded  them  to  open  the  gates  and 
let  the  Russians  enter  quietly.  Thus  the  city  was  saved. 

Moukden  was  unfortunately  occupied  by  those  same 
soldiers  whose  passions  had  been  roused  by  helping  the 
Boxers  to  kill  and  loot.  Many  of  them  had  at  the  com- 
mand of  their  officers  turned  their  weapons  on  their 
quondam  allies  and  looted  and  killed  them  in  their  turn  ; 
others  had  returned  angry  and  rebellious  after  being 
defeated  by  the  Russians.  There  was  open  conflict 
between  the  Governor-General  and  the  Lieutenant- 
General,  who  was  very  indignant  at  the  massacre  of  his 
friends  the  Boxers.  Fearing  for  his  life,  Tseng  Chi  fled  on 
29  September,  followed  by  most  of  the  officials,  when  the 
Russians  were  within  a few  miles  of  the  city. 

The  consequences  to  Moukden  were  dire.  The  soldiers 
threw  off  all  restraint,  and  all  that  night  and  all  next 
day  they  pillaged  and  terrorized  the  defenceless  mer- 
chants and  people.  The  most  prosperous  banks  and 
shops  were  sacked  completely,  valuable  silks  and  furs 
being  strewn  on  the  streets  and  trampled  in  the  dust. 
Thousands  of  pounds’  worth  of  goods  were  thus  lost. 
On  the  second  evening  they  began  to  set  fire  to  the  shops 
they  had  looted  ; then  hearing  that  the  Russians  were  at 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


153 


the  south  gate,  they  fled  precipitately  by  the  north 
gates,  leaving  the  most  busy  and  prosperous  streets  of  the 
city  in  flames,  which  were  rapidly  spreading.  An  advance 
party  of  three  hundred  Cossacks  rode  up  to  the  south  gate 
to  reconnoitre,  and  finding  it  undefended,  they  entered 
and  took  possession  of  Moukden,  their  first  work  being 
to  help  to  control  and  extinguish  the  fires.  Had  their 
arrival  been  delayed  until  morning,  the  soldiers  would 
have  continued  their  ruthless  destruction,  and  half 
Moukden  might  have  been  burned. 

Next  day,  1 October,  the  main  body  of  Russians 
entered,  and  with  them  Dr.  Westwater.  The  burned 
streets  were  still  smouldering,  and  everywhere  were 
ruined  houses  and  shops.  The  people,  in  dread  of  this 
new  danger  which  had  come  upon  them,  hastened  to 
hang  out  flags  with  Chinese  inscriptions  such  as  44  Yield 
to  the  Russians,”  44  Submissive  People,”  44 1 am  a Chris- 
tian ” (this  being,  of  course,  untrue).  The  Russian 
Commander  was  General  Saboitisch,  whose  acquaintance 
I had  made  when  he  visited  Moukden  the  previous  year. 
He  took  up  his  abode  at  first  in  the  Imperial  Palace, 
unused  for  centuries,  and  set  himself  to  restore  order. 
Some  days  later  the  Russian  armies  from  the  north 
joined  forces  with  those  from  the  south,  and  through 
Manchuria  there  ran  a line  of  Russian  rule  from  Siberia 
to  the  sea. 

The  news  soon  spread,  and  Christians  began  to  come 
out  of  hiding  and  venture  back  to  the  city.  On  Sundaj^ 
7 October,  fourteen  weeks  after  the  burning,  a congrega- 
tion of  some  hundred  men  gathered  in  the  ruins  of  the 
church.  A portion  of  the  gable  wall  was  still  standing, 
and  on  it  could  be  read  the  charred  imprint  of  a part  of 
the  Beatitudes  which  once  hung  there.  The  words 
stood  out  distinctly,  44  Blessed  are  they  that  mourn.” 
Many  of  the  men  were  gaunt  and  haggard,  some  were 
starving,  all  were  poor.  They  had  neither  Bibles  nor 
hymn-books,  but  their  hearts  were  full  as  they  gathered 


154 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


round  Pastor  Liu,  with  his  shaven  priestly  head,  and 
prayed  together,  and  sang  together,  and  listened  while 
he  spoke  to  them  in  broken  accents  on  this  same  old  spot 
where  they  were  wont  to  gather  in  peace  to  worship  God. 

Having  seen  my  family  sail  for  home  in  September,  I 
returned  to  Newchwang  and  at  once  attempted  to  get 
up-country,  but  this  was  not  easy.  The  principal  towns 
on  the  main  route  all  the  way  north  were  occupied  by  the 
Russians,  but  everywhere  else  the  disorder  was  com- 
plete. Many  of  the  Boxers  and  defeated  soldiers  had 
become  brigands.  Those  well-to-do  farmers  who  had 
not  been  ruined  during  the  fighting  were  now  mercilessly 
blackmailed,  and  none  but  the  poorest  could  travel 
without  a strong  escort.  At  last  three  of  us  succeeded  in 
getting  passes  by  rail  for  Liaoyang,  and  from  there  after 
some  delay  we  accompanied  a Russian  convoy  by  road  to 
Moukden,  the  military  railway  being  not  yet  rebuilt. 
The  whole  countryside  was  a scene  of  desolation  ; miles 
of  millet-fields  were  uncut,  trampled,  and  spoiled  ; the 
villages  were  in  ruins,  the  houses  either  burned  or  gutted 
and  wrecked  ; few  Chinamen  and  no  women  were  to 
be  seen. 

On  the  morning  of  9 November,  a bleak,  chilly  day, 
we  entered  Moukden,  and  drove  through  the  ruined  main 
streets.  No  attempt  had  been  made  to  rebuild  the 
burned  buildings,  there  was  little  cart  traffic,  and  few 
people  were  moving  about.  All  the  inns  were  closed,  so 
we  went  into  the  least  dilapidated  empty  one  we  could 
find,  where  one  solitary  old  man  was  in  charge.  It  had 
been  sacked,  first  by  Chinese  soldiers,  then  by  Russians, 
and  was  quite  bare,  but  our  servants  soon  lit  a fire,  and 
prepared  food. 

When  we  went  over  to  the  Small  River  bank,  the 
scene  that  met  our  view  made  our  hearts  sink.  Of 
hospitals  and  houses  nothing  remained  but  heaps  of 
debris,  with  here  and  there  a broken  wall,  a protruding 
gable.  Even  the  trees  and  plants  were  gone,  torn  up  by 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


155 


the  roots  or  cut  down.  As  we  stood  there  with  the  wind 
whistling  through  the  grey  desolation,  it  seemed  as  if 
our  life-work  lay  in  ruins  around  us.  The  ruined  walls 
were  a symbol  of  the  ruined  Church,  its  apostasy,  its 
falsehood,  and  of  our  ruined  friendship  with  the  Chinese 
people  who  after  all  these  years  had  cast  us  out.  We 
returned  to  our  cold,  cheerless  inn,  after  seeing  the 
remains  of  the  church  building  also.  Then,  one  after 
another,  Christians  slipped  in  to  visit  us,  and  all  that 
evening  and  day  after  day  our  hearts  were  torn  by  their 
tales  of  suffering,  till  gradually  there  revived  within  us 
the  consciousness  that  the  Church  was  not  ruined. 

One  old  man  of  seventy  came  into  our  room  and  I did 
not  recognize  him.  He  was  a colporteur,  and  had  been 
noted  for  his  flowing  white  beard,  but  this  had  been 
almost  entirely  torn  out.  Again  and  again  he  had  been 
bound  and  beaten,  and  once  he  was  hung  up  to  a tree  by 
his  arms  till  he  lost  consciousness.  He  was  taken  to  a 
temple  where  were  two  hundred  Boxers,  and  saw  dripping 
from  their  swords  the  fresh  blood  of  some  Roman  Catholics 
who  had  just  been  beheaded. 

“Do  you  follow  the  foreigner  ? ” he  was  asked. 

“ No,  I follow  Jesus.” 

“ Will  you  give  up  the  false  religion,  and  follow 
Buddha  ? ” 

“ I worship  the  true  Buddha.  I believe  in  the  One 
True  God.” 

The  sword  was  placed  on  his  neck  and  he  thought  the 
end  had  come,  but  one  interceded  for  him  because  of  his 
age,  so  they  beat  him  instead.  Next  day,  to  his  surprise, 
he  was  liberated,  after  having  his  forehead  well  washed 
to  remove  the  Cross  which  was  supposed  to  be  marked 
on  every  Christian. 

“You  cannot  wash  the  Cross  from  my  heart,”  he  told 
them. 

Tales  like  this,  and  of  those  who  had  died  the  martyr’s 
death,  made  us  realize  that  the  Church’s  faith  was  greater 


156 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


than  her  apostasy,  her  truth  more  real  than  her  falsehood. 
Even  those  who  denied  their  Master  with  their  lips  were 
owning  Him  passionately  in  their  hearts,  and  now  that 
the  iron  hand  of  terror  relaxed  its  grip,  like  a needle  to  the 
Pole  they  returned  to  their  allegiance. 

One  of  our  preachers,  a student  for  the  ministry,  told 
me  how  he  had  escaped  and  hid  in  the  fields  for  several 
weeks  till  he  heard  that  his  mother  was  dying.  Then  he 
returned  to  his  village,  and  while  arranging  her  funeral  he 
was  taken.  As  he  refused  to  recant,  heavy  chains  were 
put  on  him  and  he  was  thrown  into  prison  to  await 
execution.  He  heard  the  soldiers  discussing  which  one 
would  cut  off  his  head  ; they  showed  him  the  knife  and 
sharpened  it  before  him,  then  he  was  brought  out  to  die. 

“ If  they  had  only  killed  me  then,”  he  said  bitterly,  “ I 
should  have  been  all  right.” 

But  someone  spoke  for  him,  and  instead  of  killing  they 
beat  and  kicked  him  and  put  him  into  a filthy  hole.  The 
heat  was  suffocating,  the  vermin  torturing,  the  chains 
on  his  ankles  so  tight  that  his  feet  swelled.  For  days  he 
lay  there  and  could  neither  sleep  nor  eat,  then  he  was 
again  led  out  for  execution,  and  he  longed  to  die.  Some 
friends  came  and  tried  to  buy  his  fife,  but  the  Boxers 
said  they  wanted  his  blood  to  consecrate  a new  flag.  At 
last,  after  several  days’  delay,  he  was  taken  to  a temple, 
more  dead  than  alive.  When  he  told  me  the  story,  he 
broke  down  here. 

“ Ah,  doctor  ! ” he  said  with  tears,  “ it  was  there  I 
denied  my  Lord.” 

Another  told  me  how  he  hid  in  the  fields  with  his  wife 
and  family  till  one  child  after  another  died  of  exposure 
and  hardship.  Then  they  heard  they  could  buy  exemption 
certificates. 

“ We  knew  it  was  wrong,”  he  said,  “ but  it  was  to  save 
the  lives  of  our  children  who  were  left.”  For  among  the 
many  families  wandering  outcast  that  summer  there  was 
hardly  one  which  did  not  lose  a child. 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


157 


We  heard  many  expressions  of  thankfulness  too.  Over 
and  over  again  was  it  said  that  the  tall  millet  saved  their 
lives.  And  the  weather  was  too  warm  for  sleeping  out 
of  doors  to  matter. 

“We  know  now  what  that  means,”  said  one.  “ Pray 
that  your  flight  be  not  in  the  winter.  Had  it  been  then,  not 
one  could  have  lived.” 

The  chaos  in  Moukden  was  distressing.  A large  pro- 
portion of  the  respectable  inhabitants  had  left,  and  the 
city  was  filled  with  the  worst  and  lowest  in  Manchuria. 
The  General  commended  himself  to  all  by  his  justice 
and  kindness  ; but  the  Russians  could  not,  of  course, 
discriminate  as  to  who  were  trustworthy.  The  best 
class  kept  away  from  them  ; their  interpreters  were 
degenerate  Chinese  who  cared  only  for  their  own  gain, 
and  many  of  those  whom  they  employed  even  as  police- 
men were  ex-Boxers  and  deserted  soldiers.  Plundering 
and  robbing  went  on  nightly  even  inside  the  walls.  Chris- 
tian persecution  continued,  though  not  openly ; and 
offensive  things  against  foreigners,  especially  Russians, 
were  continually  written  on  the  walls. 

No  direct  mission  work  was  possible,  but  we  did  what 
we  could  to  cheer  and  advise  the  Christians,  and  to  relieve 
their  most  pressing  needs.  It  had  been  impossible  to 
bring  much  money  with  us,  but  the  head  of  the  Merchant 
Guild  advanced  some.  They  were  in  terrible  destitution, 
the  tale  of  semi-starvation  being  legible  in  their  faces. 
Their  worldly  goods  were  gone,  many  were  living  on  the 
charity  of  relatives,  trade  was  at  a standstill,  work  not  to 
be  had.  Some  fortunes  were  indeed  made  that  winter, 
but  there  was  generally  not  much  to  be  said  for  those  who 
made  them.  Before  the  cold  weather  began,  an  unused 
theatre  was  rented  for  use  as  a church,  and  here  on 
Sundays  there  gathered  about  two  hundred  men,  and 
sometimes  three  or  four  women  in  men’s  clothes,  for  it 
was  not  safe  for  a woman  to  be  seen  in  the  street.  Few 
Bibles  and  hymn-books  were  among  them,  and  those  few 


158 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


were  tattered  and  stained,  having  been  buried  in  the 
earth.  Not  a new  one  could  be  had  in  all  Manchuria 
except  in  Newchwang. 

Of  our  old  possessions  in  hospital  and  houses  we  found 
few  traces.  Among  the  ruins  we  could  recognize  broken 
bits  of  crockery  and  ornaments,  and  an  English  book 
was  handed  me  which  a Russian  soldier  had  found  in 
one  of  the  yamen  buildings.  It  was  an  old  copy  of 
Hamerton’s  “ Intellectual  Life,”  valuable  to  me  because 
it  was  presented  by  the  author  to  an  old  aunt  of  mine 
in  the  Highlands.  Strange  that  this  shabby  old  volume 
should  be  preserved,  when  so  much  else  perished  ! Our 
anatomical  model  was  found  in  a dilapidated  condition 
in  one  of  the  yamens,  and  I was  informed  that  the 
articulated  skeleton  belonging  to  the  hospital,  after  being 
paraded  through  the  streets,  had  been  deposited  in  a 
temple  outside  the  city.  I found  the  temple  gate  closed, 
and  for  a time  knocked  in  vain.  The  priests  were  afraid 
of  the  soldiery,  and  pretended  there  was  no  one  to  hear. 
I shouted  loudly,  mentioning  my  name,  and  assuring 
them  I would  do  them  no  harm,  and  at  last  the  gate  was 
opened.  The  priest  professed  to  know  nothing  at  all  of 
the  skeleton,  but  I insisted  that  it  was  there,  and  that  if 
necessary  the  temple  must  be  searched.  Then  he  gave 
in,  and  ordered  it  to  be  brought. 

“ It’s  not  my  fault  he  is  injured,”  he  said,  “ that  was 
done  before  he  was  brought  to  me.  I have  treated  him 
well.  I got  a coffin  for  him,  and  have  offered  him  food 
regularly.” 

A rough  coffin  was  carried  in,  and  there  lay  our  teaching 
materials,  badly  broken,  with  parts  missing,  and  in  the 
coffin  were  also  bowds  with  various  kinds  of  food. 

It  was  useless  to  remain  long  in  Moukden,  as 
hospital  work  was  impossible,  and  there  was  little  we 
could  do  ; so  after  a few  weeks  we  went  back  to  New- 
chwang. 

In  January  I returned  for  another  visit,  before  going 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


159 


home  on  furlough.  The  railway  was  now  rebuilt,  but 
travelling  was  still  very  difficult,  as  there  were  no  regular 
trains.  We  obtained  passes  and  started  from  New- 
chwang  one  afternoon,  but  about  midnight  we  reached  a 
junction  and  were  suddenly  informed  that  the  train  was 
now  going  south  to  Dalny.  We  and  our  baggage  were 
hastily  ejected  on  the  snow,  and  we  saw  the  lights  of  our 
comparatively  comfortable  quarters  disappear  in  the 
distance.  The  station  was  not  rebuilt,  nor  was  anything 
visible  in  the  dense,  blinding  snow.  Knowing  there  must 
be  Russians  somewhere,  we  stumbled  forward  along  the 
line,  shouting  as  we  went,  till  we  saw  a man  with  a 
lantern. 

“ Angliske  ! ” he  exclaimed  in  an  excited  tone,  “ New- 
castle ! Angliske  ! Newcastle  ! ” and  he  led  us  away  to  a 
siding  where  stood  a train  without  an  engine.  Out  of  the 
cold  we  gratefully  climbed  into  one  of  the  trucks,  where 
was  a stove.  This  he  helped  us  to  light,  and  then  went 
off  smiling  in  friendly  fashion  and  reiterating  with  satis- 
faction, “ Newcastle  ! ” evidently  the  one  word  he  re- 
membered from  some  long-past  visit  to  England.  Thank- 
fully we  lay  down  to  sleep.  About  daylight  we  became 
conscious  that  our  truck  had  begun  to  move.  Anxiously 
we  peered  forth  to  see  which  way  it  was  going.  It  was 
north , so  we  settled  down  again  and  replenished  our  stove, 
and  ultimately  we  reached  Moukden.  The  railway  now 
passed  within  a couple  of  miles  of  the  city,  the  station 
being  to  the  west.  Here  it  remains  to  this  day,  the 
present  Japanese  station  and  hotel  being  close  to  the  old 
Russian  site. 

Throughout  the  country,  except  along  the  railway  line, 
there  was  still  anarchy,  brigands  blackmailing  and 
pillaging  on  all  hands.  There  were  constant  rumours  of 
expected  risings,  and  it  was  said  that  the  Lieutenant- 
General  was  gathering  a large  army  in  the  north.  The 
city  itself  we  found  more  peaceful  than  before,  and  a 
few  shops  were  open.  The  Governor-General  had  quietly 


160 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


returned  to  Moukden,  and  was  living  in  a private  house, 
where  I had  an  interview  with  him.  He  received  me  in 
his  official  robes  with  much  ceremony,  most  politely 
thanked  me  for  all  the  hospital  had  done  for  his  people  and 
soldiers,  and  expressed  regret  for  its  unfortunate  destruc- 
tion. I reminded  him  that  these  very  soldiers  of  his 
had  a large  share  in  the  looting  and  burning.  His  face 
fell  and  he  assured  me  that  he  had  done  his  best  to  prevent 
it,  but  the  Boxers  were  beyond  his  control. 

“ They  said  I was  a Roman  Catholic,  and  wanted  to  kill 
me,”  he  exclaimed  indignantly.  He  blamed  the  Lieu- 
tenant-General for  everything,  and  said  that  when  he 
returned  to  office  he  would  protect  the  Christians.  Some 
of  my  old  official  friends  had  suffered  severely  because 
of  their  association  with  the  foreigner.  The  one  who  had 
warned  us  to  leave  lost  everything  and  had  to  flee  for  his 
life.  Now,  however,  he  has  received  an  appointment  as 
magistrate  of  a city.  At  the  present  day  he  holds  an 
important  office  in  Moukden,  under  the  Republic. 

The  political  outlook  at  this  time  was  most  uncertain, 
and  the  missionary  outlook  no  less  so.  The  Russians  were 
in  possession  of  the  principal  cities,  and  in  force  all  along 
the  railway.  Chinese  officials  held  office  in  most  places, 
and,  it  was  said,  would  soon  be  reinstated  in  Moukden, 
but  they  were  more  or  less  under  Russian  control.  The 
general  fear  was  that  all  Manchuria  would  gradually 
come  under  Russia,  for  China  was  powerless  to  resist. 
It  was  impossible  to  expect  that  this  would  not  affect 
mission  work.  The  Russians  had  all  along  been  most 
kind  and  helpful  to  us,  and  personally  they  were  our 
very  good  friends.  They  would  facilitate  in  any  way 
they  could  the  gathering  together,  relieving,  and  organ- 
izing of  our  Christians  ; but,  knowing  the  official  stand- 
point, we  could  not  but  fear  it  would  necessarily  be  a very 
different  matter  when  we  and  the  Chinese  Christians 
began  once  more  to  evangelize. 

These  gloomy  forebodings,  however,  were  not  realized. 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


161 


Very  gradually  things  returned  to  their  former  conditions. 
The  Governor-General  resumed  his  position  and  bit  by  bit 
regained  his  old  power.  Brigands  betook  themselves  to 
peaceful  avocations  or  re -enlisted  ; trade  revived  ; a 
good  harvest  in  1901  worked  wonders.  Missionaries 
returned  to  their  stations,  living  in  temporary  quarters, 
and  helping  to  reorganize  the  rent  and  broken  Church. 
Its  membership  was  much  reduced.  Only  about  three 
hundred  were  definitely  reported  as  killed,  but  hundreds 
more  had  disappeared.  Of  these  many  no  doubt  were  also 
killed,  others  died,  and  many  fled  to  other  provinces.  Of 
those  who  recanted,  a number  decisively  abandoned 
Christianity,  these  being  mostly  new  members  who  had 
come  in  on  the  wave  during  the  year  or  two  preceding  the 
outbreak  ; the  greater  majority  still  counted  themselves 
Christians,  though  temporarily  suspended  from  full 
membership.  The  former  general  friendliness  to  Christi- 
anity had  quite  passed  away.  Instead  there  were  aloof- 
ness, avoidance,  and  fear. 

“ Who  would  want  to  have  anything  to  do  with  a 
religion  whose  people  suffered  like  that  ? ” was  frankly 
said  ; and  resentment  was  harboured  against  foreigners 
and  all  who  associated  with  them,  for  having  caused  the 
miseries  of  the  Boxer  summer,  and  also  the  Russian 
occupation.  The  Tsai-li-ti  continued  to  be  numerous 
and  strongly  anti-foreign  and  anti-Christian, 

It  was  long  before  country  work  was  possible  for 
foreigners,  partly  because  it  was  really  unsafe,  partly 
because  the  Russians  considered  it  so,  and  refused  to 
allow  foreigners  to  travel.  The  Christians  themselves 
were  thus  compelled  to  do  much  of  their  own  reconstruc- 
tion, and  this  materially  increased  their  self-reliance 
and  self-government.  It  is  always  difficult  to  engineer 
the  transformation  from  dependence  to  self-support  and 
independence.  Looking  back,  we  can  see  how  largely 
this  was  wrought  among  us  by  events  and  influences  over 
which  we  had  no  control.  In  the  absence  of  any  visit 


162 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


from  a foreign  pastor,  and  with  hostile,  suspicious,  or 
contemptuous  neighbours,  the  Christians  in  many  a 
district  drew  together  and  ceased  to  depend  on  any 
earthly  help  outside  their  own  circle  for  spiritual  or 
temporal  guidance.  They  put  into  practice  the  methods 
of  Church  government  they  had  learned,  and  when  at 
last  the  missionary  could  come  among  them,  they  had 
greatly  advanced  in  self-dependence. 

Another  circumstance  had  a powerful  influence,  partly 
for  good,  partly  for  evil,  on  the  development  of  the 
Christian  Church.  The  Government  decided  to  compen- 
sate Christians  for  their  losses,  to  the  extent  of  one-third 
of  the  total  amount.  This  inevitably  caused  trouble, 
jealousies,  and  heart-burnings,  and  introduced  into  the 
midst  of  the  Church,  whose  dross  had  been  purged  by  fire, 
a new  element  which  in  many  instances  was  most 
disastrous.  To  their  credit  be  it  said  that  a good  many 
Christians  devoted  to  the  Church  a large  part  of  their 
indemnity  money.  The  payment  had  been  long  delayed, 
they  had  already  made  themselves  homes  again,  and 
though  still  poor  were  no  longer  in  such  urgent  need. 
These  subscriptions  were  chiefly  used  by  them  for  the 
erection  of  chapels  and  schools,  and  in  this  way  many  a 
congregation  started  on  its  career  of  self-support. 

The  work  of  the  next  few  years  was  very  different  from 
those  preceding  1900.  The  condition  of  things  was  so 
uncertain  that  no  one  ever  knew  when  war  might  break 
out  between  Russia  and  Japan.  Men’s  minds  were 
unsettled,  so  that  new  “ inquirers  ” were  few.  There  was 
much  to  do  in  consolidating  the  Church,  teaching  and 
training  her  members,  gathering  back  those  who  had 
left.  Those  baptized,  however,  were  worth  having. 
They  had  gone  through  the  persecution  and  come  out  of 
it  Christians  still,  or  else,  in  spite  of  contumely,  they 
were  drawn  to  this  strange  teaching  for  which  some 
wrould  even  dare  to  die. 

Education  too  received  fresh  attention.  The  Christians 


i 


PAYING  THE  PRICE 


163 


were  eager  to  have  as  many  elementary  schools  as  possible 
for  both  boys  and  girls,  and  Middle  Schools  were  opened 
in  several  centres.  An  Arts  College  was  started  for  our 
older  boys,  to  train  them  for  afterwards  becoming  more 
efficient  pastors,  evangelists,  medical  assistants,  or  school 
teachers,  and  the  Theological  Hall  was  reopened. 

By  the  end  of  1903  the  work  was  once  more  in  full 
prosperity,  being  only  hindered  by  the  uncertainties  of 
the  political  situation  and  the  fear  of  war.  Hospitals 
had  been  early  reopened  in  temporary  premises.  The 
Moukden  Women’s  Hospital  was  rebuilt  in  1903,  and  it 
was  planned  to  build  the  Men’s  Hospital  in  1904,  when 
once  more  the  war-clouds  burst  over  us. 


XVIII 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


“ My  life  must  be  lived  out  in  foam  and  roar.” 

Sordello. 


EUSSIA  had  long  regarded  Manchuria  and  Korea  as 
> part  of  her  destined  territory,  her  not  unnatural 
ambition  being  to  possess  a seaboard  free  from  ice.  The 
conquest  of  Korea  and  part  of  Manchuria  by  Japan  in 
1894-5  was  in  her  eyes  an  unpardonable  impertinence 
which  could  not  be  tolerated.  So  Japan  had  to  be  con- 
tent with  Formosa,  and  to  stand  by  and  see  Russia, 
within  three  years  of  the  Chino- J apanese  war,  appropriate 
with  China’s  sanction  the  ice-free  harbour  and  fortress  of 
Port  Arthur  she  had  marked  as  her  own,  establish  a new 
ice-free  seaport  at  Ta-lien-wan  or  Dalny,  proceed  to  build 
a railway  across  her  battlefields,  and  interfere  in  the 
affairs  even  of  Korea. 

The  Boxer  outbreak  was  a mere  temporary  set-back, 
which  actually  strengthened  Russia’s  position,  giving 
reasonable  excuse  for  many  an  act  of  aggression.  The 
unnecessary  ferocity  of  her  vengeance  at  Blagovestchensk 
and  the  military  occupation  cowed  all  impulse  to  re- 
sistance, though  rousing  bitter  enmity.  Manchuria 
was  in  the  estimation  of  the  outer  world  lost  to  China, 
in  spite  of  the  Treaty  of  1902,  whereby  all  but  the  railway 
zone  was  to  be  evacuated.  A strongly  guarded  Russian 
military  railway  ran  through  the  heart  of  the  three 
provinces  ; a Russian  Commissioner  with  a considerable 
military  guard  resided  in  each  capital,  in  addition  to 

164 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


165 


consuls,  and  even  the  Governor-General  in  Moukden 
could  do  little  with  consulting  this  Commissioner.  Harbin, 
that  mushroom  city  with  its  thirty  thousand  Russian 
civilians  and  countless  Chinese,  had  sprung  up  where  in 
1898  were  but  a few  huts.  Hundreds  of  Chinese  had 
learned  to  speak  a sort  of  semi-Russian  jargon,  and  the 
lowest  classes  of  the  two  nations  fraternized  with  easy 
freedom. 

Jealous  Japan  was  watching  closely  all  that  went  on, 
and  steadily  and  silently  preparing  for  a war  on  which  she 
knew  depended  her  very  existence.  If  she  allowed 
Russia  to  close  her  grasp  on  Manchuria,  it  meant  that 
Korea  would  go  too.  And  with  Manchuria  and  Korea 
in  the  grip  of  the  Bear,  what  chance  would  remain  for 
Japan  of  that  predominance  on  which  she  had  set  her 
heart,  or  even  of  independence  and  development  ? When 
it  became  evident  that  the  Evacuation  was  a mere  name, 
she  saw  that  the  sooner  the  war  came  the  better  for  her, 
before  Russia  began  to  take  her  seriously.  She  had 
spies  everywhere,  posing  as  Chinese,  many  of  them  in 
Russian  employ  ; she  knew  all  the  Russian  arrange- 
ments, and  it  was  for  her  to  fix  the  date  for  the  opening 
of  hostilities. 

There  were  in  Moukden  a considerable  number  of 
Russians,  and  all,  military  and  civilians  alike,  looked 
forward  to  the  war  with  easy  contempt. 

“ War  ? ” said  one  loftily.  “ There  will  be  no  war 
worth  mentioning.  Peace  will  be  signed  in  Tokyo  within 
three  weeks  of  the  first  shot.” 

“ It  is  suicidal  folly,”  said  another,  “ for  Japan  to  defy 
us,  for  now  we  shall  wipe  her  name  off  the  map.”  The 
sudden  surprise  attack  by  the  Japanese  at  Port  Arthur 
on  the  night  of  8 February,  1904,  and  the  torpedoing  of 
warships  while  many  of  their  officers  were  feasting  and 
dancing  on  shore,  was  a severe  shock  to  Russian  com- 
placency ; but  it  was  easy  to  make  excuses  for  this  “ un- 
fortunate accident,”  and  complete  confidence  was  speedily 


166 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


restored.  To  the  last,  many  officers  were  always  sure 
that  Russia  was  about  to  gain  a great  victory. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  attempt  to  give  any  connected 
account  of  a war  which  is  fresh  in  men’s  minds,  and  on 
which  so  many  books  have  been  written.  Looking  back, 
we  wonder  that  its  outcome  should  have  been  a surprise 
to  anyone.  Japan  had  made  great  advance  since  1895, 
and  profited  by  her  mistakes  and  successes  in  the  war  with 
China.  Her  army  worked  with  the  precision  of  a well- 
oiled  machine  ; there  was  provision  for  every  detail  and 
every  individual,  preparedness  for  every  known  con- 
tingency. More  important  still,  there  was  universal 
personal  enthusiasm  for  the  war  : nation  and  individual 
alike  were  determined  to  conquer  or  die  ; and  they  did 
not  underestimate  their  foe. 

The  Russians,  on  the  other  hand,  relied  on  their  ancient 
reputation  for  valour,  and  on  what  they  considered  the 
contemptible  size  of  their  enemy.  It  was  evident  to  the 
most  casual  observer  in  Manchuria  that  military  prepara- 
tions were  carried  out  with  easy  carelessness  and  laissez- 
faire,  that  corruption  and  graft  were  rampant,  that  there 
were  jealousy  and  lack  of  cohesion  among  the  Generals 
and  various  branches  of  the  service,  that  many  officers 
cared  more  for  their  amusements  than  for  serving  their 
country,  and  that  the  rank  and  file  of  the  men  felt  either 
indifference  or  dislike  to  the  war.  A Russian  card  was 
one  day  brought  to  me,  and  I was  told  that  a foreigner 
urgently  wanted  to  see  me.  He  spoke  English  well, 
and  after  asking  for  medicine  for  some  trifling  ailment,  he 
poured  out  his  story.  He  was  a Russian  Jew  who  had 
gone  to  London  years  ago,  and  was  in  business  near 
Blackfriars  Bridge.  He  had  returned  to  Russia  to  visit 
his  old  parents,  and  had  been  seized  and  compelled  to 
serve  in  this  war.  He  was  comfortably  dressed  and 
evidently  had  some  money,  though  but  a common 
soldier. 

“ I am  a Jew,”  he  said  bitterly,  “ so  there  can  be  no 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


167 


reward  nor  promotion  for  me.  I shall  be  sent  to  the  front 
to  die  like  a dog.”  Then  turning  passionately  to  me  he 
exclaimed  : “I  don’t  want  to  kill  these  Japs  ! Will  you 
save  me  ? Get  me  a post  as  servant  any  where  ! I want 
to  live,  and  get  back  to  Blackfriars  Bridge  ! ” 

It  was  natural,  almost  inevitable,  that  victory  should 
be  with  the  alert,  the  well-prepared,  the  keenly  loyal ; 
but  at  the  beginning  of  the  war  few  outside  Manchuria 
knew  the  actual  conditions,  or  were  prepared  to  see 
Russia  defeated. 

For  the  third  time  within  ten  years  it  was  now  decided 
that  all  the  ladies  and  children  should  leave  Moukden. 
It  had  been  officially  stated  that  the  Chinese  Railway 
connecting  Manchuria  with  Tientsin  and  Peking  would 
shortly  cease  to  run,  so  that  our  connection  with  the  outer 
world  would  be  cut.  For  this  reason  their  departure  was 
hastened,  but  after  all  the  railway  continued  open 
throughout  the  war.  Unfortunately  I had  to  go  to 
Tientsin  later  owing  to  illness  in  my  family,  and  for  a 
considerable  time  the  way  was  blocked  against  my  return, 
as  the  Russians  allowed  no  foreigners  to  approach  nearer 
to  Moukden  than  Hsin-min-tun,  the  rail-end  of  the 
Chinese  line. 

During  this  time  the  Russian  strategy  aimed  at  delaying 
the  advance  of  the  Japanese  until  an  army  was  ready 
with  which  to  crush  them.  But  the  Japanese  would  not 
be  delayed.  They  crossed  the  Yalu,  they  crippled  the 
Russian  fleet,  they  invested  Port  Arthur,  and  three  armies 
moved  steadily  forward  by  three  routes  towards  Liao- 
yang,  beating  down  all  opposition  before  them.  By 
August  they  had  retaken  all  their  old  conquests  of  the 
Chino -Japanese  war,  except  Port  Arthur.  South  of 
Liaoyang  the  Russians  prepared  to  make  a stand,  and  at 
last  towards  the  end  of  August  we  heard  that  a great 
battle  was  taking  place  there.  As  this  might  be  expected 
to  cause  a relaxation  of  the  strictness  of  guard  over  the 
road  entering  Moukden  from  the  west,  another  missionary 


168 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


and  I decided  to  start  at  once  for  Hsin-min-tun,  and 
attempt  to  get  through  the  Russian  lines. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  war  I had  received  an  official 
Russian  pass  for  myself  and  family  to  leave  Moukden. 
This  I had  used  on  my  return,  and  though  arrested  by 
the  way  I was  quickly  released.  When  I left  Moukden 
the  second  time  I expected  no  trouble,  my  face  being  in 
the  direction  the  pass  indicated.  Nevertheless  I was 
stopped  four  times,  a drunken  Cossack  keeping  me  under 
guard  all  one  night  in  an  inn.  These  Cossacks  cannot 
read,  but  an  official  Russian  document  with  an  official 
seal  and  signature  impresses  them.  Now  I was  to  use 
this  pass  for  the  fourth  time,  and  even  this  was  not  the 
last ; it  also  served  to  bring  my  wife  and  family  back 
through  the  lines  the  following  February. 

The  Russian  defeat  at  Liaoyang  after  eleven  days’ 
desperate  fighting  had,  as  we  anticipated,  thrown  into 
confusion  the  guarding  of  the  approaches.  We  left 
Hsin-min-tun  without  any  challenge,  and  after  covering 
seven  or  eight  of  the  forty  miles  to  Moukden  came  to  the 
broad  Liao  River,  which  was  considered  the  boundary 
of  the  war  zone.  As  our  ferry  boat  touched  the  eastern 
bank,  some  Russian  soldiers  came  forward.  The  Chinese 
passengers  were  allowed  to  go  their  way,  but  we  were 
arrested  and  taken  to  the  camp,  where  for  three  and  a 
half  hours  we  were  kept  waiting.  Our  passports  were 
taken  away,  and  we  much  feared  that  if  they  were  read 
we  should  be  sent  straight  back.  At  last  an  officer  came 
in,  looked  at  us,  glanced  carelessly  at  our  papers  which 
he  held,  signed  them,  and  we  were  free.  To  our  Chinese 
inn  that  night,  when  we  had  just  finished  supper,  a 
number  of  Cossacks  came.  They  seemed  to  be  starving, 
and  gulped  down  the  remains  of  our  viands  with  great 
relish.  Next  day  we  passed  some  thousands  of  worn-out 
soldiers  retreating  from  the  Liaoyang  battle,  but  we  were 
not  interfered  with,  and  arrived  safely  home  on  the  after- 
noon of  9 September,  1904. 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


169 


Our  life  in  Moukden  that  winter  was  a strange  one. 
Around  us  raged  a war,  in  which  the  Chinese  with  whom 
we  identified  ourselves  were  primarily  little  concerned. 
It  was  fought  out  on  Chinese  soil,  and  Chinese  peasants 
suffered  and  died  without  suggestion  of  compensation, 
though  it  was  not  their  quarrel.  They  wanted  neither 
Russia  nor  Japan  to  overshadow  them,  the  shadow  of  the 
Dragon  Throne  was  preferred  by  all.  They  took  no  side 
in  the  struggle,  though  many  of  the  people,  groaning 
under  Russian  military  rule,  longed  for  the  advent  of  the 
Japanese,  in  the  mistaken  belief  that  it  would  bring  back 
freedom.  They  and  we  were  neutral,  yet  we  viewed 
from  the  inner  circle  the  bloody  strife. 

Around  us  were  tens  of  thousands  of  Russians  who 
talked  freely  of  all  that  happened.  Their  easy  optimism 
was  most  striking,  and  their  gaiety  in  the  face  of  defeat 
and  disaster.  Most  officers  whom  we  met  were  very 
friendly,  though  we  could  not  but  surmise  that  there  were 
many  quite  the  reverse.  The  alliance  between  Britain 
and  Japan  made  them  suspicious,  and  the  common 
soldiers,  if  they  knew  we  were  “ Angliske,”  scowled  at  us 
openly.  One  officer  told  me  frankly  that  the  successes 
and  generalship  of  the  Japanese  were  easily  explained, 
as  they  had  a large  number  of  British  officers  among 
them.  This  was  generally  believed  throughout  the  army. 

In  vain  the  Russians  had  made  their  stand  before 
Liaoyang,  and  when  we  arrived  in  Moukden  it  was  to  a 
panic-stricken  city.  During  the  summer,  merchants  of 
all  kinds  and  nationalities,  many  of  the  lowest  and  most 
unprincipled  type,  had  congregated  in  the  city  and 
battened  on  the  needs  of  the  army.  Now  hurried  flight 
was  the  aim  of  all  these,  for  the  Japanese  entrance  was 
not  to  be  opposed.  Soon,  however,  it  became  clear 
that  they  were  not  going  to  advance,  and  the  Russians 
took  up  a position  midway  between  Moukden  and  Liao- 
yang, across  and  along  a stream  called  the  Sha-ho. 
Hospitals,  bank,  post-office,  and  other  departments 


170 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


which  had  fled  returned  quietly.  Reinforcements  from 
Europe  poured  down  steadily  from  the  north.  Kuro- 
patkin  completed  the  reorganization  of  his  army,  and 
prepared  to  take  the  offensive  at  last  and  to  inflict  a 
crushing  defeat  on  his  enemy  before  winter  set  in. 

At  the  beginning  of  October  a proclamation  was  issued 
congratulating  the  troops  on  their  successful  retreats, 
announcing  that  they  were  now  strong  enough  to  ad- 
vance and  “ impose  our  will  on  the  enemy,”  and  urging 
them  to  “ uphold  the  honour  of  Russia.”  The  general 
opinion  among  war  correspondents  and  military  attaches, 
as  well  as  among  the  Russians,  seemed  to  be  that  there 
was  good  reason  to  expect  a turn  of  the  tide  and  a Russian 
victory. 

On  7 October  the  Battle  of  the  Sha-ho  commenced,  and 
we  began  to  hear  heavy  firing,  a sound  which  continued 
in  our  ears  for  five  months.  It  was  impossible  to  know 
what  was  happening  from  day  to  day.  One  evening  a 
Russian  officer  told  me  that  all  was  going  well  and  they 
were  successful ; next  morning  there  was  an  ominous 
silence,  and  we  learned  from  the  Chinese  that  the  Russians 
were  retreating.  Towards  midnight  on  the  17th  we  stood 
on  our  balcony  and  looked  out  on  pitch -blackness  in 
which  a thunderstorm  was  raging.  Between  the  peals 
we  could  hear  distinctly  the  incessant  rattle  of  rifles 
and  machine-guns,  punctuated  with  the  sound  of  heavy 
artillery.  This  continued  without  intermission  for  an 
hour,  then  ceased  abruptly.  We  learned  afterwards  that 
the  Russians  had  made  a night  attack  on  an  outlying 
hill  occupied  by  the  Japanese.  After  losing  1800  men 
they  had  wiped  out  the  Japanese  garrison,  taken  the 
hill,  and  captured  fourteen  guns  which  we  saw  later 
paraded  through  the  city.  The  hill  was  thenceforward 
known  as  Potiloff  Hill , from  the  name  of  the  captor. 

Soon  after  this  it  was  evident  to  all  that  the  great 
Russian  attack,  the  first  occasion  on  which  they  had 
taken  the  initiative,  had  failed.  The  Battle  of  the  Sha-ho 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


171 


had  been  fought  and  lost,  with  terrible  slaughter  on  both 
sides.  The  scenes  in  Moukden  after  the  Battle  of  Liaoyang 
were  now  re-enacted,  the  hurried  flight,  the  general 
stampede.  But  again  the  Japanese  were  unable  to  turn 
defeat  into  disaster.  They  did  not  press  their  victory. 
The  panic  was  arrested.  The  fugitives  returned,  and 
camp-followers  slunk  back  to  their  old  haunts. 

The  armies  settled  down  for  the  winter,  facing  each 
other  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Sha-ho.  Many  Russian 
officers  lived  in  houses  in  Moukden,  others  in  comfortable 
railway  cars  at  the  station,  and  some  were  with  their  men. 
For  the  remaining  weeks  until  the  ground  was  frozen 
hard,  the  entire  Russian  army  were  at  work  digging 
trenches,  fortifications,  and  shelters,  until  the  whole  plain 
north  of  the  Sha-ho  was  one  vast,  well-organized  under- 
ground camp,  extending  east  and  west  in  parallel  lines. 
All  the  trees  in  the  countryside  were  felled  to  use  as 
props,  and  the  timber  taken  from  the  neighbouring 
Chinese  houses,  so  that  over  that  entire  populous  area 
the  villages  were  destroyed  and  the  inhabitants  driven  out. 

During  the  four  months  between  the  battles  of  Sha-ho 
and  Moukden  there  were  constant  skirmishes  and  some 
serious  fights,  and  the  boom  of  artillery  continued  at 
intervals  day  and  night.  Military  attaches  and  war 
correspondents  came  and  went.  Some  of  these  lived 
comfortably  in  Moukden,  picked  up  what  news  and  tales 
they  could,  and  sent  their  dispatches  promptly.  Others 
risked  their  lives  at  the  front,  saw  the  realities  of  the  war, 
and  returned  to  Moukden  to  find  themselves  left  behind 
by  their  less  enterprising  brethren  in  the  race  to  supply 
what  passed  for  news. 

On  one  occasion  a correspondent  who  usually  stayed  in 
the  city  decided  to  go  out  with  a Russian  company  about 
to  operate  in  a mountain  district.  With  infinite  labour 
some  guns  were  dragged  up  a hill,  from  which  some 
Japanese  were  seen  not  far  off  squatting  on  the  ground 
smoking  cigarettes.  The  Russians  opened  fire,  but  after 


172 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


a round  or  two  found  that  by  some  mistake  their  ammuni- 
tion had  failed  to  arrive.  While  they  were  discussing  the 
situation,  a Japanese  shell  went  over  their  heads,  then  a 
second  fell  close  in  front,  and  no  one  awaited  a third. 
Down  the  hill  they  all  tore,  the  correspondent  with  the 
rest.  Suddenly  he  found  that  he  was  being  pursued  by 
two  Cossacks.  They  attacked  and  knocked  him  down, 
and  he  realized  with  horror  that  they  took  him  for  a Jap, 
for  he  was  dark  and  had  closely  cropped  hair.  In  vain 
he  protested.  One  of  them  lifted  his  rifle  with  its  fixed 
bayonet,  solemnly  crossed  himself,  and  was  about  to  kill 
him  when  a Russian  officer  came  up.  To  him  the  corre- 
spondent shouted,  and  in  a few  minutes  his  identity  was 
established. 

There  was  a strange  friendliness  between  the  soldiers 
on  opposite  banks  of  the  Sha-ho.  At  stated  times  Russians 
and  Japanese  drew  water  from  the  same  wells  and  holes 
in  the  river  ice,  and  exchanged  greetings  and  cigarettes  ; 
though  the  rest  of  the  day  they  would  “ snipe  ” each 
other  if  given  the  opportunity.  Thousands  of  Japanese 
picture-postcards  were  scattered  through  the  Russian 
army,  representing  the  happy  time  enjoyed  in  Japan  by 
those  Russians  who  were  fortunate  enough  to  be  taken 
prisoner.  No  doubt  these  alluring  pictures  had  their 
effect.  Gradually  with  the  postcards  were  circulated 
leaflets  in  Russian,  which  those  who  could  read  were 
glad  to  while  away  the  weary  hours  in  the  trenches  by 
explaining  to  those  who  could  not.  The  Russian  soldier 
at  the  front  receives  but  little  news  from  home  ; but  in 
this  way  were  circulated  through  the  army  stories  which 
would  otherwise  have  remained  unknown,  of  the  constant 
troubles  and  incipient  rebellion  in  Russia  over  the  calling 
out  of  fresh  troops,  of  the  naval  mutiny  at  Sebastopol, 
of  the  unpopularity  of  the  war,  and  finally  the  terrible 
tale  of  the  shooting  down  of  the  petitioners  before  the 
Winter  Palace  in  January,  1905.  Wo  may  be  sure  these 
stories  did  not  lose  in  the  telling. 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


173 


The  most  serious  interruption  to  this  friendly  inter- 
course was  in  the  last  week  of  January.  The  Japanese 
had  taken  Port  Arthur,  the  Winter  Palace  tragedy  was 
filling  the  thoughts  of  all  Russia,  and  it  seemed  a political 
necessity  to  win  a battle  just  at  this  moment,  though  it 
was  the  coldest  month  of  a specially  cold  winter.  So  the 
Russians  to  the  south  and  south-west  of  Moukden  left 
their  cosy  dug-outs,  and  drove  back  the  Japanese  outer 
line.  For  five  days  there  was  desperate  carnage,  and  the 
large  proportion  of  deaths  among  the  casualties  tells  what 
terrible  havoc  the  cold  wrought.  But  the  necessary 
victory  was  not  won,  and  with  thinned  ranks  the  armies 
settled  down  again,  apparently  as  before.  Only  it  was 
noticed  that  there  was  less  hopefulness  among  the 
Russians,  they  were  beginning  to  regard  the  war  as  an 
unlucky  one,  foredoomed  to  failure. 

Just  as  the  year  closed  I had  an  interesting  experience. 
On  29  December  an  urgent  summons  came  for  me  to  go 
to  the  medical  aid  of  one  of  our  missionaries  in  Kaiyuan, 
seventy  miles  up  the  line.  At  first  the  difficulty  of  getting 
there  seemed  insurmountable.  None  but  troop  trains 
were  running,  and  no  passes  were  given.  At  last,  with  the 
help  of  friends,  I obtained  a pass  to  travel  on  the  Imperial 
Red  Cross  train,  which  was  to  go  north  with  wounded 
that  night.  The  train  was  the  one  presented  by  the 
Dowager-Empress,  and  was  a revelation  of  the  possibilities 
of  comfort  and  luxury.  I was  given  a large  state-room, 
and  dined  and  slept  in  royal  style.  The  doctors  in  charge 
received  me  with  great  courtesy  and  kindness,  showing 
me  over  the  whole  train  with  its  perfect  medical  equip- 
ment. Next  day  we  reached  Kaiyuan ; and,  having  done 
my  work  there,  I returned  to  the  station,  some  miles  from 
the  town,  on  the  morning  of  the  31st.  So  farthings  had 
gone  smoothly,  but  to  get  back  to  Moukden  was  the 
difficulty. 

For  twenty-six  hours  I waited  at  Kaiyuan  station, 
with  a very  anxious  mind.  The  railway  had  been  cut  by 


174 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  Japanese  once  already,  and  it  was  expected  to  happen 
again  any  day,  so  that  I might  be  stranded.  The  Red 
Cross  hospital  at  the  station  was  in  charge  of  a Countess, 
who  spoke  English  perfectly  and  had  spent  some  time  in 
Edinburgh.  Among  her  staff  of  nurses  were  Princesses, 
Countesses,  and  other  ladies,  whose  husbands  were  at  the 
front.  She  and  they  were  most  kind,  inviting  me  into  the 
warmth  and  shelter  of  their  hospital.  I dined  with  them, 
and  the  Countess  arranged  that  I should  occupy  a vacant 
doctor’s  room,  with  two  Cossacks  to  attend  me.  One  of 
them  was  to  remain  awake  and  call  me  when  a train  came. 
I slept  little,  but  lay  listening  to  the  bursts  of  singing  from 
the  soldiers,  full  ringing  unison,  breaking  now  and  again 
into  rich  harmony.  Several  times  I was  roused  by  the 
arrival  of  a train,  and  went  out  into  the  biting  cold,  but 
it  was  going  the  wrong  direction,  or  it  was  already  full 
and  I was  not  allowed  on  it. 

At  last,  about  midday,  I succeeded  in  getting  away. 
The  train  was  a marked  contrast  to  the  last  I was  in, 
consisting  of  filthy  fourth-class  carriages  crowded  to 
overflowing  with  soldiers  for  the  front.  It  was  cold,  but 
the  windows  being  hermetically  sealed,  the  air  was  close 
and  stifling.  All  that  New  Year’s  Day  of  1905  I sat  there 
crushed  in  a corner  among  men  to  whom  I could  not  talk, 
but  I was  thankful  to  be  there  and  to  reach  Moukden 
station  by  midnight.  After  considerable  difficulty  at  the 
gates  in  getting  past  the  Russian  guard,  I arrived  home 
in  the  small  hours  of  the  morning. 

Towards  the  end  of  1904  some  of  the  ladies  returned  to 
Moukden,  and  in  February,  1905,  my  family  came  back 
also.  One  of  our  servants  went  to  Hsin-min-tun  to  meet 
them,  with  our  much-used  pass  sewed  inside  his  clothes. 
From  there  they  started  in  carts  before  daylight.  The 
winter  roads  were  hard  and  smooth,  and  good  speed  was 
possible,  if  only  the  Russians  did  not  turn  them  back. 
The  children  were  instructed  to  do  their  best,  by  laughing 
to  the  soldiers,  to  put  them  in  a good  humour,  for  Russians 


WAR  AGAIN,  1904 


175 


are  all  child -lovers.  Several  times  mounted  Cossacks 
roughly  stopped  the  carts,  but  the  official  document  which 
they  could  not  read  did  its  work,  and  the  sight  of  nothing 
but  a lady,  an  amah,  and  some  smiling  children.  Each 
time  the  pass  was  thrown  back  and  the  soldiers  rode 
away  ; so  the  party  went  on  without  delay,  reaching  the 
Small  River  bank  with  thankful  hearts  long  before  dark, 
just  the  day  before  the  great  battle  began. 


XIX 


IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  BATTLE  OF  MOTJKDEN 

“ A sound 

As  of  the  trailing  skirts  of  Destiny, 

Passing  unseen,  to  some  immitigable  end 
With  her  grey  henchman,  Death.” 

W.  E.  Henley. 


IT  was  now  the  middle  of  February,  1905,  and  the 
extreme  cold  was  over.  Occasional  thaws  might  be 
expected,  but  there  were  still  several  weeks  before  spring 
would  turn  the  hard  roads  and  plains  into  heavy  deep 
mud.  A Japanese  advance  was  daily  looked  for,  and  the 
Russians  were  well  prepared  to  stand  their  ground.  But 
whatever  they  said  we  had  no  doubt  as  to  the  issue  : 
sooner  or  later  the  Japanese  would  certainly  enter  Mouk- 
den.  We  had  little  apprehension  of  any  serious  trouble. 
The  Chinese  Government  was  stable  and  had  things  well 
in  hand,  and  the  Japanese  would  certainly  avoid  shelling 
the  city.  There  was  some  talk  of  turning  our  vegetable- 
pits  into  bomb-proof  shelters,  but  nothing  of  the  kind 
was  done. 

The  battle,  or  rather  the  series  of  battles,  called  the 
Battle  of  Moukden , began  on  19  February,  and  lasted 
until  10  March  ; and  during  all  this  time  the  roar  of 
artillery,  distant  or  near,  was  so  constant  that  a silence 
attracted  one’s  attention.  It  is  estimated  that  about  a 
million  soldiers  were  engaged,  perhaps  a quarter  of  whom 
were  killed  or  wounded.  The  Russians  were  constantly 
reporting  victories,  and  confidently  predicting  complete 
success.  With  a line  of  battle  extending  in  a curve  of 

176 


IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  BATTLE  177 


over  a hundred  miles,  there  was  opportunity  for  many 
minor  victories  at  the  same  time  as  a general  defeat. 

To  our  east  and  south-east  there  was  desperate  fighting 
among  the  mountains  with  KurokVs  men  and  others, 
and  General  Kuropatkin  was  beguiled  into  believing  that 
here  was  to  be  the  main  Japanese  attack.  South  of  us 
the  Russians  were  so  strongly  entrenched  and  fortified 
along  the  Sha-ho,  that  it  was  believed  to  be  impossible  for 
Nodzu  to  drive  them  back.  Here  the  cannonade  was 
unceasing.  Eight  miles  direct  south  of  us,  Potiloff  Hill 
was  taken  and  retaken  in  all  eight  times.  I visited  it 
afterwards,  and  the  sight  was  appalling.  For  a mile 
round  the  ground  was  thick  with  broken  shells,  cartridges, 
and  splintered  stones.  The  hill  was  honeycombed  with  a 
network  of  trenches,  underground  stables,  etc.,  all 
opening  to  the  northern  or  Russian  side.  Its  whole 
upper  part  had  been  blown  away  by  the  heavy  Port 
Arthur  siege -guns,  which  had  been  brought  up  by 
Nodzu,  the  heaviest  artillery  ever  known  in  field  warfare. 
It  was  this  which  broke  the  impregnable  Russian  defence 
in  this  region.  We  found  traces  of  it  in  fragments  of 
eleven-inch  shells. 

Farther  west  there  was  dogged  fighting  on  both  sides 
for  possession  of  the  plain  where  the  fruitless  battle  of 
January  had  been  fought,  and  here  step  by  step  the 
Russians  were  pressed  back  by  Olcu.  At  the  same  time 
Nogi,  with  another  army,  popularly  supposed  to  have 
gone  east  to  help  Kuroki  in  the  hills,  was  really  going  west 
behind  Oku’s  men,  and  then  north  by  Hsin-min-tun  to 
turn  Kuropatkin’s  flank. 

In  Moukden  we  quietly  went  on  with  our  wTork  among 
the  many  wounded  Chinese  and  refugees  who  poured  in 
upon  us,  and  I had  not  a few  patients  among  attaches, 
war  correspondents,  and  Russian  officers.  With  great 
interest  we  noted  day  by  day  the  changes  in  the  sounds 
of  firing.  We  heard  the  new  heavy  Japanese  artillery 
which  seemed  to  come  into  play  to  the  south  on  the  27th, 


N 


178 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  Port  Arthur  siege-guns,  and  the  gradual  creeping 
nearer  and  nearer  of  the  cannonading  where  Oku  was 
gaining  inch  by  inch  to  the  south-west.  Then  great  fires 
were  seen  one  night  on  the  horizon,  the  burning  of  the 
Russian  stores  before  falling  back.  Refugees  poured  in 
daily  from  villages  which  had  been  behind  the  Russian 
lines,  but  were  now  between  the  armies  or  in  the  hands  of 
the  Japanese.  They  told  sadly  of  great  Russian  stores 
given  to  the  flames,  but  one  merciful  commander  gave 
notice  to  the  Chinese  still  lingering  round  their  ruined 
homesteads  that  he  would  give  them  four  hours  to  loot. 
After  that  there  was  little  left  to  burn. 

Suddenly  there  was  firing  due  west,  and  next  day 
some  refugees  told  us  they  had  been  stopped  by  Japanese , 
not  Russians,  on  the  Liao  River  near  Hsin-min-tun.  On 
that  same  day  the  Chinese  Imperial  Post,  which  had 
gone  via  Hsin-min-tun  all  winter,  ceased  running.  This 
was  our  first  intimation  that  the  Japanese  were  in  force 
so  far  north.  Their  semicircle  was  now  complete,  and 
this  western  wing  began  to  curl  round  eastwards. 
Authorities  say  that  as  late  as  6 March  there  was  still  a 
fair  chance  of  success  for  Russia.  A victory  was  reported 
with  the  capture  of  forty  Japanese,  and  the  attaches  told 
us  that  the  Russians  were  more  than  holding  their  own. 
Hearing  Chinese  reports,  listening  to  the  firing,  watching 
the  constant  stream  of  Russian  transport  wagons  heaped 
with  baggage  which  rumbled  away  to  the  north  along  the 
road  just  outside  the  wall — we  had  our  own  thoughts. 

One  afternoon,  as  we  walked  on  the  plain  and  listened 
to  the  guns,  trying  to  decide  which  were  Japanese  and 
which  Russian,  we  suddenly  became  conscious  that 
besides  the  loud  booming  we  were  accustomed  to,  there 
were  distinct  sharp  reports  from  smaller  guns  from  the 
north-west.  This  was  Nogi's  army,  fighting  its  way  towards 
the  railway,  to  cut  the  Russian  communications  once  for 
all.  After  three  days  of  the  fiercest  fighting  of  the  whole 
war  all  along  the  whole  line  of  battle,  on  Tuesday,  the  7th, 


IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  BATTLE  179 


the  railway  was  cut  to  the  north,  Nodzu  broke  through 
the  defence  on  the  southern  front,  driving  the  Russians 
back  on  their  entrenchments  on  the  Hun  River,  and  at 
the  same  time  both  east  and  west  were  hardly  pressed. 
That  evening  Kuropatkin  wired  to  St.  Petersburg  : “ I 
am  surrounded .” 

This  was  hardly  true,  however.  The  railway  was  not 
yet  taken,  the  breach  was  repaired,  fresh  reinforcements 
were  hurried  down  from  the  north  to  hold  Nogi  in  check, 
and  in  the  night  Kuropatkin  gave  secret  orders  for  the 
orderly  retreat  on  Tieling  which  was  to  save  the  larger 
portion  of  his  army.  The  position  prepared  there  was 
forty  miles  away,  so  time  was  needed.  In  Moukden 
nothing  was  heard  of  the  order  for  evacuation,  the 
Japanese  must  be  held  back  for  another  day  at  all  cost. 

Next  morning,  Wednesday,  the  8th,  there  was  heavy 
firing  due  north  of  us,  shaking  the  windows,  the  rush  of 
the  shells  through  the  air  being  plainly  heard.  The 
Russians  were  occupying  the  North  Tomb  woods  which 
lie  just  beyond  the  railway,  and  here  for  two  days  there 
was  sharp  fighting.  A little  nearer,  a captive  balloon 
floated  and  watched.  Just  outside  the  wall  a few  hundred 
yards  from  us,  a constant  stream  of  cavalry  and  transport 
passed  north,  and  we  heard  that  the  railway  and  the  roads 
beside  it  were  crowded  night  and  day.  When  darkness 
fell,  the  sight  from  our  attics  was  terribly  grand.  Four 
miles  to  the  south  the  great  Russian  stores  of  fuel  and 
grain  were  in  flames.  Bridges  and  villages  were  also 
burning,  and  the  whole  sky  was  ablaze.  Close  at  hand 
were  the  fires  of  a large  cavalry  camp.  High  in  the  air 
the  shrapnel  were  bursting  into  stars,  and  the  roar  of 
artillery  was  incessant  from  every  direction. 

On  9 March  one  of  the  worst  dust-storms  on  record 
enveloped  the  armies,  and  fought  against  the  Russians. 
There  was  a powerful  warm  south  wind,  bearing  with  it 
the  fine  loess  dust  characteristic  of  this  country,  so 
thickly  that  sometimes  for  five  minutes  at  a time  we 


180 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


could  not  from  our  windows  see  the  brick  wall  eighteen 
yards  distant.  The  Russians  had  this  blinding  tempest 
in  their  faces  as  they  fought,  and  under  its  cover  the 
Japanese  crossed  the  Hun  River  on  the  rotting  ice.  One 
day  later  the  Hun  was  broken  up  into  great  ice-floes, 
and  crossing  would  have  been  impossible  in  face  of 
Russian  guns.  4 4 Verily  Heaven  is  on  the  side  of  Japan  ! ” 
remarked  the  Chinese.  The  retreat  was  steady  and 
methodical,  and  in  this  the  dust-storm  aided  Russia. 
Trains  ran  constantly ; every  road  and  track  was 
thronged  ; constant  fighting  kept  the  J apanese  back 
and  the  way  open  ; the  Russian  eastern  and  western 
wings  were  withdrawn,  and  gradually  the  front  was 
retreating ; pom-pom  and  rifle  fire  drew  nearer  us, 
sounding  muffled  through  the  thick  dust. 

From  time  to  time  for  the  past  fortnight  we  had  had 
serious  difficulties  with  drunken  Russian  soldiers.  They 
entered  our  Refuges,  terrified  the  women,  and  threatened 
our  lives  when  we  expelled  them.  This  culminated  on  the 
Tuesday  night,  when  two  fully  armed  artillerymen 
entered  the  Women’s  Hospital,  threatening  us  with 
loaded  revolvers  and  drawn  swords,  and  were  only  got 
rid  of  after  great  difficulty.  Again  on  this  Thursday 
morning,  the  last  day  of  the  battle,  a soldier  tried  to  get 
into  our  private  compound,  and  threatened  to  kill  our 
watchman  for  preventing  him.  These  were  not  mere 
idle  threats.  People  wounded  in  this  way  came  daily 
to  the  hospitals,  and  we  heard  of  many  killed.  Just  at 
that  moment  the  Russian  Chief  of  Police  came  to  see  me 
on  purpose  to  offer  us  a guard.  He  promptly  arrested  the 
man,  and  insisted  on  sending  us  some  Russian  soldiers 
to  prevent  further  trouble.  In  the  evening  they  arrived, 
and  we  provided  them  with  supper  and  a room  for  them 
to  sleep  in,  in  relays. 

As  darkness  drew  near  the  wind  fell.  The  firing  was 
close  to  us  on  the  south  and  south-east,  the  rearguard 
action  of  the  retreating  Russians.  The  end  could  not  be 


IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  BATTLE  181 


far  off.  That  night  at  1 a.m.  we  were  roused  by  loud 
shouting  and  knocking  at  our  gate.  A messenger  had 
come  to  recall  our  guard  in  haste,  for  the  order  for  the 
immediate  evacuation  of  Moukden  had  been  issued  at 
11  p.m.  For  a time  the  last  thunder  of  the  Russian  guns 
was  so  loud  that  we  could  not  hear  ourselves  speak,  and 
the  crackle  of  the  pom-poms  and  the  sharp  rifle  fire  were 
incessant.  We  found  afterwards  that  they  had  passed 
in  the  darkness,  firing  as  they  went,  within  a quarter  of  a 
mile  to  the  east  of  us.  Then  for  a couple  of  hours  there 
was  comparative  quiet  and  we  slept. 

At  dawn  on  Friday,  the  10th,  we  were  suddenly  roused 
by  deafening  Japanese  artillery  fire.  They  had  brought 
their  guns  forward  and  were  shelling  the  retreating 
Russians,  whose  rifle  fire  we  could  hear  in  reply.  The 
scream  of  the  shells  seemed  almost  overhead.  One  fell 
in  the  road  close  to  us,  but  did  not  explode,  several  others 
in  or  beside  the  Small  River.  A shrapnel  ball  struck 
an  earthen  wall  near  by,  and  several  bullets  fell  in  our 
compounds,  but  no  one  was  injured.  Some  Russians 
were  killed  on  the  Small  River  bank  outside  the  wall,  a 
couple  of  hundred  yards  away.  Then  the  rifle  fire  ceased, 
and  the  battle  passed  on  to  the  north. 

During  the  forenoon  companies  of  Japanese  quietly 
entered  Moukden,  but  the  Russian  evacuation  was  not 
yet  complete.  Several  thousand  had  failed  to  get  away 
in  time,  and  in  the  afternoon  some  of  these  tried  to 
escape  by  the  northern  of  the  two  east  gates.  The 
Japanese  outside  opposed  them,  and  there  was  a short, 
sharp  engagement,  some  of  the  Russians  sheltered 
inside  the  outer  city  wall,  which  they  loopholed,  firing 
east  and  south.  We  were  surprised  by  the  sudden  patter 
of  rifle  bullets  on  the  roof  when  in  the  midst  of  an  opera- 
tion, and  looking  out  we  saw  our  hospital  coolies  running 
for  shelter  with  an  arm  over  the  head  as  if  to  protect 
it.  A dropping  rain  of  bullets  continued  in  our  com- 
pounds, and  wild  stories  circulated  of  the  many  thousand 


182 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Russians  in  hiding  in  the  city.  In  little  more  than  an 
hour  all  was  over.  Those  who  had  tried  to  break  through 
the  Japanese  lines  were  killed  or  captured.  The  rest 
retired  to  the  compound  containing  the  Russian  Church, 
where  they  surrendered  later. 

All  that  Friday  cannonading  continued  to  the  north, 
gradually  receding  till  it  died  away  in  a dull  booming, 
and  there  was  silence.  The  battle  of  Moukden  was  over. 
In  the  evening  the  Japanese  cut  off  the  retreat  of  many 
thousand  Russians  fifteen  miles  north  of  the  city. 

Throughout  the  war  the  sympathies  of  the  Chinese  were 
no  doubt  on  the  side  of  Japan.  The  Japanese  had  left  a 
good  record  behind  them  ten  years  before  ; a Japanese 
occupation  of  which  they  knew  nothing  was  presumably 
preferable  to  a Russian  occupation  whose  drawbacks 
they  knew ; and  finally,  they  were  of  kindred  race,  and 
this  was  the  first  time  the  East  seemed  to  have  a prospect 
of  conquering  the  West.  At  the  same  time  the  Chinese 
took  no  side  in  the  struggle.  “ It  is  not  our  affair,”  they 
constantly  said.  Villagers  were  coerced  into  giving 
information  and  acting  as  guides  and  scouts,  but  this 
was  equally  so  on  both  sides.  As  far  as  the  missionary 
body  in  Manchuria  was  concerned,  absolute  neutrality 
was  observed,  neither  help  nor  hindrance  being  afforded 
to  either  side,  except  healing  in  the  Red  Cross  hospitals. 

The  minute  information  possessed  by  the  Japanese 
regarding  the  Russians  was  due  to  their  own  spies,  not  to 
Chinese.  For  several  years  before  the  war,  secret  service 
officers  and  men  had  been  scattered  throughout  Man- 
churia, disguised  as  Chinese.  They  let  their  hair  grow, 
wore  queues,  spoke  Chinese  with  what  passed  for  a 
southern  accent,  and,  of  course,  the  type  of  face  is  some- 
what similar.  They  took  service  with  Russians,  learned 
their  language,  and  when  war  began  were  ready  to  be  of 
use  to  their  country.  The  risk  does  not  seem  to  have  been 
counted.  A “ Chinese  ” barber  who  regularly  attended 
the  Russian  headquarters  staff  in  Moukden  up  to  the 


IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  BATTLE 


183 


evacuation  was  a Japanese  spy,  as  were  several  of  their 
table-boys  and  valets.  They  had  in  this  way  a thoroughly 
organized  secret  service  throughout  the  Russian  army, 
with  runners  via  Hsin-min-tun  to  the  Japanese  head- 
quarters. 

One  day,  soon  after  the  battle  ended,  I was  told  that  a 
Chinaman  wished  to  see  me.  From  his  appearance  and 
accent  I took  him  to  be  a Cantonese,  but  he  soon  un- 
deceived me.  This  was  his  story.  He  was  a Japanese 
spy  who  had  lived  in  Manchuria  for  several  years  and 
knew  the  country  well.  To  disarm  suspicion  he  had  an 
office  in  the  city,  where  he  carried  on  genuine  business. 
He  made  friends  with  many  Russians,  who  frequently 
visited  him,  and  he  had  close  business  relations  with  the 
army.  At  the  same  time  he  had  a staff  under  him,  and 
sent  dispatches  regularly  to  headquarters.  During  the 
battle  of  Moukden  he  had  a financial  difference  with  a 
Chinese  confederate,  and  had  reason  to  fear  he  was 
betrayed.  He  barred  his  door  securely  while  making 
preparations  for  flight.  At  midnight  there  was  a noise 
outside.  After  some  delay  some  Russian  soldiers  got  in 
and  began  to  batter  the  door  of  his  room.  He  threw  open 
the  back  window  and,  with  a loaded  revolver  in  each 
hand,  awaited  them.  When  the  door  was  burst  in,  he 
fired  repeatedly  with  both  weapons  simultaneously  and 
saw  several  Russians  fall.  Then  he  jumped  out  of  the 
window,  and,  in  his  own  words,  “ never  stopped  until  he 
reached  Hsin-min-tun.” 


XX 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT 


“ Towns  without  people,  ten  times  took. 

And  ten  times  left  and  burned  at  last 
And  starving  dogs  that  came  to  look 
For  owners  when  a column  passed.” 

Rudyard  Kipling. 

THROUGHOUT  the  war  area  all  these  months  the 
distress  among  the  Chinese  was  acute.  Many  of  the 
well-to-do  had  fled  with  their  possessions  early  in  the 
summer  to  safer  districts,  and  gradually  large  numbers 
of  the  humbler  country  folk  brought  their  families  into 
the  cities,  renting  houses  or  lodging  with  friends.  Still 
most  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  innumerable  villages 
on  the  wide  level  fertile  plain  south  and  west  of  Mouk- 
den  remained  in  their  homes,  hoping  against  hope  that 
the  fighting  would  not  come  near  them. 

When  the  Russians  fell  back  from  Liaoyang  in  Sep- 
tember, many  of  these  villages  were  occupied  by  troops, 
and  during  the  next  few  weeks  crowds  of  refugees  flocked 
into  Moukden  in  successive  waves.  On  the  main  street 
of  the  south  suburb  might  sometimes  be  seen  a continuous 
heterogeneous  stream,  while  the  townsfolk  looked  on 
from  the  doorways  and  side- walks.  Here  were  farm 
carts  drawn  by  all  the  animals  available — mules,  horses, 
donkeys,  cows,  and  laden  with  grain,  millet-stalk,  or 
household  gear,  women  and  children  huddling  among 
the  bundles.  There  were  lines  of  weary  foot-passengers, 
most  of  the  men  bearing  their  belongings  suspended  from 
a pole  across  the  shoulders,  while  the  women  carried  the 
babies. 


184 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  185 


Where  were  such  crowds  to  be  housed  ? Many  found 
temporary  shelter  in  temples,  many  more  slept  on  the 
streets  under  the  projecting  eaves  of  the  houses.  House 
rents  in  the  city  ran  up  to  fabulous  prices,  till  the 
Governor-General  issued  a proclamation  making  it 
illegal  to  charge  more  than  a definite  sum  for  each  room. 
Many  who  were  Christians  looked  to  their  fellow-Chris- 
tians  for  help,  and  for  weeks  several  hundred  were 
sheltered  in  the  church  compound  and  other  buildings. 
Scores  of  homeless,  knowing  the  benevolent  nature  of  the 
hospital,  gathered  round  our  doors,  and  before  long  we 
opened  a Refuge,  admitting  Christians  and  others  in- 
discriminately. 

Systematic  aid  was  evidently  necessary,  for  the  misery 
must  increase  as  winter  approached  and  with  each 
successive  battle.  This  was  not  war  on  a small  scale,  like 
the  Chino -Japanese  war  of  ten  years  before,  nor  the 
march  of  a column  through  a limited  area  like  the  Russian 
conquest  after  the  Boxer  time.  The  whole  breadth  of 
the  country  from  the  inaccessible  mountains  to  the  Liao 
River  was  occupied  by  the  armies,  and  as  the  fighting 
moved  northwards  the  size  of  those  armies  grew  ever 
greater. 

In  our  extremity  the  Shanghai  Red  Cross  and  Refugee 
Aid  Society  came  to  our  help,  undertaking  to  supply  us 
with  funds  and  surgical  requisites,  and  later  on  there 
was  assistance  from  Tientsin  and  other  places  also.  The 
Rev.  James  Webster  was  the  Secretary  in  Newchwang, 
making  known  our  needs,  forwarding  our  supplies,  and 
acting  as  a very  necessary  intermediary  with  the  outside 
world.  The  Rev.  James  W.  Inglis  and  I were  asked 
to  administer  the  funds  and  superintend  the  relief  work 
in  Moukden.  At  the  same  time  the  Governor-General, 
Tseng  Chi , still  the  same  as  at  the  Boxer  time,  was 
arranging  for  similar  Refugee  aid  from  Government  funds, 
and  was  anxious  to  co-operate  with  us.  We  had  several 
interviews  with  him  about  it,  and  all  through  the  winter 


186 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


we  worked  harmoniously,  his  representatives  meeting 
with  us  in  committee.  One  Refuge  after  another  was 
opened  for  temporary  or  permanent  relief.  Sometimes, 
after  a few  days  with  us,  a family  would  find  a friend’s 
house  to  go  to.  Frequently  when  the  women  and  children 
had  settled  down  in  a Refuge,  their  men  would  return 
home  to  save  what  they  could  from  the  wreck,  so  that 
male  inmates  were  always  in  a minority. 

Before  long  we  were  faced  with  the  impossibility  of 
maintaining  a supply  of  grain,  as  all  carts  were  com- 
mandeered by  the  Russians  ; and  indeed  the  city  was 
threatened  with  famine.  In  this  emergency  the  Chinese 
Government  stepped  in  and  made  arrangements  with  the 
Russians  to  issue  special  permits  for  carts  from  the  north 
with  grain  and  fuel,  and  the  danger  was  averted.  The 
price  of  grain,  however,  remained  at  several  times  what 
was  usual,  and  millet-stalk  was  six  times  its  normal 
price.  All  food  stuffs  were  dear  in  proportion,  and  coal 
which  we  used  in  our  houses  was  £5  a ton. 

When  the  battle  of  the  Sha-ho  began  in  October,  the 
friendly  attitude  of  the  Russians  to  the  villagers  altered. 
They  seem  to  have  become  soured,  and  charged  the 
Chinese  with  betraying  them  to  the  enemy.  Village  after 
village  was  cleared  of  its  inhabitants,  who  had  to  escape 
in  haste  for  their  fives,  taking  nothing  with  them.  After 
the  battle  came  the  systematic  destruction  of  villages  to 
provide  quarters  for  the  Russian  army.  The  posts  and 
roof-timbers  were  all  used  as  props  for  the  underground 
shelters,  so  that  nothing  remained  of  hundreds  of  prosper- 
ous villages  but  fallen  walls,  isolated  gables,  and  solitary 
chimneys.  The  inhabitants  reached  Moukden  absolutely 
destitute,  having  lost  their  worldly  all,  and  our  numbers 
grew  rapidly,  sometimes  as  many  as  a thousand  being 
admitted  to  our  Refuges  in  one  day. 

During  the  first  three  months  of  1905  we  were  support- 
ing over  ten  thousand  people,  and  the  Government  over 
thirty-eight  thousand.  It  is  estimated  that  there  were 


‘ Where  were  such  crowds  to  be  housed  ? 


- 


. 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  187 


from  first  to  last  about  ninety  thousand  refugees  in 
Moukden,  besides  the  thousands  who  fled  to  Hsin-min-tun 
and  other  places. 

The  housing  of  these  crowds  was  no  easy  problem,  but 
as  one  night  without  shelter  in  winter  would  have  meant 
death  to  many,  the  most  makeshift  accommodation  was 
thankfully  accepted.  We  commandeered  one  or  two 
large  empty  compounds  whose  owners  had  fled,  paying 
rent  if  demanded.  Our  ruined  hospital  compound 
accommodated  about  seven  hundred.  Before  the  frost, 
the  refugees  themselves  dug  out  dwellings  about  two  feet 
below  ground-level,  making  walls  of  the  earth  and  old 
bricks  from  the  ruins,  without  any  mortar.  A few  posts 
were  enough  to  support  the  roofing  of  millet-stalk  and 
mud,  with  a light  outer  coating  of  lime.  Inside,  long 
kangs  were  built  of  the  broken  bricks,  matting  was  spread, 
and  they  were  ready  for  occupation. 

One  of  the  largest  and  best-known  temples  in  Moukden 
opened  its  doors  free  of  charge  to  our  refugees.  Here 
semi-dug-outs  similar  to  those  just  described  occupied  the 
compound,  and  outhouses  and  temple  tower  sheltered 
some  score.  The  long  corridor  called  “ Buddha’s  Walk,” 
by  which  the  invisible  Buddha  is  supposed  to  transfer 
himself  from  one  of  his  images  to  another,  was  also  used 
for  human  habitation.  A couple  of  stoves,  strangely 
incongruous  with  the  traditions  of  the  place,  raised  the 
temperature  a little  above  freezing-point.  The  main 
temple  buildings  were  left  untouched,  and  worshippers 
continued  to  visit  them,  and  priests  to  burn  incense  as 
usual.  The  priests  made  not  the  slightest  objection 
to  the  holding  of  a Christian  service  in  their  temple 
every  evening,  in  fact  it  was  an  interesting  variety  in  their 
life.  The  Guild-house  of  the  Che-kiang  provincials  was 
also  lent  to  us,  and  we  occupied  two  theatres,  a bank, 
and  several  other  buildings. 

In  all  these  primitive  or  adapted  dwellings  the  refugees 
lived  contentedly,  in  spite  of  conditions  and  surroundings 


188 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


which  we  would  consider  misery.  They  cooked  their  own 
food  and  did  all  their  own  work  ; they  had  abundance 
to  talk  about  and  plenty  of  neighbours  to  talk  to  ; they 
had  food  and  shelter,  and  winter  clothing  and  bedding 
were  supplied  to  those  who  lacked  them.  The  women 
did  the  necessary  sewing ; there  was  room  in  the  com- 
pounds for  the  children  to  play  in  the  sunshine,  and  every 
evening  the  monotony  of  their  lives  was  broken  by  a 
Christian  service  with  lively  hymn-singing,  which  they 
could  attend  or  not  as  they  pleased.  Naturally  the  over- 
sight of  these  many  refugees  meant  a great  deal  of  hard 
work. 

It  can  well  be  understood  that  the  sanitary  condition 
of  Moukden  at  this  time  was  not  good.  Epidemics  were 
frequent.  In  our  Refuges  with  their  crowds  of  children, 
measles,  chicken-pox,  and  scarlet  fever  were  constantly 
present,  and  there  was  an  epidemic  of  smallpox  which 
carried  away  a number  of  little  ones.  Isolation  was  im- 
possible except  for  typhus  fever,  for  which  we  had  a 
special  compound.  Fortunately  there  was  no  epidemic 
of  enteric  fever,  though  there  were  all  the  conditions 
likely  to  bring  it  about. 

Throughout  the  war  the  general  hospital  work  was  very 
heavy.  During  my  absence  in  summer  it  had  been  carried 
on  in  the  women’s  hospital  buildings  by  my  assistants, 
and  in  autumn  we  arranged  for  four  separate  hospitals. 
The  men,  being  far  the  most  numerous,  continued  to 
occupy  the  new  spacious  women’s  hospital,  which  had 
been  rebuilt  the  summer  before  the  war,  and  here  both 
men  and  women  out-patients  were  seen.  For  the  women 
in-patients  we  used  an  old  temple  almost  next  door  to 
our  hospital  ruins,  the  San  Yi  Miao,  Temple  of  the  Three 
Righteous  Ones.  The  priest  was  an  opium  wreck,  glad  to 
make  a little  money  by  renting  it  tons.  The  idols  were 
screened  off  by  matting,  and  the  patients  lay  at  their  feet. 
There  were  also  two  temporary  fever  hospitals.  Fortu- 
nately I had  at  this  time  a medical  colleague,  Dr.  W.  A. 


i)R.  CHRISTIE  RED  CROSS  WORK,  19,05  DR.  WANG 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  189 


Young,  and  the  ladies  were  able  to  return  in  De- 
cember. 

Not  only  were  there  the  ordinary  daily  patients,  and 
the  many  sick  among  our  own  and  the  Government 
refugees,  but  we  had  hundreds  of  wounded  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  fighting,  chiefly  men.  Many  poor 
fellows,  and  some  women  too,  lingered  about  their  homes 
too  long,  and  were  shot  among  the  Russians,  or  caught 
between  the  opposing  fires.  We  heard  of  a hundred 
Chinese  lying  wounded  in  a village  ten  miles  away, 
after  the  Sha-ho  battle,  and  made  fruitless  efforts  to 
send  a Red  Cross  party  to  their  help  through  the  Russian 
lines.  Just  at  that  time  a Russian  Baron  called,  and  on 
hearing  our  difficulties  expressed  much  sympathy. 

“ If  you  can  find  a Chinese  carter,”  he  said,  “ who  is 
willing  to  go,  I will  undertake  to  get  him  through  and 
to  give  him  a pass  to  bring  back  the  wounded.” 

Chinese  carters  were  most  reluctant  to  be  hired  by 
Russians,  as  they  did  not  know  to  what  dangers  they 
might  be  exposed  ; but  we  were  well  known  and  easily 
got  a man  who  promised  to  do  his  best.  We  sent  a 
hospital  man  with  him,  and  handed  him  over  to  our 
friend  the  Baron,  who  was  leaving  Moukden  at  the  same 
time.  Then  we  patiently  waited  for  the  wounded  to 
arrive.  Some  days  later  the  carter  returned  in  great 
indignation.  The  Baron  and  his  friends  had  used  the 
cart  to  convey  their  own  baggage  ; he  had  not  been  near 
the  village,  nor  was  he  allowed  to  look  for  wounded. 
Such  heartless  deceit,  however,  is  far  from  characteristic 
of  most  of  the  Russians  whom  we  met. 

The  times  between  the  battles  came  to  be  almost  as 
much  dreaded  by  the  Chinese  as  the  fighting  itself. 
In  the  early  days  of  the  war,  the  Russian  common  soldier 
and  the  Chinese  peasant  were  very  good  friends,  but  the 
blood-lust  of  battle  changes  all  things,  and  deeds  were 
done  too  terrible  to  repeat.  People  were  killed  because 
they  failed  to  understand  what  Russians  meant,  or 


190 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


because  unwilling  to  give  up  their  animals.  A man  was 
made  to  lead  some  Cossacks  to  a village,  and  because  he 
could  not  run  fast  enough  they  bayoneted  him.  A party 
of  eighteen  farmers  and  labourers  were  accused  of  being 
brigands,  tied  with  ropes  to  some  Cossacks’  horses,  and 
made  to  run  the  forty  miles  to  Moukden.  Two  fell  ex- 
hausted and  were  killed  on  the  spot.  On  arrival  the 
remaining  sixteen  were  acquitted,  but  several  suffered 
long  and  sorely  from  that  painful  journey.  A whole 
family  were  hiding  in  a pit  when  some  Russians  passed. 
Someone  suggested  that  they  were  Japanese  spies,  and 
the  soldiers  fired  down  on  them,  killing  all  but  one  woman, 
who  was  left  for  dead.  Some  time  later  another  Russian 
company  passed.  Hearing  her  groans,  one  of  them  had 
pity  on  her  and  had  her  carried  into  Moukden,  where  she 
came  to  our  hospital.  Such  deeds  of  kindness  and  mercy 
on  the  part  of  the  Russians  were  common,  more  so  than 
the  deeds  of  cruelty. 

During  the  battle  of  Moukden  very  many  Chinese  were 
killed.  Sometimes  the  line  of  firing  would  swing  round 
suddenly  and  a village  would  find  itself  overwhelmed 
and  cut  off  from  retreat.  Not  a few  were  killed  or  wounded 
when  fleeing  from  their  burning  dwellings.  One  of  our 
Bible  women  remained  in  her  home  all  the  time,  though 
it  was  in  the  very  midst  of  the  fighting,  and  bullets  and 
shells  rained  around.  The  Russians  occupied  the  village 
and  loopholed  the  walls  ; they  were  driven  out  and  the 
Japanese  occupied  it ; still  she  and  her  old  husband 
crouched  and  prayed,  and  then  praised  God  for  their 
deliverance.  Their  son  was  hired  by  the  Japanese  as  a 
cook,  and  would  only  serve  them  if  his  mother  was 
allowed  to  remain.  When  the  Russian  fire  became  very 
hot,  the  Japanese  directed  her  to  stand  up  against  the 
northern  wall  between  the  two  windows  by  which  the 
bullets  were  entering. 

When  Moukden  was  evacuated  and  the  fighting  was  at 
our  doors,  the  wounded  poured  into  the  hospital.  Early 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  191 


in  the  morning,  that  last  day  of  the  battle,  they  began  to 
arrive,  and  soon  we  forgot  the  sound  of  the  guns.  Hearing 
that  a number  of  Chinese  and  some  Russians  were  lying 
wounded  outside  the  city  wall,  we  sent  out  Red  Cross 
stretcher-bearers.  By  9 a.m.  the  operating-room  pre- 
sented a lively  scene,  and  all  day  long  we  were  hard  at 
work,  as  one  after  another  Chinese  and  Russians  were 
carried  in.  When  these  Russians  who  were  left  in  Mouk- 
den  failed  in  their  last  effort  to  escape,  two  of  them  seem 
to  have  gone  mad.  Just  outside  the  northern  east  gate 
were  large  Chinese  barracks,  turned  by  Government  into  a 
Refuge  where  some  two  thousand  people  were  housed. 
Into  this  these  men  ran,  shooting  off  their  rifles  at  anyone 
they  met.  A woman  was  nursing  her  baby  a few  weeks 
old,  when  one  burst  into  her  room  and  fired.  The  bullet 
passed  through  mother  and  child,  killing  it  and  wounding 
her  severely,  and  then  wounded  her  twelve-year-old 
daughter.  In  that  one  room  two  were  killed  and  four 
wounded. 

Our  ministrations  were  not  confined  to  Chinese  and 
Russians.  The  same  day  a Japanese  soldier,  evidently 
worn  out  and  ill,  stumbled  along  our  terrace.  He  was 
invited  into  one  of  the  compounds,  and  after  being 
refreshed  with  tea  was  directed  to  our  hospital,  whose 
Red  Cross  flag  he  evidently  welcomed.  Then  another 
Japanese,  seeing  the  flag,  came  to  tell  us  that  there  were 
some  wounded  just  outside  the  wall.  Some  hospital  men 
were  taken  out  to  help  them,  and  two  carts  full  of  Japanese 
wounded  were  brought  in.  We  got  a room  ready  for  them 
with  all  speed,  as  it  was  manifestly  undesirable  that  they 
and  our  wounded  Russians  should  be  together.  During 
the  next  few  days  we  admitted  a good  many  Japanese  and 
Russians,  and  did  our  best  for  their  comfort  and  healing. 
The  Russians  were  at  first  in  terror  that  the  Japanese 
would  kill  them,  and  grateful  to  be  with  us,  but  by  the 
time  they  were  removed  as  prisoners  their  fears  had  died 
away.  The  J apanese  too  left  us  when  their  own  hospitals 


192 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


were  in  full  working  order.  For  our  matter-of-course 
impartial  Red  Cross  help,  we  received  the  generous 
recognition  of  both  Russians  and  Japanese. 

Outside  Moukden  the  line  of  the  Russian  retreat  was 
strewn  with  warm  caps,  heavy  felt-lined  boots,  and  other 
things  which  the  Russians  had  cast  aside  in  their  haste 
and  heat  those  mild  spring  days  ; and  all  the  camps 
round  the  city,  like  the  cavalry  camp  close  to  us,  were 
Uttered  with  articles  of  value  to  the  Chinese.  The  battle 
had  hardly  passed  by  when  they  stole  out  to  pick  up  what 
they  could,  in  spite  of  the  risk  of  being  shot  as  looters  by 
the  Japanese  soldiers  who  were  gathering  in  Russian 
transport  wagons,  hand  carts,  field  guns,  and  many  other 
articles. 

Among  the  things  picked  up  by  the  Chinese  all  over 
the  countryside,  there  were  unfortunately  many  un- 
exploded shells,  hand  grenades,  etc.,  which  caused  scores 
of  deaths  and  many  hundred  wounds.  One  man  near  the 
North  Tomb  found  a huge  shell  with  part  of  the  fuse  left. 
Thinking  it  was  a lamp,  he  took  it  home,  placed  it  on  a 
table  to  show  to  the  household,  and  fit  the  fuse.  Only  one 
wounded  man  was  left  alive  of  that  company.  Another 
put  his  find  into  the  fire  to  melt  it,  and  the  whole  house 
was  demolished  and  all  in  it  lulled  or  wounded. 

During  the  succeeding  months  many  children  and  others 
were  seriously  injured  by  playing  with  these  dangerous 
explosives — eyes  were  destroyed,  hands  and  legs  blown 
off,  and  a good  many  were  killed  outright.  When  the 
cultivation  of  the  ground  began,  ploughs  and  hoes 
exploded  shells  and  cartridges  by  accident,  with  dis- 
astrous consequences.  Even  as  late  as  two  years  after- 
wards such  accidents  continued  to  happen.  In  a few 
months  we  amputated  in  Moukden  alone  from  this  one 
cause  over  a hundred  hands  or  parts  of  hands  and  many 
legs,  besides  treating  other  injuries. 

The  condition  of  the  country  round  Moukden  after  the 
battle  was  most  insanitary,  though  the  Japanese,  fully 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  193 


awake  to  the  danger,  used  every  possible  means  of 
remedying  it.  The  dogs,  left  without  homes  and  preying 
on  the  dead,  became  ferocious  wild  beasts.  One  actually 
entered  our  Refuge  in  the  hospital  ruins,  and  tore  a baby 
from  the  hang.  It  was  driven  off  with  difficulty,  leaving 
the  child  severely  bitten. 

The  battle  was  no  sooner  over  than  men  among  the 
refugees  began  to  slip  away  back  to  their  homes  ; but 
women  and  children  continued  to  arrive  from  north  of 
the  city  where  the  bulk  of  the  Japanese  army  now  lay, 
so  that  for  a time  our  numbers  increased  instead  of 
diminishing.  All  the  refugees  were  anxious  to  get  home 
in  good  time  to  start  ploughing,  which  is  usually  done  in 
April.  There  were  serious  difficulties  before  these  poor 
people.  The  homes  of  at  least  half  had  been  destroyed, 
and  the  others  wrecked  and  plundered,  doors,  windows, 
and  furniture  being  burned  as  fuel.  Their  animals  and 
farm  implements  were  gone,  and  they  had  no  grain  for 
seed.  We  consulted  with  the  Chinese  Government,  and 
approached  the  Japanese  authorities  on  their  behalf,  and 
finally  it  was  arranged  that  in  those  districts  where  the 
destruction  had  been  most  general  the  people  were  to  be 
allowed  to  occupy  the  “ dug-outs  ” used  by  the  Russians 
and  Japanese  during  the  winter.  The  Governor-General 
made  a small  grant  to  the  head  of  each  household  to  buy 
seed  to  make  a fresh  start. 

Gradually  the  people  returned  to  their  land,  making 
shift  as  best  they  could  for  the  summer.  There  was  a very 
good  harvest,  and  before  winter  most  families  had  built 
themselves  some  sort  of  home.  There  were  still  many 
fields  and  great  stretches  of  land  uncultivated,  and  the 
rival  armies  faced  each  other  farther  north  far  into  the 
summer.  Even  when  peace  was  signed  it  was  but  slowly 
that  the  Japanese  army  was  withdrawn,  and  the  effects 
of  the  war  were  felt  in  Manchuria  for  many  a day.  In  the 
aspect  of  the  landscape  there  was  one  conspicuous  change, 
the  disappearance  of  trees.  To  this  day  there  are  long, 


194 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


bare,  treeless  stretches  where  formerly  there  were  clusters 
of  poplars,  pines,  or  willows  every  few  hundred  yards. 

Throughout  the  Japanese  occupation  our  relations  with 
their  officials  were  most  cordial.  Their  gratitude  to  us 
for  receiving  their  wounded  was  the  beginning  of  constant 
friendly  intercourse.  Marshal  Oyama,  the  Commander- 
in-Chief,  himself  called  on  us,  a most  kindly  and  winning 
personality,  of  simple,  unaffected  dignity.  We  could 
only  talk  through  our  interpreter,  and  this  was  also  the 
case  with  General  Oku,  whose  decimated  army  occupied 
Moukden.  But  General  Fukushima  and  others  knew 
English,  and  they  called  frequently.  Altogether  we  have 
a most  happy  recollection  of  our  intercourse  with  the 
Japanese  Headquarters  Staff.  Among  military  attaches 
and  war  correspondents  with  both  armies  we  also  made 
many  friends. 

At  last  Japanese  military  occupation  came  to  an  end, 
soldiers  were  withdrawn  to  the  railway  zone,  which  was 
now  Japanese  from  Port  Arthur  to  Kwan-cheng-tze, 
and  only  lesser  officials  were  left  in  Moukden  and  other 
places.  When  the  Chinese  began  to  breathe  again  after 
the  terrors  and  hardships  of  war,  there  was  a general 
feeling  of  disillusionment  and  bitter  disappointment. 
The  justice  and  mercy  of  the  Japanese  at  the  time  of  the 
previous  war  had  been  extolled,  and  all  excesses  forgotten. 
The  victors  had  now  a great  opportunity  of  making 
lasting  friends  of  these  Manchurian  farmers,  so  often 
harried  by  war,  who  were  eager  to  hail  them  as  brethren 
and  deliverers.  Thus  the  way  might  easily  have  been 
paved  for  the  permanent  possession  of  the  country, 
desired  by  many.  But  whatever  their  leaders  and  higher 
officials  might  aim  at,  the  ordinary  Japanese  soldiers 
and  civilians  who  came  to  Manchuria  were  incapable  of 
realizing  this  position.  A great  nation  had  been  defeated, 
Japan  was  exalted  and  supreme,  China  was  nothing. 
They  came  not  as  deliverers  but  as  victors,  and  treated 
the  Chinese  with  contempt  as  a conquered  people. 


THE  SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  INNOCENT  195 


Then  with  peace  came  crowds  of  the  lowest  and  most 
undesirable  part  of  the  Japanese  nation.  The  Chinese 
continued  to  suffer  as  before,  and  the  disappointment 
made  their  resentment  the  more  keen.  The  deeds  of 
soldiers,  however  brutal,  they  might  readily  condone, 
knowing  what  their  own  soldiery  would  do ; but  now 
that  the  war  was  over  they  could  see  no  reason  for  the 
continued  injustice  and  extortion  of  the  many  low-class 
civilians  who  remained.  As  one  remarked  : 

“ The  Russians  sometimes  took  our  property  for 
nothing,  but  more  often  paid  four  times  its  worth.  The 
Japanese  profess  to  pay  for  everything,  but  never  give 
more  than  a quarter  the  real  value.” 

Thus  there  grew  and  rankled  in  the  popular  mind  an 
unfortunate  dislike  for  the  Japanese,  a suspicion  of  their 
motives,  an  unwillingness  to  have  dealings  with  them, 
which  feelings  are  difficult  to  eradicate. 


XXI 

RECONSTRUCTION 

H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun,  Governor-General,  1905-1907 

“ The  common  problem,  yours,  mine,  every  one’s. 

Is — not  to  fancy  what  were  fair  in  life 
Provided  it  could  be — but,  finding  first 
What  may  be,  then  find  how  to  make  it  fair 
Up  to  our  means  : a very  different  thing  ! ” 

“ Bishop JBlougram  ” — R.  Browning. 

WITH  the  close  of  the  Russo-Japanese  war  Manchuria 
entered  on  a new  era.  Hitherto  she  had  been  left 
in  a haphazard  way  to  old-fashioned  officials  who  were 
for  the  most  part  unenlightened  and  conservative, 
knowing  nothing  of  foreign  countries,  looking  upon  the 
study  of  the  Confucian  Classics  as  the  only  education 
worthy  of  the  name,  and  quite  ignorant  of  the  aspirations 
which  were  stirring  the  minds  of  a large  part  of  China’s 
youth.  To  give  them  their  due,  be  it  said  that  many 
among  these  officials  were  humane,  unselfish,  conscien- 
tious, seeking  according  to  their  lights  to  do  their  best 
for  the  people  to  whom  they  stood  in  the  place  of  father. 

H.E.  Tseng  Chi , Governor-General  during  both  Boxer 
and  war  times,  was  one  of  these.  He  had  not  sufficient 
strength  of  character  nor  insight  into  the  trend  of  events 
to  make  him  hold  out  against  Boxer  influences,  but  the 
tragedies  of  that  summer  cut  him  to  the  heart,  and  when 
all  was  over  he  was  very  willing  to  atone.  He  was  then 
for  the  first  time  brought  into  personal  contact  with 
foreigners,  both  the  Russians  and  the  missionaries.  His 
attitude  to  the  former  was  a helpless  dignified  aloofness, 

196 


H.E.  CHAO  ER  SUN,  VICEROY 
One  of  the  men  available,  a notable  financier  . . . the  future. 


t 


RECONSTRUCTION 


197 


and  to  the  latter  an  apologetic,  courteous,  but  somewhat 
distant  friendliness.  The  best  of  his  kindly  nature  was 
shown  in  his  treatment  of  the  refugees.  They  were  his 
children  in  trouble,  and  he  strained  his  financial  resources 
to  the  utmost  to  help  them. 

The  Russo-Japanese  war  seems  to  have  awakened  the 
Central  Government  somewhat  tardily  to  the  importance 
of  Manchuria.  For  the  first  time  a Governor-General  of 
outstanding  merit  was  appointed,  not  a Manchu,  as 
always  before,  but  a Chinese  Bamierman,  Chao  Er  Sun , 
one  of  the  ablest  men  available  and  a notable  financier. 
He  was  not  young,  he  had  never  been  abroad,  he  knew 
no  foreign  language,  his  own  education  had  been  entirely 
on  the  old  lines,  and  he  was  not  in  sympathy  with  the 
Progressive  Party  overthrown  at  the  coup  d'etat.  In  spite 
of  all  this,  he  was  a man  of  the  future,  not  of  the  past. 
He  saw  what  China  needed,  he  understood  what  Man- 
churia had  to  fear,  and  he  threw  himself  with  energy 
into  the  task  of  introducing  the  most  needed  reforms. 
This  he  did  in  a quiet,  gradual  way  which  did  not  alarm 
the  people.  He  was  with  us  less  than  two  years,  but  in 
that  time  Manchuria  went  far. 

Chao  Er  Sun's  watchword  might  have  been  expressed 
as  “ Progress,  Efficiency,  and  Economy.”  Scores  of  paid 
officials  had  little  or  no  work  to  do  ; these  he  dismissed, 
and  sought  to  gather  round  him  men  like  himself,  eager 
for  good  hard  work.  His  personal  expenses  he  cut  down 
to  the  lowest  point,  living  simply,  with  a small  retinue 
and  no  pomp.  He  abolished  the  restrictions  at  his  gate, 
which  prevented  any  man  from  having  access  to  him 
without  first  feeing  heavily  half  a dozen  underlings,  and 
opened  his  ear  to  the  appeal  of  all.  He  did  his  best  to 
discourage  bribery  and  to  reward  uprightness  and  faith- 
fulness to  duty.  He  frequently  went  out  in  disguise  to 
find  out  for  himself  the  true  condition  of  things,  and  in 
this  way  visited  courts  of  justice  and  other  public  institu- 
tions. His  influence  was  consistently  exerted  in  favour 


198 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


of  elevating  the  moral  tone  of  the  community.  Naturally 
he  made  many  enemies,  and  it  was  some  time  before  his 
sterling  worth  was  generally  recognized. 

One  of  his  most  striking  reforms  was  the  abolition  of 
opium  smoking . This  vice  had  never  been  so  common  in 
Manchuria  as  in  some  parts  of  China,  still  there  were  a 
large  number  of  smokers,  chiefly  among  the  well-to-do 
and  yamen  employees,  and  many  through  its  use  had 
sunk  to  be  the  dregs  of  the  population.  Merchants  would 
have  no  man  in  their  employ  who  smoked,  and  it  was 
everywhere  regarded  without  qualification  as  a vice, 
though  a fashionable  one.  The  cultivation  of  the  poppy 
was  illegal,  but  very  lucrative.  During  the  years  since 
1900  it  had  rapidly  increased,  some  of  those  officials 
whose  duty  it  was  to  prevent  it  receiving  a share  of  the 
gains.  Year  by  year  the  poppies  waved  more  unblushingly 
their  beautiful  alluring  heads.  We  began  to  see  fields 
of  them  close  to  the  city,  in  inconspicuous  hollows  aside 
from  the  main  road.  Then  they  boldly  crept  nearer, 
till  in  Chao  Er  Sun’s  first  summer  we  could  feast  our 
eyes  on  the  exquisitely  delicate  tints  of  their  loveliness 
within  a few  hundred  yards  of  our  doors  ; and  when  the 
opium  harvest  came,  dozens  of  children  would  stroll 
about  sucking  the  last  juices  from  the  wilted  heads  of  the 
“ withering  flower  of  dreams  ” they  had  been  helping  to 
garner. 

In  accordance  with  the  Imperial  Edict  which  had 
hitherto  been  a dead  letter,  the  Governor-General  now 
issued  his  commands.  Poppy  cultivation  was  to  cease. 
Opium  dens  all  over  the  country,  which  had  been  in- 
creasing in  number  and  prosperity,  were  given  six  months 
to  close  their  doors.  Opium  smokers  over  sixty  years  of 
age  might  receive  an  official  permit,  but  all  others  must 
give  up  its  use  within  a given  time  or  suffer  punish- 
ment. 

These  laws  were  carried  out.  One  by  one  opium  dens 
ceased  from  our  midst.  Gangs  of  men  could  be  seen 


RECONSTRUCTION 


199 


mending  the  city  roads  under  a guard — these  were  con- 
victed opium  smokers  whose  punishment  was  this  open- 
air  exercise  instead  of  lazy  confinement  in  a close  prison. 
When  summer  came,  not  a poppy  field  was  to  be  seen  or 
heard  of.  Owing  to  this  vigorous  action,  Manchuria  was 
one  of  the  first  provinces  closed  to  Indian  opium. 

Only  once,  a year  or  two  later,  did  an  opium  poppy 
appear  again  among  us.  A farmer  just  outside  the  wall 
ventured  to  assume  that  as  Chao  Er  Sun  was  no  longer 
here,  he  might  safely  make  some  money.  As  the  weeks 
went  on,  we  sadly  saw  the  poppies  grow,  till  they  bloomed 
in  the  hundred  shades  of  their  fatal  beauty.  Then  just 
as  the  field  was  ripe  for  harvest,  there  came  one  morning 
a band  of  ruthless  soldiers,  who  cut  down  and  destroyed 
every  bloom,  while  the  farmer  wrung  his  hands  in  vain. 

Opium  has  gone,  but  unfortunately  an  illicit  traffic  in 
morphia  has  come,  most  of  it  from  Japan.  Tabloids  and 
hypodermic  syringes  are  sold  openly,  and  pedlars  go 
about  the  country  charging  a couple  of  cents  for  an 
injection.  Patients  frequently  present  themselves  at  our 
hospital  with  large  patches  of  diseased  tissue  dotted  with 
the  marks  of  dirty  hypodermic  needles.  The  Chinese 
Government  is  awake  to  the  new  danger,  and  it  is  ex- 
pected that  international  action  will  soon  be  taken  to 
stamp  out  this  evil  traffic. 

Education  also  received  the  new  Governor-General’s 
earnest  care.  Till  now  there  had  been  no  such  thing  as  a 
Government  school.  Teaching  was  carried  on  privately, 
and  was  in  the  hands  of  old-fashioned  schoolmasters,  each 
having  under  him  from  a dozen  to  a score  of  boys,  in  his 
own  house,  a rented  room,  or  the  home  of  one  of  the 
pupils.  In  well-to-do  households  a teacher  was  engaged 
for  the  family,  girls  being  sometimes  taught  along  with 
boys.  The  instruction  consisted  of  reading,  writing,  and 
memorizing  the  old  classics,  and,  for  advanced  pupils, 
explaining  these  classics  and  writing  formal  essays  on 
Confucian  themes.  The  Empress-Dowager  had  issued 


200 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


what  was  in  effect  a repetition  of  some  of  the  Emperor’s 
unfortunate  Reform  Edicts  of  some  years  before.  The 
old-fashioned  Confucian  examinations  for  degrees  were 
to  be  superseded,  and  modern  subjects  introduced.  To 
this  end  Government  schools  were  to  be  established. 

The  time  was  ripe  and  more  than  ripe  for  such  a change. 
Everywhere  there  was  a keen  desire  for  modern  education, 
and  a demand  for  instruction  in  the  sciences  and  the 
English  language.  Manchuria  had  not  been  one  of  the 
best  educated  provinces.  The  large  bulk  of  her  immi- 
grants were  of  the  illiterate  classes,  and  only  a small 
proportion  of  the  rural  population  could  read.  In  the 
cities  and  towns  the  educated  were  more  numerous.  Our 
Christian  Church  had  always  emphasized  the  importance 
of  its  children  learning  to  read,  and  had  many  village 
schools  with  old-fashioned  schoolmasters.  In  a good 
many  of  the  centres  where  missionaries  lived,  there  were 
also  Middle  Schools  of  a more  advanced  kind,  where 
modern  subjects  were  taught.  Girls’  schools  had  early 
been  opened,  and  had  steadily  developed  and  increased 
in  number.  The  only  institution  in  Manchuria  of  colle- 
giate rank  was  the  Christian  Arts  College,  but  its  work, 
and  that  of  all  the  schools,  had  been  seriously  hindered  by 
the  war.  Manchuria  more  than  any  other  province  had 
been  brought  into  close  contact  with  foreign  nations, 
and  forced  to  realize  the  practical  necessity  for  know- 
ledge. But  for  this  third  war  within  her  borders,  she 
would  have  started  her  educational  career  immediately 
on  the  publication  of  the  new  Edict.  Our  energetic 
Governor-General  now  acted  promptly. 

Several  large  boys’  schools  and  one  for  girls  were 
opened,  professing  all  the  modern  subjects,  tuition,  books, 
and  stationery  being  free.  As  few  trained  teachers  were 
available,  the  teaching  was  at  first  of  the  most  super- 
ficial kind.  A Confucian  schoolmaster  would  buy  an 
arithmetic,  a geography,  a history  of  China,  a science 
primer,  devote  a couple  of  months  to  their  study,  and  get 


RECONSTRUCTION 


201 


an  appointment  to  teach  them.  Much  of  the  instruction 
was  useless,  but  the  best  had  to  be  made  of  the  materials 
available,  and  year  by  year  things  improved. 

The  securing  of  teachers  for  girls’  schools  presented 
special  difficulties,  as  it  was  decreed  that  they  must  be 
women,  and  where  were  sufficient  of  these  to  be  found  ? 
The  first  school  was  opened  as  a normal  and  elementary 
one,  a large  salary  was  promised  to  all  who  passed 
through  the  two  years’  free  training,  and  an  entrance 
examination  was  held  of  a very  elementary  nature. 
Tempted  by  the  golden  inducements,  a good  many 
Christian  girls  and  young  women  applied,  and  they  easily 
came  out  at  the  head  of  the  fist.  The  Moukden  Christian 
Girls’  School  was  thus  deprived  of  most  of  its  advanced 
pupils,  but  at  the  same  time  it  became  known  that  in  it 
was  to  be  had  the  real  thing  in  modern  education. 
Although  fees  are  charged,  and  neither  food  nor  books 
given  free,  it  has  always  had  more  applying  for  entrance 
than  could  be  admitted,  non-Christians  as  well  as  Chris- 
tians, and  its  numbers  have  risen  to  160.  To  this  day  a 
large  proportion  of  Government  girls’  school  teachers  are 
Christians. 

With  female  education  came  a marked  change  in 
certain  social  customs.  It  had  hitherto  been  considered 
improper  for  girls  over  ten  or  young  women  of  good 
character  to  appear  on  the  streets  without  an  elder 
woman.  Now  they  had  to  go  daily  to  school.  So  all 
schoolgirls  were  provided  with  badges  which  they  wore 
conspicuously  and  which  protected  them  from  insults. 
Gradually  since  then  even  this  has  become  superfluous. 

Soon  after  Chao  Er  Sun  came  to  Moukden  a Chinese 
daily  paper  was  started,  and  later  on  another,  and  before 
long  they  had  a large  circulation. 

Along  with  modern  methods  in  education,  material 
reforms  were  introduced.  These  were  most  in  evidence  in 
Moukden  itself.  The  streets  had  been  hopeless  quagmires 
in  wet  weather  and  whirling  dust  in  dry.  The  Russians 


202 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


had  improved  matters  by  forcing  each  merchant  or 
householder  on  the  main  streets  to  level  and  mend  in 
front  of  his  own  door,  but  now  macadamized  roads  were 
made,  steam-rollers  and  water-carts  came  into  use.  With 
change  of  roads  came  change  of  vehicles.  Rickshas 
appeared  in  hundreds,  the  Russian  drosky  became 
common,  and  officials  drove  in  foreign  broughams. 

Having  had  some  years  of  contact  with  Russia,  Mouk- 
den  no  longer  went  to  bed  with  the  sun.  The  formerly 
dark  and  deserted  streets  were  now  trodden  in  the  evening 
by  wayfarers,  lantern  in  hand.  This  fugitive  light  being 
manifestly  insufficient,  street  lamps  had  been  placed  at  all 
Government  offices  and  public  buildings,  and  now  it  was 
ordained  that  householders  should  maintain  lamps  outside 
their  own  doors.  A few  years  later  electric  light  was 
provided  by  Government  on  all  the  main  streets. 

The  need  for  police  in  the  city  was  now  beginning  to  be 
felt ; the  war  had  brought  about  many  changes  for  good 
and  evil,  and  the  old  simple  ways  were  passing.  So  a 
strong  force  of  semi-military  police  was  organized,  and 
little  blue  sentry-boxes  appeared  at  street  corners.  Night 
and  day  these  guardians  of  the  public  peace  watched  over 
the  city,  and  before  long  were  even  stationed  on  the 
thoroughfares  to  control  the  traffic.  A Board  of  Sanita- 
tion was  also  formed,  very  imperfect,  but  a beginning 
in  the  right  direction,  and  for  the  first  time  in  the  history 
of  Moukden  laws  were  issued  regarding  sanitary  matters. 

So  much  was  the  need  felt  for  increased  medical  help, 
that  the  Governor-General  consulted  me  as  to  the  opening 
of  a Government  Hospital  and  Dispensary.  A compound 
in  the  north  of  the  city  was  arranged  for  the  purpose,  and 
put  in  charge  of  two  Chinese  graduates  of  the  Government 
Medical  School  in  Tientsin.  They  became  very  friendly 
with  us,  and  there  has  been  ever  since  the  most  cordial 
intercourse  between  the  two  hospitals. 

All  these  changes  naturally  meant  expenditure,  and  it 
says  much  for  Chao’s  financial  ability,  that  he  carried  out 


RECONSTRUCTION 


203 


his  plans  by  means  of  economy,  retrenchment,  and 
reorganization  rather  than  increase  of  taxation,  and  that 
he  left  a large  balance  in  the  Treasury  when  he  was 
transferred  to  another  province. 

Our  personal  intercourse  with  His  Excellency  Chao  Er 
Sun  was  throughout  of  the  most  pleasant  kind.  Soon 
alter  his  arrival  I called  on  him,  and  found  to  my  surprise 
that  he  knew  all  about  us  and  was  quite  familiar  with  the 
part  we  had  played  in  the  recent  relief  work.  He  inquired 
with  great  interest  about  our  hospital,  and  from  then  on 
was  our  very  good  friend.  He  came  frequently  to  see  me, 
sometimes  in  quite  an  informal  way. 

The  hospital  was  at  that  time  in  temporary  and  most 
inconvenient  quarters  in  the  tumbledown  old  San  Yi 
Miao , the  temple  on  our  Small  River  bank.  Its  accom- 
modation was  ridiculously  inadequate.  Many  of  the 
patients  had  to  wait  in  the  open  air.  There  was  only 
3ne  room  for  both  consulting  and  dispensing,  and  the 
iispensers  had  hardly  space  to  make  up  the  medicines. 
Among  the  dilapidated  idols  which  were  partly  screened 
flf,  the  in-patients  were  uncomfortably  housed,  and  in 
summer  some  were  sheltered  in  a tent  in  the  compound, 
rhe  buildings  were  old,  draughty,  and  insanitary,  with 
lamp  floors  and  leaky  hangs  which  smoked  continually, 
[n  this  hospital,  such  as  it  was,  we  were  able  to  treat 
arger  numbers  than  since  the  Boxer  troubles. 

The  war  had  prevented  our  rebuilding,  but  in  the  spring 
}f  1906  we  were  at  last  able  to  go  forward.  Colonel 
MacPherson,  of  the  Royal  Army  Medical  Corps,  one  of  the 
British  attaches  with  General  Oku’s  army,  and  an  expert 
n hospital  construction,  had  guided  us  in  laying  out  the 
ground,  and  we  were  now  able  to  feel  almost  thankful 
shat  the  Boxers  had  made  such  a clean  sweep  of  the  old 
3atched  buildings.  Our  great  difficulty  was  money. 
Materials  were  several  times  their  former  cost,  and  wages 
nad  risen,  so  that  the  indemnity  for  the  old  hospital  would 
not  go  more  than  half-way  to  building  the  new.  We 


204 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


decided,  however,  to  keep  to  our  plan,  and  build  as  many 
wards  as  we  had  money  for.  Marshal  Oyama,  in  recog- 
nition of  our  help  to  his  wounded,  had  given  orders  that 
all  wood  for  the  building  was  to  be  conveyed  by  rail  from 
Newchwang  free  of  charge.  This  meant  a great  deal  to 
us,  for  no  seasoned  native  wood  could  be  had  at  that 
time,  and  the  American  pine  which  we  bought  would 
have  cost  several  hundred  pounds  to  bring  up-country, 
if,  indeed,  the  Japanese  railway  would  have  undertaken 
its  transport. 

Some  weeks  before  building  began  I was  calling  on  the 
Governor-General,  and  he  inquired  minutely  about  the 
new  hospital  and  how  much  money  we  lacked  for  the 
building. 

“ Leave  it  to  me  ! ” he  said.  “ That  will  be  managed 
all  right.” 

Three  weeks  later  he  called  and  handed  me  Tls.4000, 
or  about  £600.  With  this  we  built  a ward  which  bears  his 
name.  Other  friends  also  came  to  our  help.  One  carted 
all  the  bricks  and  tiles  without  charge,  equal  to  a donation 
of  £80.  The  director  of  the  Imperial  Chinese  Railway 
ordered  that  our  Portland  cement  and  floor-tiles  be 
conveyed  free  from  Tong-shan  to  Hsin-min-tun.  And 
there  were  many  smaller  contributions. 

In  the  spring  of  1907  the  hospital  was  ready  for  use. 
It  consisted  of  a two -story  dispensary  block,  with 
accommodation  for  assistants  and  dispensers  upstairs  ; 
a bright,  airy,  modern  operating-room ; three  wards 
with  accommodation  for  sixty  patients  ; and  outhouses. 
To  complete  the  plan  two  more  large  wings  w^ere  necessary, 
and  some  other  buildings,  but  for  these  we  had  so  far  no 
funds. 

Our  good  Governor-General  agreed  to  perform  the 
opening  ceremony  on  5 March,  and  for  three  days  there 
was  high  festival  on  the  Small  River  bank.  The  day 
before  the  opening,  one  cart  after  another  arrived  with 
gifts,  bright  silk  scrolls  and  banners,  a beautiful  silk  flag 


CORRIDOR  OF  THE  HOSPITAL  I WARDS  OPENING  ON  EITHER  SIDE 


RECONSTRUCTION 


205 


with  the  Imperial  dragon,  a new  Red  Cross  flag,  lanterns, 
lamps,  clocks,  etc.  Many  of  these  were  from  the  Chris- 
tians. On  the  important  day  all  was  gay  with  flags  and 
streamers,  the  Chinese  dragon  having  the  place  of  honour 
at  the  top  of  our  tall  flagstaff,  above  the  Red  Cross. 
Besides  the  Governor-General,  the  Consuls  and  all  the 
leading  officials  in  Moukden  came,  to  the  number  of 
about  120,  the  most  picturesque  among  them  being  the 
two  Great  Lamas,  head  of  all  the  Lamas  in  Manchuria. 
Tables  were  spread  in  the  large  new  waiting-room,  and 
after  seeing  over  the  premises  there  were  refreshments 
and  speeches.  We  took  care  not  to  refer  to  the  Boxer 
destruction,  but  the  Governor-General  himself  alluded 
regretfully  to  the  grief  and  loss  we  had  suffered,  for  which, 
he  said,  “ China  is  ashamed  to-day.”  Before  performing 
the  ceremony  he  had  presented  me  with  an  additional 
$1000  (£100)  towards  the  building  fund,  and  in  concluding 
his  speech  he  appealed  to  the  wealthy  men  of  Moukden 
to  come  forward  and  make  up  the  necessary  amount. 

“ It  is  my  wish,”  he  said,  “ that  this  beneficent  institu- 
tion be  finished  before  the  end  of  the  year,”  and  his  wish 
was  gratified. 

The  next  day  there  was  a solemn  dedicatory  service 
attended  by  several  hundred  Christians  ; refreshments 
were  supplied,  and  they  all  saw  over  the  premises.  On 
the  third  day  we  had  about  150  of  the  leading  merchants 
in  Moukden,  with  the  President  of  the  Merchants’ 
Guild  at  their  head,  and  during  their  repast  one  after 
another  expressed  a desire  that  whatever  was  lacking 
for  the  building  should  be  made  up.  The  fete  days  were 
concluded  by  an  exhibition  of  fireworks,  provided  by  the 
merchants,  on  the  river  bank  in  front  of  the  hospital, 
viewed  by  a dense  crowd  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
numbering  from  forty  to  fifty  thousand  men,  women, 
and  children.  The  thoughts  of  many  went  back  to  the 
last  great  gathering  there  seven  years  before,  when  the 
hospital  buildings  went  up  in  flames.  This  was  a very 


206 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


different  crowd,  peaceful  and  good-natured,  needing  not 
a single  policeman  to  keep  them  in  order. 

The  following  day  the  Chairman  of  the  Merchant  Guild 
called  on  me  and  said  : “I  am  authorized  to  tell  you  that 
you  are  to  go  on  with  your  building,  and  to  come  to  me 
for  money  as  you  need  it.”  During  the  summer  I again 
and  again  proved  the  sincerity  of  this  promise.  Whatever 
I asked  was  given,  and  by  November  the  whole  hospital 
was  complete,  providing  accommodation  for  110  patients. 

The  old  temple,  the  San  Yi  Miao,  which  the  hospital 
had  temporarily  occupied,  had  been  bought  by  Govern- 
ment some  time  before  we  left  it,  but  we  were  allowed  to 
remain  in  it  rent  free  till  our  new  building  was  ready. 
A few  days  after  our  opening  ceremony,  workmen 
arrived  to  pull  down  and  to  build  up,  in  order  to  fit  the 
place  and  some  adjoining  open  ground  for  a Government 
Industrial  School.  They  were  immediately  faced  with  the 
difficulty  : What  was  to  be  done  with  the  idols  ? All  the 
other  Buddhist  temples  in  Moukden  were  invited  to 
accept  these  homeless  gods,  but  only  one  was  considered 
worth  removing.  The  rest  were,  amid  laughter  and 
mockery,  carried  out  to  the  narrow  terrace  before  the 
temple  and  left  for  some  days  exposed  to  the  elements. 
Even  there  they  were  in  the  way  of  the  workmen,  and 
one  day  a man  seized  a huge  broken  limb  and  threw  it 
over  the  edge  of  the  terrace  towards  the  water.  A shout 
of  laughter  went  up,  a crowd  soon  gathered,  and  with 
much  merriment  and  jeering  the  old  gods  were  one  after 
another  smashed,  and  heaved  piecemeal  into  the  river. 


XXII 


SPIRITUAL  UPLIFT 

“ We  cannot  kindle  when  we  will 

The  fire  that  in  the  heart  resides. 

The  spirit  bloweth  and  is  still. 

In  mystery  the  soul  abides. 

But  tasks  in  hours  of  insight  willed 
Can  be  through  hours  of  gloom  fulfilled.’ ; 

R.  W.  Emerson. 

A CHRISTIAN  community  which  had  been  subjected 
to  such  a series  of  devastating  wars  and  searching 
persecutions  as  had  the  Manchurian  Church,  might 
reasonably  be  expected  to  settle  down  thereafter  to  quiet 
development  and  rest,  and  for  some  time  this  was  so. 
The  Boxer  bitterness  died  out,  the  refugee  aid  work 
going  far  to  obliterate  in  the  public  mind  the  line  between 
Church  members  and  outsiders.  Churches  and  meeting- 
houses dotted  the  land  anew.  Two  Moukden  churches  were 
built,  not  in  Chinese  style  this  time,  for  foreign  buildings 
were  now  the  aim  of  all.  When  the  church  for  the  older 
congregation  in  East  Moukden  was  opened  in  1907,  it  was 
crowded  to  the  door,  and  next  day  there  was  a sym- 
pathetic gathering  of  officials,  merchants,  and  others,  to 
express  the  goodwill  of  the  non-Christian  public  to  the 
Christian  Church.  Numbers  were  again  on  the  increase, 
slowly  but  steadily.  Those  who  had  been  suspended  for 
recanting  in  one  form  or  another  had  been  gradually 
readmitted.  There  was  specially  rapid  development  in 
education,  the  standard  aimed  at  being  markedly  higher. 

Below  this  outward  smooth  prosperity  there  slowly 
rose  in  the  heart  of  the  Church  an  undercurrent  of  dis- 

207 


208 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


satisfaction,  a wholesome  though  as  yet  unrecognized 
discontent  with  herself.  The  Chinese  are  not  given  to 
self-analysis,  and  the  standards  of  the  ordinary  Christian 
are  of  the  simplest.  A man  either  believes  and  is  a 
Christian,  or  does  not  believe  and  is  not.  Into  this  child- 
like involuntary  division  of  the  world  into  two  classes 
had  broken  the  Boxer  summer  with  its  many  varieties 
and  degrees  of  apostasy.  It  was  sometimes  the  best  man, 
the  most  truly  spiritual-minded  and  upright,  who  had 
failed  to  stand  in  the  evil  day  ; while  the  easy-going  and 
shallow,  from  force  of  circumstances  or  occasionally  from 
pure  physical  pluck,  had  come  out  of  it  unscathed.  An 
undefinable  consciousness  stirred  in  the  minds  of  many 
that  there  were  questions  they  had  never  thought  of, 
heights  and  depths  in  the  Faith  hitherto  undreamed  of. 

A change  in  the  mental  view-point  of  the  Manchurian 
Christian  was  inevitable  in  this  time  of  political  and 
social  change,  even  apart  from  all  inward  stirrings.  The 
change  seemed  for  a time  not  unlikely  to  take  the  form  of 
an  aggressive  propaganda  to  extend  the  borders  of  the 
Church,  while  more  or  less  relegating  to  the  background 
that  need  felt  so  keenly  by  the  missionaries  and  by  a 
growing  number  of  individual  Christians — the  need  of 
intensifying  the  personal  Christian  life  of  the  Church.  At 
the  annual  meetings  of  Synod,  especially  that  in  1907, 
there  was  a great  enthusiasm  for  pressing  forward.  A 
Missionary  Society  was  formed ; the  unevangelized 
northern  province  of  Tsi-tsi-har  or  Hei-lung-Kiang  was 
chosen  as  the  first  field  for  its  operations  ; two  men  from 
the  Theological  Hall  were  ordained  as  missionaries,  and, 
supported  by  their  compatriots,  were  sent  forth  to  break 
new  ground.  A small  Christian  Church  is  now  growing 
there,  which  has  never  had  anything  to  do  with  foreign 
missionaries  or  foreign  money.  In  the  older  districts  one 
pastor  after  another  was  ordained  over  self-supporting 
congregations,  and  the  spirit  of  self-assertion  and  inde- 
pendence was  most  encouraging. 


SPIRITUAL  UPLIFT 


209 


At  the  same  time  there  was  a general  consciousness  that 
for  the  Christians  themselves  something  was  needed,  and 
this  took  form  in  special  meetings  for  the  building  up  of 
believers,  which  were  held  in  most  churches  for  a week 
early  in  each  Chinese  year,  when  business  was  slack. 
These  were  well  attended.  Into  these  regularly  organized 
quiet  meetings  in  Liaoyang  and  Moukden  in  1908  came 
a new  element,  which  caused  that  mighty  stirring  known 
as  the  Manchurian  Revival.  The  detailed  story  of  that 
wonderful  movement  has  already  been  written,1  and 
would  be  out  of  place  here.  Humanly  speaking,  it  was 
a sequel  to  the  Korean  Revival.  Stories  of  the  evangelistic 
fervour  of  the  roused  disciples  in  that  downtrodden  land 
had  been  sounding  strangely  in  our  ears  for  months  past, 
and  a Canadian  missionary,  the  Rev.  Jonathan  Goforth, 
after  visiting  Korea,  had  been  asked  to  tell  of  what  he 
had  seen  to  the  special  meetings  in  both  Moukden  and 
Liaoyang.  All  were  interested  in  the  subject,  and  it  was 
hoped  that  the  churches  might  be  roused  to  greater  zeal ; 
but  any  general  movement  such  as  took  place  was  far 
from  the  thoughts  of  any.  One  evident  reason  for  the 
story  coming  home  with  special  force  to  the  Manchurian 
Christians  was  that  the  Korean  had  always  been  looked 
down  upon  with  marked  contempt,  as  of  an  inferior  race. 

“ The  Koreans  have  gone  forward  like  this,  why  is  it 
that  we  are  left  behind  ? ” was  the  question  which  struck 
home  to  many  a conscience. 

Such,  then,  were  the  various  streams  of  influence 
converging  on  the  minds  of  the  Christians  at  the  time 
of  these  meetings,  but  they  are  far  from  sufficient  to 
explain  the  wave  of  intense  spiritual  impulse  which 
moved  the  Manchurian  Church  to  its  very  foundations 
from  south  to  north  and  from  east  to  west.  The  only 
adequate  explanation  is  that  “ Here  is  the  finger  of 
God,  a flash  of  the  will  that  can.”  The  Church  was  in 
serious  danger  of  becoming  a somewhat  worldly  institu- 

1 “ Times  of  Blessing  in  Manchuria,”  by  the  Rev.  James  Webster. 


210 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


tion,  seeking  for  mere  increase  of  numbers,  prosperity, 
education.  Here  she  was  arrested  as  by  a lightning  flash, 
which  revealed  her  complacent  corruption,  and  by  con- 
trast the  high  calling  to  which  she  was  called. 

The  Chinese  sense  of  sinfulness  has  always  been  dull. 
There  is  no  real  translation  for  sin.  The  same  word  is 
used  in  such  phrases  as  “a  criminal ,”  “ I am  to  blame” 
“ He  has  offended  me.”  As  words  both  reflect  and 
suggest  thoughts,  the  ideas  of  the  ordinary  Christian 
regarding  sin  were  as  loose  as  his  phraseology,  and  he 
was  slow  to  grow  into  the  realization  of  the  vital  im- 
portance of  an  upright  personal  character.  Yet  the  most 
prominent  feature  in  all  this  movement  was  the  confession 
of  personal  individual  sins. 

It  is  easy  for  a large  meeting  to  be  moved  by  an  eloquent 
address  and  carried  away  by  sympathetic  emotion,  till 
many  weep  for  their  “ sins.”  This  was  not  what  hap- 
pened. It  is  a different  thing  when  a man  of  established 
respectability  stands  up  before  a company  of  his  own 
friends  and  acquaintances,  owns  that  he  has  swindled, 
and  proceeds  to  pay  back  the  money  ; when  a prominent 
church  leader  convicts  himself  of  secret  immorality ; 
when  a man  who  has  borne  the  reputation  of  having 
stood  firm  at  the  Boxer  trial,  comes  forward  voluntarily 
to  confess  with  distress  that  he  had  really  saved  his  life 
by  worshipping  idols  ; when  another  who  had  been 
tortured  in  vain  in  the  yamen  to  make  him  acknowledge 
his  guiltiness  of  a certain  crime,  now  pours  out  the 
confession  with  cries  and  tears.  Perhaps  even  more 
convincing  were  the  quiet  sorrowful  confessions  in  prayer 
of  minor  sins  which  had  heretofore  been  regarded  as 
unimportant ; such  as  lying,  petty  dishonesty,  anger, 
refusal  to  forgive  an  injury.  The  outburst  of  thank- 
offerings  all  over  the  country,  filling  the  church  treasury 
to  overflowing,  was  also  very  striking,  though  more 
transient. 

In  all  this  there  was  inevitably  a certain  amount  of 


SPIRITUAL  UPLIFT 


211 


unconscious  imitation  and  hysterical  excitement,  for  a 
nervously  susceptible  people  like  the  Chinese  are  pecu- 
liarly open  to  such  influences.  Besides,  the  great  majority 
of  them  had  but  recently  emerged  from  heathenism  with 
its  ignorance  and  superstitions.  In  looking  back  over 
the  five  years  that  have  elapsed  since  then,  we  see,  as  we 
might  expect,  that  where  the  excitement,  the  extreme 
experiences,  the  physical  “ manifestations  ” (such  as 
cataleptic  fits)  were  most  common,  there  the  spiritual 
and  practical  results  were  least  permanent.  It  is  also 
noticeable  that  it  has  usually  been  the  Christians  of  some 
years’  standing  who  have  profited  most  deeply  by  this 
new  experience. 

With  every  possible  discount  for  all  extraneous  im- 
pulses, the  number  of  Christians  must  still  have  been 
very  large,  who  from  the  depths  of  their  hearts  confessed 
and  turned  from  sins  hitherto  concealed  or  thought 
lightly  of,  and  whose  eyes  were  opened  to  new  possibilities 
of  communion  with  God.  Were  there  no  other  result, 
those  months  burned  into  the  consciousness  of  the 
Church  the  exceeding  sinfulness  of  sin,  and  raised  the 
standard  of  upright  Christian  living  once  for  all  to  a higher 
level. 

Among  the  thousands  who  thus  caught  a glimpse  of  an 
unforgettable  ideal,  and  realized  their  own  distance  from 
it,  were  some — scores  or  hundreds,  we  know  not — to 
whom  the  heavenly  vision  meant  a complete  revolution 
in  their  Christian  life.  We  judge  not  by  their  words  but 
by  their  continued  life  and  actions.  The  vision  passes, 
the  life  goes  on. 

There  was  in  Moukden  one  of  my  trained  assistants, 
the  son  of  Pastor  Liu,  who  since  the  Boxer  year  has  been 
in  practice  for  himself.  He  was  a good  Christian,  a good 
son,  a good  husband,  a good  father.  To  him  the  new 
light  came  with  illuminating  force,  transforming  his  whole 
existence.  While  others  saw  in  him  little  need  for 
repentance,  he  realized  his  shortcomings  before  a higher 


212 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


tribunal.  The  first  result  was  a public  confession,  the 
next  the  dedication  to  God’s  service  of  one -tenth  of  the 
capital  he  had  amassed.  He  had  in  all  $7000  (about 
£600)  invested  in  his  medicine  shop,  and  $700  was  paid 
down  as  subscriptions  to  hospitals,  schools,  Bible  Society, 
Missionary  Society,  and  congregational  funds.  He  then 
set  himself  to  consider  how  best  he  could  serve  God,  and 
decided  to  remain  in  self-supporting  practice,  while 
giving  part  of  his  time  to  voluntary  medical  missionary 
work.  Since  then  he  has  made  a number  of  medico - 
evangelistic  tours,  healing  and  preaching  in  the  villages. 
Often  has  he  been  asked  : “ How  much  do  the  foreigners 
pay  you  for  this  ? ” and  the  discovery  that  he  was 
travelling  and  working  at  his  own  expense  and  at  his 
own  initiative  made  a marked  impression.  In  Moukden 
his  presence  and  influence  are  of  permanent  value. 

In  Moukden  the  lasting  results  of  that  time  have  been 
specially  prominent  among  the  women.  The  uplift  of 
Christian  womanhood  among  us  has  been  a gradual  thing, 
but  in  looking  back  we  realize  how  far  we  have  come  and 
what  an  upward  impulse  was  given  by  that  “ Revival 
time.”  The  ordinary  Chinese  woman  of  the  early  days 
was  illiterate,  ignorant,  often  stupid,  bound  by  custom, 
without  inclination  to  learn  anything.  In  the  country 
it  required  almost  bribery  to  get  a young  woman  to 
attempt  to  learn  to  read.  Even  in  the  cities,  for  years 
it  was  taken  for  granted  that  none  but  former  schoolgirls 
could  use  the  hymn-book  and  Testament.  All  this  is 
changed.  In  Moukden  to-day  the  women  are  as  promi- 
nent in  the  church  as  the  men,  though  still  fewer  in 
number.  Most  of  them  have  their  books  at  service  and 
use  them,  for  a certain  knowledge  of  reading  is  made  a 
condition  of  baptism,  except  for  the  aged.  They  elect 
their  own  deaconesses,  who  take  round  the  collection- 
plates  to  them  on  Sunday,  receive  and  keep  accounts  of 
women’s  subscriptions,  arrange  women’s  meetings,  and 
manage  all  their  affairs. 


SPIRITUAL  UPLIFT 


213 


The  energy  and  zeal  of  these  women  was  manifested 
recently  when  it  was  proposed  to  make  a new  departure 
and  open  a tent  for  Christian  preaching  in  the  women’s 
part  of  an  annual  temple  fair.  Under  the  direction  of  a 
lady  missionary  a band  of  women  was  organized,  and 
preaching  was  continued  by  about  a dozen  of  them  in 
turn  from  six  in  the  morning  until  dusk  for  six  consecutive 
days.  This  was  repeated  at  two  subsequent  fairs.  The 
temple  authorities  were  most  cordial,  in  one  case  giving 
the  use  of  a building  free,  and  in  the  others  charging  no 
ground-rent  for  the  booth.  They  regarded  the  women’s 
preaching  as  a “ meritorious  action  ” on  their  part,  and 
possibly  as  a fresh  attraction  to  the  fair.  Crowds  of 
women  listened,  and  the  words  of  these  simple  Christians, 
most  of  whom  had  spent  their  youth  in  heathenism  and 
illiteracy,  were  evidently  acceptable. 

The  development  of  this  independent  Christian  activity 
and  sense  of  responsibility  among  women  has  been  very 
gradual,  and  the  general  standard  of  intelligence  has  still 
a long  way  to  rise.  Chinese  women,  in  Manchuria  at 
least,  have  never  been,  properly  speaking,  “ down- 
trodden.” They  have  to  bear  the  yoke  in  their  youth  in 
serving  their  mothers-in-law,  they  are  legally  in  complete 
subjection  to  their  husbands  all  their  lives,  and  for  very 
many  this  is  a practical  as  well  as  a legal  actuality.  But 
wherever  a strong  woman  of  character  is  found,  and  they 
are  not  few,  she  will  as  years  go  on  inevitably  assert  her 
individuality  and  find  her  kingdom,  be  she  never  so 
ignorant  and  uneducated.  In  hundreds  of  homes  the 
manager  and  leading  spirit  is  a middle-aged  or  elderly 
woman,  to  whom  all  the  men  of  the  household  defer  as 
having  the  best  judgment  among  them.  When  such 
clever,  capable  minds  are  educated  in  girlhood  in  our 
schools,  or  trained  in  middle  life  in  a Bible  Woman’s 
Training  Home,  they  become  an  irresistible  force  in  the 
forward  march  of  Christianity. 

Girls’  schools  have  been  and  are  a most  important 


214 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


factor  in  the  development  of  a wholesome  Christian  home 
life,  as  from  them  issue  streams  of  girls  to  be  the  mothers 
and  heads  of  the  Christian  families  of  the  future.  Govern- 
ment schools  cannot  take  their  place.  In  the  Christian 
atmosphere,  especially  where  the  foreign  lady  throws  her 
personality  into  the  work,  character  is  built  up  ; whereas 
in  the  Government  schools  there  is  usually  a lack  of 
definite  principles,  a laxity  of  discipline,  an  absence  of 
high  ideals.  The  same  is  true  of  boys’  schools.  There 
is  a great  future  before  the  educated  and  trained  women 
of  China.  In  the  capable  young  women  dispensers  and 
school  teachers  we  have  glimpses  of  what  the  future  holds. 
They  and  the  Bible  women,  so  keen  to  learn  and  make 
up  for  the  blankness  of  their  youthful  years,  so  eagerly 
glad  over  any  new  insight  into  hidden  knowledge,  make 
us  certain  that  when  New  China  enters  fully  into  her 
inheritance,  her  women  will  be  in  the  forefront  of  the 
highest  and  truest  progress. 

The  general  education  of  the  Christian  youth  of  both 
sexes  has  continued  to  advance  during  recent  years.  A 
Girls’  Normal  School  has  been  begun  in  Moukden,  and 
seems  likely  to  furnish  teachers  not  only  to  Christian 
girls’  schools,  but  to  many  a Government  school  also. 
The  Christian  Arts  College  (for  men  only)  entered  on  a 
new  era  of  its  usefulness  when  it  was  established  in  a 
new  building  at  the  west  of  the  city  in  1910,  the  Viceroy 
Hsi  Liang  and  other  officials  cordially  assisting  at  the 
opening  ceremony.  One  of  the  most  encouraging  features 
of  this  institution  is  that  most  of  its  graduates  seem 
determined  to  devote  themselves  to  the  Christian  advance- 
ment of  their  country  rather  than  to  their  own  personal 
enrichment. 

The  character  of  the  Theological  Hall  seems  for  this 
reason  on  the  verge  of  change.  Hitherto  our  pastors, 
now  sixteen  in  number,  have  been  men  who  have  spent 
years  as  evangelists,  who  have  had  little  or  no  “ modern  ” 
education,  and  who  have  passed  through  the  theological 


SPIRITUAL  UPLIFT 


215 


training  when  no  longer  in  their  youth.  A new  type  of 
pastor  is  now  needed  and  will  soon  be  provided,  men 
who  have  been  through  our  schools  and  colleges,  and  who, 
after  a time  of  practical  work  among  the  people,  return 
for  a scholastic  training  of  a very  different  type  from  that 
which  the  former  theological  student  could  assimilate. 
Thus  we  have  good  hope  that  the  Chinese  Church  will 
have  men  well  equipped  to  lead,  the  thought  of  the  China 
that  is  to  be. 


XXIII 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  MEDICAL  MISSION  WORK 


“Go,  and  do  thou  likewise.” 

The  Parable  of  the  Good  Samaritan. 

IN  1907  there  was  held  in  Shanghai  the  “China  Cen- 
tenary Missionary  Conference,”  a hundred  years  after 
the  arrival  of  the  first  Protestant  missionary  in  China. 
I was  asked  to  be  Chairman  of  the  Committee  on  Medical 
Missions,  and  to  prepare  a paper  on  the  subject.  Part  of 
this  is  given  here,  as  it  expresses  my  strong  convictions 
as  to  the  place  Medical  Missions  should  occupy  in  the 
world- work  of  the  Christian  Church.  The  principles  here 
laid  down  were  unanimously  adopted  by  the  Conference 
in  the  Resolutions  passed. 

“ From  the  very  beginning  of  Medical  Missions,  this 
form  of  work  has  been  notably  blessed  of  God.  Its 
success  as  a pioneer  agency  has  been  very  marked,  and 
healing  the  sick  has  everywhere  been  found  the  best 
way  of  overcoming  suspicion,  dislike,  and  opposition, 
breaking  down  prejudice,  and  removing  misconcep- 
tions. Especially  in  Mohammedan  lands,  practically 
no  advance  has  been  made  except  in  conjunction  with 
medical  work.  And  among  all  peoples  and  in  all  parts 
of  the  world,  it  opens  the  way  for  the  preaching  of  the 
Gospel.  In  China  it  has  been  more  difficult  to  gain  an 
entrance  than  in  most  lands,  for  between  our  mis- 
sionary agencies  and  the  life  of  the  people  there  is  a 
great  wall  of  anti-foreign  prejudice.  It  is  now  about 
seventy  years  since  the  missionary  societies  began  to 
realize  that  to  win  the  hearts  of  such  a proud  and 
hostile  people,  something  more  than  preaching  and 

216 


PRINCIPLES  OF  MEDICAL  MISSION  WORK  217 


literary  work  would  be  needed  ; and  that  the  wall  on 
which  the  force  of  arms  and  the  influences  of  Western 
civilization  could  make  no  impression  would  best  be 
broken  down  by  those  acts  of  kindness  and  love  which 
lie  at  the  heart  of  the  Gospel.  Medical  Missions  were 
no  sooner  established  in  the  principal  ports  by  Drs. 
Parker,  Lockhart,  Hobson,  and  others,  than  crowds 
flocked  to  be  healed.  And  ever  since  they  have  been 
recognized  as  the  best  way  to  begin  work  in  a new  or 
hostile  district. 

“ The  unique  advantages  of  this  method  of  pioneering 
are  so  obvious  and  have  been  so  notably  exemplified, 
that  this  side  of  the  work  has  perhaps  gained  undue 
prominence.  It  has  been  concluded  by  many  that  this 
is  the  raison  d'etre  of  Medical  Missions, — to  open  new 
ground,  and  provide  audiences  for  the  Gospel.  The 
logical  conclusion  of  this  view  is,  that  they  should 
only  exist  when  there  is  a measure  of  difficulty  in 
gaining  a hearing  for  the  Gospel  in  other  ways,  when 
there  is  active  hostility,  proud  aloofness,  or  dead  in- 
difference. Once  these  are  overcome,  and  there  is  a 
general  openness  of  welcome,  and  large  numbers  are 
ready  to  listen  to  the  preaching  of  the  Word,  the 
medical  missionary  might  reasonably  withdraw,  and 
press  forward  once  more  to  virgin  soil.  If  he  still 
remains,  it  is  often  assumed  that  the  most  important 
part  of  his  work  is  now  over. 

“As  an  evangelistic  agency  Medical  Missions  have 
been  so  fruitful,  that  this  alone  would  be  sufficient 
reason  for  their  establishment,  and  for  their  continu- 
ance. Nowhere  can  such  miscellaneous  crowds  be 
regularly  preached  to  as  in  the  dispensary  waiting- 
rooms,  and  many  are  reached  who  could  never  hear 
the  Gospel  in  any  other  way.  Those  who  are  admitted 
to  the  hospital  have  unique  opportunities  of  hearing 
and  receiving  systematic  instruction  in  Christian  truth, 
and  that  at  a time  when  many  are  moved  by  the  un- 
certainty of  fife,  when  their  hearts  are  softened  by  the 
unwonted  kindness  shown  them,  and  when  they  have 
leisure  and  rest  from  their  accustomed  labours. 


218 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ The  hospital  and  dispensary  are  valued  also  as 
giving  an  object  lesson  in  Christian  love  and  mercy. 
They  are  a practical  exemplification  of  the  parable  of 
the  Good  Samaritan.  They  convince  the  heathen  that 
Christians  do  good  deeds  and  have  kind  hearts  ; and 
they  are  a constant  reminder  to  the  native  Christians 
of  our  obligation  to  love  our  neighbour.  There  is 
special  need  for  this  in  China,  where  the  whole  system 
of  law  and  literature  encourages  each  man  to  consider 
himself,  and  to  look  with  indifference  on  the  sufferings 
of  others.  The  Chinese  are  a very  practical  people, 
and  they  are  quick  to  perceive  and  appreciate  the 
practical  side  of  Christianity.  ‘ It  must  be  a good 
doctrine,’  they  often  say,  ‘ that  produces  such  good 
deeds.’ 

“ It  concerns  the  Church  vitally,  to  find  out  if  this 
view  of  medical  work  as  a threefold  aid  to  missions 
is  an  adequate  one,  or  if  we  are  warranted,  from  the 
revelations  of  God  in  Scripture  and  history,  in  placing 
it  on  a higher  plane.  Our  entire  policy  and  methods 
will  be  influenced  by  the  view  we  take  of  its  essential 
standing  in  the  whole  scheme  of  Christianizing  the 
world. 

“ Let  us  look  at  the  fife  of  our  Master.  It  is  evident 
that,  during  the  three  and  a half  years  of  His  public 
ministry,  He  spent  at  least  as  much  time  in  healing 
the  crowds  as  in  preaching  to  them.  He  seems  to  have 
turned  none  away,  and  expended  time  and  strength 
freely  in  dealing  individually  with  each  case  of  bodily 
need.  This  was  not  done  to  combat  hostility  ; indeed 
many  of  His  miracles  were  the  cause  of  hostility.  It 
was  not  done  to  attract  audiences  ; Christ’s  preaching 
seems  to  have  been  always  enough  to  draw  a crowd, 
and  several  were  forbidden  to  make  their  healing  known 
in  order  to  avoid  the  pressure  of  numbers.  It  was  not 
done  to  prove  Messiahship  ; indeed  Christ  definitely 
refused  to  work  any  miracle  to  this  end.  Neither  is 
there  any  sign  that  His  object  ever  was  to  produce 
faith  either  in  the  one  healed  or  in  the  onlookers, 
though  this  was  the  natural  result  of  His  works.  Nor 


PRINCIPLES  OF  MEDICAL  MISSION  WORK  219 


were  the  acts  of  healing  done  from  didactic  reasons. 
Each  miracle  contains  the  germ  of  a parable,  and  may 
well  be  used  as  such,  but  that  is  not  why  they  were 
worked.  And  certainly  they  were  not  done  casually, 
by  the  way,  as  a side  thing,  which  might  be  done  or 
not  without  materially  affecting  Christ’s  life.  It  would 
be  a very  different  Gospel,  were  the  works  of  healing 
left  out.  What  then  were  these  works  of  healing  ? 
And  why  did  Christ  spend  so  much  of  His  short  earthly 
life  in  the  relief  of  mere  physical  distress,  which,  in  the 
nature  of  things,  must  before  long  be  ended  by  death  ? 

“ Christ  came  as  the  Revelation  of  the  Father,  the 
Word  of  God  to  man  ; and  it  is  evident  that  a very 
vital  and  important  part  of  that  revelation  concerned 
men’s  bodies.  From  the  very  beginning,  God  in  His 
dealing  with  men  had  regard  for  their  temporal  well- 
being. In  the  earliest  times  His  promises  and  com- 
mands were  primarily  for  this  world, — those  to  Abra- 
ham for  instance, — and  the  very  existence  of  a soul 
and  a life  to  come  is  implied  only,  but  never  stated. 
The  Mosaic  law,  in  many  particulars,  was  dictated  by 
considerations  of  public  health  and  sanitation,  and  it 
concerned  itself  minutely  with  personal  details  of  the 
bodily  welfare  of  the  private  individual . Along  with  the 
most  highly  spiritual  passages  in  the  prophetic  writings, 
are  promises  of  temporal  blessings,  and  warnings  of 
earthly  disasters,  and  the  redemption  of  the  body  is 
part  of  the  hope  of  the  Messianic  kingdom.  For  when 
sin  entered  into  the  world,  the  whole  man  suffered, 
physically,  mentally,  morally,  spiritually,  and  the 
message  of  God  Incarnate  is  to  the  whole  man,  mercy 
for  the  body  as  well  as  for  the  soul.  So  when  Christ 
came,  He  was  not  wholly  concerned  with  spiritual 
matters,  men’s  souls  and  salvation,  leaving  their  bodies 
to  suffer,  and  die  as  soon  as  might  be.  He  spent  Him- 
self on  their  bodies.  He  was  careful,  not  so  much  to 
preach  to  men  of  what  God  is,  as  to  live  the  Divine 
Life  before  them,  showing  them  by  deeds  what  God’s 
heart  is.  Whenever  Christ  met  with  sin  and  suffering, 
He  put  forth  against  them  all  His  power,  and  by  so 


220 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


doing  He  revealed  God.  In  His  answer  to  John  He 
appeals  to  His  deeds  of  mercy,  side  by  side  with  or  even 
before  His  preaching,  as  a manifestation  of  His  spiritual 
identity.  It  seems  as  if  He  could  not  restrain  the  love 
and  compassion  of  God  within  Him,  which  welled  up 
and  flowed  forth  spontaneously  in  acts  of  healing  of 
the  body. 

“ Now  the  principal  function  of  the  Christian  Church 
on  earth  is  admittedly  to  act  as  the  channel  of  the 
revelation  of  God  to  man.  And  the  revelation  which 
we  make  known  must  be  entire.  We  must  bring  to 
men  all  that  Christ  brought,  we  must  show  to  them  the 
same  God  that  He  showed.  If  He,  who  spake  as  never 
man  spake,  found  deeds  necessary  as  wrell  as  words, 
in  order  to  manifest  His  Father,  we  cannot  expect 
adequately  to  make  God  known  to  the  heathen  by 
preaching  alone,  even  where  crowds  are  willing  to 
listen.  If  He,  who  is  the  express  image  of  the  person 
of  that  God  who  is  a Spirit,  yet  addressed  Himself  to 
save  men’s  bodies  as  well  as  their  souls,  we  also  must 
inevitably  concern  ourselves  with  the  whole  man,  and 
relieve  bodily  suffering  while  leading  souls  into  light. 
Only  so  can  we  be  as  He  was  in  this  world,  only  so  can 
we  offer  to  men  the  whole  Gospel. 

“ In  this  light,  Medical  Mission  work  is  seen  to  be  no 
mere  adjunct  to  the  work  of  preaching,  but  an  essential 
and  integral  part  of  the  Mission  of  the  Church.  Can 
we  imagine  Christ  ignoring  the  suffering  around  Him, 
while  directing  Himself  to  put  away  the  sin  ? As 
unnatural  and  one-sided  are  Christian  missions  without 
healing.  Miraculous  gifts  are  indeed  no  longer  ours, 
but  in  their  place  we  have  all  the  resources  of  modern 
science,  which  are  equally  the  gift  of  God.  As  the 
years  advance,  the  discoveries  and  inventions  of 
medicine  and  surgery  reveal  more  and  more  of  the 
wonderful  provision  for  healing,  which  God  has  made. 
All  these  are  ours  to  use  in  His  name  and  for  His  glory, 
and  they  manifest  His  power  and  mercy  scarcely  less 
than  did  the  miraculous  healing  of  old. 

“ The  Church  of  modern  days  has  been  marvellously 


PRINCIPLES  OF  MEDICAL  MISSION  WORK  221 


slow  to  recognize  the  fullness  of  her  high  calling. 
Among  the  primitive  Christians,  bodily  and  spiritual 
healing  were  intimately  associated,  and  everyone  was 
expected  to  do  his  best  to  alleviate  the  sufferings  of 
those  around  him.  No  line  seems  to  have  been  drawn 
between  miraculous  powers  and  the  natural  ministra- 
tions of  loving  gentle  hands  and  prayerful  hearts. 
In  medieval  times  the  principle  that  the  Church  should 
care  for  both  body  and  soul,  seems  to  have  been  dimly 
grasped  and  instinctively  acted  upon,  without  any 
theorizing  on  the  subject.  When  the  missionaries  of 
the  undivided  Church  went  forth  to  heathen  lands, 
they  healed  the  sick  and  preached  the  Gospel. 

“ But  with  the  Renaissance  and  the  Reformation, 
medical  science  in  large  measure  parted  company  with 
the  Church.  When  the  great  Protestant  missionary 
movement  began,  it  was  directed  wholly  in  the  line  of 
preaching,  teaching,  and  translating  the  Bible.  It  was 
assumed  that  the  whole  message  of  God  to  man  could 
be  conveyed  in  that  way  ; and  even  to  those  earnest 
and  rare  souls  among  the  missionaries  of  that  time, 
who  stand  out  as  examples  to  all  ages  of  devotion  and 
sacrifice,  it  does  not  seem  to  have  occurred,  that  a 
more  complete  Gospel  would  have  more  power  in 
winning  the  souls  they  were  hungering  for.  In  very 
many  cases,  individual  missionaries  have  done  their 
best  for  the  suffering  ones  around  them,  feeling  that 
they  could  not  do  less,  and  still  represent  their  Master. 
Dr.  Morrison,  first  Protestant  missionary  to  China, 
though  not  a medical  man,  opened  and  for  some  years 
superintended  a dispensary,  with  the  help  of  a friendly 
surgeon,  and  there  have  been  many  instances  of  Chris- 
tian doctors  freely  giving  their  services  to  help  on 
missionary  work.  Still,  it  is  not  until  comparatively 
recently  that  the  Church  has  realized  her  great  power 
lying  unused,  and  has  called  upon  her  sons  and 
daughters  to  go  forth  to  heal  as  well  as  to  preach. 

“ In  Christian  work  as  in  other  fields  of  labour,  we 
are  not  likely  to  reach  beyond  our  aim.  The  aim  of 
the  Church  hitherto,  in  sending  healing  to  the  heathen, 


222 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


has  been  too  much  limited  to  the  three  points, — 
Pioneering,  Evangelistic  work,  and  Philanthropy.  The 
success  of  any  particular  work,  apart  from  its  pioneer 
aspect,  has  been  too  largely  estimated  according  to 
the  number  whom  it  attracted  into  the  Church.  But 
let  us  now  aim  higher.  Let  us  consider  the  place  which 
deeds  had  in  our  Master’s  life-work,  and  the  place  they 
should  therefore  have  in  the  life-work  of  the  Church. 
Let  us  realize  that  by  healing  a man  we  are  letting  in 
a ray  of  Divine  Light  on  the  darkness  of  his  surround- 
ings, even  if  he  taJkes  absolutely  no  interest  in  the 
Divine  message.  Let  us  seek  to  let  the  heathen  and 
hostile  world  read  more  plainly  in  our  Christianity, 
the  same  Gospel  as  it  finds  in  the  Gospels.  Let  the 
whole  work  of  Medical  Missions  be  lifted  to  this  higher 
plane,  as  a necessary  and  fundamental  part  of  missions, 
not  a mere  aid  to  them.  Let  this  be  our  practical  aim, 
and  so  shall  we  hasten  the  time  we  are  all  longing  for, 
when  the  whole  world  shall  stretch  out  its  hands  to 
God.” 

Medical  Missions  being  thus  regarded  as  an  integral  and 
permanent  part  of  the  mission  of  the  Christian  Church, 
it  is  evident  that  that  Church  must  do  her  best  to  ensure 
not  only  the  establishment  but  also  the  continuity  of  such 
work.  Our  own  presence  here  is  not  for  always  ; the 
propagation  of  Christianity  by  means  of  foreigners  can  be 
but  a temporary  expedient ; China  must  be  Christianized 
and  educated  ultimately  by  her  own  sons  ; so  that  the 
way  to  perpetuate  our  work  is  evidently  to  train  those 
who  in  their  turn  will  carry  on  what  we  are  beginning. 
It  is  not  enough  to  give  a smattering  of  practical  know- 
ledge to  a succession  of  dispensers  and  assistants.  We 
need  well-educated  Chinese  Christians  who  can  adequately 
and  worthily  stand  forward  as  fully  equipped  medical 
men. 

This  has  been  increasingly  realized  during  the  past  six 
years,  and  one  medical  college  after  another  has  sprung 
up  in  various  parts  of  China.  There  have  always  been 


PRINCIPLES  OF  MEDICAL  MISSION  WORK  223 


some  who  have  opposed  the  movement,  believing  that 
this  is  not  the  legitimate  work  of  Christian  Missions,  but 
should  be  left  to  the  Government  or  people.  This,  how- 
ever, would  inevitably  result  in  the  development  in 
China  of  a medical  profession  apart  from  Christianity, 
and  in  the  ultimate  cessation  of  Medical  Missions.  We 
are  responsible  for  making  provision  that  this  shall  not 
be.  We  must  see  to  it  that  Chinese  Christianity  shall 
be  in  a position  to  continue  to  proclaim  her  message  to 
the  whole  man,  body  and  soul.  The  conviction  is  growing 
that  in  Christian  medical  education  lies  the  important 
part  of  our  Medical  Mission  work  for  the  next  few  decades, 
and  it  is  agreed  that  such  education  must  be  of  the 
highest  standard. 

The  responsibility  of  the  Government  of  the  country 
for  providing  for  medical  education  is  also  acknowledged, 
and  the  Chinese  Government  and  the  Board  of  Education 
are  awake  to  the  necessity,  especially  in  connection  with 
the  public  services.  Government  medical  colleges 
already  exist,  and  there  is  a strong  movement  to  establish 
training  on  a much  higher  standard. 

The  question  naturally  arises  : How  can  these  two 
responsibilities  be  brought  into  harmony  ? Some  colleges 
have  already  been  established  on  a purely  foreign  and 
missionary  basis,  but  the  desirability  of  co-operation 
with  the  Chinese  is  more  and  more  strongly  felt,  and  the 
necessity  for  Government  recognition  of  medical  diplomas 
is  realized.  We  are  laying  the  foundations  of  what  will 
one  day  be  purely  Chinese  work,  and  we  want  as  close 
union  with  them  as  possible.  If  the  Christian  ideal  of 
service  is  to  permeate  the  ranks  of  the  Chinese  medical 
profession,  there  must  from  the  outset  be  co-operation 
and  friendly  relationship  between  the  various  medical 
schools,  and  also  between  the  Government  and  those 
who  are  responsible  for  conducting  them. 

At  the  triennial  meeting  of  the  China  Medical  Missionary 
Association  held  in  Peking  in  January,  1913,  this  whole 


224 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


subject  of  medical  education  was  discussed,  and  a definite 
line  of  policy  was  adopted.  It  was  decided  that  the 
urgency  of  Christian  medical  education  is  such  that  it 
should  take  precedence  of  advance  in  any  other  branch 
of  Medical  Missionary  work.  The  following  resolution 
was  passed,  and  was  published  in  Chinese  : 

“ Resolved  : That  the  Medical  Missionary  Association 
of  China  met  in  Conference,  let  it  be  known  : 

“1.  That,  in  establishing  medical  colleges  and 
hospitals,  their  sole  object  is  to  bring  the  blessings  of 
healing  to  the  bodies  and  minds  of  the  people  of  China, 
and  to  give  a thorough  training  in  medicine  and 
surgery  to  young  men  of  education  and  intelligence, 
enabling  them,  as  fully  qualified  doctors,  to  be  of  the 
highest  service  to  their  country. 

“2.  That  they  have  no  desire  to  create  permanently 
foreign  institutions,  and  that  their  aim  and  hope  is 
that  these  medical  colleges  will,  gradually  and  ulti- 
mately, be  staffed,  financed,  and  controlled  by  the 
Chinese  themselves. 

“3.  That  the  Association  is  desirous  of  bringing  its 
teaching  work  into  line  with  the  regulations  of  the 
Ministry  of  Education,  and  in  all  ways  to  co-operate 
with  and  assist  the  Government  of  the  Republic  in 
Medical  Education,  so  that  a strong  and  thoroughly 
equipped  medical  profession  may  be  established  in 
this  great  land.” 


XXIV 


THE  BEGINNINGS  OF  MEDICAL  EDUCATION  IN  MANCHURIA 

H.E.  Hsu  Shih  Chang,  Viceroy,  1907-1909 

“ Let  a man  contend  to  the  uttermost 
For  his  life’s  set  prize,  be  it  what  it  will  ! ” 

Statue  and  Bust. 

“ Who  keeps  one  end  in  view,  makes  all  things  serve.” 

“ In  a Balcony  ” — R.  Browning. 

IT  is  unfortunate  that  in  dealing  with  Manchuria  the 
Central  Government  did  not  see  its  way  to  a con- 
tinuity of  policy.  From  the  Russo-Japanese  war  until 
now,  eight  years,  there  have  been  five  Governor-Generals 
or  Viceroys,  no  one  remaining  longer  than  a bare  two 
years.  It  has  been  a remarkable  succession  of  notable 
men,  but  it  has  not  been  the  custom  to  arrange  that  the 
new  official  should  consult  with  the  old  except  in  a formal 
way.  Each  one  has  had  his  own  policy  and  his  own  plans, 
and  two  years  were  not  sufficient  to  develop  them. 

In  1907  it  was  decided  to  bring  Manchuria  into  line 
with  the  rest  of  China  and  make  it  a Viceroyalty,  and 
Chao  Er  Sun  was  succeeded  by  another  fine  man  of  a 
totally  different  stamp,  the  first  Viceroy,  His  Excellency 
Hsii  Shih  Chang.  The  political  importance  of  Moukden 
was  now  well  recognized.  It  had  been  thrown  open  to  the 
trade  of  the  nations,  and  Consuls  from  various  countries 
were  now  in  residence,  besides  a Commissioner  of  Customs, 
Postal  officials,  and  some  merchants.  The  new  Viceroy, 
one  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai's  right-hand  men,  set  himself  to 
maintain  before  the  world  the  dignity  and  importance 

225 


Q 


226 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


of  the  Chinese  Government.  In  this  and  in  all  his  forward 
policy,  he  was  ably  seconded  by  H.E.  Tang  Shao  Yi,  who 
was  appointed  Civil  Governor  of  Moukden.  Mr.  Tang 
and  Mr.  M.  T.  Liang , who  was  associated  with  him  later, 
were  American  graduates  speaking  English  perfectly, 
and  were  eager  to  bring  China  into  line  with  the  most 
advanced  Western  nations.  Tang  Shao  Yi  came  to 
Moukden  with  the  reputation  of  being  “ anti-foreign,” 
but  I saw  no  ground  for  this.  Pro-Chinese  he  was,  keen 
to  uphold  the  rights  and  liberties  of  his  nation,  and  to 
resent  any  infringement  of  them,  but  in  all  our  intercourse 
I found  him  a fair-minded  man,  ready  to  meet  more  than 
half-way  any  foreigner  who  sought  the  good  of  China, 
and  sympathizing  with  everything  which  would  tend  to 
uplift  his  country. 

During  the  couple  of  years  of  this  regime  a good  many 
changes  were  made  in  Moukden,  the  most  striking  being 
the  handsome  modern  building  now  so  conspicuous. 
The  old-fashioned,  one-story,  inconvenient  Governor- 
General’s  yamen,  and  various  lesser  yamens  throughout 
the  city,  passed  away.  In  their  place  rose  fine,  large, 
roomy,  two -story  Government  offices,  where  the  various 
departments  work  in  convenient  proximity,  with  the 
Viceroy’s  residence  in  their  midst.  In  keeping  with 
these,  a stately  pomp  was  maintained.  Official  banquets 
were  given  in  the  most  approved  foreign  style,  at  which  a 
Chinese  military  band  played,  with  much  spirit,  foreign 
music  on  foreign  instruments.  When  the  Viceroy  made 
an  official  visit  to  the  hospital,  a regiment  of  cavalry 
lined  the  roads  as  he  approached,  and  a numerous 
mounted  escort  rode  in  front  and  behind.  The  horses 
and  carriages  of  Viceroy  and  Governor  were  well  known 
as  the  finest  in  the  city. 

Education  was  further  developed  in  these  and  the  next 
few  years.  Elementary  schools  were  established  in  every 
large  town  and  many  small  ones,  and  at  least  one  Middle 
School  in  each  city.  Moukden  was  provided  also  with  a 


H.E.  HSU  SHIH  CHANG,  VICEROY 
“ He  maintained  the  dignity  of  the  Chinese  Government.” 


MEDICAL  EDUCATION  IN  MANCHURIA  227 


large  Normal  School,  a Science  College,  a Law  College, 
a Military  College,  an  Agricultural  School,  an  In- 
dustrial School,  a School  of  Foreign  Languages,  besides 
the  Women’s  Normal  School,  two  Girls’  Schools  and 
Kindergartens.  For  most  of  these,  as  well  as  the  Govern- 
ment Bank,  Library,  etc.,  large  imposing  buildings  were 
erected. 

A telephone  system  and  exchange  were  inaugurated, 
and  with  this  our  hospital  was  connected  free  of  charge. 
This  has  been  continued  ever  since,  and  proved  specially 
invaluable  at  the  time  of  plague,  Red  Cross  work,  etc. 
Electric  works  were  established  to  supply  light  to  all 
Government  offices  and  buildings.  Later  on  the  benefits 
were  extended  to  the  public,  the  main  streets  were 
lighted,  and  now  very  many  shops  and  houses  have 
electric  light.  The  hospital  and  medical  college  are 
supplied  at  half  price  by  Government  order. 

Local  enterprise  was  also  active.  A tramway  company 
was  formed,  and  a line  of  horse-tramcars  run  from  the 
inner  west  gate  of  the  city  to  the  railway  station  three 
miles  away.  By  this  time  the  Government  railway  from 
Peking  had  been  extended  from  Hsin-min-tun  to  Mouk- 
den.  The  Japanese  railway  ran  south  and  north,  with  a 
short  branch  east  to  the  coal-mines  thirty  miles  awTay  ; 
and  a new  Japanese  line  was  projected  south-east  to  the 
Korean  border. 

His  Excellency  Hsii  Shih  Chang  had  not  been  long  in 
Moukden  before  I became  well  acquainted  with  him  and 
with  Mr.  Tang  ; and  their  appreciation  of  the  importance 
of  our  work  was  shown  by  the  donation  of  Tls.3100 
(£440)  to  the  hospital,  from  the  Viceroy,  Governor,  and 
nine  other  officials.  I had  many  a talk  with  Mr.  Tang, 
especially  about  public  health  and  the  urgent  need  for 
medical  education. 

It  had  from  the  first  been  manifest  that  foreign  mission- 
aries, however  liberal  the  supply,  could  not  hope  even 
temporarily  to  meet  the  medical  requirements  of  the 


228 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


fifteen  or  more  millions  of  people  in  Manchuria,  once 
they  awakened  to  a consciousness  of  these  needs.  I had 
not  been  long  in  China  when  I began  to  have  dreams 
of  Christian  Chinese  medical  men  dotted  here  and  there 
all  over  the  land,  a Christian  medical  profession.  It 
seemed  Utopian,  and  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to 
begin  by  devoting  oneself  to  the  immediate  requirements 
of  the  hour,  and  to  limit  teaching  efforts  to  training  the 
assistants  and  dispensers  wanted  for  the  daily  work. 

As  time  went  on,  the  wider  need  became  increasingly 
apparent,  and  equally  clamant  with  that  of  assistants 
for  mission  hospitals.  The  appalling  amount  of  prevent- 
able suffering  and  death  came  home  more  and  more  to 
our  consciousness.  Confidence  in  Western  medicine  was 
steadily  increasing,  the  demand  for  Chinese  doctors  who 
could  practise  it  was  very  great,  and  it  was  distressing 
to  have  this  met  only  by  quack  remedies,  and  by  such 
dispensers  and  assistants  as  left  our  hospitals  with  a 
smattering  of  knowledge.  In  addition  there  was  the 
growing  Government  desire  for  medical  officers,  civil  and 
military. 

Before  the  Boxer  time  I had  been  able  to  bring  a 
limited  number  of  men  through  a fairly  complete  medical 
course,  and  had  given  them  diplomas.  Two  of  them 
continued  to  assist  me  in  the  hospital ; others  went  into 
private  practice,  where  they  are  still  doing  well  and 
exercising  a good  influence.  There  are  two  settled  in 
Moukden,  one  of  them  Dr.  Wei,  who  have  always  been 
ready  to  help  us  in  any  way  without  remuneration,  and 
have  often  assisted  with  the  out-patients  when  my 
assistant  was  ill  or  on  holiday.  These  men  were  well 
known,  and  requests  poured  in  from  Government,  the 
Army,  Christian  congregations,  the  Missionary  Society 
of  Manchuria  (native),  and  towns  throughout  the  pro- 
vince. “ Give  us  one  of  your  men  ! ” they  all  asked. 

I had  more  than  once  laid  before  our  Conference  of  the 
United  Missions  proposals  for  the  establishment  on  a 


MEDICAL  EDUCATION  IN  MANCHURIA  229 


small  scale  of  an  efficient  medical  school.  Neither  men 
nor  money  were  available,  and  the  scheme  had  to  be 
postponed ; so  I arranged  to  continue  to  train  assistants 
single-handed  as  before.  Then  came  the  destruction  of 
our  work  by  the  Boxers,  the  political  unrest,  the  war. 
When  peace  was  established,  the  Governor-General, 
Chao  Er  Sun,  invited  me  to  take  up  medical  education, 
and  promised  his  ardent  support ; but  I was  then  about  to 
rebuild  the  hospital,  and  much  to  my  regret  it  was  im- 
possible even  to  consider  it.  It  was  not  until  now,  at  the 
beginning  of  1908,  that  our  medical  work  was  once  more 
in  full  swing  with  adequate  equipment. 

Still  it  seemed  hopeless  to  think  of  the  missions 
establishing  a medical  college.  A modest  scheme  had 
been  planned  to  meet  pressing  needs  by  gathering 
together  dispensers  and  assistants  annually  for  short 
courses  of  lectures.  The  Union  Medical  College  in  Peking 
had  been  opened  two  years  previously,  and  we  were 
urged  to  unite  with  it,  and  give  up  all  idea  of  a separate 
institution  for  Manchuria.  I was  convinced  that  though 
Peking  might  supply  us  with  some  qualified  assistants, 
it  could  never  meet  the  growing  needs  of  our  Three 
Provinces.  Yet  the  door  seemed  closed  to  us,  and 
reluctantly  I acknowledged  that  I must  give  up  the  hope 
cherished  so  long. 

Just  when  the  prospects  for  Christian  medical  educa- 
tion in  Manchuria  seemed  most  dark,  suddenly  the  way 
opened  clearly  before  us. 

It  was  May,  1908,  when  one  day  a distressful  piece  of 
news  was  brought  us.  Next  door  to  the  hospital  was  a 
compound  which  we  had  previously  tried  in  vain  to  buy. 
Its  owner  was  absent ; it  was  mortgaged  and  not  for  sale, 
though  we  had  rented  its  poor  dwellings  more  than  once — 
for  a hospital  long  ago,  and  for  a Refuge  during  the  war. 
Now  we  were  informed  that  it  was  sold.  That  was 
disappointing  enough,  and  a breach  of  Chinese  custom, 
which  ordains  that  the  next-door  neighbours  shall  have 


230  THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  first  option  of  purchasing  any  ground  ; but  there  was 
more.  The  new  owners  were  the  Guild  of  a southern 
province,  who  were  about  to  build  a large  two -story 
Guild-house,  with  a hall  for  theatricals,  banquets,  etc. 
This  would  closely  overlook  the  hospital ; and  the  noise 
and  clanging  of  native  musical  instruments,  which  after 
modern  fashion  would  continue  far  into  the  night,  would 
be  most  serious  for  our  patients. 

I was  in  despair.  I saw  member  after  member  of  the 
Guild,  but  they  could  do  nothing.  The  transaction  was 
completed,  the  money  paid,  the  plans  made,  the  contract 
signed.  Soon  workmen  came,  the  houses  were  pulled 
down,  bricks  and  wood  arrived,  and  the  foundations 
were  being  dug.  Meantime  word  of  our  sad  plight  reached 
the  Viceroy,  and  at  once  he  came  to  our  aid. 

“ If  the  hospital,”  he  said,  “ which  has  done  so  much 
for  Moukden  all  these  years,  wants  this  ground,  it  must 
have  it.  Let  the  building  be  stopped.” 

Negotiations  took  some  time,  but  ultimately  the 
materials  were  all  taken  over  by  Government,  the  pur- 
chase price  paid  by  them,  and  the  title-deeds  handed  over 
to  me,  the  money  for  it  being  made  up  by  Chinese  sub- 
scriptions. While  these  negotiations  were  still  incomplete, 
we  had  a visit  from  some  friends  travelling  in  the  East. 
We  were  then  talking  of  the  possibilities  of  the  future, 
and  what  an  ideal  site  this  would  be  for  teaching  purposes. 
Impressed  with  the  importance  of  the  developments 
here,  these  friends  offered  £100  a year  towards  whatever 
work  should  be  carried  on  on  this  new  ground. 

Shortly  afterwards  I had  a long  talk  with  Mr.  Tang 
Shao  Yi  about  the  crying  need  in  Manchuria  for  men 
trained  in  Western  medicine.  He  expressed  himself  as 
anxious  that  I should  undertake  medical  education, 
and  that  a college  should  be  established  with  Government 
help.  A few  weeks  later,  just  before  Mr.  Tang  left  for 
America,  he  called,  along  with  the  Viceroy  and  others. 
I showed  them  over  the  hospital  premises,  and  they 


WAHl)  IN  THE  MOUKDEX  HOSPITAL 


MEDICAL  EDUCATION  IN  MANCHURIA  231 


seemed  greatly  surprised  to  see  so  many  patients,  and 
all  so  clean  ! 

“ We  knew  you  were  doing  a good  work,”  said  Mr. 
Tang,  “ but  had  no  idea  it  was  like  this.”  Then  the 
Viceroy  told  me  that  if  I could  arrange  for  medical  teach- 
ing the  Government  would  undertake  to  give  Tls.3000 
(£420)  a year  for  ten  years.  Mr.  M.  T.  Liang  was 
appointed  to  make  all  arrangements  with  me,  and  we  felt 
that  a medical  school,  however  small,  was  now  secure. 

During  the  following  months  a scheme  was  drawn  up, 
and  laid  before  our  Mission  Council  and  the  Conference 
of  United  Missions,  as  well  as  discussed  with  Mr.  Liang. 
The  next  spring  (1909)  I went  home  on  furlough,  em- 
powered to  bring  the  matter  before  our  Church  and  the 
home  public,  and  to  raise  funds.  It  was  a rather  large 
undertaking.  We  had  only  an  empty  site,  local  subscrip- 
tions from  Chinese  and  foreigners  amounting  to  £112, 
and  promises  of  about  £520  a year.  We  wanted  build- 
ings, equipment,  and  at  least  two  new  men.  For  most 
of  my  time  in  Moukden  I had  been  single-handed  ; but 
as  the  number  of  foreigners  increased,  it  was  impossible 
to  attend  to  them  in  addition  to  other  work.  So  it  was 
arranged  that  their  fees,  along  with  money  received 
from  the  Chinese  Railway,  Post  Office,  and  Customs, 
should  go  to  the  salary  of  a second  Medical  Missionary, 
to  be  associated  with  me.  This  was  carried  out  before 
I left,  so  that  we  had  now  a staff  of  two,  as  a nucleus. 

It  was  decided  that  the  college  should  be  a union  one, 
the  three  missions  on  the  spot  sharing  in  its  management, 
and  provision  being  also  made  for  full  representation  of 
the  Chinese.  It  was  to  be  supported  entirely  outside 
ordinary  mission  funds  ; but  the  United  Free  Church  of 
Scotland,  to  which  I belong,  recognized  it  as  an  important 
part  of  their  mission  work,  and  gave  every  encouragement 
in  raising  money  for  it  and  in  appointing  its  staff. 

In  October,  1909,  a short  appeal  was  printed,  and  over 
4000  copies  were  sent  out,  chiefly  in  Scotland.  From 


232 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


this  I quote  : “ The  object  of  the  college  is  to  give  young 
men  a thorough  training  in  the  knowledge  and  practice 
of  medicine  and  surgery,  and  to  prepare  as  many  of 
them  as  possible  for  Medical  Missionary  work.  It  will 
be  essentially  a missionary  institution,  run  on  Christian 
principles,  permeated  by  Christian  influence.  ...  It  is 
proposed  to  draw  up  a plan  for  the  entire  building,  and  to 
erect  at  once  as  much  as  our  funds  allow.  . . We  shall 
not  go  into  debt.” 

Four  thousand  pounds  was  asked  for  buildings  for 
immediate  use,  besides  enough  to  make  up  the  salaries  of 
two  men.  The  response  to  this  appeal  showed  that  we 
had  made  out  our  case.  In  little  more  than  a year  we 
received  £4889,  and  had  secured  the  services  of  two 
specially  qualified  and  eminently  suitable  men.  Our  first 
large  contribution  gave  us  special  pleasure.  Our  old 
friend  Mrs.  Bishop  (Isabella  Bird)  had  left  some  money, 
for  a lady  friend  to  dispose  of  as  she  thought  best,  for 
Medical  Missions.  I had  long  ago  been  introduced  to 
this  lady  by  Mrs.  Bishop,  and  now  she  was  greatly 
interested  in  our  college  scheme,  “ Just  the  thing  Mrs. 
Bishop  would  have  supported,”  and  she  gave  me  £1000 
with  which  to  erect  a wing  of  the  college  as  a “ Bishop 
Memorial.”1 

Soon  after  I left  Moukden  the  Viceroy  Hsu  Shih  Chang 
was  withdrawn.  This  was  no  doubt  owing  to  the  death 
of  the  Empress-Dowager,  with  whom  he  was  a great 
favourite,  and  the  subsequent  downfall  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai . 
The  nominal  Emperor  had  not  survived  the  Empress,  in 
popular  belief  was  not  allowed  to  survive  her.  The 
Prince  Regent,  who  was  to  rule  during  the  minority  of 
the  little  Emperor,  had  his  own  personal  feelings  towards 
various  officials.  Yuan  Shih  Kai  was  only  retained  long 
enough  to  ensure  the  peaceful  acceptance  by  the  country 
of  the  new  ruler  ; then  he  was  politely  dismissed,  and 

1 The  subject  of  Medical  Education  is  continued  in  Chapter  XXVIII. 


MEDICAL  EDUCATION  IN  MANCHURIA  233 


with  him  went  most  of  those  men  in  whom  he  had  placed 
trust,  including  Hsu  Shih  Chang,  Tang  Shao  Yi,  and 
31.  T.  Liang. 

It  is  tempting  to  speculate  on  what  the  difference  in 
the  course  of  China’s  history  might  have  been,  had  the 
Prince  Regent  been  far-seeing  enough  to  make  a friend 
of  Yuan  Shih  Kai,  and  give  him  a free  hand  to  carry  out 
his  own  plans  for  the  development  of  China,  and  the 
gradual  enlightenment  and  enfranchisement  of  her  people. 
Would  the  Revolution  ever  have  taken  place  ? 


XXV 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 

H.E.  Hsi  Liang,  Viceroy,  1909-1911 

‘ Contented  for  my  part 
To  give  this  life  up  once  for  all, 

But  grant  I really  serve.’* — Sordello. 


No  . . . greet  the  unseen  with  a cheer  ! 

Bid  him  forward.  . . . ‘ Speed, — fight  on,  fare  ever 
There  as  here  ! ’ ” — “Epilogue,”  Robert  Browning. 


URING  the  winter  of  1910-11  Manchuria  was  swept 


by  an  epidemic  of  pneumonic  plague,  of  such  a 
virulent  and  deadly  type  that  it  recalled  the  traditions 
of  the  Middle  Ages,  the  Black  Death  which  decimated 
Europe,  the  Great  Plague  of  London.  Its  origin  is  still 
shrouded  in  uncertainty.  It  was  at  first  believed  that 
men  were  infected  by  the  tarbagan , a species  of  marmot, 
but  bacteriological  investigation  has  not  confirmed  this 
theory.  It  is  only  certain  that  the  disease  showed  itself 
in  the  autumn  among  marmot-hunters  and  others, 
crowding  in  the  villages  on  the  railway  line  on  the 
Siberian  side  of  the  border  ; but  as  it  had  been  known 
before  as  a local  visitation,  no  special  notice  was  taken. 
The  desert  mountains  of  the  Tsi-tsi-har  province  might 
have  proved  an  effective  barrier  in  former  days,  but  the 
Siberian  Railway  now  runs  through  them,  and  the  infec- 
tion was  thus  brought  to  Harbin  and  neighbouring  towns 
in  November.  Towards  the  end  of  the  year  we  heard 
terrible  accounts  of  the  awful  mortality  in  the  Chinese 

234 


Pity  me  ? •.  . . 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


235 


part  of  Harbin,  but  the  spread  of  the  disease  southward 
was  not  anticipated  by  the  general  public,  as  many  an 
epidemic  rages  in  the  crowded  hovels  of  Harbin,  and 
comes  no  farther. 

This  was  not  bubonic  plague,  and  its  spread  had  no 
connection  with  rats  and  fleas.  It  was  communicated 
directly  from  man  to  man,  and  was  pneumonic  in 
character.  Small  outbreaks  of  a similar  nature  had  been 
met  with  elsewhere  in  combination  with  bubonic  plague, 
but  they  had  not  spread.  This  was  the  first  time  for 
centuries  that  there  had  been  in  the  world  a serious 
outbreak  of  pneumonic  plague , independent  of  the  bubonic 
variety.  Its  specially  marked  feature  was  its  unvarying 
fatality  : 43,942  cases  are  recorded,  and  43,942  deaths. 
There  was  no  authenticated  case  of  recovery.  As  this 
inexorable  deadliness  became  known,  it  seized  on  the 
public  imagination,  and  the  general  terror  of  the  forward 
march  of  the  disease  was  quite  out  of  proportion  with 
the  actual  mortality.  This  was  well,  as  it  made  it  possible 
to  combat  that  advance  in  a systematic  and  scientific 
way. 

Our  Viceroy  at  this  time  was  H.E.  Hsi  Liang , an 
official  of  Mongol  race,  regarded  at  his  appointment  as 
one  of  the  more  or  less  reactionary  party  who  surrounded 
the  Prince  Regent  after  the  fall  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai. 
Personally  he  proved  to  be  progressive,  welcoming 
gratefully  any  proposal  that  would  be  for  the  good  of  his 
people.  He  had  the  warm  heart  of  a father  to  those 
over  whom  he  ruled,  was  moved  by  their  joys  and 
mourned  with  their  sorrows — a fine  example  of  the  best 
type  of  the  old-fashioned  Chinese  official. 

He  had  little  direct  responsibility  for  combating  the 
epidemic  in  either  of  the  more  northern  provinces  ; and 
in  Harbin  the  doctors  who  gathered  from  Peking  and 
elsewhere  to  fight  it  were  for  a time  handicapped  by  the 
incapacity  and  dilatoriness  of  some  of  the  leading  officials. 
In  Moukden  it  was  very  different.  The  Viceroy  seemed 


236 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


to  have  the  gift  of  choosing  men,  and  there  were  in  office 
some  of  the  most  practically  capable  Chinese  I have  had 
to  do  with.  Specially  notable  was  Mr.  Han , the  Com- 
missioner for  Foreign  Affairs,  on  whom  fell  most  of  the 
responsibility  for  taking  steps  in  plague  prevention.  He 
knew  no  foreign  language,  nor  had  he  a modern  educa- 
tion ; but  he  had  read  much  and  was  thoroughly  up-to- 
date,  he  had  considerable  organizing  powers,  was  prompt 
in  action,  and  always  ready  to  adopt  any  fresh  sugges- 
tion. 

I was  in  close  touch  with  both  the  Viceroy  and  Mr. 
Han , and  at  the  beginning  of  1911  was  asked  officially  to 
become  Honorary  Medical  Adviser  to  the  Government. 
The  Viceroy  had  learned  of  the  deadly  nature  of  the 
pneumonic  form  of  plague,  and  was  keenly  anxious  to 
save  Manchuria  from  its  grasp.  A Plague  Prevention 
Bureau  was  organized,  the  principal  members  besides 
Mr.  Han  being  the  Commissioner  of  the  Interior,  the 
Tao-tai,  the  Chief  of  Police,  and  Dr.  Wang,  the  head 
of  the  Government  Hospital.  With  these  men  I con- 
sulted constantly,  both  privately  and  in  committee,  and 
steps  were  taken,  slowly  it  is  true  according  to  Western 
standards,  but  far  more  rapidly  than  I had  ever  known 
in  China,  to  prepare  for  the  coming  fight. 

Before,  however,  any  preventive  measures  could  even 
be  discussed,  a sick  man  had  been  taken  to  the  Govern- 
ment Hospital  and  had  died  there  of  plague.  Within  a 
few  days  the  alert  police  reported  several  other  cases,  all 
being  men  who  had  just  arrived  by  rail  from  the  north. 
It  was  evident  that  the  railways  were  the  most  urgent 
source  of  danger,  and  that  if  the  traffic  continued,  not 
only  would  Moukden  be  infected,  but  the  disease  would 
be  carried  by  the  Chinese  line  to  Tientsin  and  Peking, 
and  introduced  among  the  closely  packed  millions  of  the 
provinces  of  China.  Unfortunately  the  necessity  for 
limiting  or  stopping  the  traffic  came  at  a specially  difficult 
time.  Chinese  New  Year  was  approaching,  and  crowds 


H.E.  HSI  LIANG,  VICEROY 
“ He  had  the  heart  of  a father  to  those  whom  he  ruled.” 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


237 


of  coolies  were  on  their  way  home  from  the  far  north. 
A thousand  a day  were  being  brought  south  by  the 
Russian  and  Japanese  lines,  and  cheap  tickets  were 
advertised  by  special  trains  on  the  Chinese  line,  for  the 
two  days’  journey  from  Moukden  to  Tientsin.  The 
Government  had  no  authority  over  the  railways  from 
the  north,  but  on  their  own  line  they  arranged  to  stop 
first  the  coolie  trains,  and  then  all  general  traffic.  Some 
time  later  the  Japanese  also  stopped  their  third-class 
and  coolie  traffic. 

There  were  at  this  time  three  British  doctors  on  our 
staff,  Dr.  A.  R.  Young,  Dr.  A.  F.  Jackson,  and  myself. 
We  were  all  anxious  to  do  our  utmost  in  this  fight,  but 
it  was  necessary  to  divide  the  work.  I had  to  devote 
myself  specially  to  the  general  organization  and  direction 
of  anti-plague  measures  ; Dr.  Jackson  volunteered  for 
the  work  at  the  Chinese  railway  station  ; Dr.  Young 
took  charge  of  the  hospital  and  attended  on  foreigners. 

Dr.  xWthur  Jackson  had  only  arrived  in  Moukden  in 
the  middle  of  the  previous  November.  After  a dis- 
tinguished career  at  home  he  had  been  appointed  to  our 
college  staff,  for  which  work  he  was  very  specially  fitted, 
both  professionally  and  personally.  He  was  a Cam- 
bridge graduate  in  Arts  and  Medicine,  had  taken  the 
diploma  of  Tropical  Medicine,  had  wide  experience  in 
home  hospitals,  and  was  of  exceptional  ability.  Personally 
he  won  the  hearts  of  all  with  whom  he  came  in  contact. 
We  have  known  many  new  missionaries,  but  none  who 
became  popular  with  the  Chinese  so  rapidly.  He  seemed 
just  the  man  for  college  work,  and  was  looking  forward 
enthusiastically  to  a life  among  our  Moukden  students, 
in  that  new  college  building  whose  planning  so  keenly 
interested  him. 

The  spectre  of  Plague  was  now  daily  stalking  nearer. 
From  the  2nd  to  the  12th  of  January  twenty-three  deaths 
were  reported  in  Moukden.  On  the  13th  there  were  ten.  On 
Saturday  the  14th  it  was  arranged  to  close  the  Moukden- 


238 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Peking  Railway,  and  that  morning  the  last  special  train 
of  coolies  was  sent  off,  most  of  whom  had  come  down  by 
the  Japanese  line.  They  were  medically  inspected,  but 
one  of  the  difficulties  in  checking  pneumonic  plague  is 
the  frequent  absence  of  premonitory  symptoms,  and 
consequent  impossibility  of  detecting  the  disease  in  its 
earliest  stages.  Two  deaths  occurred  in  that  train, 
and  from  Shan-hai-kwan  it  was  sent  straight  back  to 
Moukden,  with  its  478  souls. 

On  Sunday  afternoon,  a cold  winter  day,  Dr.  Jackson 
’phoned  from  the  Chinese  station,  six  miles  away,  that  he 
would  be  late  back,  as  these  coolies  were  returning,  and 
he  must  stay  to  look  after  them.  It  was  a difficult  situa- 
tion. Not  one  of  the  isolation  stations  was  ready  for  use, 
and  no  empty  building  was  available.  Some  of  the 
authorities  wanted  to  let  all  those  coolies  who  seemed 
well  go  free,  but  that  meant  carrying  infection  broadcast 
through  Moukden.  Others  proposed  to  make  them 
remain  in  the  trucks  till  morning,  but  the  temperature 
during  the  night  had  fallen  to  25°  Fahr.  below  zero,  and 
many  would  certainly  die  of  cold.  “ We  must  do  our 
best  for  the  poor  beggars,”  said  Dr.  Jackson.  The 
Chinese  station  was  but  a temporary  one,  with  scanty 
accommodation  and  few  sheds,  but  near  by  were  a 
number  of  large  Chinese  inns,  and  in  these  the  478 
arrivals  were  hurriedly  housed,  with  a military  guard  to 
prevent  their  leaving. 

During  the  night  several  died,  and  next  day  Dr. 
Jackson  began  the  hand-to-hand  fight  which  lasted  until 
he  himself  was  struck  down  eight  days  later.  A small 
building  was  set  aside  for  those  who  had  plague,  a hospital 
it  could  not  be  called  ; it  was  a comfortably  warm  place 
to  die  in.  Another  house  was  used  for  suspicious  cases, 
most  of  whom  were  removed  to  the  plague -house  one  by 
one.  An  entire  inn  was  kept  for  those  who  had  been  in 
close  contact  with  the  stricken,  and  so  far  as  possible  the 
inmates  of  the  various  inns  were  kept  apart.  In  all  these 


Dll.  ARTHUR  JACKSON 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


239 


arrangements  I was  able  to  help  Dr.  Jackson,  and  he  had 
willing  assistants  on  the  spot.  At  the  same  time  we  were 
pushing  forward  the  preparation  of  a place  to  which  these 
coolies  could  be  removed,  for  the  inns  were  as  unsuitable 
as  could  be — filthy,  dark,  damp,  low-roofed,  huddled 
close  together,  veritable  traps  for  infection. 

As  much  as  possible  of  the  inspection  of  the  men  was 
done  in  the  open  air,  all  having  to  turn  out  twice  a day. 
More  than  one  poor  wretch,  unwilling  to  own  to  the  illness 
he  felt  creeping  over  him,  struggled  into  fine  with  the  rest, 
only  to  collapse  at  the  doctor’s  feet,  and  be  carried  away 
to  die.  Inspection  inside  the  inns  was  also  necessary, 
and  many  times  a day  suspicious  cases  were  reported 
and  seen  promptly.  On  the  Tuesday  Dr.  Jackson  went 
to  five  at  the  station,  in  order  to  be  close  to  his  work  ; 
and  morning,  noon,  and  night  was  unremitting  in  his 
efforts  to  save  from  contamination  those  who  still  had  a 
chance  of  escape.  The  dying  too  received  his  attention, 
and  every  man  in  the  whole  camp  knew  that  no  one 
appealed  in  vain  to  the  foreign  doctor.  His  energetic 
and  sympathetic  personality  made  an  impression  on  all 
who  saw  him  at  work  there,  and  the  Chinese  minor 
official  who  had  been  appointed  to  act  along  with  him 
for  Government,  carried  his  good  report  even  to  the 
Viceroy’s  ears.  All  the  railway  men  swore  by  him, 
and  those  who  came  nearest  to  him  in  helping  him  day 
by  day  have  before  their  inward  vision  for  all  time  a 
fadeless  memory  of  whole-hearted  unselfishness  and 
devotion. 

At  first  it  seemed  a losing  fight.  Day  by  day  men  saw 
their  neighbours  fall  by  their  side  ; in  five  days  seventy 
died.  Panic  seized  the  remainder,  the  military  cordon 
was  not  very  strict,  and  a number  escaped  one  night, 
carrying  infection  into  the  city.  But  by  that  time  the 
worst  was  over.  There  was  one  inn  with  no  deaths  ; 
and  its  sixty  occupants  were  liberated  on  Monday,  the 
23rd,  being  first  shaven  and  bathed,  provided  by  Govern- 


240 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


ment  with  new  clothes,  and  having  their  train  fare 
returned  by  the  railway.  Next  day  the  remaining  coolies, 
who  were  not  yet  out  of  danger,  were  removed  to  a roomy 
compound  in  an  airy  situation  eight  miles  outside  the  city, 
from  which  most  of  them  were  liberated  later  on.  The 
battle  at  the  station  was  won,  but  the  same  day  Dr. 
Jackson  was  taken  ill. 

He  had  always  realized  the  risk  he  was  running,  and 
had  been  most  careful  in  taking  every  precaution. 
When  unavoidably  in  close  contact  with  patients,  he 
would  say  to  his  assistants  : “ Keep  back  ! keep  back  ! 
Don’t  take  any  risks  ! ” But  for  himself  he  did  not  reckon 
danger  where  there  was  service  to  do.  He  rejoiced  in 
his  work,  taking  the  most  lively  interest  in  its  scientific 
aspect.  “Not  many  fellows  get  such  a chance  as  this,” 
he  said,  on  his  last  working  day.  He  was  in  full  vigour 
that  Monday,  in  great  spirits  over  the  discharge  of  his 
sixty  men,  looking  forward  to  the  removal  of  ail  the 
others  the  following  day,  and  talking  of  his  speedy  return 
among  us  and  the  share  he  would  take  in  the  super- 
intendence of  isolation  camps.  But  it  was  not  to  be. 
Already  Plague  had  marked  him  as  its  victim.  We  do 
not  know  the  fatal  moment.  Was  it  when  he  supported 
a poor  staggering  fellow  to  the  Plague-house,  or  when 
giving  a cup  of  water  to  the  dying  ? He  had  been 
inoculated  against  Plague,  was  closely  masked,  and,  as 
we  thought,  well  protected  from  infection  ; but  it  found 
entrance  to  his  lungs  somehow. 

Each  morning  we  consulted  together  on  the  telephone, 
and  on  Tuesday  he  mentioned  casually  that  he  was  not 
feeling  up  to  the  mark.  I went  straight  to  the  station 
and  found  that  he  was  feverish.  Not  liking  his  look,  I 
persuaded  him  to  go  to  bed,  though  he  insisted  there  was 
really  no  cause  for  anxiety.  All  that  day,  as  his  symptoms 
developed,  we  held  our  breath  with  fear,  saying  little, 
and  Dr.  Young  and  I took  it  in  turn  to  be  on  the  spot.  In 
the  evening  the  unmistakable  Plague  sign  appeared,  the 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


241 


bloody  spit.  He  was  alone  at  the  moment,  but  his 
unselfish  courage  did  not  fail.  When  Dr.  Young  returned 
to  the  room  he  was  met  by  the  warning  not  to  come  near, 
and  as  long  as  consciousness  lasted  his  concern  was  for  the 
safety  of  those  attending  him.  Every  known  method 
was  used  by  Dr.  Young  and  myself,  but  in  vain.  The 
disease  ran  its  rapid  course,  and  he  died  in  little  more 
than  twenty -four  hours. 

Dr.  Jackson’s  death  came  as  a terrible  shock  to  all  who 
knew  him.  He  was  so  strong,  athletic,  reliable,  full  of 
fun  and  vivid  personality,  that  it  seemed  impossible  he 
should  be  so  suddenly  cut  off.  We  had  not  realized  till 
then  what  a hold  he  had  gained  on  the  affections  of  the 
Chinese  who  came  in  contact  with  him.  Their  grief  was 
sincere  and  deep.  Still  more  marked  was  the  impression 
made  by  his  death  on  the  officials  and  the  general 
public,  who  had  never  even  seen  him.  When  it  was 
known  that  he  was  ill,  the  Viceroy  stationed  special 
messengers  outside  the  house  where  he  lay,  to  convey 
constant  news  of  his  condition,  and  on  hearing  of  his 
death  was  deeply  moved.  During  the  six  succeeding  days, 
which  Dr.  Young  and  I spent  in  isolation,  many  telegrams, 
letters,  and  messages  of  sympathy  were  received  from 
Chinese  and  foreigners,  and  appreciative  articles  and 
letters  appeared  in  one  Chinese  paper  after  another. 
What  seemed  to  strike  home  to  the  Chinese  heart  was 
his  youth,  his  willing  service,  his  death  for  their  sakes  ; 
and  recognizing  him  as  a Christian  they  also  saw  clearly 
that  in  his  death  he  was  but  following  in  the  footsteps 
of  Another. 

“Now  he  has  given  his  only  life  for  the  lives  of 
others,  we  see  that  he  was  a true  Christian,  who  has 
done  what  Jesus  did  thousands  of  years  ago.” 

“ His  death  in  labouring  for  our  country  was  actually 
carrying  out  the  Christian  principle  of  giving  up  one’s 
life  to  save  the  world.” 


242 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ He  was  able  to  do  what  lie  did  because  he  held 
firmly  to  the  great  principle  of  his  religion,  to  sacrifice 
one’s  own  life  for  the  salvation  of  others.  Dr.  Jackson 
has  not  died  of  plague,  he  died  for  duty,  and  he  is  not 
truly  dead.” 

“ He  did  the  will  of  God,  to  die  for  all.  He  came  to 
China  to  be  a teacher  in  the  Medical  College,  but  all 
that  he  had  learned  he  offered  up,  to  save  men.  His 
work  is  not  finished,  and  his  death  will  not  destroy  it.” 

Strange  words  these,  from  four  different  non-Christian 
pens  in  non-Christian  Chinese  newspapers. 

A week  after  his  death  a Memorial  Service  was  held  at 
the  British  Consulate,  attended  by  the  Viceroy,  about 
twenty  of  the  leading  officials,  and  almost  all  the  foreigners 
in  Moukden.  At  the  end  the  Viceroy  read  the  address 
which  has  been  so  widely  circulated  : 

“We  have  shown  ourselves  unworthy  of  the  trust 
laid  upon  us  by  our  Emperor  ; we  have  allowed  a dire 
pestilence  to  overrun  the  sacred  capital. 

“ His  Majesty  the  King  of  Great  Britain  shows 
sympathy  with  every  country  when  calamity  over- 
takes it ; his  subject,  Dr.  Jackson,  moved  by  his 
Sovereign’s  spirit,  and  with  the  heart  of  the  Saviour, 
who  gave  His  life  to  deliver  the  world,  responded  nobly 
when  we  asked  him  to  help  our  country  in  its  time  of 
need. 

“ He  went  forth  to  help  us  in  our  fight  daily,  where 
the  pest  lay  thickest ; amidst  the  groans  of  the  dying 
he  struggled  to  cure  the  stricken,  to  find  medicine  to 
stay  the  evil. 

“ Worn  by  his  efforts,  the  pestilence  seized  upon 
him,  and  took  him  from  us  long  ere  his  time.  Our 
sorrow  is  beyond  all  measure  ; our  grief  too  deep  for 
words. 

“Dr.  Jackson  was  a young  man  of  high  education 
and  great  natural  ability.  He  came  to  Manchuria  with 
the  intention  of  spreading  medical  knowledge,  and 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


243 


thus  conferring  untold  blessings  on  the  Eastern  people. 
In  pursuit  of  his  ideal  he  was  cut  down.  The  Presby- 
terian Mission  has  lost  a recruit  of  great  promise,  the 
Chinese  Government  a man  who  gave  his  life  in  his 
desire  to  help  them. 

“ 0,  Spirit  of  Dr.  Jackson,  we  pray  you  intercede 
for  the  twenty  million  people  of  Manchuria,  and  ask 
the  Lord  of  Heaven  to  take  away  this  pestilence,  so 
that  we  may  once  more  lay  our  heads  in  peace  upon 
our  pillows. 

“ In  life  you  were  brave,  now  you  are  an  exalted 
Spirit.  Noble  Spirit,  who  sacrificed  your  life  for  us, 
help  us  still,  and  look  down  in  kindness  upon  us  all ! 

Our  hearts  were  torn  with  the  sense  of  disaster  and 
grievous  personal  loss,  but  there  rose  within  us  the 
consciousness  that  he  had  done  more  by  his  death  than 
could  have  been  accomplished  by  a long  life,  even  such  a 
fife  of  usefulness  as  we  had  anticipated  for  him.  He 
had  been  preparing  for  it  for  many  years,  and  then  he  was 
but  ten  weeks  in  China.  The  consummation  of  his  fife- 
work  was  pressed  into  those  last  busy  days,  and  the 
greatest  part  of  all  was  his  death. 

He  is  buried  in  a quiet  country  spot  about  a 
mile  distant  from  the  college,  outside  the  city.  The 
Government  gave  the  ground  and  built  a wall  round  it, 
and  his  fellow  - missionaries  have  erected  a memorial 
stone. 

The  Viceroy  had  at  once  sent  me  a letter  of  sympathy 
to  forward  to  Dr.  Jackson’s  mother,  along  with  $10,000 
(about  £900)  “ for  the  use  of  his  family,”  saying  : 
“ His  heart  was  in  the  saving  of  the  world,  and  he  brought 
an  incalculable  benefit  to  this  land,  which  I hold  in 
grateful  remembrance.”  This  money  Mrs.  Jackson 
immediately  gave  to  the  Medical  College,  that  a part 
of  the  building  might  form  a memorial  to  her  son.  The 
Viceroy  was  deeply  moved  on  hearing  of  this.  “ What  a 
mother  ! ” he  exclaimed,  “ and  what  a son  ! ” and  he 


244 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


said  he  would  like  personally  to  add  to  it,  that  the  building 
might  be  a really  worthy  memorial.  For  this  purpose  he 
gave  $4000. 

In  the  hall  of  the  college  hangs  a tablet  with  this 
inscription  : 

IN  MEMORY  OF 

ARTHUR  FRAME  JACKSON 

B.A.,  M.B.,  B.C.,  D.T.M. 

Who  came  to  Moukden  to  teach  in  this  College, 
Believing  that  by  serving  China  he  might  best  serve  God, 
And  who  laid  down  his  life  in  that  service 
On  January  25th,  1911 
Aged  26 

While  Striving  to  stay  the  advance  of  Pneumonic  Plague 
The  western  half  of  this  building  is  erected 

BY 

MRS.  JACKSON,  HIS  MOTHER 

AND 

HIS  EXCELLENCY  HSI  LIANG 
Viceroy  of  Manchuria 


Opposite  there  is  an  enlarged  photograph  of  Dr.  Jackson 
which  was  unveiled  by  Dr.  Mott  early  in  1913. 

Soon  after  Dr.  Jackson’s  death  a movement  was  set 
on  foot  to  raise  a fund  for  the  endowment  of  a “ Jackson 
Memorial  Chair  ” in  the  college.  The  Viceroy  headed 
the  list  with  $5000,  and  the  Board  of  Communications 
gave  $2000.  The  contributions  from  many  Chinese  who 
did  not  know  him  show  how  the  death  of  a foreigner 
“ for  China  ” was  regarded.  The  list  ranges  from  Prince 
Su  and  our  two  ex -Viceroys  Chao  Er  Sun  and  Hsu  Shill 
Cliang,  down  to  humble  employees,  some  of  whom  sub- 
scribed ten  cents,  or  twopence.  The  sum  raised  in  China 
amounted  to  over  £1000,  but  little  was  done  to  make  the 
matter  known  at  home,  so  that  the  response  there  was 
meagre. 

For  the  students  of  the  Medical  College  Dr.  Jackson  is 


DR.  JACKSON  S GRAVE 


THE  BLACK  DEATH 


245 


the  modern  embodiment  of  the  Christian  Ideal  to  which 
they  are  striving.  “ He  being  dead  yet  speaketh.” 
His  truest  memorial  will  be  found  in  the  lives  of  young 
men  whose  thoughts  and  aspirations  have  been  lifted  to  a 
higher  level  by  his  example,  and  who  seek  to  live  the 
life  he  lived  of  service  and  sacrifice,  following  the  Master 
whom  he  followed  so  closely. 


XXVI 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


“ Our  interest’s  on  the  dangerous  edge  of  things.” 

“ Bishop  Blougram  ” — R.  Browning. 


LAGUE  prevention  measures  were  early  taken  in 


J-  Moukden,  and  the  Plague  Bureau  faced  its  work  with 
energy  and  determination.  As  the  disease  was  spread  by 
direct  infection,  it  might  evidently  be  possible  to  stamp 
it  out  altogether.  Effort  had  to  be  directed  firstly  towards 
keeping  new  Plague  cases  out  of  the  city,  and  secondly 
towards  the  complete  isolation  of  the  inmates  of  con- 
taminated houses,  until  the  period  of  danger  should  be 
over.  Unfortunately  the  former  was  impossible,  for  as 
fast  as  those  in  contact  with  one  case  were  isolated, 
fresh  cases  were  imported  from  the  north.  We  could 
only  hope  to  limit  the  extent  of  the  epidemic,  and  we 
directed  our  plan  of  campaign  accordingly. 

Between  the  railway  stations  and  the  city  a temple 
was  set  aside  for  a Plague  hospital,  repairs  being  begun 
at  once.  Six  isolation  camps  were  arranged  outside  the 
city  in  different  quarters,  three  of  which  had  to  be  built 
on  purpose.  A bacteriological  laboratory  was  established. 
A burying-ground  was  selected,  and  a force  of  grave- 
diggers hired,  who  were  set  to  the  hard  task  of  digging 
deep  graves  in  the  frozen  ground  where  any  who  should 
die  might  immediately  be  buried.  The  city  was  divided 
into  districts,  over  each  of  which  was  placed  a man  with 
some  medical  knowledge,  fully  qualified  doctors  not 
being  available,  and  under  him  were  an  assistant,  a staff 
of  sanitary  police,  disinfecting  coolies,  and  bearers. 
House-to-house  visitation  was  decided  upon,  that  all 


246 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


247 


Plague  cases  might  be  promptly  discovered  and  removed, 
and  contacts  taken  to  the  isolation  stations.  These 
arrangements  took  some  time  to  perfect,  but  were  brought 
into  operation  as  speedily  as  possible. 

Meantime  the  wildest  stories  began  to  circulate  through 
the  country  regarding  Plague  and  its  origin,  many  of 
which  are  firmly  believed  by  some  to  this  day.  The 
Japanese  were  credited  with  encouraging  or  even  causing 
the  epidemic  in  order  to  destroy  the  people  and  possess 
the  land.  The  old  slanders,  formerly  directed  against  all 
foreigners,  were  now  revived  and  applied  to  them  alone. 
It  was  universally  stated  that  they  were  poisoning  the 
wells.  Where  the  idea  originated  no  one  knows,  but 
there  was  hardly  a well  in  city,  town,  or  country  that 
was  not  safeguarded  by  a padlocked  wooden  cover  ; 
and  the  well-cleaners  were  kept  so  busy  that  they  charged 
four  times  their  usual  rates.  At  first,  though  most  people 
believed  the  story,  no  proof  was  given  ; but  after  a time 
we  began  to  hear  circumstantial  statements  about  a 
white  powder  found  round  the  mouths  of  wells.  Men 
were  arrested  in  various  villages  with  this  powder  in  their 
possession,  who  were  reported  to  have  said  that  they 
were  paid  by  the  Japanese  to  put  it  in  the  water.  At  last 
I succeeded  in  having  brought  to  me  for  analysis  one  of 
these  mysterious  packets,  picked  up  by  a policeman 
beside  a locked  well  in  Moukden.  It  was  found  to  contain 
a harmless  mixture  of  naphthalin  and  a white  powder 
used  in  preparing  Chinese  pork  for  the  market.  This 
only  increased  the  mystery.  Who  scattered  these 
meaningless  powders  over  the  country  ? and  why  ? 

In  the  struggle  against  Plague,  the  Moukden  Govern- 
ment was  faced  with  many  difficulties,  not  unlike  those 
which  hampered  our  British  authorities  in  their  efforts 
to  stamp  out  cholera  in  England  seventy  years  ago.  At 
the  beginning  there  was  general  disbelief  in  the  necessity 
or  usefulness  of  preventive  measures.  It  was  an  absolute 
novelty  to  the  Chinese  mind  to  attempt  to  check  the 


248 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


spread  of  any  infection,  and  apathy  naturally  accom- 
panied their  fatalism.  “ This  is  the  scourge  of  Heaven,” 
said  many.  “ All  will  die  whose  time  has  come,  and  no 
others.  Then  why  take  people  away  to  isolation  stations  ? 
Why  burn  good  clothes  and  bedding  ? ” 

Interference  with  personal  liberty  was  strongly  re- 
sented, and  still  more  the  disturbance  of  trade  and  busi- 
ness. When  a shop  was  forcibly  closed  and  disinfected, 
and  twenty-nine  persons  removed  from  it  to  an  isolation 
station  because  of  the  death  of  a thirtieth,  the  merchants 
were  highly  incensed.  The  co-operation  of  the  general 
public  could  thus  hardly  be  expected.  When  the  house- 
to-house  visitation  began  it  caused  much  fear.  It  was 
said  that  every  sick  person  was  to  be  removed,  and  those 
who  had  been  ill  for  weeks  struggled  to  rise  and  present 
a cheerful  front  to  the  unwelcome  intruders.  As  days 
went  on  and  no  terrible  results  followed  from  the  police 
inspection,  it  came  to  be  welcomed  by  many  as  a kind  of 
official  certificate  of  health  and  protection  from  Plague. 
The  inspection  was,  of  course,  far  from  complete,  being 
carried  out  by  untrained  men ; but  it  worked  well, 
and  to  it  is  largely  due  the  fact  that  Moukden  was  saved 
from  being  swept  by  Plague,  as  were  Harbin  and  other 
northern  cities. 

The  isolation  camps  were  at  first  a source  of  great  dread. 
Many  threw  out  their  dead  and  concealed  their  sick  for 
fear  of  being  taken  there,  and  Plague  cases  were  thrust 
out  to  die  on  the  streets,  especially  from  inns  and  lodging- 
houses.  It  was  said  that  everyone  who  went  there  would 
die,  that  people  were  sent  from  them  to  the  Plague 
hospital  who  had  not  Plague,  and  that  some  were  buried 
before  they  were  dead ; and  many  other  groundless 
calumnies  were  repeated.  Gradually  this  feeling  died 
down.  A warm  hang  was  provided,  and  plenty  of  good 
food,  and  there  was  no  need  to  work.  The  members  of 
each  household  were  encouraged  to  keep  by  themselves, 
and  when  they  returned  home  after  their  ten  days’ 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


249 


holiday,  they  found  that  their  houses  had  been  well 
guarded,  and  that  they  received  full  compensation  for 
anything  burned  by  the  police. 

Another  difficulty  which  greatly  hampered  the  Plague 
Bureau  in  its  operations  was  the  lack  of  trained  assistants. 
In  looking  back  we  cannot  but  wonder  at  the  efficiency 
of  the  work,  considering  that  hospital  students  had  to  act 
as  doctors,  and  that  there  was  no  time  to  give  much 
practical  instruction  to  the  inspectors  and  police  corps. 
They  were  helped  by  the  fact  that  pneumonic  plague  is 
usually  easy  to  recognize,  once  it  has  declared  itself. 
Early  every  morning  the  Sanitary  Police  staff,  in  the 
clean  white  overalls  and  masks,  started  on  their  rounds, 
each  party  to  its  appointed  district.  Inns,  lodging-houses, 
and  tea-houses  were  visited  daily,  as  well  as  any  locality 
where  Plague  cases  had  occurred,  other  districts  every 
second  day.  If  a policeman  found  what  seemed  a 
suspicious  case,  he  called  in  the  chief  of  his  party.  If  it 
was  doubtful,  a note  of  it  was  taken  and  another  call  paid 
some  hours  later.  If  it  was  clearly  Plague,  bearers  were 
summoned  and  the  patient  taken  straight  to  the  hospital. 
The  district  police-station  was  notified,  the  inmates  of  the 
house  conveyed  to  the  nearest  isolation  station,  the 
bedding  of  the  sick  person  and  other  articles  burned,  the 
house  disinfected  and  put  under  guard. 

One  day  a foreigner  saw  a sudden  stir  and  excitement 
in  a restaurant  on  a main  street ; a man  had  fallen  down 
ill,  and  quickly  became  unconscious.  The  police  were 
called,  and  within  two  hours  all  was  complete,  the 
premises  empty,  disinfected,  and  closed,  with  a cordon 
of  soldiers  round  them.  When  the  day’s  work  was  over 
each  member  of  the  Plague  staff  visited  a disinfecting 
station,  where  he  had  a bath  and  left  his  outer  garments 
to  be  disinfected. 

When  the  isolation  stations  were  ready  for  use,  there 
was  a call  for  men  to  superintend  them.  I asked  our 
dozen  assistants  and  dispensers  for  four  volunteers,  and 


250 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


every  man  of  them  stepped  forward.  This  was  shortly 
after  Dr.  Jackson’s  death,  so  that  they  knew  the  danger. 
A little  later  another  of  our  medical  missionaries  under- 
took the  charge  and  inspection  of  all  the  isolation  stations, 
and  found  them  being  well  worked  and  efficiently  super- 
intended. 

It  was  some  time  before  opposition  to  Government 
measures  altogether  ceased.  The  most  serious  resistance 
was  on  the  part  of  some  merchants,  who  determined  that 
their  business  should  not  be  interfered  with.  They  com- 
bined to  have  a Plague  hospital  of  their  own,  and  came 
to  me  about  it  at  the  outset,  asking  me  to  take  charge 
and  to  place  one  of  my  assistants  over  it.  I tried  to  con- 
vince them  that  this  could  only  be  done  in  co-operation 
with  Government,  and  under  the  same  strict  regulations 
as  were  laid  down  by  the  Plague  Bureau,  else  it  would 
be  worse  than  useless  ; but  they  would  not  listen.  They 
opened  their  hospital.  On  one  side  of  the  compound 
were  isolation  quarters,  and  on  the  other  rooms  for 
undoubted  Plague  cases,  who  were  treated  by  needling 
and  other  methods,  all  under  the  charge  of  two  native 
doctors.  No  proper  precautions  were  taken,  no  masks 
were  worn.  Rapidly  the  disease  spread.  Those  on  the 
isolation  side  became  infected,  and  almost  all  died,  in- 
cluding the  two  doctors.  Then  in  consternation  the 
merchants  allowed  the  police  to  disinfect  and  close  the 
place.  It  had  been  in  use  for  twelve  days,  and  251  had 
died,  most  of  them  in  the  last  wreek.  It  was  a costly 
experiment,  but  it  taught  Moukden  a lesson. 

Owing  to  the  effective  measures  taken,  the  mortality 
in  Moukden  from  Plague  did  not  actually  rise  high.  Most 
of  the  deaths  were  in  the  western  slums  of  the  city  where 
the  migratory  coolie  class  congregate,  for  the  bacilli 
seem  to  thrive  in  darkness,  dirt,  and  overcrowded  rooms. 
The  strong  and  vigorous  seemed  as  susceptible  as  the 
weak,  and  the  infection  often  passed  over  the  aged  and 
the  very  young. 


HEADY  FOR  PLAGUE  WORK 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


251 


One  important  aid  in  the  fight  was  the  posting  up  of 
placards  all  over  the  city,  explaining  in  the  simplest 
everyday  language  the  dangers  of  the  epidemic,  how  it 
spread,  and  the  measures  taken  against  it.  A small  paper 
called  the  “ Plague  Bulletin,”  giving  a daily  official 
report,  was  also  widely  circulated.  Fresh  placards  were 
issued  almost  daily.  One  of  these  told  circumstantially 
how  Plague  was  introduced  into  a particular  village. 
Two  carts,  laden  with  tobacco  leaf  and  other  things, 
arrived  one  day  at  an  inn.  On  one  of  the  carts,  hidden 
among  the  goods,  and  wrapped  in  tobacco  leaves,  were 
two  bodies,  which  the  carter  had  been  well  paid  to  convey 
secretly  to  an  ancestral  burying-ground  at  some  distance. 
He  seemed  for  some  reason  to  have  taken  fright,  for  early 
next  morning  he  left  with  the  other  cart,  abandoning  this 
one  with  its  load.  After  waiting  a day  or  two,  the  inn- 
keeper proceeded  to  confiscate  the  tobacco  to  pay  the 
carter’s  inn  bill,  and  discovered  the  bodies.  Fearing  to 
have  his  inn  closed  by  the  authorities,  he  said  nothing,  but 
secretly  had  them  buried.  Within  a short  time  he  and 
about  twenty  others  of  his  household  and  inmates  of  the 
inn  died  of  Plague. 

Chinese  New  Year  drew  near,  the  great  time  for  visita- 
tion of  friends,  when  every  man  pays  scores  of  calls, 
[n  one  proclamation  the  Viceroy  urged  his  people,  in 
fatherly  fashion,  to  refrain  from  these  calls  for  the  sake 
of  the  public  good  ; in  another  he  strictly  commanded 
all  to  remain  at  home  that  day.  On  New  Year’s  Eve 
snow  began  to  fall,  and  continued  all  night  and  all  day, 
bill  it  was  fourteen  inches  deep,  a more  effective  hindrance 
to  moving  about  than  many  proclamations.  During  the 
next  two  months  we  had  a most  exceptional  amount  of 
snow,  two  of  the  falls  being  over  a foot,  and  several  four 
or  five  inches.  Many  of  the  streets  were  often  almost 
impassable,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  helped  greatly 
to  lessen  the  spread  of  infection. 

The  snow’  brought  a new  danger — it  made  easy  the 


252 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


temporary  concealment  of  bodies  in  the  heaps  shovelled 
into  the  corners  of  the  yards.  The  city  authorities  em- 
ployed hundreds  of  carts  to  remove  it,  first  from  the 
streets  and  then  from  compounds.  One  of  the  Govern- 
ment placards  announced  that  a carter  had  been  dis- 
covered to  have  made  large  sums  of  money  by  carrying 
out  Plague  corpses  hidden  in  the  snow.  Ten  times  he  did 
this,  then  Plague  seized  him,  and  every  member  of  his 
household  died  also.  The  name  and  address  of  the  man 
were  mentioned,  and  the  public  warned  against  such 
action.  These  tales  and  many  others  like  them  were  told 
in  every  home  in  Moukden. 

The  Government  concerned  itself  with  other  places 
besides  the  capital.  Every  city  and  town  received  copies 
of  placards,  instructions  for  guarding  against  the  entrance 
of  Plague,  and  stringent  orders  as  to  the  carrying  out  of 
these  measures.  In  one  town  of  about  twenty  thousand 
people  Plague  had  appeared,  and  the  officials  were  doing 
nothing,  neither  isolating,  disinfecting,  nor  even  burying 
the  dead.  I received  word  from  a foreigner  that  the 
disease  was  beginning  to  spread  rapidly.  An  intelligent 
official  who  had  seen  something  of  Moukden  methods 
was  promptly  sent  by  the  Viceroy  as  special  Plague 
Commissioner  with  full  powers,  and  in  three  days  the 
whole  situation  was  changed,  active  preventive  measures 
set  a-going,  and  the  city  thereby  saved. 

Plague  did  not  confine  itself  to  the  railway  lines  and 
large  towns,  but  soon  crept  along  the  country  roads  and 
into  the  villages.  At  first  the  ignorant  people  exposed 
themselves  blindly  to  infection.  A man  in  a small 
hamlet  came  home  ill  from  Moukden  and  died,  his  family 
attending  on  him  and  performing  the  usual  rites.  A 
few  days  later  the  entire  household  of  seven  died  within 
twenty-four  hours,  except  one  infant  who  was  found 
wailing  beside  the  dead  mother.  The  neighbours  buried 
the  bodies  and  helped  themselves  to  the  contents  of  the 
house — clothing,  bedding,  etc.,  even  the  matting  on  which 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


253 


the  stricken  had  lain.  Another  few  days,  and  one  after 
another  was  attacked,  until  the  whole  of  that  village, 
about  150  souls,  had  died,  except  an  old  woman  of  over 
seventy,  and  three  infants. 

Tragedies  such  as  this  were  reported  in  the  villages 
far  and  near,  till  there  arose  in  men’s  minds  a terror  of 
Plague,  such  as  the  most  fatal  epidemic  of  cholera  had 
never  produced.  The  instinct  of  self-defence  triumphed 
over  fatalism  ; the  placards  and  leaflets  sent  out  by  the 
thousand  from  Moukden  were  read  in  every  village  and 
homestead ; and  the  people  themselves  instituted 
wonderfully  effective  anti-plague  measures.  In  very 
many  places  the  inns  were  closed,  and  no  visitor,  however 
intimate,  allowed  to  spend  a night  in  a house.  The 
approaches  to  the  village  were  guarded,  and  carters 
warned  to  go  round  outside.  Frequently  the  villagers 
combined  to  send  in  their  goods  in  carts  to  the  city  and 
purchase  supplies  by  the  hand  of  reliable  men,  who  were 
not  allowed  to  enter  an  inn  there  or  come  in  touch  with 
any  but  those  absolutely  necessary,  and  who  returned 
home  the  same  day.  There  were  scores  of  villages  round 
Moukden  which  in  these  ways  prevented  the  disease 
from  entering. 

One  afternoon  there  arrived  at  a hamlet  some  fifteen 
miles  away  a young  man  from  the  city  to  visit  his  father. 
To  his  dismay  he  was  stopped  and  refused  entrance.  It 
was  too  late  to  get  back  to  Moukden  that  night,  so 
the  father  pled  for  him  and  promised  he  should  leave 
before  daylight,  and  the  village  elders  at  last  yielded. 
In  the  night  he  became  ill,  and  in  the  grey  dawn  the 
father  himself  supported  him  away  to  a distance,  and  left 
him  to  die  in  the  snow.  The  sacrifice  was  in  vain.  In  due 
time  the  father  too  died,  and  every  member  of  the  home. 
By  cutting  off  all  communication  with  this  house  from  the 
first,  the  rest  of  the  village  was  saved. 

A Korean  and  his  wife,  medicine-sellers,  arrived  one 
bitter  cold  night  at  a village  where  the  restrictions  were 


254 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


less  severe,  but  no  one  would  receive  them.  At  last, 
as  they  were  turning  away  in  despair,  a kind-hearted 
Christian  had  pity  on  them  and  took  them  in.  In  the 
morning  the  Korean  woman  died  of  Plague,  and  her 
husband  fled.  The  whole  of  that  household  died,  and 
several  inhabitants  of  the  village. 

The  battle  with  Plague  in  Manchuria  lasted  over  three 
months,  and  taxed  to  the  utmost  the  resources  of  all 
engaged  in  it.  The  earlier  half  of  the  struggle  was  the 
most  strenuous,  when  the  number  of  deaths  per  day  was 
rising  and  rising  in  successive  waves,  and  no  one  knew 
how  high  it  would  reach,  or  whether  we  should  succeed 
in  controlling  it  at  all — when  the  subordinates  of  the 
staff  had  not  yet  learned  their  duties  and  were  constantly 
making  mistakes — when  the  opposition  of  the  merchants 
and  the  apathy  of  the  people  gave  rise  to  a feeling  of 
despair  of  any  good  results.  The  fatal  venture  of  the 
merchants  was  the  turning-point.  Fitfully  and  slowly 
the  deaths  reported  fell  during  March,  until  at  last  there 
was,  for  the  first  time  since  the  beginning  of  January,  a 
day  without  any.  Scientific  methods  were  telling,  and 
the  milder  weather  helped  ; but  it  was  not  until  well  on 
in  April  that  the  last  case  was  reported.  For  the  last 
few  weeks  we  had  the  valuable  assistance  of  several 
foreign  doctors  from  other  parts  of  China  ; but  the  brunt 
of  the  battle  in  Moukden  was  borne  by  the  Chinese 
themselves,  who  worked  intelligently  and  heartily, 
shoulder  to  shoulder  with  their  foreign  colleagues. 

While  Plague  was  still  raging  its  fiercest  and  spreading 
fast,  and  when  there  seemed  reason  to  fear  that  it  would 
be  difficult  to  stamp  it  out,  the  Chinese  Government 
invited  an  International  Commission  of  specialists  to 
meet  in  Moukden  to  investigate  the  nature  of  the  disease, 
and  to  confer  as  to  methods  for  its  eradication  and  pre- 
vention. Thirty-Jhree  delegates  were  appointed  by 
eleven  different  countries,  and  I had  the  honour  of  being 
asked  to  be  one  of  the  Chinese  delegation.  It  was  a 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


255 


remarkable  gathering,  and  was  accommodated  and 
entertained  in  a unique  manner. 

Next  door  to  the  site  where  we  were  about  to  build  our 
Medical  College  was  an  extensive  compound  belonging 
to  Government,  used  as  an  Industrial  School,  but  now 
closed  on  account  of  the  Plague.  It  was  decided  to  utilize 
part  of  it  for  the  Conference,  and  all  March  workmen  were 
busy  preparing  it.  Four  long,  one-story  buildings,  one 
behind  the  other,  lent  themselves  easily  to  this  purpose. 
The  front  block  was  transformed  into  Conference  Hall, 
secretaries’  rooms,  drawing-room,  and  dining-hall.  The 
other  three  were  used  for  bedrooms,  of  which  there  were 
about  fifty,  as  there  were  secretaries  and  others  besides 
delegates.  Each  room  was  comfortably  furnished,  and 
all  were  lighted  by  electricity.  No  expense  wras  spared, 
and  I was  frequently  consulted  as  to  how  to  make  things 
convenient  for  the  foreign  guests.  Immediately  to  the 
east  was  the  old  temple  which  we  had  used  as  a hospital 
during  the  war,  the  San  Yi  Miao , now  a part  of  the 
Industrial  School.  This  was  turned  into  laboratories. 
The  hospital  being  so  conveniently  near,  I was  asked  to 
allow  part  of  it  to  be  utilized  as  an  overflow,  and  the 
Government  installed  electric  light  throughout  the  entire 
buildings.  The  most  striking  part  of  all  the  preparations 
was  the  Conference  Hall  itself,  got  up  with  perfect  taste — 
rich  green  carpet,  curtains,  and  chairs,  and  round  the  wall 
instead  of  a cornice  a beautiful  trailing  device  of  pale 
wistaria. 

From  first  to  last  the  Conference  and  all  its  members 
were  regarded  as  guests  of  the  Chinese  Government, 
and  many  of  the  delegates  remarked  that  never  in  their 
experience  of  Conferences  had  they  been  treated  so  hand- 
somely. Not  only  were  they  entertained  as  if  at  a private 
hotel,  but  there  were  carriages  at  their  disposal  whenever 
they  had  time  or  occasion  to  use  them,  and  their  very 
letters  were  stamped  for  them. 

The  Conference  was  summoned  for  3 April,  1911,  by 


256 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


which  time  there  were  very  few  cases  of  Plague  in  Mouk- 
den.  The  delegates  and  other  guests,  including  members 
of  the  various  diplomatic  corps,  were  received  in  the 
Conference  Hall  by  H.E.  Hsi  Liang,  Viceroy  of  Man- 
churia, and  the  Imperial  Commissioner,  the  Hon.  Alfred 
Sze.  The  Chairman  of  Conference  was  Dr.  Wu  Lien 
Teh , a distinguished  Chinese  medical  graduate  of  Cam- 
bridge, who  had  spent  the  previous  months  in  Plague 
work  in  Harbin.  He  presided  over  the  gatherings  with  a 
dignity  and  ability  which  called  forth  the  admiration  of 
all.  The  language  most  used  was  English,  but  Chinese, 
German,  and  French  were  also  recognized  as  official 
languages,  and  Russian  and  Japanese  were  sometimes 
employed  and  translated  into  English. 

From  the  opening  day  until  the  closing  ceremony  on 
28  April,  the  Conference  had  constant  meetings,  and 
every  aspect  of  the  pneumonic  plague  problem  was  dis- 
cussed— its  origin  and  spread,  clinical  data,  bacteriology, 
pathology,  measures  employed  to  combat  the  epidemic, 
and  its  effect  on  trade.  A complete  report  of  the  pro- 
ceedings has  been  published,  with  a resume  of  the  con- 
clusions arrived  at,  so  that  if  ever  a similar  epidemic 
visits  this  earth,  it  will  find  the  medical  profession  much 
more  fully  prepared  to  meet  and  combat  it. 

The  Conference  delegates  were  invited  to  spend  one 
week-end  in  Port  Arthur  and  Dalny  as  guests  of  the 
Japanese  Government,  and  another  in  Harbin  as  guests 
of  the  Russian  Government.  At  the  conclusion  of  the 
Conference  we  were  invited  by  the  Chinese  Government 
to  visit  Peking,  where  we  were  feted  royally  for  some  days, 
and  shown  the  sights  of  the  capital  in  a way  vouchsafed 
to  few.  We  were  received  in  audience  in  the  Winter 
Palace  by  the  Prince  Regent  along  with  several  other 
princes.  At  some  of  the  gatherings  we  met  notable 
historical  personages,  a conversation  with  the  famous 
Prince  Ching  being  of  special  interest  to  me. 

The  Plague  Conference  was  over,  and  the  epidemic  a 


FIGHTING  THE  PLAGUE 


257 


thing  of  the  past,  but  those  months  could  not  be  quickly 
wiped  out  from  men’s  memories.  The  value  of  modem 
methods  was  burned  into  many  a mind,  and  a knowledge 
of  Western  medicine,  always  valued,  was  now  regarded  in 
Manchuria  as  a possession  of  supreme  importance.  Some 
apprehension  continued  lest  there  should  be  a recru- 
descence of  pneumonic  plague  in  the  following  winter  or 
later,  and  I was  asked  by  the  Moukden  Government  to 
secure  an  additional  man  for  the  college  staff,  whose 
salary  would  be  paid  by  Government,  and  who  would  be 
ready  for  special  service  in  the  case  of  an  epidemic  of 
Plague  or  any  other  serious  emergency.  A most  im- 
portant step  was  taken  by  the  Imperial  Government,  in 
establishing  at  Harbin  an  Anti-Plague  Bureau,  under  the 
able  and  energetic  direction  of  Dr.  Wu  Lien  Teh.  He 
has  organized  a staff  of  fully  qualified  doctors,  and 
established  well-equipped  hospitals,  laboratories,  and 
investigation  centres  at  important  points  from  Harbin 
northwards.  Provision  being  thus  made  for  detecting 
and  dealing  with  the  disease  near  its  sources,  we  have 
every  reason  to  hope  that  Manchuria  will  not  again  be 
visited  by  this  terrible  scourge. 


XXVII 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION 
H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun,  Viceroy,  1911-12 
“ ’Tis  time 

New  hopes  should  animate  the  world,  new  light 
Should  dawn  from  new  revealings  to  a race 
Weighed  down  so  long,  forgotten  so  long.’ 

“ Paracelsus  ” — R.  Browning. 

ONCE  more  the  head  of  Government  in  Manchuria  was 
changed,  and  this  time  the  man  who  had  started  these 
provinces  in  their  career  of  progress  was  brought  back 
as  Viceroy.  Chao  Er  Sun  held  the  reins  for  about  a year 
and  a half  at  what  proved  to  be  the  most  critical  time 
of  Manchuria’s  history.  It  was  well  for  China  and  for 
Manchuria  that  at  this  juncture  there  should  be  in  charge 
of  affairs  in  Moukden  a man  of  such  mental  grasp,  modera- 
tion, firmness,  and  political  insight — a man  who  was 
willing  to  sink  private  opinions  and  feelings  in  the  effort 
to  preserve  peace  and  secure  the  good  of  his  people. 
While  here  as  Governor-General  some  years  before,  Chao 
had  lived  down  opposition  and  prejudice,  and  by  sheer 
honest  work  had  convinced  Manchuria  of  his  worth. 
People  looked  back  to  his  time  as  the  beginning  of  ad- 
vance, and  he  was  enthusiastically  welcomed  on  his 
return.  He  had  many  plans  for  the  development  of 
Manchuria,  and  we  looked  forward  hopefully  to  his  term 
of  office,  but  his  work  during  that  year  and  a half  was 
very  different  from  what  was  expected. 

Ever  since  the  defeat  of  China  by  Japan  in  1895, 
and  the  suppression  of  the  Reform  Movement  at  the 

258 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  259 


coup  d'etat  of  1898,  there  had  been  a growing  unrest 
among  the  youth  of  the  educated  classes  all  over  China 
The  enlightening  education  in  Christian  schools,  taken 
advantage  of  by  ever-increasing  numbers,  prepared  the 
minds  of  many  for  emancipation.  Thousands  of  young 
men  went  to  Japan  and  elsewhere  to  study,  and  returned 
with  their  old  ideas  overthrown.  The  teachings  of 
Kang  Yu  Wei,  Sun  Yat  Sen,  and  others  bore  fruit. 
Those  who  as  impressionable  boys  glowed  with  anger  at 
the  killing  of  the  Reform  Martyrs,  were  now  men,  and 
could  read  the  modern  literature  which  issued  in  a 
constant  stream  from  the  Christian  Literature  Society, 
the  Commercial  Press,  and  other  enterprises.  News- 
papers all  over  the  country  were  doing  their  best  to  lead 
public  opinion  in  new  channels.  In  very  many  hearts 
there  had  developed  a burning  desire  for  freedom  and 
self-government. 

The  standpoint  of  Reformers  had  changed  since  1898. 
Though  one  progressive  decree  after  another  had  been 
issued  by  the  Throne  and  most  of  the  points  in  the  repealed 
Reform  Edicts  had  been  conceded,  and  though  the  Prince 
Regent’s  Government  was  committed  to  a nominally 
constitutional  policy,  Reformers  were  not  content.  They 
now  wanted  more  than  this.  Like  the  sibyl  of  old,  they 
demanded  the  price  of  delay.  It  was  no  longer  enough 
that  the  Imperial  Power  should  graciously  grant  reforms 
to  the  people,  it  was  claimed  that  the  people  themselves 
were  the  supreme  power  who  should  impose  their  will  on 
the  Government. 

In  the  provinces  farther  south  this  was  associated  with 
intense  hatred  of  the  Manchus  and  determination  to  be 
done  with  Imperialism.  The  blind  folly  of  the  Govern- 
ment in  supporting  the  Boxers  and  thus  bringing  upon 
the  country  the  heavy  burden  of  the  Indemnity,  and  the 
loss  of  prestige  involved  in  the  Imperial  flight  from 
Peking,  had  now  their  natural  consequences.  As  long 
as  the  Empress-Dowager  lived,  no  one  cared  nor  dared  to 


260 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


take  action  ; but  her  despotic  hand  was  removed  in  1908. 
When  the  Prince  Regent  showed  himself  willing  to  yield 
slowly  to  the  pressure  of  the  forces  of  progress,  but 
unable  to  devise  any  bold  policy  as  a leader  of  those  forces, 
discontent  and  disloyalty  began  to  seethe  more  openly. 
There  was  no  strong  man  at  the  helm  of  State  to  guide 
the  ship  safely  through  the  storm,  for  the  one  man  who 
had  shown  himself  capable,  Yuan  Shih  Kai , had  been 
dismissed.  One  mistake  was  made  after  another,  both 
in  home  and  in  foreign  policy.  Government  yielded 
where  it  should  have  been  firm,  was  obstinate  where  it 
should  have  yielded.  And  so  came  the  Revolution. 

Manchuria  had  somewhat  different  feelings,  interests, 
and  fears  from  the  rest  of  China.  In  southern  cities 
Manchu  garrisons  reminded  the  people  of  their  conquest, 
and  these  Manchus  dressed  with  a difference,  spoke  with 
a difference,  and  lived  apart  from  the  Chinese.  Here 
in  the  north  the  racial  distinction  was  well-nigh  obliter- 
ated, and  there  was  no  antagonism.  For  some  years 
Manchuria  had  been  fairly  well  governed,  so  that  she 
had  less  cause  than  most  to  complain  of  the  existing 
state  of  things.  Her  great  and  ever-present  fear  was 
from  without.  Few  men  in  South  Manchuria  in  1911 
were  so  ignorant  of  political  movements  as  not  to  realize 
the  danger  of  being  absorbed  by  Japan  as  Korea  had  been. 
“ Empire  or  Republic,  what  does  it  matter  ? ” was  the 
general  feeling  of  the  ordinary  country  farmer ; “ only 
let  us  remain  a part  of  China.”  It  was  therefore  some 
time  before  the  revolutionary  movement  made  itself 
prominently  felt  among  us,  and  when  it  did  it  was  in  the 
cities,  and  chiefly  among  the  student  class. 

The  standard  of  revolt  was  raised  in  Wuchang  on  the 
Yangtze  on  10  October,  1911,  and  events  moved  quickly. 
The  Chinese  newspapers  in  Moukden  gave  full  details 
from  day  to  day,  and  crowds  gathered  round  the  stands 
where  these  papers  are  exhibited  on  the  streets.  The 
greater  part  of  the  city  people  looked  upon  the  Revolution 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  261 


with  more  or  less  favour,  but  few  cared  sufficiently  to  be 
willing  to  fight  for  it.  In  November  emissaries  from  the 
south  began  to  move  about,  and  there  was  a general 
feeling  that  something  was  about  to  happen.  On  the  9th 
a written  notice  was  handed  in  to  the  Chinese  pastor 
at  the  church,  saying  that  the  Manchu  rule  in  Moukden 
was  about  to  cease,  but  that  Christians  need  not  fear, 
as  the  People’s  Army  would  protect  them  and  the 
foreigners,  if  they  did  not  side  with  Government.  A 
session  meeting  was  hurriedly  summoned  and  a dignified 
and  discreet  answer  written,  saying  that  the  Christian 
Church  loved  peace,  and  existed  for  the  highest  good  and 
progress  of  the  whole  people  of  China.  Next  morning 
the  same  messenger,  a young  lad,  called  for  this  reply. 

There  was  much  excitement  throughout  the  city  and 
great  fear  lest  once  more  we  were  to  have  war.  It  was 
generally  felt  that  a great  deal  depended  on  what  attitude 
the  Viceroy  took  up.  He  was  known  to  be  an  Imperialist ; 
and  as  perhaps  half  the  army  would  be  ready  to  support 
that  cause,  while  the  other  half  were  eager  to  don  the 
revolutionary  badge,  Manchuria  would  certainly  be 
plunged  into  war  if  he  decided  against  compromise. 
Something  more  than  mere  bloodshed  was  feared,  the 
general  apprehension  being  as  to  what  action  Japan  and 
Russia  would  take. 

On  10  November  it  became  known  that  the  police,  a 
well-armed  force,  had  received  instructions  that  in  case  of 
any  revolutionary  outbreak  they  were  to  be  neutral, 
devoting  themselves  to  keeping  order  and  preventing 
looting.  The  same  day  a meeting  was  summoned  of  all 
the  leading  officials,  merchants,  and  gentry,  and  a 
Committee  for  the  Preservation  of  Peace  was  proposed, 
with  the  Viceroy  as  President,  which  would  seek  to 
prevent  any  disturbance,  to  maintain  the  neutrality  of 
Manchuria  in  the  strife,  and  to  mediate  between  different 
parties.  It  was  generally  believed  that  Chao  Er  Sun  had 
promised  to  offer  no  resistance  when  the  Revolution  took 


262 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


place,  but  had  urged  its  postponement  until  the  rest  of 
China  should  come  to  a decision,  in  consideration  of  the 
special  circumstances  of  Manchuria. 

This,  however,  did  not  suit  the  more  keen  revolution- 
aries, among  whom  was  one  of  the  leading  generals  of  the 
Army.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  11th  the  generals  met 
in  council,  and  the  story  is  that  he  advocated  following 
the  example  of  other  provinces,  killing  the  Viceroy,  and 
proclaiming  independence  of  the  Imperial  Government. 
It  was  a critical  moment  for  Moukden  and  Manchuria  ; 
but  fortunately  the  others,  especially  General  Chang  Tso 
Lin , opposed  him  and  carried  the  day,  so  it  was  decided 
to  stand  by  Chao  Er  Sun  and  the  Peace  Committee. 
The  Viceroy  had  knowledge  that  this  meeting  was  to  take 
place,  and  so  had  his  devoted  bodyguard  at  the  Govern- 
ment House,  who  were  prepared  to  defend  him  to  their 
last  breath.  When  after  dark  two  officers  arrived  and 
demanded  to  see  the  Viceroy,  the  worst  was  feared,  and 
they  were  politely  told  at  the  gate  that  he  was  not  at 
home. 

“ We  must  give  him  our  message  in  person,”  they  said 
insistently.  “ Where  is  he  ? ” 

“ At  the  Provincial  Assembly  Hall.” 

The  officers  and  their  escort  rode  off  hurriedly  there, 
and  in  great  alarm  the  guard  told  the  Viceroy  what  had 
happened. 

“ I must  follow  them  at  once,”  he  said,  and  ordered  his 
horse.  His  man  prepared  to  accompany  him,  but  he 
stopped  them.  “ I go  on  this  errand  alone.  It  may  be 
that  I shall  not  return.” 

When  he  reached  the  Assembly  Hall,  it  was  to  find 
himself  received  with  acclamation  as  President  of  the 
Peace  Society,  and  to  receive  the  assurances  of  the 
support  of  the  Army.  On  the  14th  the  Committee  for  the 
Preservation  of  Peace  was  formally  announced,  some 
well-known  revolutionaries  being  among  its  office- 
bearers, and  Chao  Er  Sun  President.  After  this  the 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  263 


excitement  subsided  for  a time,  for  the  Viceroy  was 
trusted  and  liked  by  all  classes.  Moukden  recognized 
how  much  it  owed  to  his  wisdom,  tact,  self-effacement, 
and  pluck. 

As  the  winter  wore  on  the  wisdom  of  Chao's  waiting 
policy  became  manifest.  Manchuria  declared  herself 
neutral.  All  went  on  as  usual,  though  with  a constant 
leaven  of  excitement  and  expectation,  secret  plotting, 
and  an  occasional  threatening  of  serious  trouble.  There 
was  no  bloodshed,  and  no  excuse  was  given  to  any  foreign 
Power  to  step  in  to  “pacify  the  country.”  Yuan  Shih 
Kai  had  been  recalled  to  power  by  the  trembling  Imperial 
party,  after  wonderfully  little  bloodshed  the  fighting  in 
the  Yang-tze  valley  had  come  to  an  end,  and  the  Revolu- 
tion was  being  carried  on  by  negotiation  rather  than  by 
the  sword.  Just  as  the  year  closed,  an  Imperial  Edict 
announced  that  the  Throne  would  abide  by  the  decision 
of  the  People  between  a Limited  Monarchy  and  a Re- 
public. 1912  had  not  gone  far  before  it  seemed  likely 
that  abdication  would  be  only  a matter  of  weeks. 

Under  these  circumstances  it  is  difficult  to  see  what 
the  revolutionary  party  in  Manchuria  expected  to  gain 
by  further  plotting  against  the  Viceroy  and  his  Govern- 
ment. There  was  apparently  a feeling  among  them  that 
things  were  going  too  slowly,  that  the  Revolution  would 
be  of  no  account  if  the  same  officials  were  allowed  to 
remain  in  office,  and  that  the  murder  of  some  was  neces- 
sary to  inaugurate  Republican  rule. 

The  general  who  had  been  so  prominently  against 
Chao  Er  Sun  in  November  had  left  Manchuria,  and  the 
one  who  had  now  the  most  important  command  was 
Chang  Tso  Lin , a man  of  only  thirty-six  years  of  age,  but 
already  experienced  in  fighting  and  an  avowed  Imperialist. 
As  a lad  he  had  served  under  General  Tso  at  Ping-yang 
in  the  Chino- Japanese  war.  When  the  Russians  domi- 
nated the  land  he  had  headed  a band  of  banditti  and 
conducted  a systematic  guerilla  warfare.  Later  on  the 


264 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Government,  recognizing  his  military  powers,  had  invited 
him  to  return  to  the  service  of  the  Emperor  and  bring 
his  men  with  him.  His  natural  gifts  found  a place  for  him, 
and  he  was  now  practically  Commander-in-Chief.  To  a 
man  of  his  training,  absolute  power  naturally  seemed  the 
only  right  method  of  government.  It  was  not  to  be  ex- 
pected that  he  should  sympathize  with  the  idea  that 
every  peasant  and  workman  had  the  right  to  say  how  the 
country  should  be  governed.  His  soldiers  worshipped 
him,  for  he  treated  them  well,  justly,  and  generously  ; 
but  they  feared  him  too,  knowing  that  he  had  the  power 
of  life  and  death,  and  would  never  hesitate  to  use  it. 
So  while  Chao  Er  Sun , as  President  of  the  Peace  Com- 
mittee, was  using  every  diplomatic  means  to  keep  the 
two  extreme  parties  quiet,  and  to  delay  action  until  the 
Central  Government  should  come  to  a decision,  Chang 
Tso  Lin , as  custodian  of  the  public  safety,  was  watching 
events  with  an  alert  army. 

No  man  was  better  hated  bv  the  revolutionaries,  and  a 
plot  was  set  on  foot  for  the  murder  of  these  two  men, 
Viceroy  and  General,  and  the  immediate  proclamation 
of  the  Republic.  Many  fine  men  among  the  Republicans 
were  implicated,  specially  one  who  was  an  old  friend  of 
the  hospital  and  who  had  been  prominent  on  the  Peace 
Committee.  General  Chang  seems  to  have  had  secret 
information  as  to  the  treasonable  nature  of  the  meetings 
of  a “ Society  of  Progress  ” which  had  been  started,  and 
without  informing  the  Viceroy  he  set  himself  to  find  out 
and  frustrate  their  plans. 

On  the  night  of  24  January,  a little  more  than  a week 
before  the  day  they  had  fixed  for  the  Moukden  Revolution, 
the  General  took  action.  He  struck  decisively  and  without 
warning.  Formal  arrests,  accusations,  and  trials  seemed 
to  him  superfluous.  A number  of  the  leaders  of  the 
revolutionary  plot  were  seized  as  they  left  a secret 
meeting  and  killed  on  the  street  by  his  soldiers.  The 
member  of  the  Peace  Committee  above  mentioned  was 


GENERAL  CHANG  TSO  LIN 
“ He  was  watching  events  with  an  alert  army.” 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  265 


one  of  these.  His  house  was  also  entered  and  searched, 
and  his  brother  was  killed  there.  Many  incriminating 
documents  were  found,  his  own  commission  from  the 
revolutionary  leaders  further  south,  letters  regarding 
help  promised,  details  of  the  plan  for  the  rising  to  take 
place  simultaneously  in  various  parts  of  Moukden,  a list 
of  those  to  be  killed  including  the  Viceroy,  Chang  Tso  Lin , 
and  another  General,  a note  of  moneys  received,  and, 
most  serious  of  all  for  those  concerned,  a list  of  fifteen 
hundred  names  of  Moukden  supporters. 

When  morning  dawned  it  was  whispered  that  General 
Chang  Tso  Lin's  men  had  entered  compounds  and  killed 
people  in  the  night,  but  no  one  dared  to  criticize  or  ask 
questions.  The  next  few  days  were  a time  of  terror. 
Reports  were  naturally  exaggerated,  but  several  score 
must  have  been  killed,  mostly  in  the  night-time.  It  was 
said  to  be  unsafe  to  be  out  after  dark,  and  certainly 
soldiers  were  at  every  turn,  and  challenged  all  passers-by. 
As  the  wearing  of  a queue  was  originally  a Manchu  custom 
and  a sign  of  submission  to  Manchu  rule,  almost  every 
student  in  Moukden  had  cut  his  hair  ; but  now  not  a 
queueless  man  was  to  be  seen  on  the  streets  even  in 
broad  daylight.  The  Viceroy  was  said  to  know  nothing 
of  what  was  happening  until  the  third  day,  and  then  he 
ordered  the  Black  List  of  revolutionary  names  to  be 
instantly  burned. 

During  this  time  there  was  much  fear  among  the 
assistants  and  dispensers  in  the  hospital.  Some  days 
previously  we  had  had  a call  from  a young  man,  who 
had  once  been  a hospital  student,  but  had  not  proved 
satisfactory  and  had  left  under  a cloud.  He  now  returned, 
dressed  very  smartly  in  up-to-date  foreign  garb,  and 
with  great  importance  announced  that  he  had  come 
from  the  Red  Cross  Society  of  the  Chinese  revolution- 
aries in  Dalny,  to  ask  me  to  be  their  President.  There 
was  a rich  Chinese  gentleman  there,  he  said,  who  would 
give  a large  sum  to  the  society  if  I agreed.  He  invited  all 


266 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  hospital  men  to  join  also,  and  they  would  all  work 
together  when  Moukden  was  “ taken  ” ; but  the  assistants 
agreed  with  me  in  refusing  to  have  anything  to  do  with  his 
so-called  Red  Cross  Society.  I counselled  him  to  get 
away  as  fast  as  possible  before  he  was  arrested,  and  to 
leave  Moukden  alone,  and  he  escaped  just  in  time  to  save 
his  neck.  Then  my  assistant,  Dr.  Wang,  was  privately 
informed  that  his  own  name  and  those  of  two  others 
were  on  the  Black  List  found  in  the  conspirator’s  house, 
having  no  doubt  been  given  in  by  that  unwelcome  visitor. 
It  was  several  days  before  any  of  them  dared  to  leave  the 
compound. 

A fortnight  later  was  issued  the  Imperial  Proclamation 
of  Abdication,  and  China  became  a Republic. 

During  all  January  and  February  and  on  into  March 
General  Chang  Tso  Lin's  men  patrolled  the  city  every 
night.  A band  occupied  our  own  Bund , or  terrace,  and 
challenged  us  if  we  happened  to  cross  to  the  hospital  after 
dark.  One  night  a man  attempted  to  slip  home  from  the 
next-door  house  under  the  shadow  of  the  wall  without  dis- 
turbing them,  but  suddenly  a bayonet  was  at  his  chest  and 
he  was  summoned  to  stand.  They  were  quite  friendly  to 
us,  and  indeed  were  placed  there  to  ensure  our  safety. 
The  absence  of  any  attack  on  foreigners  in  any  part  of 
China  during  the  Revolution  is  remarkable.  No  less  so 
is  the  fact  that  no  member  of  the  Imperial  House  suffered 
in  any  way,  and  that  the  Republic  was  actually  pro- 
claimed by  Imperial  Edict. 

Before  the  Revolution  began,  Chao  Er  Sun  was  a strong, 
vigorous  man,  sixty-nine  years  of  age,  but  youthful  for 
his  years,  with  a bright,  cheery  purposefulness  which  gave 
one  confidence  in  the  years  of  usefulness  before  him.  Six 
months  later  he  was  an  old  man.  The  terrible  strain, 
personal  and  diplomatic,  broke  him  down.  He  never 
knew  when  his  life  would  be  attempted,  and  lived  im- 
mured in  the  Government  Buildings.  He  was  separated 
from  his  family,  who  had  been  sent  away  out  of  danger. 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  267 


The  fate  of  his  brother  was  always  before  him,  murdered 
by  his  own  soldiers  in  his  Viceroyalty  of  Szechuan.  The 
deposition  of  the  Imperial  Family,  to  whom  he  cherished 
a strong  personal  loyalty,  was  a sore  grief,  and  he  was 
convinced  that  the  people  were  not  able  to  govern  them- 
selves as  a Republic.  Yet  he  stuck  to  his  post  and  re- 
mitted no  effort  to  save  Manchuria  from  the  threatened 
anarchy  which  would  be  fatal  to  her.  It  must  have  been 
very  bitter  to  him  to  lower  the  Dragon  Flag — how  much 
easier  to  resign  and  get  away  from  it  all ! — but  on  the 
appointed  day  in  February  he  was  loyal  to  the  Peace  of 
Manchuria  as  he  had  been  loyal  to  the  Emperor,  and  the 
five-colour  flag  of  the  Republic  waved  over  the  Govern- 
ment Buildings. 

Strange  to  say,  the  fighting  wrhich  took  place  in  Man- 
churia in  connection  with  the  Revolution  was  mostly 
after  the  Republic  had  been  proclaimed.  To  many 
ardent  young  Republicans  peace  was  of  little  consequence, 
they  wanted  a Revolution,  an  overturning  of  Govern- 
ment. The  Republican  flag,  indeed,  gradually  replaced 
the  Dragon  over  every  yamen,  and  officially  all  magis- 
trates were  now  in  the  employ  of  the  “ People’s  Realm,” 
as  the  Chinese  call  a Republic.  Some  of  these  magistrates 
were  certainly  slow  to  acknowledge  the  change. 

“ They  are  all  false  ! ” denounced  hotly  the  revolu- 
tionary bigots ; “ they  are  not  at  heart  loyal  to  the 
Republic.  Turn  them  out  ! ” So  here  and  there  local 
rebellions  took  place,  bands  calling  themselves  “ The 
People’s  Army  ” were  raised  and  officered  by  hot-headed 
youths,  and  with  the  help  of  local  brigands  fought  against 
soldiers  in  the  pay  of  the  Republic. 

Early  in  the  year  I had  been  asked  to  take  steps  in 
forming  a branch  of  the  Red  Cross  Society.  A meeting 
of  the  leading  men  in  Moukden  was  summoned,  to  whom 
were  explained  the  objects  and  methods  of  the  society. 
The  Viceroy  consented  to  be  Patron,  and  placed  a con- 
siderable sum  of  money  at  its  disposal.  A small  Executive 


268 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Committee  of  Chinese  was  formed  and  I was  appointed 
Director.  In  this  connection  I had  an  interesting  inter- 
view with  General  Chang  Tso  Lin , and  found  him  most 
cordial.  A number  of  his  wounded  soldiers  were  in 
hospital  at  the  time,  and  he  knew  personally  each  in- 
dividual, and  inquired  about  them  by  name.  He  wel- 
comed the  Red  Cross  Society,  promising  to  give  every 
assistance  and  facility.  “ For,”  he  said  darkly,  “ much 
blood  is  about  to  flow  in  Manchuria.”  This  gloomy  fore- 
cast was  not  fulfilled.  The  Viceroy’s  conciliatory  attitude 
prevailed,  and  there  were  but  skirmishes  and  risings 
which  came  to  nothing. 

One  of  these  was  at  Kaiyuan,  where  a company  of  the 
“ People’s  Army  ” entered  the  town  and  overpowered  the 
yamen.  We  were  wired  to  for  assistance  for  the  wounded, 
and  the  Red  Cross  Society  was  able  to  arrange  that  Dr. 
West  water,  of  Liaoyang,  and  some  of  our  Moukden 
assistants  should  go  up  at  once  with  a military  guard. 
Officials  and  soldiers  were  much  impressed  with  this 
prompt  Red  Cross  aid.  Fortunately  it  was  not  needed 
for  long,  the  revolutionaries  dispersed,  their  leaders 
escaped  south  by  train,  many  of  the  robbers  in  their  pay 
enlisted  as  Government  soldiers,  and  the  wounded  were 
conveyed  to  various  mission  hospitals. 

While  the  people  throughout  China,  with  the  exception 
of  a few  young  zealots,  were  thankful  that  the  Revolution 
had  been  comparatively  so  bloodless — being  in  this  respect 
a contrast  to  all  other  Revolutions — there  were  many 
in  the  Army  who  felt  themselves  defrauded  thereby  of 
their  rights.  According  to  the  most  ancient  customs  of 
all  nations  under  the  sun,  loot  was  the  privilege  of  a 
conquering  force.  An  army  may  be  organized  on  modern 
lines,  but  it  is  not  easy  to  eradicate  that  idea,  as  was 
proved  by  the  amount  of  loot  taken  by  the  Allied  Troops 
at  the  Boxer  time  in  Peking  and  elsewhere.  As  there  had 
been  little  fighting,  there  was  little  loot ; but  this  omission 
some  of  the  regiments  proceeded  to  rectify.  It  began  in 


MOUKDEN  AND  THE  REVOLUTION  269 


Peking  within  a fortnight  of  the  Abdication,  when  a 
regiment  mutinied  and  looted  boldly.  During  the  next 
six  months  similar  risings  took  place  in  one  city  after 
another,  some  being  occasioned  by  non-payment  of 
soldiers’  wages.  Moukden’s  turn  came  in  June,  when 
over  a thousand  men  mutinied,  not  of  General  Chang  Tso 
Lin's  command.  The  authorities  were  warned  in  time, 
and  had  the  city  gates  hurriedly  closed,  so  that  the  looters 
had  to  content  themselves  with  banks  and  shops  in  the 
north  suburb.  The  prompt  action  of  General  Chang  Tso 
Lin  saved  the  situation,  for  he  called  out  his  men  against 
the  mutineers,  and  quelled  them  after  a short,  sharp  fight. 
A good  many  of  the  wounded  were  brought  to  our 
hospital. 

In  the  autumn,  when  the  Republic  was  an  established 
fact,  a Red  Cross  Conference  was  held  in  Shanghai,  each 
province  being  invited  to  send  representatives.  I was 
asked  by  Chao  Er  Sun  to  represent  Manchuria.  During 
my  absence  his  resignation,  which  for  some  time  he  had 
been  pressing  on  the  Central  Government,  was  at  last 
accepted.  He  was  worn  out ; Manchuria  had  been  safely 
brought  through  its  most  critical  time  ; and  now  he 
might  well  retire.  So  passed  from  the  stage  of  public  eye 
one  of  the  most  valuable  servants  China  has  ever  had. 


XXVIII 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDICAL  COLLEGE 


“ If  you  are  planning  for  ten  years,  plant  trees  ; 

If  you  are  planning  for  a hundred  years,  plant  men.” 

Chinese  Saying. 

IN  the  spring  of  1911  the  building  of  the  Moukden 
Medical  College  was  much  delayed  by  the  Plague 
epidemic,  but  at  last  it  was  possible  to  begin  it  as  well  as 
houses  for  the  staff.  The  Viceroy,  Chao  Er  Sun , was 
greatly  interested  in  the  progress  made  during  the  four 
years  since  he  had  opened  the  hospital,  and  cordially 
agreed  to  be  patron  of  the  College,  promising  to  open  it 
also  when  the  time  came. 

During  the  autumn  the  unfinished  building  was 
accidentally  threatened  with  destruction.  One  night  in 
November  we  were  roused  about  midnight  by  the  un- 
accustomed sound  of  a loud  blowing  of  policemen’s 
whistles,  and  the  racing  of  feet  down  the  road  beside  us. 
Learning  that  fire  had  broken  out  in  the  Industrial 
Buildings  used  for  the  Plague  Conference,  I lost  no  time 
in  reaching  the  spot.  A strong  south  wind  was  blowing, 
and  the  fire  raged  unchecked,  so  that  soon  all  the  four 
blocks,  unfortunately  united  by  a covered  way,  were  in 
flames.  There  were  some  pumps  and  fire  apparatus,  but 
they  were  rusty  and  would  not  work,  so  buckets  had  to  be 
used.  We  got  the  men  to  centre  their  efforts  on  isolating 
the  fire  and  thus  saving  the  surrounding  buildings.  A 
double  fine  was  formed  down  to  the  river,  and  a constant 
though  limited  supply  of  water  furnished  by  bucket 
in  the  old  Chinese  fashion.  The  well  in  the  compound 

270 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDICAL  COLLEGE  271 


was  also  kept  busy,  and  at  last,  when  the  danger  was 
almost  over,  the  pumps  began  to  work.  For  a time  it 
seemed  as  if  nothing  could  save  a building  used  as  an 
office,  just  to  the  west  of  those  already  burning.  If  that 
went,  then  close  by  was  a wooden  outhouse.  Separated 
from  the  outhouse  by  a narrow  road  was  the  College 
with  its  wooden  scaffolding  still  standing,  and  its  joiners’ 
shed  full  of  shavings  and  wood.  Close  to  the  College 
was  the  hospital.  For  a couple  of  hours  that  office  roof 
was  drenched  with  water  from  the  line  of  buckets,  and 
again  and  again  flames  were  put  out  where  they  had 
taken  hold.  In  the  College  compound  our  own  men 
worked  with  desperate  eagerness,  soaking  the  woodwork 
and  extinguishing  repeated  small  fires  among  the  shavings. 
Had  the  wind  veered  round  even  slightly,  our  position 
would  have  been  most  precarious.  Gradually  the  danger 
passed,  the  fire  ceased  to  spread,  and  at  last  died  down. 

The  College  is  a compact  and  substantial  building, 
consisting  of  three  stories  and  basement,  on  a commanding 
site  conspicuous  from  some  distance.  The  western  half 
with  the  tower  forms  a Memorial  to  Dr.  Jackson,  the 
eastern  to  Mrs.  Bishop,  the  distinguished  traveller.  The 
steam  heating,  electric  lighting,  water  installation, 
fittings,  furnishings,  laboratory,  and  other  equipment 
were  supplied  directly  from  the  College  funds.  It  was 
arranged  that  all  the  students,  not  to  exceed  fifty,  should 
sleep  on  the  premises,  the  top  story  being  devoted  to 
dormitories,  until  such  time  as  a separate  block  could  be 
erected. 

Accommodation  was  thus  prepared  for  the  Medical 
College,  which  was  announced  to  open  its  doors  early  in 
1912.  A more  important  point  still  lay  in  doubt : what 
supply  of  students  would  there  be  ? We  knew  that  large 
numbers  wanted  to  study  medicine,  but  could  they  face 
the  Entrance  Examination  ? All  the  years  of  my  life  in 
Moukden  I had  dreamed  of  the  time  when  medical 
education  worthy  of  the  name  Christian  should  be 


272 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


carried  on  here,  when  we  would  train  our  colleagues 
and  successors  and  make  sure  that  our  work  would  not 
die  with  us.  Now  a building  stood  ready  to  realize  these 
dreams — what  was  to  be  the  outcome  ? 

Intimations  of  the  Entrance  Examination  were  sent  to 
all  the  Chinese  newspapers  and  Mission  and  Government 
schools,  giving  details  of  the  subjects  and  conditions  of 
examination,  length  and  cost  of  the  medical  course,  and 
asking  candidates  to  send  in  their  names  in  November. 
All  the  papers  refused  to  charge  for  insertion  of  this 
intimation,  and  the  principal  Chinese  daily  in  Moukden 
called  attention  to  it  in  an  appreciative  leading  article. 
Before  November  came,  however,  the  Revolution  had 
begun,  and  the  student  class,  especially  in  Government 
institutions,  were  greatly  agitated  ; and  it  was  from 
Government  Middle  Schools  that  we  expected  to  draw  a 
large  proportion  of  our  candidates.  It  was  therefore 
with  some  anxiety  that  the  month  of  November  was 
entered  upon.  As  the  days  went  on,  applications  came 
in  by  dozens  and  scores,  and  270  names  were  received 
before  the  lists  were  closed.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
in  normal  times  the  numbers  would  have  been  much 
larger. 

During  the  winter  the  unrest  increased  so  much  that 
there  was  great  uncertainty  as  to  how  many  of  these 
candidates  would  be  able  actually  to  come  forward  to  the 
Entrance  Examination,  to  be  held  on  25,  26  January, 
in  thirteen  different  centres  all  over  Manchuria.  All 
Government  schools  had  been  closed  in  December  owing 
to  the  political  situation,  and  the  young  men  scattered 
to  their  homes.  Business  was  almost  at  a standstill,  so 
that  many  who  formerly  could  easily  afford  a College 
course  were  now  uncertain  what  the  future  might  hold. 
Brigands  were  numerous,  making  the  country  roads 
unsafe  and  communication  difficult.  In  spite  of  all  this, 
142  men  were  examined.  Five  of  the  following  subjects 
were  required  : Chinese,  Arithmetic,  Geography,  History, 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDIC  AL  COLLEGE 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDICAL  COLLEGE  273 


Higher  Chinese,  Algebra,  English,  Chemistry,  Physics. 
All  these  except  the  Chinese  Classics  have  been  introduced 
into  the  curriculum  within  the  last  six  years. 

In  Moukden  alone  seventy-three  men  came  forward, 
and  it  was  interesting  to  observe  that  more  than  half  had 
discarded  the  queue.  It  was  while  this  examination  was 
going  on  that  the  sudden  blow  was  struck  at  the  Revolu- 
tionary plot  in  the  city.  On  our  second  morning  the 
students  were  excitedly  discussing  the  summary  execu- 
tions of  the  night.  By  the  time  the  examination  was  over 
a general  terror  was  abroad,  no  one  knew  who  was 
suspected,  and  those  without  queues  were  afraid  to  show 
themselves.  Had  it  been  held  two  days  later,  but  few  of 
the  men  would  have  dared  to  appear. 

Of  the  142  men  examined,  the  fifty  highest  were  ad- 
mitted, nearly  three-quarters  of  whom  were  Christians. 
A formal  opening  of  the  College  could  not  be  arranged,  the 
political  situation  making  it  impossible  for  the  Viceroy 
to  appear  at  any  public  function  ; and  the  beginning  of 
teaching  was  postponed  until  things  were  more  settled. 
On  28  March,  1912,  the  students  were  gathered  into  the 
College,  classes  were  quietly  opened,  and  work  begun. 

About  the  same  time  as  we  were  organizing  this 
Medical  College,  the  authorities  of  the  South  Manchuria 
Railway  (i.e.  Japanese  line  from  Dalny  to  Kwancheng- 
tze)  also  arranged  to  begin  medical  teaching  in  connection 
with  their  Railway  Hospital  near  the  Moukden  station. 
Since  then  a building  has  been  erected,  and  is  being  added 
to.  The  teaching  is  in  Japanese,  the  students  being 
largely  Japanese,  with  an  admixture  of  Chinese.  A 
school  is  associated  with  the  College,  to  teach  Japanese 
and  German  to  intending  Chinese  students. 

Our  teaching  staff  at  the  outset  was  somewhat  limited. 
It  had  been  arranged  in  the  previous  year  that  Dr.  D.  D. 
Muir,  of  the  United  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  who  had 
been  fifteen  years  in  Manchuria,  should  be  associated 
with  me  in  all  the  work  of  the  Medical  Mission  and  College. 


274 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


His  presence  and  energy  were  of  vital  importance,  both 
in  the  carrying  through  of  our  plans  and  in  the  opening 
and  conducting  of  the  College.  We  were  also  joined  by 
another  man  of  experience  and  skill,  Dr.  Ellerbek,  of  the 
Danish  Mission.  Now,  in  the  autumn  of  1913,  our  staff 
numbers  eight — seven  medical  men  and  a qualified 
chemist,  besides  medical  missionaries  in  other  centres, 
who  will  give  courses  of  lectures.  More  are  needed,  both 
foreign  and  Chinese,  before  we  can  consider  ourselves 
fully  manned. 

The  close  proximity  of  College  and  hospital  is  most 
important  for  clinical  teaching,  and  also  enables  the  same 
staff  to  work  both  institutions.  We  have  now  110  beds, 
but  this  is  quite  inadequate  for  teaching  purposes,  as  well 
as  insufficient  to  supply  the  demand  for  indoor  treatment. 
A couple  of  years  ago  we  were  much  concerned  that  the 
hospital,  hemmed  in  by  College,  public  roads,  and 
Government  ground,  had  no  possibility  of  expansion.  I 
brought  the  matter  before  Government,  and  they  pre- 
sented to  the  hospital  a strip  of  ground  directly  behind 
it.  Here  we  planned  to  erect  a two-story  building 
which  would  accommodate  at  least  fifty  additional 
patients.  Part  of  this  is  being  built  during  1913  with  the 
help  of  fees  received  from  foreign  patients.  The  Moukden 
hospital  has  always  held  to  the  principle  of  giving  healing 
free  in  our  general  work.  This  has  stimulated  voluntary 
giving  much  beyond  anything  we  might  have  gained  by 
charging,  and  has  maintained  the  purely  benevolent 
character  of  our  Medical  Mission  work.  Now,  however, 
there  is  a demand  from  well-to-do  patients  for  treatment 
in  private  wards,  for  which  they  are  ready  to  pay.  We 
are  making  provision  for  these,  and  in  this  way  we  shall 
be  helped  to  meet  our  ever-increasing  expenditure. 

We  aim  at  having  a lady  nurse  as  matron  of  the 
hospital,  to  superintend  the  entire  nursing  organization, 
and  to  train  male  nurses.  Only  so  can  we  hope  to  raise 
the  standard  of  our  nursing  efficiency. 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDICAL  COLLEGE  275 


Our  out-patients  are  more  numerous  than  ever  before, 
forty-five  thousand  visits  having  been  paid  to  the  dis 
pensary  in  the  last  twelve  months,  and  this  affords  a 
valuable  field  for  clinical  instruction.  The  accommodation 
and  arrangements,  however,  which  were  suitable  when 
all  was  under  one  man,  become  utterly  inadequate  when 
there  are  several  doctors  and  many  students.  Extensive 
alterations  have  therefore  been  made,  and  we  have 
now  three  consulting  - rooms,  surgical,  medical,  and 
ophthalmic,  besides  a large  surgical  dressing-room  and 
an  electrical  room,  so  that  four  doctors  may  see  out- 
patients simultaneously,  and  students  may  attend  in 
relays  to  learn  their  work  practically.  Our  one  operating- 
room  too  was  insufficient.  We  have  now  two  bright, 
modern  operating-theatres,  with  galleries  for  students, 
expense  being  met  by  a legacy  from  an  old  friend. 

The  College  course  is  a five-years  one,  comprising  all 
the  ordinary  subjects  of  the  medical  course  in  our  home 
Universities.  Our  Class  and  Professional  Examinations 
are  as  near  as  possible  equal  to  the  home  standard,  and 
the  diplomas  given  on  graduation  will  have  the  Govern- 
ment Imprimatur  upon  them.  English  is  also  taught 
throughout  the  course,  as  our  men  must  be  able  to  read 
English  medical  text-books,  if  they  are  to  keep  up  in  their 
profession  after  graduation.  At  our  First  Professional 
Examinations,  the  Board  of  Education  in  Moukden  at 
our  request  sent  a representative  to  be  present,  and  the 
Government  are  very  ready  to  further  the  interests  of  the 
College  in  every  way. 

With  our  limited  staff,  it  is  impossible  to  take  in  a 
new  class  of  students  each  year.  Our  second  group  of 
men  will  be  admitted  in  January,  1914,  the  standard  of 
entrance  being  considerably  raised.  It  is  expected  that  a 
new  dormitory  block  will  be  built  in  spring,  so  that  the 
present  building  may  be  devoted  entirely  to  teaching 
purposes. 

The  training  of  fully  qualified  medical  men  has  thus 


276 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


begun  in  Moukden,  and  prospects  open  out  before  our 
students  of  lives  of  rich  usefulness.  My  experience  con- 
vinces me  that  the  Chinese  are  specially  adapted  to  make 
good  physicians  and  surgeons.  Their  mental  powers  are 
of  a high  order,  they  readily  assimilate  scientific  teaching, 
they  have  remarkably  retentive  memories,  they  are 
accustomed  to  observe  such  details  as  are  of  the  first  im- 
portance in  diagnosis,  they  are  neat-handed,  and  they 
make  good  operators.  Our  Western  methods  of  study  are, 
of  course,  foreign  to  them,  and  one  of  our  chief  initial 
difficulties  is  that  many  of  our  students  have  yet  to 
acquire  the  habit  of  steady  concentrated  thought  and 
continuous  application. 

Among  Chinese  graduates  there  is  an  unfortunate 
tendency  to  rest  content  with  what  they  have  learned, 
to  allow  themselves  to  stagnate  mentally,  to  become  more 
absorbed  in  money-making  than  in  scientific  advance. 
It  remains  for  us  to  create  among  our  men  that  pride  in 
their  profession,  that  readiness  to  sacrifice  much  for  it, 
that  altruistic  desire  to  serve,  which  are  so  conspicuous 
in  our  own  land. 

The  pronounced  Christian  character  of  the  College  is 
no  drawback  in  the  eyes  of  the  general  public.  It  is 
recognized  that  Christianity  and  Healing  have  a natural 
affinity,  and  the  crowds  of  non-Christians  who  have 
applied  and  are  applying  for  admittance  prove  that  our 
religion  is  regarded  with  friendliness,  or  at  least  in- 
difference. When  our  first  men  graduate  in  1917,  there 
will  be  many  careers  open  to  them.  We  hope  to  retain 
several  on  the  staff  of  the  College,  and  expect  that  in 
time  their  usefulness  will  be  equal  to  that  of  the  foreign 
teachers.  Some  will  become  house  physicians  and 
surgeons  in  our  own  and  other  hospitals.  Others  will 
enter  the  Government  services,  where  there  is  now  a 
great  demand  for  fully  qualified  men.  * The  Chinese 
Christian  Church  has  already  expressed  a desire  for 
medical  missionaries  of  her  own.  And  there  are  endless 


THE  MOUKDEN  MEDICAL  COLLEGE  277 


openings  for  far  more  men  than  we  can  hope  to  supply,  in 
private  practice  all  over  the  country. 

If  our  men  go  forth  to  live  and  to  heal,  realizing  that 
they  do  both  in  the  service  of  God  as  well  as  man,  they 
will  do  much  to  hasten  the  growth  of  the  Kingdom  of 
God  in  Manchuria. 


XXIX 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 

H.E.  Chang  Hsi  Lan,  Governor,  1912 

“ Leave  thy  low- vaulted  past  ! 

Let  each  new  temple,  nobler  than  the  last. 
Shut  thee  from  heaven  with  a dome  more  vast, 
Till  thou  at  length  art  free.” 


ITH  the  Republic  come  new  titles  and  new  regula- 


tions in  Government  affairs.  Our  Viceroy  becomes 
a Military  Governor  or  Tu-tu , and  his  power  is  much 
limited.  Chao  Er  Sun's  successor  is  a very  old  friend  of 
mine.  During  my  second  year  in  Moukden  I was  called 
in  to  see  a child  who  was  dying,  of  the  family  of  Chang  Hsi 
Lan , a minor  official  in  the  city.  I could  do  nothing  for 
the  little  patient,  but  the  simple  fact  that  I said  he  could 
not  live  till  morning  and  that  I was  right,  established 
my  reputation  in  that  household.  We  soon  became 
friendly,  and  Mr.  Chang  and  members  of  his  family  used 
to  drop  in  to  tea  in  quite  informal  fashion.  Afterwards 
he  held  office  in  various  places,  and  for  years  I would  lose 
sight  of  him,  but  whenever  he  returned  to  Moukden  we 
renewed  our  friendly  intercourse.  In  all  his  appointments 
he  approved  himself  to  the  people,  and  when  his  nomina- 
tion as  Tu-tu  was  known,  it  was  a popular  one.  The 
Governor  in  this  frontier  province  holds  no  easy  post, 
but  peace  has  been  maintained  and  entanglements 
avoided. 

Manchuria  has  her  own  special  hopes  and  fears  which 
the  other  provinces  hardly  realize.  In  her  eyes  “ the 


O.  W.  Holmes. 


278 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 


279 


integrity  of  China  ” means  her  own  inalienability.  Thibet 
and  Mongolia  are  a different  question.  Manchuria  is  one 
in  language,  one  in  interests,  one  in  loyalty,  one  in 
government  with  the  rest  of  China  ; and  no  greater  blow 
could  be  struck  her  people  than  to  allow  any  foreign 
power  to  dominate  them.  The  casual  traveller  by  rail 
receives  quite  a false  impression.  From  the  Siberian 
border  he  travels  by  Russian  train  through  a barren  and 
sparsely  populated  region,  and  concludes  that  this  is 
practically  Russian,  lost  to  China.  Then  he  changes  to 
a well-appointed  Japanese  train  and  becomes  still  more 
convinced  that  it  is  only  a matter  of  time,  that  indeed 
the  whole  of  Southern  Manchuria  is  already  Japanese 
in  all  but  the  name.  The  railway  does  not  follow  the 
line  of  population,  and  few  Chinese  live  in  proximity 
to  it,  so  he  sees  nothing  of  the  populous  villages  and 
towns,  mile  after  mile,  where  neither  Russian  nor 
J apanese  influence  or  authority  is  known  ; he  hears 
nothing  of  the  civic  life  of  cities,  the  educational  develop- 
ments, the  far-reaching  activities  of  Government,  with 
which  foreign  countries  have  no  touching-point.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  Manchuria  since  the  Revolution  is  more 
intensely  Chinese  than  ever. 

Next  to  the  Tu-tu,  the  most  powerful  man  in  Moukden 
at  present  is  General  Chang  Tso  Lin , whose  well-known 
severity  towards  those  who  oppose  him  has  done  much 
to  preserve  peace.  By  the  people  he  is  at  once  feared 
and  trusted  to  save  the  country  from  any  real  danger. 
As  long  as  the  Emperor  was  on  the  throne,  he  strenuously 
resisted  any  attempt  to  raise  the  standard  of  Revolution, 
and  would  have  fought  against  it  even  had  no  other 
General  sided  with  him.  Now  that  the  Republic  has 
taken  the  place  of  the  Empire,  he  stands  loyally  by  it, 
recognizing  Yuan  Shih  Kai  as  a man  whose  lead  it  is 
possible  to  follow. 

In  consequence  of  what  he  had  seen  in  the  hospital, 
General  Chang  resolved  to  organize  a medical  service  in 


280 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


his  army,  and  made  known  that  he  wanted  a number 
of  doctors.  Applications  of  all  kinds  poured  in,  but  one 
day  in  spring  he  came  to  me  in  some  exasperation. 

“ Will  you  get  me  a foreign-trained  Chinese  doctor 
whom  I can  trust  ? ” he  said.  “ I’ll  give  any  salary,  but 
I want  a good  man.  I don’t  believe  these  fellows  know 
anything  about  it,  and  I can’t  trust  one  of  them.  If  you 
could  get  me  a man  like  your  own  Dr.  Wang,  I should  be 
well  satisfied.”  I promised  to  do  my  best  to  secure  one, 
but  it  was  not  easy. 

Dr.  Wang  had  been  my  right-hand  man  for  years.  He 
had  come  to  me  straight  from  school,  twenty-one  years 
before,  and  since  the  Boxer  time  had  been  my  chief 
assistant,  on  whom  I relied  in  all  things.  Indeed,  he 
had  been  doing  as  much  and  as  important  work  as  a 
foreign  missionary,  and  his  quiet,  consistent  goodness 
had  a powerful  influence.  After  the  Russo-Japanese  war 
the  Government  had  conferred  on  him  an  official 
“ button  ” of  the  fifth  civil  grade,  for  services  rendered 
to  the  Chinese  wounded,  and  throughout  Moukden  he 
was  well  known  and  respected.  He  had  been  repeatedly 
pressed  to  go  into  other  service  with  a large  salary.  A 
few  years  ago  an  offer  was  made  him  through  myself 
which  meant  £150  instead  of  the  £45  a year  which  we 
were  able  to  give  him.  I left  it  entirely  to  himself  to 
decide,  but  he  would  not  even  take  an  hour  to  think 
it  over. 

“ Doctor,”  he  said,  “ you  have  been  my  master  and 
teacher  since  I was  a child.  All  I know  I owe  to  you. 
As  long  as  you  need  me  I will  never  leave  you.” 

Since  then,  however,  circumstances  have  changed. 
Now  that  there  are  so  many  foreign  doctors  in  connection 
with  our  College  and  hospital,  much  of  the  work  which 
Dr.  Wang  used  to  do  must  of  necessity  be  undertaken 
by  them  ; and  this  will  be  increasingly  so,  as  medical 
students  come  to  the  hospital  for  practical  training. 
In  addition  to  this,  the  students  in  the  Medical  College 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 


281 


are  going  through  a much  more  thorough  scientific  course 
than  Dr.  Wang  had,  and  in  a few  years  they  will  be  ready 
to  act  as  house  surgeons  and  physicians.  He  saw  these 
things  clearly,  and  spoke  of  them  to  me.  I had  failed  to 
get  a suitable  man  for  General  Chang,  so  I laid  his  offer 
before  Dr.  Wang,  who  after  some  deliberation  decided 
to  accept  it.  He  has  been  given  higher  rank  than  any 
medical  man  has  ever  had  in  Manchuria,  something 
equivalent  to  a Surgeon-General,  and  has  a free  hand  to 
organize  a provincial  Army  Medical  Service,  being 
responsible  to  General  Chang  alone.  The  powerful 
influence  which  can  be  exercised  in  such  a position  by  a 
man  of  sterling  Christian  character  like  Dr.  Wang  can 
hardly  be  overestimated. 

Some  days  later  General  Chang  called  on  me  and 
thanked  me  most  warmly  for  giving  him  so  excellent  a 
man.  In  the  course  of  conversation  the  use  of  the  X-rays 
was  mentioned,  which  greatly  interested  him.  He 
wanted  to  have  a demonstration  at  once,  but  was  dis- 
appointed to  hear  that  we  could  not  afford  to  buy  it. 

“ Get  it  at  once,”  he  said,  “ and  I will  pay  for  it.” 
So  a complete  X-ray  outfit  is  now  on  its  way  to  Moukden, 
which  will  be  invaluable  for  both  hospital  and  College, 
and  I have  a cheque  from  the  General  for  $2000  (about 
£170)  to  cover  the  expense. 

The  history  of  the  Republic  has  so  far  been  a troubled 
one,  but  only  echoes  of  the  bloody  strife  in  the  Yang-tze 
valley  reached  Manchuria.  Here  all  remained  quiet, 
though  there  is  hardly  a man  in  the  city  but  has  his  own 
opinion  as  to  the  political  situation — changed  times 
indeed  from  the  old  days  when  few  knew  or  cared  what 
was  happening.  It  is  well  for  China  that,  in  the  chaotic 
unrest  which  followed  the  establishment  of  the  Republic, 
a strong  man  was  at  the  helm  of  the  State.  That  he 
should  have  right  political  views  and  devise  permanently 
wise  measures  was  of  far  less  importance  than  that  he 
should  be  powerful  enough  to  guide  the  nation  through 


282 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


the  storms,  and  save  it  from  the  anarchy  which  would 
certainly  have  resulted  had  he  failed.  The  statesmanship 
and  firmness  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai  have  prevailed  : the 
realm  remains  one,  North  and  South  are  to  have  the 
opportunity  to  amalgamate,  a permanent  Government  is 
established  and  recognized  by  the  Powers. 

We  still  watch  anxiously  for  unexpected  troubles  which 
may  arise,  but  the  authorities  are  apparently  prepared 
to  cope  with  any  opposition.  A period  of  rest  may  be 
anticipated  which  will  give  the  Government  a chance  to 
place  the  administration  on  a firm  basis.  President 
Yuan  Shih  Kai  has  shown  himself  just  the  man  needed 
for  the  crisis.  It  now  remains  for  him  and  the  capable 
Cabinet  he  has  gathered  round  him,  to  pacify  the  land 
and  to  cut  the  ground  from  under  the  feet  of  revolutionary 
agitators  by  wise  and  just  legislation  and  government. 

No  change  of  the  past  two  years  is  more  striking  than 
the  complete  revolution  in  the  public  attitude  towards 
Christianity.  Under  the  Manchu  regime  it  was  merely 
tolerated.  In  the  elections  for  the  Provincial  Assem- 
blies, no  Christian  priest  nor  pastor  was  allowed  to 
vote.  While  a man’s  opinions  were  never  asked,  the 
conditions  of  official  fife  and  service  were  such  that  no 
member  of  a Christian  Church  could  hold  any  kind  of 
office.  Christians  were  practically  shut  out  from  any 
share  in  the  public  fife  and  government  of  the  country. 
In  the  development  of  enlightened  opinion  which  led 
on  to  the  Revolution,  Christian  books  and  Christian 
schools  had  a large  share.  The  great  proportion  of  the 
English-speaking  young  men  of  China  have  had  at  least 
part  of  their  training  from  missionaries,  and  most  of  the 
prominent  leaders  in  the  Revolution  and  in  the  subse- 
quent developments  are  young  men  who  speak  more  or 
less  English.  In  addition  to  this,  most  of  the  Chinese 
books  on  history,  political  economy,  etc.,  so  eagerly 
studied  by  thousands,  are  written  from  the  Christian 
standpoint. 


DR.  WANG 

The  influence  of  a man  like  Dr.  Wang  can  hardly  be  overestimated.” 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 


283 


Yuan  Shih  Kai  had  no  sooner  been  made  Provisional 
President  of  the  Republic  than  he  announced  in  un- 
mistakable terms  that  the  disabilities  of  Christians  no 
longer  existed,  and  that  religious  liberty  and  equal  rights 
were  to  be  enjoyed  by  all.  In  many  places  Christians 
have  now  positions  of  importance,  and  many  men  in 
office  who  can  hardly  be  called  Christians  are  in  pro- 
nounced sympathy  with  Christian  aims.  Some  sixty 
Christian  members  were  elected  to  the  National  Assembly, 
the  Vice-President  of  the  Senate  was  a Christian,  and  for  a 
time  there  was  a Christian  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs. 
When  in  January,  1913,  the  China  Medical  Missionary 
Association  met  in  Peking,  the  President  received  the 
eighty  members  present  with  great  cordiality,  expressed 
his  gratitude  for  all  that  Medical  Missionaries  had  done, 
and  his  confidence  in  the  help  they  would  continue  to 
give  to  China. 

There  is  one  missionary  organization  which  has  gained 
enthusiastic  support  in  all  parts  of  China — the  Young 
Men’s  Christian  Association  it  is  called,  but  it  resembles 
rather  what  in  Britain  we  call  the  Student  Christian 
Union,  combined  with  a Young  Men’s  Club.  The  “ Society 
of  Youth  ” is  its  ordinary  Chinese  title,  and  in  every  city 
where  it  exists  the  young  men  gather  to  it  in  hundreds. 
Since  the  Revolution  there  is  not  a town  of  any  size 
in  Manchuria  which  does  not  want  a branch  of  this 
Society,  but,  for  lack  of  men  to  work  these,  it  has  so  far 
been  possible  to  start  but  few.  There  is  also  a demand 
in  the  larger  centres  for  similar  organizations  for  young 
women. 

In  the  spring  of  1913  large  gatherings  of  students  were 
held  in  Canton,  Peking,  and  elsewhere,  addressed  by  the 
well-known  Dr.  J.  R.  Mott.  Everywhere  the  authorities 
gave  sympathetic  help,  and  the  meetings  were  large. 
Last  of  all  Dr.  Mott  came  to  Moukden.  A fortnight 
beforehand  I called  on  the  Governor  and  on  the  Com- 
missioner of  Education,  explained  to  them  the  nature 


284 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


of  the  students’  meetings  it  was  proposed  to  hold,  and 
asked  their  advice  and  co-operation  in  getting  the  use 
of  a large  building  for  the  purpose.  They  entered 
heartily  into  the  scheme. 

“ Just  what  our  students  need,”  said  the  Commissioner  ; 
“ every  one  shall  be  present.” 

No  building  of  sufficient  size  existed  in  Moukden,  so  in 
a large  open  space  near  the  ancient  Fox  Temple  the 
Government  at  its  own  expense  put  up  an  enormous  mat- 
shed.  Here  on  a Saturday  afternoon  in  March  gathered 
five  thousand  of  the  flower  of  Moukden’s  youth — students, 
ex -students,  teachers,  and  a good  many  officials.  The 
elder  boys  of  the  Middle  Schools  were  marched  to  the  spot 
with  bands  playing  and  flags  flying,  and  the  Commissioner 
of  Education  himself  presided.  Dr.  Mott  gave  a powerful 
address,  urging  the  young  men  to  rise  to  a higher  level 
of  living  and  serving  their  country,  and  emphasizing 
that  Christianity  alone  can  purify  and  elevate  a nation. 
Then  the  Commissioner  said  a few  words,  urging  all  to 
take  heed  to  Dr.  Mott’s  advice. 

Admission  being  by  ticket  only,  there  was  a great 
crowd  of  the  disappointed  outside,  and  these  were 
addressed  from  the  steps  of  the  temple  where  the  primitive 
worship  of  the  fox  still  lingers.  Thirty  years  before 
missionaries  had  been  stoned  near  that  spot ; and  just 
where  the  shed  was  erected  some  Christians  were  beheaded 
by  the  Boxers  in  1900.  A second  Students’  Meeting  was 
held  the  following  day,  without  any  processions,  and  the 
Commissioner  again  presided.  Fifteen  hundred  were 
present,  many  of  whom  undertook  to  study  the  Gospels 
and  to  follow  sincerely  whatever  Light  should  dawn 
upon  them. 

It  was  arranged  that  Dr.  Mott  should  call  on  the 
Governor,  who  promptly  returned  the  courtesy  and 
thanked  him  warmly  for  his  visit  to  Moukden  and  his 
timely  words  to  the  students.  Then  turning  to  me  he 
said  impressively 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 


285 


“ The  teaching  of  Dr.  Mott  comes  at  a time  when  it  is 
much  needed,  to  guide  young  men  to  higher  principles.  I 
hope  it  may  have  lasting  results.” 

A month  later,  the  missionaries  in  charge  in  Moukden 
and  the  Chinese  pastors  of  the  churches  simultaneously 
received  telegrams  from  Peking,  announcing  that  the 
Government  were  requesting  the  Christians  to  have  a 
Day  of  Prayer  for  China.  The  Governor  also  received  the 
following  : 

“ Prayer  is  requested  for  the  National  Assembly  now 
in  session,  for  the  newly  established  Government,  for 
the  President  yet  to  be  elected,  for  the  Constitution  of 
the  Republic,  that  the  Chinese  Government  may  be 
recognized  by  the  Powers,  that  peace  may  reign  within 
our  country,  that  strong  and  virtuous  men  may  be 
elected  to  office,  and  that  the  Government  may  be 
established  upon  a strong  foundation.  Upon  receipt 
of  this  telegram,  you  are  requested  to  notify  all  Christian 
churches  in  your  provinces  that  27th  April  has  been  set 
aside  as  a day  of  prayer  for  the  nation.  Let  all  take 
part  ! ” 

The  churches  were  crowded  that  Sunday,  special  seats 
being  reserved  in  our  East  Church  for  the  officials.  The 
Governor  was  away  from  home,  but  sent  a representative, 
and  several  other  high  officials  were  present,  including 
the  Vice-President  of  the  Provincial  Assembly,  besides 
a considerable  number  of  others  who  had  never  before 
been  in  a Christian  church.  Each  worshipper  on  entrance 
received  a copy  of  the  order  of  service,  with  the  Lord’s 
Prayer,  which  is  always  repeated  in  unison,  printed  in 
full,  as  well  as  the  hymns  to  be  sung,  and  a special  prayer 
which  had  been  written  for  the  occasion  and  in  which 
the  whole  congregation  joined.  After  an  exceptionally 
eloquent  sermon  from  Pastor  Liu,  one  after  another  of 
the  official  visitors  said  a few  appreciative  words.  In  all 
was  noticeable  the  note  of  sincerity,  a genuine  desire 
that  the  power  of  the  Unseen  should  overshadow  this 


286 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


New  China.  The  hearts  of  those  were  full  that  day, 
who  remembered  the  day  of  small  things,  when  a few 
despised  believers  met  quietly  in  a humble  room  and 
prayed  for  the  coming  of  the  Kingdom  of  God  in  Man- 
churia. 

Along  with  openness  to  the  religion  brought  by 
foreigners,  and  eagerness  for  foreign  clothes,  houses,  and 
knowledge  of  all  kinds,  there  is  in  the  new  Republic  an 
unwillingness  for  foreign  interference  which  shows  itself 
at  every  point  of  contact — the  natural  sensitiveness  of  a 
young  State  combined  with  a residuum  of  the  old  anti- 
foreign  feeling.  In  Manchuria  the  missionaries  have 
always  sought  to  foster  the  spirit  of  independence,  so  that 
this  increased  desire  for  it  in  the  Church  has  channels 
ready  in  which  it  may  flow. 

Manchuria  is  fortunate  in  this  respect,  that  it  has  three 
strong  missions  at  work,  instead  of,  as  in  some  provinces, 
a large  number  of  comparatively  weak  ones  which  cannot 
but  produce  an  unfortunate  impression  of  rivalry  on  the 
Chinese  mind.  In  the  spring  of  this  same  year,  during 
Dr.  Mott’s  visit  to  Moukden,  a gathering  took  place  of  a 
somewhat  unique  kind.  At  his  invitation,  a three-days 
Conference  was  held  of  representative  Christian  workers 
from  all  over  Manchuria.  There  came  seventy-five 
missionaries,  being  about  half  the  total  number,  Scottish, 
Irish,  and  Danish,  and  over  a hundred  Chinese  ministers, 
elders,  evangelists,  teachers,  medical  assistants,  men 
and  women.  The  key-note  of  the  Conference  was  Union 
— Chinese  with  foreigner,  Lutheran  with  Presbyterian, 
one  great  Brotherhood  which  shall  draw  under  its  in- 
fluence the  whole  of  Manchuria.  Denominationalism  is 
at  a discount.  The  various  missions  regard  their  special 
forms  of  church  government  as  but  the  temporary 
scaffolding  used  in  building  the  Church  of  Christ  in 
Manchuria.  That  Church  is  a Chinese  one,  and  the 
Chinese  alone  will  determine  its  ultimate  form. 

In  the  development  of  God’s  Kingdom  among  men,  our 


AFTER  THE  REVOLUTION 


287 


hopes  are  high  that  China  will  play  no  insignificant  part. 
The  “ Church  of  Christ  in  China  ” cannot  long  remain  in 
tutelage  to  the  Churches  of  the  West.  Already  she  is 
breaking  her  bands  and  stretching  forward,  and  it 
remains  for  the  Christian  Churches  of  the  home  lands  to 
respond  with  sympathetic  readiness  to  this  movement. 
Only  so  can  it  be  ensured  that  West  and  East  shall  go 
forward  hand  in  hand  in  this  work  which  is  advancing  so 
rapidly,  of  leading  China  into  fine  with  the  Purposes  of 
God,  so  that  she  may  become  a world  power  for  good. 


XXX 


LOOKING  FORWARD 

“ What  is  to  come  we  know  not. 

We  may  not  share 
In  the  rich  quiet  of  the  after-glow.” 

W.  E.  Henley . 

TTTHAT  is  China’s  future  to  be  ? What  will  be  the 
T ▼ outcome  of  this  unparalleled  effort  of  three 
hundred  millions  of  people  to  recreate  the  State  with  a 
word  ? The  wisest  will  prophesy  least. 

What  is  now  happening  is  without  historical  precedent, 
and  China  is  as  unique  in  the  length  of  her  national 
existence,  and  in  the  persistence  of  her  national  character- 
istics, as  she  is  in  her  Revolution.  Dynasties  have  come 
and  gone,  torrents  of  conquest  have  poured  over  the  land, 
still  the  nation  remains.  The  original  convictions  of  the 
Chinese  mind  endure  unaltered — the  all-powerfulness  of 
Heaven  and  its  Decrees,  the  obligation  of  ancestor- 
worship,  the  sanctity  of  family  ties,  the  danger  of  offending 
spirits  of  all  kinds.  Confucius  lived  and  wrote  five 
centuries  before  Christ,  and  his  theories,  his  philosophy, 
his  standpoint  towards  life,  are  essentially  those  of  China 
to  this  day.  It  is  not  merely  that  the  Chinese  follow 
Confucius  ; it  is  that  the  Confucian  writings  embodied 
and  continue  to  embody  Chinese  thought. 

Is  it  possible,  without  irretrievable  disaster,  to  break 
in  on  the  unchangingness  of  such  a land  ? All  these  ages 
it  has  held  together,  notwithstanding  its  seemingly 
decreasing  vitality  ; but  must  it  not  inevitably  fall  to 
pieces  if  the  aggressive  restlessness  of  the  West  is  brought 
in  as  a disturbing  element,  or  if  any  attempt  is  made  to 

288 


LOOKING  FORWARD 


289 


alter  the  framework  of  the  nation  in  accordance  with 
modern  ideas — indeed,  is  not  Christianity  itself  a disinte- 
grating force  ? 

In  spite  of  her  age,  in  spite  of  her  apparently  moribund 
condition  of  a few  years  ago,  China  is  proving  herself 
strong,  is  shaking  herself  from  her  lethargy,  and  stepping 
forth  from  her  trammels  as  a new  young  nation.  It 
was  the  Dynasty  that  was  moribund,  not  the  People.  In 
contradiction  to  adverse  theorizings  and  questionings, 
these  are  showing  themselves  virile,  full  of  energetic  life. 
The  element  of  permanence  in  them  is  untouched,  and 
at  the  same  time  it  is  being  proved  conspicuously  that 
they  are  capable  of  influence  by  world- wide  movements, 
that  they  can  assimilate  in  a remarkable  way  ideas 
hitherto  strange  to  them.  Patriotism,  Freedom,  Self- 
Government,  Equal  Rights  for  All,  Progress,  Universal 
Compulsory  Education,  a State  Religion — such  novel 
expressions  are  constantly  on  men’s  bps  and  in  men’s 
minds.  It  will  take  time  for  the  new  thoughts  and 
aspirations  to  penetrate  and  permeate  the  hitherto 
inarticulate  mass  of  the  people,  but  the  process  has 
begun,  and  there  is  hope  that  those  very  forces  of  Pro- 
gress which  for  a time  did  threaten  to  shatter  the  unity 
of  China,  may  yet  weld  her  into  a stronger  nation  than 
ever  before. 

At  first  it  may  seem  that  China  is  but  imitating  other 
nations,  but  sooner  or  later  she  will  strike  out  for  herself 
on  her  own  new  Way.  The  influence  of  the  West, 
apparently  so  powerful,  works  for  the  most  part  on  the 
surface,  but  the  universal  truths  sink  in.  When  these  are 
absorbed,  the  unique  individuality  of  her  thought  and 
inner  life,  so  difficult  of  comprehension  by  Westerners, 
will  gradually  reassert  itself.  It  is  too  soon  to  know  whar 
line  the  development  of  China  will  take,  but  all  who  have 
experience  of  the  inherent  strength  of  the  Chinese 
character  are  convinced  that  she  has  no  insignificant 
future  before  her.  When  the  new  has  been  assimilated 


290 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


by  the  old,  a power  may  well  be  evolved  quite  different 
from  anything  the  world  has  yet  known. 

The  future  of  the  nation  rests  largely  with  the  youth  of 
China.  The  unenlightened,  law-abiding  peasantry,  who 
form  the  backbone  of  the  land,  have  been  stirred  to 
expect  great  things  of  the  Republic.  Hopes  have  been 
raised  in  the  hearts  of  many  millions  that  their  country 
is  now  about  to  go  forward,  that  education,  enlighten- 
ment, and  material  prosperity  are  to  spread  into  every 
hamlet.  A passionate  patriotism  has  been  generated 
which  longs  for  settled  peace,  established  Government, 
a rule  of  equity,  whereby  China  may  develop  and  prosper, 
and  fulfil  her  great  destiny.  Among  the  young  men 
who  have  urged  forward  this  Revolution  and  this  new 
Republic  are  many  of  marked  ability  and  intellectual 
power,  and  with  them  lies  the  responsibility  for  fulfilling 
or  disappointing  the  hopes  of  the  nation.  They  them- 
selves cannot  reorganize  the  Government  and  regenerate 
the  State  without  the  co-operation  of  other  and  older 
men  of  experience  and  weight.  It  is,  however,  quite 
possible  for  that  reorganization  to  be  hindered  and  that 
regeneration  thwarted  by  misdirected  opposition  to  all 
measures  and  all  men  out  of  accord  with  their  own  views. 
The  extent  to  which  China  will  reap  the  fruits  of  her 
Revolution  must  be  decided  by  the  extent  to  which 
those  to  whom  are  offered  such  great  opportunities,  are 
willing  and  able  to  sink  all  personal  considerations  of 
pride  or  party,  gain  or  glory,  and  to  unite  whole-heartedly 
to  work  for  the  general  good  of  all. 

The  complete  change  in  the  principles  of  government  in 
China  has  naturally  its  great  dangers  as  well  as  its  obvious 
benefits.  The  benefits  he  mostly  in  the  lap  of  the  Future, 
and  can  hardly  be  realized  to  any  great  extent  until  the 
whole  country  settles  down  quietly.  Now  that  the 
permanent  President  has  been  elected,  and  rebel  factions 
suppressed,  we  may  look  for  this  settling  down  to  be 
accomplished  speedily.  The  dangers  are  prominently 


LOOKING  FORWARD 


291 


present  in  our  midst,  and  are  seen  by  all  thinking  men. 
A Parliament  has  been  created  without  evolution.  The 
position  which  it  took  Western  peoples  centuries  of 
struggle  and  thought  to  attain,  is  claimed  for  China  at 
one  stroke,  and  much  is  claimed  with  it  which  will  be 
found  impossible  of  realization. 

There  is  an  unfortunate  tendency  to  discard  anything 
old  simply  because  it  is  old,  and  to  adopt  blindly  the  new, 
the  untried,  the  unknown.  The  old  system  of  etiquette  is 
laughed  at.  The  Western  freedom  between  the  sexes 
is  imitated  and  exaggerated  without  the  Christian 
foundation  which  makes  such  freedom  safe.  The  Buddhist 
and  Taoist  religions,  with  their  idol-worship,  are  openly 
mocked,  forgetting  that  it  is  better  to  worship  ignorantly 
than  to  worship  not  at  all.  Confucius  is  disclaimed  by 
many  because  of  his  attitude  to  the  monarchical  system, 
and  his  morals  are  set  aside.  The  Five  Relationships, 
so  important  in  his  theories  of  the  State  and  the  social 
system,  are  practically  reversed.  He  maintained  the 
inherent  and  permanent  obligation  of  loyalty  and 
obedience  in  these  relationships  ; but  now  that  the  first 
of  them,  the  relation  to  the  Sovereign,  is  completely  over- 
thrown, and  the  people  have  become  sovereign,  what 
need  slavishly  to  follow  the  other  four  ? Accordingly 
children  begin  to  scorn  and  defy  their  parents,  age  is  no 
longer  respected  by  Youth',  pupils  determine  what  and 
when  and  how  the  teacher  must  teach,  the  young  claim 
to  be  the  law-makers  and  scorn  the  experience  of  the  old. 

In  the  eyes  of  Chinese  of  standing  and  responsibility, 
the  most  pressing  danger  of  the  day  is  lack  of  moral 
principle  in  the  rising  youth  of  New  China.  Many  a 
staunch  old  Confucianist  would  even  be  glad  to  see  his 
sons  Christians,  as  a safeguard  against  this  new  flood  of 
unbridled  impiety  which  is  invading  the  land,  ignoring  all 
old  barriers  and  preaching  liberty  from  all  restraint.  It  is 
striking  to  hear  the  opinions  of  one  after  another  who  have 
no  manner  of  interest  in  the  spiritual  aspect  of  religion. 


292 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


“ The  lack  of  China’s  young  men  to-day,”  remarked 
General  Chang  Tso  Lin , for  instance,  “ is  Tao-te  (religion, 
moral  principle).  That  is  what  I would  like  in  my  army 
in  order  to  make  my  soldiers  strong.  I have  read  much 
about  the  great  Na-po-lun  (Napoleon).  He  was  a wonder- 
ful general,  but  he  lacked  that  one  thing.  He  had  power, 
but  no  moral  principle,  and  therefore  he  was  a menace 
to  the  whole  world.” 

It  is  morals  and  religion  in  general  that  is  desired,  and 
to  many  the  Christian  religion  is  as  welcome  as  any  other. 
In  every  province  the  openness  to  Western  teaching  is 
conspicuous,  religious  teaching  being  received  almost  as 
readily  as  scientific.  Education  is  the  key-note  of  the 
day.  Could  every  efficient  Christian  college  and  school 
be  duplicated,  they  would  still  be  insufficient  to  meet  the 
demand.  In  such  institutions  a training  is  given  which 
prepares  men  and  women  to  resist  the  evil  tendencies 
of  the  time,  and  to  do  something  more  than  five  for 
their  own  advancement  and  pleasure. 

“ What  we  want  is  not  a National  Religion,  but  a 
religious  nation,”  says  a Chinese  Professor  in  a Govern- 
ment college.  In  looking  forward  to  China’s  future, 
it  is  a religious  nation  and  a Christian  nation  that  we 
hope  for.  Christianity  is  not  proving  a disintegrating 
force,  as  some  have  feared.  In  so  far  as  it  has  prevailed, 
it  has  tended  to  reconcile  opposing  elements,  and  to 
develop  an  enlightened  and  unselfish  patriotism.  It  is 
the  fink  which  will  bind  North  and  South.  It  counteracts 
the  dangerous  tendencies  special  to  these  times.  It  affords 
an  altruistic  corrective  to  the  rank  individualism  which 
prevails.  It  is  the  only  effective  preventative  of  the 
materialism  which  threatens  to  engulf  the  thought  of  the 
day.  We  tremble  at  the  evolution  of  a powerful  China 
without  Christianity ; but  a strong  Christian  China 
means  an  irresistible  force  making  for  righteousness  and 
world- wide  peace. 


SUMMARY  OF  EVENTS 


A.D. 

1583. 

1621. 

1644. 

1838. 

1870. 

1872. 

1876. 

1883. 

1883-5. 

1885. 

1887. 

1888. 
1894-5, 
1894. 


Beginning  of  extension  of  power  of  Manchus,  under 
Nurhachu. 

Moukden  taken  by  Nurhachu  and  made  his  capital. 

Peking  taken  by  the  Manchus  and  made  their  capital. 

French  Roman  Catholic  Mission  begun  in  Moukden. 

Tientsin  massacre,  18  French  and  2 Russians 
killed. 

Systematic  Protestant  missionary  work  begun  in 
Manchuria. 

Systematic  Protestant  missionary  work  begun  in 
Moukden. 

Permanent  residence  in  Moukden  of  Protestant 
missionaries,  and  organization  of  Medical  Mission 
work. 

War  between  France  and  China. 

May.  Hospital  opened  in  Moukden. 

Mohammedan  Rebellion. 

August.  Great  floods  in  Manchuria. 
Chino-Japanese  War. 

July.  Gen.  Tso  sent  with  army  to  Korea. 

10  August.  Rev.  J.  Wylie  murdered  by  Manchu 
soldiers  in  Liaoyang. 

15  September.  Battle  of  Ping-yang  in  Korea. 
Gen.  Tso  killed. 

25  October.  Japanese  cross  Yalu  River  and  enter 
Manchuria. 

3 December.  Red  Cross  hospitals  opened  in  New- 
chwang. 


293 


294 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


1895.  6 March.  Port  of  Newchwang  taken  by  Japanese. 

,,  8 May.  Peace  signed  between  Japan  and  China. 

„ July.  Return  of  missionaries  to  Moukden. 

1896.  Ordination  in  Moukden  of  first  Chinese  pastor  in 

Manchuria. 

„ September.  Railway  concession  to  Russia,  across 
North  Manchuria. 

1897.  1 November.  Two  German  priests  murdered  in 

Shantung. 

,,  14  November.  Occupation  of  Kiao-chou  in  Shantung 

by  Germany. 

1898.  March.  Occupation  of  Port  Arthur  and  Ta -lien- wan 

by  Russia,  and  new  railway  concession  from 
Harbin  to  Port  Arthur. 

„ June.  Occupation  of  Wei-hai-wei  by  Britain.  - 

,,  1-21  September.  Reform  Edicts. 

„ 21  September.  Coup  d'etat.  Return  of  Empress- 

Dowager  to  power. 

„ 28  September.  Six  Reformers  executed. 

1899.  Boxers  organized  in  Shantung. 

1900.  25  April.  Catholics  attacked  by  2000  Boxers  near 

Pao-ting-fu,  Chihli. 

„ 26-8  May.  Railway  stations  burned  in  Chihli  and 
railways  torn  up. 

„ 1 June.  Two  English  missionaries  murdered  by 

Boxers  in  Chihli. 

,,  8 June.  Mission  premises  burned  in  Pao-ting-fu  and 

Tung-chow,  Chihli. 

,,  8 June.  Foreigners  given  r fuge  in  Peking  Lega- 

tions. 

,,  10  June.  Departure  of  Admiral  Seymour  from 

Tientsin  for  Peking  with  2000  men. 

„ 10  June.  Arrival  of  first  Boxers  in  Moukden. 

„ 13  June.  Hundreds  of  Christians  killed  in  Peking. 

,,  17  June.  Taku  forts,  at  mouth  of  Tientsin  River, 

taken  by  Allied  Fleet. 

.,  17-23  June.  Bombardment  of  Tientsin  settlement 

by  Chinese. 


SUMMARY  OF  EVENTS 


295 


A.D. 

1900.  20  June.  German  Minister  killed  by  Boxers  in 

Peking  ; attack  on  Legations  begun. 

„ 21  June.  Missionaries  privately  warned  to  leave 

Moukden. 

„ 25  June.  Last  Protestant  missionaries  leave  Mouk- 

den. 

„ 30  June.  Massacre  of  missionaries  and  Chinese  at 

Pao-ting-fu,  Chihli. 

„ 30  June.  Burning  of  mission  buildings  in  Mouk- 

den. 

„ 30  June-11  August.  Boxer  rule  in  Moukden. 

„ 9 July.  Massacre  of  missionaries  by  Yu  Hsien,  at 

Tai-yuen-fu,  Shansi. 

„ 11  August.  Gov.-Gen.  issues  Proclamation  against 

Boxers  in  Moukden. 

„ 15  August.  Allied  Troops  relieve  Peking. 

„ 1 October.  Russians  enter  Moukden. 

1904.  8 February.  Beginning  of  Russo-Japanese  War. 

„ 24  August-3  September.  Battle  of  Liaoyang. 

,,  October.  Battle  of  Sha-ho. 

1905.  January.  Fall  of  Port  Arthur. 

„ 19  February- 10  March.  Battle  of  Moukden. 

,,  May.  Naval  battle  of  Tsu-shima ; destruction  of 
Baltic  Fleet. 

„ July.  Peace  signed. 

1905-6.  Abolition  of  opium  smoking  and  poppy  cultivation 
in  Manchuria. 

1907.  5 March.  Opening  of  new  hospital  in  Moukden. 

„ April.  Centenary  Missionary  Conference  in  Shanghai. 

„ November.  Opening  of  new  church  in  East  Moukden. 

1908.  Spring.  Revival  movement  in  Manchuria. 

„ July.  Site  provided  for  Medical  College  in  Moukden. 

„ November.  Death  of  Empress-Dowager  and  Em- 

peror Kwang  Hsu. 

1909.  January.  Downfall  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai. 

„ October.  Provincial  Assemblies  opened  in  Moukden 
and  elsewhere. 


296 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


A.D. 

1910-11.  November  to  April.  Epidemic  of  Pneumonic  Plague 
in  Manchuria. 

1911.  25  January.  Death  of  Dr.  Arthur  Jackson  from 

Pneumonic  Plague  in  Moukden. 

„ April.  International  Plague  Conference  in  Moukden. 
„ 10  October.  Outbreak  of  Revolution  at  Wuchang. 

,,  9-11  November.  Threatened  revolutionary  out- 

break in  Moukden. 

„ November.  Recall  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai.  Retirement 
of  Prince  Regent. 

1912.  24-6  January.  Entrance  Examination  of  Moukden 

Medical  College. 

„ 25  January.  Summary  executions  in  Moukden  and 

suppression  of  revolutionaries. 

„ February.  Abdication  of  Emperor.  Proclamation 
of  Republic. 

„ 28  March.  Opening  of  Moukden  Medical  College. 

1913.  March.  Dr.  Mott’s  meetings  for  students  in  large 

cities  of  China. 

„ 27  April.  Day  of  Prayer  for  China. 

„ 10  October.  Installation  of  Yuan  Shih  Kai  as  Formal 

President  of  Republic. 


OF  MANCHURIA 


n 

f 


INDEX 


B 

Bannermen,  12,  13 
Bible  Society  premises,  139,  140, 
142 

Bible  women,  190,  214 
Bishop,  Mrs.  Isabella  Bird,  72, 
232,  271 

Blagovestchensk,  164 
Boxers,  121-122,  127-150,  154- 
157 

British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society, 
75 

“ Buddha’s  Walk,”  Moukden,  187 
Buddhist  sects,  110,  112 
Buddhist  temples  in  Moukden,  206 

C 

Canton,  students’  meetings  at,  283 
Chang,  Blind,  116-122 
Chang  Hsi  Lan,  Governor  (1812), 
278,  283,  284,  285 
Chang  Tso  Lin,  General,  262-269, 
279-281,  292 

Chao  Er  Sun,  Governor- General 
(1905-1907),  196-205,  225,  229, 
244;  Viceroy  (1911-1912),  258- 
270,  273,  278 

Che-kiang,  guild-house  of  pro- 
vincials, 187 

Chihli,  province  of,  127,  129,  135 
China  Centenary  Missionary  Con- 
ference, 216 

China,  Christianity  in,  208,  286- 
287,  291-292  ; revolution,  258- 
269  ; 278-287  ; day  of  prayer 
for,  285  ; future  of,  288-292  ; 


medical  theory  and  practice  in 
31-41 

China,  Emperor  of.  See  Emperor. 
China,  Empress-Dowager.  See 
Empress-Dowager. 

China  Medical  Missionary  Associa- 
tion, 223-224,  283 
China,  Prince  Regent.  See  Prince 
Regent. 

Chinese,  adaptability  for  medical 
work,  276 

— alleged  dishonesty,  56-57 

— attitude  towards  missionaries, 
4-7 

— customs  and  etiquette,  21-26, 
52-54 

— family  life,  61-62 

— fatalism,  40,  58-59,  248 

— friendliness  towards  Russians, 
165 

— gratitude,  54-55,  148 

— hospitality,  55 

— liberality,  55 

— nervous  temperament,  58,  135, 
211 

— politeness,  21,  24-26,  56 

— recuperative  powers,  36,  46 

— religion,  62-63 

— respect  for  reason,  60-61 

— revenge,  60 

— sense  of  sinfulness,  210 

— sufferings  after  the  war,  184, 
186,  189-196 

— suicide,  59-60 

— superstitions,  36-38 

— sympathy  with  Japan,  182 
Chinese  New  Year,  251 
Chinese  railways.  See  Railways 

297 


298 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Ching,  Prince,  256 
Cholera,  48 

Christian  Arts  College,  Moukden, 
200,  214 

Cliristian  Literature  Society,  259 
Christianity,  revolution  of  public 
attitude  towards,  282-287 
Christians,  persecution  of  by 
Boxers,  144-146,  155-157 
Christie,  Dugald,  c.m.g.,  start  for 
Manchuria,  1-2 ; work  com- 
menced at  Moukden,  4-11,  26- 
30  ; experiences  of  the  flood  of 
1888,  48-51  ; journey  to  Hai- 
cheng  (1884),  67-70;  first 

Sunday  in  Moukden,  74 ; 
journal  of  journey  in  1886,  76- 
78 ; hospital  work,  78-82 ; 
experiences  of  the  Chino- 
Japanese  War,  83-98  ; treating 
the  wounded  at  Newchwang, 
99-108 ; return  to  Moukden, 
107 ; stay  at  Newchwang  during 
the  Boxer  Rising  (1900),  139  ; 
return  to  Moukden,  159 ; 
journey  to  Tientsin,  167  ; ex- 
pedition to  Kaiyuen,  173 ; relief 
work  in  the  Russo-Japanese 
War,  177-195 ; intercourse 
with  H.E.  Chao  Er  Sun,  203, 
204  ; views  on  Medical  Mission 
work,  216-222  ; friendship  with 
H.E.  Hsu  Shih  Chang  and  Mr. 
Tang,  227  ; scheme  for  medical 
education  in  Manchuria,  229- 
231  ; return  on  furlough  (1909), 
231  ; fighting  the  plague  (1910- 
1911),  236,  246-257  ; experi- 
ences of  the  Revolution,  265- 
266 ; appointed  Director  of 
branch  of  Red  Cross  Society, 
267-268 ; interview  with 
General  Chang  Tso  Lin,  268  ; 
represents  Manchuria  at  Red 
Cross  Conference,  269  ; organi- 
zation of  the  Medical  College  by, 


270-277  ; friendship  with  Chang 
H8i  Lan,  278;  assistance  in 
organizing  Army  Medical  Ser- 
vice, 279-281  ; assistance  in 
organizing  students’  meetings, 
283-284 

Churches,  increase  in  number,  207 
Commercial  press,  259 
Committee  for  the  Preservation  of 
Peace,  261,  262 
Confucius,  128,  288,  291 
Coup  d'etat,  126 

D 

Dalny,  66,  115,  124,  159,  164,  256, 
265,  273 
Daly,  Dr.,  99 

Danish  Lutheran  Mission,  75,  115, 
274,  286 

Day  of  Prayer  for  China,  285 
Devil  possession,  38,  134-135 
Diseases  prevalent  in  Manchuria, 
46-51 

Dust  storm,  179-180 
E 

Education,  125-126,  162-163,200- 
201,  207,  214,  226-227,  255,  259, 
292 

— Christian,  130,  163,  200,  201, 
214,  259,  292 

— female,  130,  200,  201,  214,  227 

— medical.  See  Medical  College 
Ellerbek,  Dr.,  274 

Emperor  of  China,  Reform  Edicts, 
125-126 ; retirement,  126 ; 
flight,  232  ; death,  232 
Empress-Dowager,  coup  d'etat, 
126;  encouragement  to  Boxers, 
129,  134,  flight  of,  151  ; Red 
Cross  train  presented  by,  173  ; 
Reform  Edicts,  199;  death  of, 
232,  259-260 


INDEX 


299 


F 

Famine  in  Manchuria,  51 
Feng-huang-cheng,  96 
Fengtien,  14 

“ Firebrand,”  British  gunboat, 
101 

Flood  at  Moukden,  48-51 
Formosa,  107,  164 
French  missionaries.  See  Roman 
Catholic  Mission 
Fukushima,  General,  194 
Fulford,  Mr.  (Consul-General),  71 

G 

Gao,  Mr.,  27 

— daughter  of,  53 

— son  of,  95,  97 
German  agent,  94 

German  Minister  at  Peking, 
murder  of,  137 

Germany,  aggression  in  Shan- 
tung, 124,  127,  128 
Goforth,  Rev.  Jonathan,  209 
Governor.  See  Chang  Hsi  Lan 
Governor-General.  See  Chao  Er 
Sun , Tseng  Chi 

H 

Haicheng,  68,  96,  97 
Hamerton  : “ Intellectual  Life,” 
158 

Han,  Mr.,  236 

Hankow,  projected  railway  to,  125 
Harbin,  165,  256  ; plague  in,  234, 
235,  248,  256,  257 
Hei-lung-kiang,  missionaries  sent 
to,  208 

Hobson,  Dr.  217 
Hospital.  See  Moukden 
Hsi  Liang,  Viceroy  (1909-1911), 
214,  235,  236,  241,  242,  243,  244, 
249,  251,  252,  256 
Hsin-min-tun,  168,  177,  178,  183, 
187,  204  ; railway,  167,  227 
Hsu  Shih  Chang , Viceroy  (1907- 


1909),  225,  227,  230,  232,  233, 
244 

Hun  River,  15  ; flooded,  48-49  ; 
picnic  on,  132 ; Russian  en- 
trenchments on,  179  ; crossed 
by  Japanese,  180 
Hung,  Mr.,  80-81,  82 

I 

Ilu,  76,  77 

Imperial  edict  for  exterminating 
foreigners,  137,  138-139 

against  opium,  198 

proclaiming  a Republic,  263, 

266 

Imperial  Proclamation  of  Abdica- 
tion, 266 

Inglis,  Rev.  James  W.,  185 
Irish  Mission,  75,  115,  142,  286 
Italy,  demand  for  a sea-port,  127 
Itinerating,  76 

J 

Jackson,  Dr.  A.  F.,  237,  238-245, 
250,  271 

Jackson,  Mrs.,  243,  244 
James,  Sir  Henry,  71 
Japan,  war  with.  See  War 
Japanese,  Chinese  attitude  to, 
83,  105,  106,  109,  182,  194-195, 
247 

— friendliness,  172,  194 

— organization,  85,  166,  182-183 

— policy,  84,  109,  165,  194 

— spies,  182-183 

K 

Kaichow,  occupation  by  Japanese 
96,  97  ; battle  of,  99 
Kiayuan,  173;  Red  Cross  Hos- 
pital, 174 

— skirmish  at,  268 
Kang  Yu  Wei,  259 
Kiao-chou,  seizure  of  by 

mans,  124, 125,  128 


Ger- 


300 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Kirin,  medical  mission  work  at,  76 
Korea,  66,  72,  83,  84,  91,  107,  164, 
165,  209,  260 

Koreans,  contempt  of  Man- 
churians for,  83,  209 
Kuei-chou,  missionary  murdered 
at,  127 
Kuroki,  177 

Kuropatkin,  170,  177,  179 
Kwan-cheng-tze,  medical  mission 
work  at,  76 
— railway  to,  273 

L 

Li,  Mr.,  schoolmaster,  117,  118 
Li  Hung  Chang,  106,  123,  124 
Liang,  M.  T.,  226,  231,  233 
Liao  River,  pirates  on,  107 
Liaotung  Peninsula,  missionaries 
sent  to,  115 

Liaoyang,  76,  87,  88,  95,  149,  152, 
154;  battle  of,  167-169,  171, 
184,  mission  meetings  in,  209 
Lieutenant-General,  137,  142, 

148-149,  152,  159,  160 
Liu,  Pastor,  140,  147-148,  154, 
285  ; son  of,  211-212 
Lockhart,  Dr.,  217 

M 

MacIntyre,  Rev.  John,  19,  68 
MacPherson,  Colonel,  203 
Malaria,  51 

Manchuria,  country  and  popula- 
tion, 12-15  ; climate,  43-44  ; 
conditions  of  life  in,  44-46 ; 
diseases  prevalent  in,  46-48 ; 
floods  in,  50-51  ; famine,  51  ; 
religion  in,  62-63,  291-292 ; 
travelling  in,  64r-73  ; progress 
of  Christianity  in,  74-82,  109- 
115,  207-215  ; Russian  rule  in, 
151-163 ; condition  after  the 
Russo-Japanese  war,  193-195  ; 


reconstructions  in,  196 ; Re- 
vival in,  209  ; women  of,  212- 
214 ; medical  education  in, 
229-233  ; made  a Viceroyalty, 
225  ; pneumonic  plague  in, 
234-257  ; revolution  in,  260, 
261-262,  263,  267;  after  the 
revolution,  278-279,  281  ; 

missions  in,  286 

Manchus,  12-13,  86,  259,  260,  265, 
282,  293 

Mansion  House  Fund,  51 
Medical  Assistants,  80-82,  107, 
148,  211,  228-229,  266.  See 
also  Wei,  Dr.,  and  Wang,  Dr. 
Medical  College,  3,  72,  222-224, 
229-233,  243,  244,  245,  270- 
277,  281 

Medical  Mission  work,  74-82, 
216-224,  283 

in  Moukden,  3-11,  76-82, 

130-131,  163,  188-193,  228- 
232,  274-275 

Medicine,  practice  of,  in  China, 
31-41 

Merchant  Guild,  157 
Mission  policy  : admission  to  the 
Church,  80,  111-114 

avoiding  offence,  22-26,  29 

Chinese  responsibility,  75, 

161,  286 

desire  for  unity,  75,  286-287 

training  of  evangelists,  115, 

214-215 

Missionary  Conference,  286 
Missionary  Society  of  Manchuria, 
228 

Mongolia,  279 

Morphia,  illicit  traffic  in,  199 
Morrison,  Dr.,  221 
Mott,  Dr.  J.  R.,  244,  283,  284,  285, 
286 

Moukden,  city  and  people,  12-20  ; 
meteorological  table,  42 ; 
climate,  43-44  ; cholera  in,  48  ; 
floods  in,  48-51  ; famine  in,  51  ; 
malaria  in,  51  ; journey  ' to, 


INDEX 


301 


65-66  ; progress  of  Christianity 
in,  74-82  ; explosion  at,  131  ; 
Boxers  in,  133-150  ; condition 
after  the  Boxer  Rising,  152-163; 
panic  in,  169  ; occupied  by 
Japanese,  18L;  refugees  in, 
184-188  ; sanitary  conditions, 
188 ; reforms  in,  201-202 ; 
mission  meetings  in,  209 ; 
political  importance  recog- 
nized, 225;  improvements  in, 
226-227  ; plague  in,  235,  237- 
257  ; mutiny  in,  269  ; revolu- 
tion in,  258-269,  273  ; students’ 
meetings  at,  284 ; Missionary 
Conference  at,  286 

Moukden,  battle  of,  176-183,  190 

Moukden  Christian  Girls’  School, 
201 

Moukden  Church,  75-76,  139,  140, 
141,  153,  155,  157,  207 

Moukden,  Governor  of,  26 

Moukden  Hospital,  temporary 
building  opened,  7 ; new  build- 
ing opened,  11  ; work  at,  79-80, 
115 ; New  Hospital  opened 
(1887),  80  ; tablet  presented  to, 
88-89  ; donations  to,  108,  131, 
227  ; burning  of,  139,  140-142  ; 
rebuilding  of,  163,  203-206 ; 
extensions  of,  274-275  ; X-ray 
outfit,  281 

— Dispensary,  78-79,  115,  275 

— - Women’s  Hospital,  78-79,  95, 

115,  140,  141,  163,  180,  188 

— Medical  College.  See  Medical 
College 

Moukden  Merchants’  Guild,  205, 
206 

Muir,  Dr.  D.  D.,  273 

Murray,  Mr.,  119 

N 

Nanking,  projected  railway  to, 
125 

Nurhachu,  12 


Nurhachu,  tomb  of  son  of,  17-18 
Newchwang,  64,  66,  71,  94,  95, 
96,  97,  101,  105,  107,  139,  140, 
143,  154,  158,  159,  185,  204; 
occupation  by  Japanese,  103- 
104  ; hospital  at,  99-103 
Newspapers,  201,  241,  242,  259, 
260,  272 

Nodzu,  177,  179 
Nogi,  177,  178,  179 
North  Tomb  Woods,  179 


O 

Official  customs,  24-25,  58,  97 
Officials,  conservative,  110,  196 

— progressive,  26-27,  111,  225- 
226,  300 

— friendship  with,  3,  26-28,  88- 
89,  105,  203,  278 

— warnings  from,  96,  137 
Oku,  General,  177,  178,  194,  203 
Opium,  136,  198-199 

Oyama , Marshal,  194,  204 


P 

Pao-ting-fu,  135 
Parker,  Dr.,  217 

Pastors,  Chinese,  115,  121,  208, 
214-215,  285.  See  also  Liu, 
Pastor 

Peking,  13,  84,  91,  125,  126,  127, 
128,  130,  132,  135,  136,  137, 
149,  151,  167,  223,  227,  235, 
256,  259,  268-269,  283,  285  ; 
School  for  the  Blind,  119  ; 
Union  Medical  College,  229 
“ People’s  Army,  The,”  267,  268 
Ping-yang,  92,  93,  104,  263 
Plague,  pneumonic,  234-257 
“ Plague  Bulletin,”  251 
Plague  bureau,  236,  246,  250 
Plague  conference,  254-257 
Plague  hospital,  246 


302 


THIRTY  YEARS  IN  MOUKDEN 


Poppy  cultivation  prohibited, 
198-9 

Port  Arthur,  96,  115,  124,  125, 
164,  165,  167,  173,  194,  256; 
siege  guns,  177,  178 
Potiloff  Hill,  170,  177 
Prince  Regent,  232,  233,  235,  256, 
260 


R 

Railway  hospital,  273 

Railways,  Chinese,  125,  127,  167, 
204,  227,  231,  236-237 

— Japanese,  194,  204,  227,  237, 
238,  273,  279 

— Russian,  123,  124,  130,  143, 
159,  164,  237,  279 

Red  Cross  Conference,  269 

Red  Cross  work,  99-108,  173,  182, 
189,  191,  192,  265,  266,  267, 
268;  at  Kaiyuan,  173-174 ; at 
Shanghai,  185 

Reform,  123-127,  197,  257-260, 
282,  289-292 

Reforms  in  Manchuria,  196-203, 
258-259 

Refugees,  relief  work  among, 
184-195,  197 

“ Righteous  Harmony  Fists,” 
Secret  Society,  128 

Roman  Catholic  Mission,  18-19, 
71,  82,  112,  141,  143,  144, 
155 

Ross,  Rev.  John,  19,  77 

Russian  baron,  story  of,  189 

— friendliness,  159-60,  169,  172 

— Government,  invitation  to 
Plague  Conference  delegates, 
256 

— policy,  123,  161,  164-167 

— railways.  See  Railways 

Russians  and  Boxers,  142-143, 

149,  151-154 

— Chinese  attitude  to,  130,  165, 
169,  182,  189,  195 


S 

Saboitisch,  General,  153 
San  Yi  Miao,  Temple,  188,  203, 
206,  255 

Scenery  of  Manchuria,  1,  15-16, 
23-24,  66-68 

Scottish  United  Free  Church 
Mission,  19,  75,  115,  231,  286 
Sebastopol,  172 

Self-support  of  Chinese  Church, 
114,  121,  130,  162,  208 
Seymour,  Admiral,  130,  132,  135, 
137,  138,  139 

Sha-ho,  169-172,  177,  186,  189 
Shan-hai-kwan,  238 
Shan-si,  129 

Shanghai,  125,  132,  140,  216 ; 
Red  Cross  Society,  100,  108, 
185,  269 

Shantung,  124,  128,  129,  131, 
134 

Small  River,  11,  48,  49,  140,  141, 
154,  175,  181 

“ Society  of  Progress,”  264 
“ Society  of  Youth,”  283 
Student  Christian  Union,  283 
Students’  meetings,  283,  284 
Su,  Prince,  244 
Suicide  among  Chinese,  59-60 
Sun  Yat  Sen , 259 
Sze,  Hon.  Alfred,  256 
Szechuan,  Viceroyalty  of,  267 

V 

Vaccination,  36 
Valley  of  Peace,  116,  117,  120 
Valley  of  Victory,  120,  121 
Viceroys.  See  Hsi  Liang , Hsii 
Shih  Chang , Chao  Er  Sun 

W 

Wang,  Dr.,  236,  266,  280,  281 
War,  Russo-Japanese,  164-195 
196,  201-202 


INDEX 


303 


War  with  France,  5,  83 

Japan,  83-115,  162 

Russia,  127,  134,  149,  151- 

163 

Webster,  Rev.  James,  76,  77,  117- 
119,  185,  209rc 

Wei,  Dr.,  81,  105,  107,  140,  141, 
142,  148,  228 
Wei-hai-wei,  124,  125 
West  water,  Dr.  A.  Macdonald, 
152,  153,  268 

Winter  Palace  tragedy,  172,  173 
Women  of  Manchuria,  13-14,  23, 
24,  27,  45,  59-60,  201,  212- 
214 

Christian,  121,  130,  212-214 

Wu  Lien  Teh,  Dr.,  256,  257 


Wuchang,  standard  of  revolt 
raised  in,  260 

Wylie,  Rev.  James,  murder  of, 
87,  88,  94 

Y 

Yalu,  River,  68,  91,  92,  96,  167 
Yang-tze,  84,  263,  281 
Young,  Dr.  A.  R..  237,  240,  241 
Young,  Dr.  W.  A.,  188,  189 
Young  Men’s  Christian  Associa- 
tion, 283 

Younghusband,  Sir  Francis,  71 
Yu  Hsien,  128,  129 
Yuan  shih  kai,  134,  225,  232,  233, 
235,  260,  263,  279,  282,  283 
Yungling,  76,  78 


WILLIAM  BREN  DON  AND  SON,  LTD. 
PRINTERS,  PLYMOUTH 


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